New dumb question

[armoredman]

With the news that a friend is going to save me scrap range lead, I need something to smelt with. Now, I am going to find a cast iron dutch oven of a sort, (we're talking maybe 20 pounds or less at a time, no big setup neccesary.), but I was wondering what I should smelt it on. My barbeque grill? Will a small charcoal grill work? A small propane stove? My wife's forehead when she see me using a dutch oven for smelting?[smilie=1:

[armoredman]

PS, located "lead free" solder, that the 95% tin stuff, I believe - how much to add to pure lead for approximate WW for casting? Also located an AC and sheet metal supply house that has lead sheets and "sticks", guy couldn't quote a price, as nobody really buys the stuff, they just use it, but he'll be happy to quote me on Friday when I take a peek down there.
Nifty!

[NVcurmudgeon]

armoredman, you are becoming a world-class finder of lead! Adding lead-free solder to pure lead will never make WW alloy because the resulting alloy will lack the antimony that is the hardening element in WW. You can make pistol or black powder alloys that way though. There is no hardening benefit to adding more than 10% tin to pure lead (source Lyman.) Understand the buffalo gun shooters use alloys of 20 to 1, 30 to one, and 40 to one. The problem, is the cost of the lead-free solder, which is more affordable when your're only adding one or two percent to WW.

[Freightman]

Range scrap (at least the stuff I get) is 75% +- commercial cast anyhow I just melt and cast never had any problem leading or accuracy. Cast them as you get them works for me.

[leftiye]

What NV said. Plus if you add more than 10% tin it doesn't form a true alloy after 10%, and ya go broke buying tin after 2%- lol. 2 parts pure or near pure and one part Lino gives an alloy that heat treats purty good, and casts well because it doesnt have the impurities of WW. Add 2% tin!