Trouble with cutting sprue on Lee 6 banger

[GrizzLeeBear]

I got my 1st Lee 6 cavity mold, a 358-1580RF and tried casting with it for the first time last night. Cleaned it with mineral spirits, dried it, and smoked the cavities like it says in the instructions. Set the mold on the top of the pot for a while to heat it up. Using WW + a little tin. 1st drop 3 or 4 of the bullets weren't filled out as expected, but suprisingly a couple looked good. next 3 drops most bullets looked good, but it was getting more difficult to cut the sprue. By the 4th drop I could not cut the sprue. The "tab" (for the handle that is bolt on the sprue plate) broke off I was prying on it so hard, so I set it aside. The mold now sits with the sprue cut about halfway.
I then cast up some waddcutters with my Lee 2 cavity TL WC mold. This one, of course, I cut the sprue with a couple raps with an old wood hammer handle. Bullets come out good. Everything worked fine.
So whats the trick with cutting the sprue with the Lee 6 cavity?

After using a couple of RCBS and Lyman molds, these aluminum molds sure are fussy. I have found that I definitely prefer the steel molds. The Lyman 358665 looks almost identical to the Lee (with little or no bevel base) and they make it in a 4 cavity. Might be a good replacement for the Lee. Anyone have one of these?

[R.M.]

So far, the only time I've had any trouble cutting the sprue has been when I've let the lead cool too much. I find it helps to cut the sprue just after the puddle solidifies. I go by the color. I find it changes color twice, once just as it solidifies, and another a couple of seconds later.

Hope this helps
R.M.

[44woody]

one problem I had with lee 6 cavity moulds was if it was not closed all the way it would not cut the spew off it has to be closed all the way there is a easy fix if you don't get it closed all the way put a flat head screwdriver between the mould and the spew cutter pivot point and then take the spew off I have cut the spew off a month after I casted it I think that is where you are having your problems at :castmine: 44Woody

[GrizzLeeBear]

...put a flat head screwdriver between the mould and the spew cutter pivot point and then take the spew off...

Not sure I follow you? How you putting a screwdriver between the mold and the sprue cutter pivot point?

[jonk]

I had that happen twice on two molds. Damned pot metal lever is the problem. Now I preheat the mold ten times as long as I had been, and start by casting one cavity, than 2 etc. until all 6 are going. Haven't had the problem since, but its a pain. I find I have to cast 100+ bullets until the damned thing gets up to temperature!

[Mallard57]

I usually do the fill 1,2,3, etc. cavities and I'm not in a big hurry to get into full production, heat is your friend. If you get your mold full and it's not hot enouph, you're better off to reheat the mold with a torch or on the pot itself till the lead softens. Lee molds don't like it when you force the sprue open. If you do it right you can open the sprue with a gloved hand.
Jeff

[Leftoverdj]

I have a dozen or so Lee six holers and no trrouble. All it takes is thoroughly preheating mould and making sure that the sprue plate lever is all the way over. If the lever is even a little open, you loose the cam action. If the mould is too cool, the alloy gets too hard, too fast.

My preheating method is just to dunk the mould into the alloy. When the mould will pull free without solidified lead clinging to it, it's ready. First couple of casts take a little extra time to solidify, but I get good bullets from the start.

[AZ-Stew]

I posted this a couple of days ago in answer to a similar question...

I had the same thing happen after an hour or so with one of the GB moulds. The problem was that I didn't make sure that the sprue plate was completely closed befor casting. I had also let the cast cool for a while before I got around to opening the mould. When I pulled on the sprue plate handle and met resistance, I pulled a bit harder, thinking it was just the harder, cooled alloy causing the resistance. Turns out it was the fact that the sprue plate wasn't completely closed and the cam was already at the extent of its travel. Snapped the handle right off.

After that little experience, I made sure that the stud that the sprue plate seats under when completely closed is adequately lubricated and that the sprue plate is completely closed before each pour. No problems since.

Regards,

Stew

[44woody]

AZ that is just what I was talking about if you do find your self in with that problem just put a flat head screwdriver under the pivot point and you will not break the handle off :castmine: 44Woody

[mtgrs737]

Could it be that the spue plate was not lubricated very well and maybe the hinge plate was set a bit too tight so that when the aluminum mold blocks heated up and expanded they decreased the clearance between the bottom of the spue plate and the top of the mold?

[GrizzLeeBear]

Thanks for the replies guys. I wish I had known about some of these things before hand, especially the trick with filling one cavity, then two, etc. to get the mold up to temp. Once I got the lead out of it, the sprue cutter does move with a lot of resistance even with the mold empty, I think it is too tight. Looking at the mold again I noticed that with the sprue plate closed I can see light between the middle of the plate and the mold, it has a slight bend to it. Is this normal for these? Do I need to get a new plate, lever AND handle?
That Lyman 358665 is looking better.