Made A spinning target for cast 357!

[geoff rodger]

Hi all
Finally got around to make up a steel spinning target for my 357 marlin 1894
Really happy with the results. Plates are 4 inch and 1 inch dia for the smaller set. plus 1/4 inch thick . Should have no trouble standing up to my 158gr 665158 under 4gr of titegroup for 1100 fps
Off hand shooting done at 30m offhand.
Love to hear any comments. Thanks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQ5jCYQXrjM

[44man]

OH yeah, I like it. Good job.
One thing to think about is re-rod does not like to be heated and might crack near the weld.

[geoff rodger]

OH yeah, I like it. Good job.
One thing to think about is re-rod does not like to be heated and might crack near the weld.

Also I wondered what would be A safe distance to shoot at with this spinner? Say with my cast 1100fps load plus a 22lr load. thanks

[chevyiron420]

Great job! and that is some beautiful land.

[Artful]

RULES FOR SHOOTING ON STEEL TARGETS:

* Always wear wrap-around eye protection and proper hearing protection.

* Always wear a hat with a brim large enough to protect the front of the head and face.

* Long pants and long sleeves are recommended.

* Always use high quality steel targets specifically designed for heavy duty use.

* Never use steel targets for purposes outside their scope of design.

* Never use ammunition that exceeds the target’s scope of design.

* Minimum recommended distance with a handgun and standard lead ammunition is 7-10 yards. (angled targets)
* FMJ you must pull back to 25 yards at least.

* Minimum recommended distance with a rifle is 100 yards unless using specific rifle targets. (angled targets)
* Frangible ammo is required if moving in closer.

* Minimum recommended distance with shotgun slugs is 100 yards. (angled targets)

* Maximum ammunition velocity is 1,500 fps for handgun targets and 3,000 fps for rifle targets.

* Never use armor-piercing, steel-core, or other hardened ammunition.

* Never use steel shot, pellets, BB’s, or other air gun projectiles.

* Spectators must also wear proper eye and ear protection and must remain at least 10 yards from the target.

* Never shoot on steel targets that have been damaged or deformed in any way.

http://www.nationalpolicesupply.com/pdf/Steel_Targets_Safety_and_Use.pdf

http://www.gongshot.com/pages/Safety-when-shooting-steel-targets.html

http://www.shootingwire.com/features/223444

From an FBI Training Bulletin:


There are many steel targets on the market allowing for a wide range of firearms training techniques. However, many of these targets do not provide adequate protection from bullet splatter so accidents can occur. It is important that the user know what factors make training on steel targets as safe and effective as possible. When shooting steel targets, a “splatter zone” appears. This zone is the area in which the great majority of bullet fragments eventually wind up. The total amount of splatter in this zone is primarily dependent on the following four key issues: 1) Angle of deflection, 2) Target hardness, 3) Bullet design and 4) Target placement.

ANGLE OF DEFLECTION
The type and design of a steel target determines the angle of deflection. As the bullet shatters on impact, the majority of the fragments spread out at 20-degree angles from the plate surface. This area, which forms thin triangular shapes to the left and right of the target, is referred to as the “splatter zone.” It is not a safe place to be as a full 95% of all bullet fragments can end up here. The remaining area, including the shooter, is referred to as the “safety zone,” and receives only a small portion of bullet fragments. Although the safety zone is not absolutely safe, with proper protection, normal training can be carried on without undue risk.

TARGET HARDNESS
The hardness, or tensile strength, of a target measures the amount of force that can be applied to the steel before deformation or damage occurs. Hardness is most commonly measured by a Brinell number ranging from 150 on the soft side, up to 700 on the hard extreme. While the average target is made of the cheaper steel with a Brinell number
of 265, some targets have a Brinell number over 500 and can withstand repeated .308 rounds without deformation or damage. Intuitively, it is apparent that a harder steel target will last longer. More importantly, a harder steel target is actually safer. In repeated testing, hard targets produced very consistent splatter patterns and returned little or no
bullet material back to the shooter. Softer targets deformed sooner and often resulted in extremely unpredictable splatter patterns. Specifically, many fragments were larger and traveled in virtually every direction, effectively rendering the safety zone non-existent. It is recommended, therefore, that steel targets be made of the harder steel. Initially they will be more expensive, but, based on longevity and safety, they will be more cost effective in the end.

BULLET DESIGN
A high quality, higher power factored ammunition is essential to reduce splatter. Simply stated, to minimize the size and pattern of splatter, drive the projectile harder. Consequently, a lead bullet with a low velocity is the worst option for steel target training. For safe training, it is recommended that only higher power factored bullets be used. A desirable round to produce consistent splatter is a jacketed hollow-point with a velocity of 1225 fps. Another issue is the “correlation factor.” This generally refers to how well a bullet holds together to give controlled expansion and penetration. In the case of steel target training, the best bullet is a frangible style round. The high velocity, frangible design of such bullets creates a predictable shattering effect on impact.

TARGET PLACEMENT
Even with the best targets and bullets, training can be dangerous if targets are placed incorrectly. Metal targets should not be placed parallel to each other with out a barrier between them. Splatter from one target could ricochet off another target (secondary splatter), and return to the shooter. Metal targets that are used in a grouping pattern
should be staggered so as not to be in the 20 degree angle of deflection splatter zone of another target. Placing plywood to the sides of each target easily solves both of these problems. Because the wood is soft, it will absorb the splatter and not cause dangerous secondary splatter. The wood will, however, need to be replaced frequently to be
an effective barrier. Another cause of secondary splatter can be large rocks or concrete. The best surfaces are made of sand or fine gravel. If concrete is used, it should be covered by wood or pea gravel.

OTHER SAFETY ISSUES
Since splatter can only be minimized and never totally eliminated, proper eye protection must be mandatory on all firing ranges. Eye protection should be OSHA tested and have side protection built in. Long sleeves and hats are optional but recommended. Instructors and observers should stand behind the shooter and obey all safety precautions as well. In short, training on steel targets can be safe if done properly. Buy your targets from a reputable manufacturer, use high quality ammunition, place targets correctly, and take proper safety precautions.

Safety is important

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPZyBLv0ijc

I have several different steel targets that I use.

http://imageshack.us/a/img503/8746/reloderstuff005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/rowdyfisk/Misc/P1050259.jpg

but they all follow some basic rules -

They move when hit

They are angled when at rest

They are designed for specific calibers and you don't use other calibers than they were designed for on them
Notice the damage in the top target - that was from rifle fire at too close a range - which brings up a rule -
Don't loan your targets to someone without being there to supervise the use of your targets.

You never shoot alone with steel targets - just in case.

you want A500 for rifle shooting A400 will take most handgun rounds without issue.

From the Department of The Army Technical Manual TM 9-1305-200, p.44.

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx166/Sailormilan2/scan0001-1.jpg

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/xx166/Sailormilan2/scan0002-1.jpg

[LUCKYDAWG13]

ya you need to use good steel i did this with my 44mag 270gr castboolit at 75 yrds60736

[44man]

It is amazing how much steel a revolver boolit will penetrate or dent deep. My 100 yard plates are at least 1/2" and some are 1". They have deep punch marks that are dangerous if shot closer. Steel must stay smooth, angled or allowed to swing. But if it is pocked, even angled or spinning is dangerous.
Long ago a friend had the scope off his 270 Weatherby and when he put it back he was off target at 100. He put a target against a RR bank at 50 yards. At the shot he dropped. There was something under the dirt bank. He had a huge hole in his thigh all the way to the bone, just missed the artery. I rushed him to the hospital to explain to the sheriff what happened. He waited to see what hit my friend. It was a piece of jacket material that weight 12 gr.
They had to sew him up from the inside out.
All good targets are made of expensive armor plate that resists denting. Those dents are what can kill you.
Shoot steel far or use armor plate. Thickness does not matter if it dents.

[1Shirt]

Son in law bought a set of the sillywets for 22s a number of years ago. I shot one with a hornet with a LITE cast load that penatrated the rabbit like it was shot with armor piercing. He was not a happy camper!
1Shirt!