Rust Problem

[rodwha]

I finally got to shoot my Deerstalker the other day. I used RS until I ran out then switched to P. I swabbed with a wet patch (both sides) followed by an alcohol patch (both sides) every 3-5 rounds and when I was done and moved on to the pistol range.

I left it over night as it was a long day thinking it would be OK. Wrong.

I scrubbed on that thing for hours with my copper/brass brush with dish soap. I also had tried Windex with vinegar as was suggested to me. Finally rubbed it all down with WD 40 and let it sit again.

Today I rinsed it with alcohol and went to scrubbing it with soap again, and there wasn't any black crud anymore. I also looked int the stuff my father gave me with my pistol and found T/C 13 bore cleaner and tried a little. I thought maybe I had cleaned it out finally. But running a patch shows what looks like a rusty brown color. I got most of it as it's very light and only shows every once in a while.

I'm not sure if it's flash rust or if the bore is rusted. How would I know without a bore light?

I noticed that my brush doesn't feel tight like it did today, and the last inch or so is smooshed. Is the "chamber" area a smaller diameter? It seems like the brush isn't getting the grooves very well looking at the patches.

It's wiped down with WD 40 again...

[Fly]

Hey we have all done that a time or two.Just clean it with a little Windex before you leave the
range, & then another patch with gun oil.I have found by doing that, if something happens
that I must leave it over night, I,m mostly OK.

Not saying to make that a habit, but it does take a lot of the salt out.

Fly

[Hanshi]

Yep, you gotta clean and oil after shooting, every time, especially after using subs. Good news is that no real damage was done in such a short time.

[fouronesix]

I noticed that my brush doesn't feel tight like it did today, and the last inch or so is smooshed. Is the "chamber" area a smaller diameter? It seems like the brush isn't getting the grooves very well looking at the patches.

It's wiped down with WD 40 again...

There are multiple threads covering cleaning MLs, the need to do so after shooting and the best methods to use. Won't rehash that again.

The smooshed brush is probably an indication that your gun has a patent breech. Meaning the threaded breech plug extends into the barrel a ways and has a smaller-than-bore diameter "chamber" as you described.

[rodwha]

And it was due to many threads stating that they've left their guns dirty after a CAS match for a couple of weeks that made me think that in the low humidity now it would be OK 'til the morning. I didn't get home 'til late and had both guns to clean. And my pistol takes me about an hour...

This had made me wonder what I'll do in the future as far as hunting. Though I won't be using Pyrodex (Triple 7) for hunting, maybe I won't shoot the evening of my planned travel home as cleaning up the deer and the travel will take some time leaving me with staying up quite late or setting it aside 'til the morning again.

I certainly hope that I have not rusted my barrel, however mildly. I wish I knew if, when I was dry patching the barrel, it was flash rust from the rinse or that there is actual rust in there.

[Fly]

Bud, Windex is great stuff to take with you to the range.I read that on some form way back
& I never leave home with out it.

Fly

[fouronesix]

And it was due to many threads stating that they've left their guns dirty after a CAS match for a couple of weeks that made me think that in the low humidity now it would be OK 'til the morning.

Just goes to show there is a LOT on the anonymous internet that may be suspect! The rub is how to tell the difference between horse pucky and real deal good advice.

[451 Pete]

I have posted this at least once before on the Muzzle Loading Forum but a inexpensive small L.E.D. light that will work for a drop in bore light for all caliber rifles can be had by purchasing a replacement light for a lighted fishing bobber at the local tackle shop or Wall Mart.

Pete

[Fly]

Pete you got that right.I bought one at a super market check out.I used that dam thing for more
than a bore scope.But for a gun owner everyone need,s one.I finally found them again at, I think
Auto Zone.But alot of auto parts store have them.

Pete thanks for bringing that up.I thought I was the only guy that(wink) had one.That is funny.
Muzzle loaders guy's would see one & the light comes on.I guest we have one thing on our mine
most of the time,ha,ha.I ask my wife today, I don't know what compells me toword back powder.

But I just love it & love hearing the knowege on this site.I can't wait to meet Pete & Bob at freindship
this year.I said last year I would come & didn't.I will be there this year.Pete I need help with the Gibb's.

I know you & Bob can help.

Fly

[Boerrancher]

I always tell my boys the order in which things get taken care of when returning from a hunt:

1. Taking care of the game to where it won't go bad is first. Even with a large whitetail it should take no longer than an hour.

2. Hunting dogs if used are number two. They work hard for you so they get the second slot.

3. Next is the gun. If you are effecient the longest it should set is a couple hours after you have returned. Make sure you clean it well as your life depends on that gun.

4. Last is yourself. Once the other three are well cared for you can eat, rest, or sleep. If you don't have time to do it in that order then you don't have time to be hunting or shooting.

Maybe my method seems a bit harsh but it is how I was raised and it taught me how to plan ahead and organize. If one is going to play with the holy black, making time to clean is part of it. Like I tell my kids when they start to complain that they don't have time because they have other things they want to do, I tell them, "you knew what had to be done upon returning, when you left, so you should have made an allotment for it. Improper planning on your part does not negate your responsibility nor allow you to pawn it off on someone else." (Me)

Also if you can stay away from the subs. Contrary to what the marketers tell you, substitutes are more corrosive. I have seen many good guns ruined because their owner listened to the salesman that told him pyrodex or 777 was not nearly as corrosive and cleaning could wait a day or so. I would not be worried about a slight tint to the patch as long as it is not coming back shreaded you should be fine. Clean it ina day or two again to make sure it is not rusting more, which it most likely isn't.

Best wishes,

Joe

[rodwha]

Not harsh at all. It is what it is.

I don't seem to be fast when it comes to gutting/skinning/quartering an animal, and it seems to take me an hour to clean and reassemble my pistol. Figure the ride home can take a few hours, and it was 8 or 9 PM when I left...

Since cleaning can't wait it seems to me that, if I'm alone I ought to head home in the afternoon/early evening. And if I'm out 'til late with a friend I should clean my gun there.

I'd guess clean up after hunting wouldn't be nearly as bad as it would be a shot or two and not 50. Plus it's unlikely I'd have to clean my pistol as well. And again only a few shots and not another 50. I'd guess with little fouling clean up would take half the time.

[Rattus58]

I always tell my boys the order in which things get taken care of when returning from a hunt:

1. Taking care of the game to where it won't go bad is first. Even with a large whitetail it should take no longer than an hour.

2. Hunting dogs if used are number two. They work hard for you so they get the second slot.

3. Next is the gun. If you are effecient the longest it should set is a couple hours after you have returned. Make sure you clean it well as your life depends on that gun.

4. Last is yourself. Once the other three are well cared for you can eat, rest, or sleep. If you don't have time to do it in that order then you don't have time to be hunting or shooting.

Maybe my method seems a bit harsh but it is how I was raised and it taught me how to plan ahead and organize. If one is going to play with the holy black, making time to clean is part of it. Like I tell my kids when they start to complain that they don't have time because they have other things they want to do, I tell them, "you knew what had to be done upon returning, when you left, so you should have made an allotment for it. Improper planning on your part does not negate your responsibility nor allow you to pawn it off on someone else." (Me)

Also if you can stay away from the subs. Contrary to what the marketers tell you, substitutes are more corrosive. I have seen many good guns ruined because their owner listened to the salesman that told him pyrodex or 777 was not nearly as corrosive and cleaning could wait a day or so. I would not be worried about a slight tint to the patch as long as it is not coming back shreaded you should be fine. Clean it ina day or two again to make sure it is not rusting more, which it most likely isn't.

Best wishes,

Joe

My newest remedy has been Marvel oil soak, alcohol wipe down and lucas gun oil to preserve the gun inside and out... workin good... lookin good... :-)

[fouronesix]

I don't know how recommendations for cleaning and maintenance get mixed up between BPCR and muzzleloaders. And, there is a HUGE difference between swabbing/cleaning between shots or at-the-range maintenance during a day's shooting and the cleaning that must be done at the end of the day.

The easiest, quickest bar none! muzzleloader to clean thoroughly is the hook breech cap lock, single wedge, short barreled gun- about a 30 minute job max. Use a rod w/jag, 3 cloth patches, 3 paper towel patches, a little hot water and small plastic bucket, some dish soap and some oil.

[**oneshot**]

I tear mine down and clean ASAP. This goes for my centerfires also. But I'm sick about keeping my guns clean.

[Fly]

My My & just because I said to range clean it if you can't till the next day.God I really do love all.

Fly (Smile)

[fouronesix]

And it was due to many threads stating that they've left their guns dirty after a CAS match for a couple of weeks that made me think that in the low humidity now it would be OK 'til the morning.

Fly, this is the reason for my response. I mentioned multiple threads on cleaning muzzleloaders on this the CB forum in this the ML section. It had to do with mixed signals about cleaning that one hears from various outside sources. I haven't seen a bunch of threads on the CB forum in the ML section stating, "that they've left their guns dirty after a CAS match for a couple of weeks."

Chances are pretty good that leaving one uncleaned for a day or two won't do much harm. But leaving a ML uncleaned after a day's shooting is inviting trouble. I'd hate to guess the number of MLs that have been ruined because of the ROUND TUIT.... followed by, "I forgot" or "got busy". Maybe half the ones I look down the bore of from the last 30-40 years have pitted bores. These are the 'new' repro T/Cs and the like since the muzzleloader boom began in the 70s.

[Col4570]

I do,nt know if you can get this in the USA. Mr Muscle Kitchen Cleaner.On a cleaning patch it cuts through the crud quickly,followed by a couple of dry ones then an oily one.Usualy 0000 steel Wool will take out your rust.

[Col4570]

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s452/livebattery/001-27.jpg

[Sergeant Earthworm]

A lot of good stuff has already been written, just adding a bit from my experience.

One of the things I plan for when going out to shoot is the time necessary to clean the guns afterward. An hour is usually sufficient for one or two guns.

Some guys use WD40 and other petroleum based lubricants on their BP guns, but I had such a bad experience doing that that I stopped using anything petroleum based for cleaning or lubing with the exception of anti-seize compound on screw threads including the nipple. Other than that, all I use is hot water, Thompson's Bore Butter, and elbow grease.

Remove the nipple and clean separately. Scrub powder residue off the outside of the barrel and lock with a bronze brush and hot water. Submerge the breach into the hottest water you can get and use a tight fitting cotton patch to pump the bore repeatedly for about 5 minutes, change the water and patch and repeat. Dry the bore with a couple of patches and blow any remaining water out with compressed air if you have it. Also use compressed air to dry the outside of the barrel especially the sights, rib, and breach area. While the barrel is still hot, soak a patch with Bore Butter and swab the barrel repeatedly. Coat the outside of the barrel as well. After a day or two run a dry patch down the barrel a few times, then run a patch soaked in Bore Butter again.

Since I started this regimen, I haven't had any trouble with rust. Not only that, but I can clean a BP gun in less time than it takes to clean a smokeless gun.

One other thing I did is to tape the hollow shaft of a graphite arrow to the nozzle of the air gun. With that inserted into the muzzle the compressed air gets down into the breach and helps to get the water out. Instead of ruining a good (and expensive) arrow, I just used a shaft I found at the local archery range that someone left because it was slightly cracked on one end.

[shane438]

Yall are going to think I'm crazy but molasses diluted 1 part molasses 9 parts water is the best rust cutter I've ever run across.