Dropping or Weigh Each Charge?

[Lizard333]

After reading an article in Handloader, this got me wondering what the mass does when it comes to accurate handloading. I personally weigh each charge when it comes to the accuracy I am looking for in my target loads, but the author brought up the point that match shooters don't bother. They dump each load. This came as a surprise to me. I use a Dillon powder dispenser with my 550 and find that it is accurate enough for all my pistol loads and even bulk rifle, like ball 223 and 308. The article says that a +/- a tenth of grain doesn't amount to anything.

So what do you guys do? What powder dispensers do you guys "dump" with?

[mdi]

I know bench rest shooters don't, and I've read the arguements about volume vs weight, and 3% or 4% variation doesn't make any difference in accuracy, but when reloading my rifle rounds, I weigh them all. Now, I'm a handgun shooter and am still working up loads for my .223 and 30-30 single shots and my 7.62x54R Nagant. I prefer to know what's inside the case when I shoot 'em and don't know of any rule (written or unwritten) that even hints at how many charges need to be weighed. When loading for my handguns, depending on the powder and how it flows through my C-H 502, I may weigh the first 10 and one out of 5 or 10 if my measure settles down, or if it is still varing a bit, I'll weigh all charges. I still on occation use a dipper when playing "retro" and using a Lee Loader and for my "play ammo" that's goood enough (but then when I get rollin', I can hold -.01 gr dipping some powders). Again, like most things in reloading it's personal choice and what works best for you...

[44man]

It always depends on powder grains. I dump all ball powders but I weigh stick powders. I dump into the pan and add what is needed.

[DHurtig]

With stick powders I weigh every charge. With ball powders I weigh every 10th one just to make sure nothing has changed. Dale

[opos]

I'm a fairly low volume loader and being older and retired I've got plenty of time so I weigh each load using a Lee dipper to get close and then a trickler to get it accurate...I've used powder measures in the past and always kept close tabs by weighing every 8-10 loads or so...but again, no hurry at all and it gives me just one more check on things to weigh each load...sort of belt and suspenders cautious. I also load a lot of Trail Boss and hear pros and cons on using a measure with Trail Boss so not an issue with me at all.

[mdi]

oops!:roll:

[sargenv]

For me it depends on the powder.. Alliant Steel is "fluffy" and doesn't meter well through my press. I was getting a several grain variation (not tenths but whole grains) when throwing via the charge bar on the press. For ball powder, I just use the volume bar and not worry about a single tenth variation. Stick powders it depends, but most of the time I get variations into the 2 tenths range, the rifle doesn't seem to notice the difference and almost all of my shooting is under 200 yards.. so I can't really tell.

If I were going to load for use beyond 200 yards, I'd probably weigh them each out. One less variable to worry about.

[Shuz]

I dump all ball powders,all flake powders and all stick powders that have short lengths like H-322. Long stick powders like 4064, 4831 and 4759 get individually weighed. I still weigh check thrown charges on the 10th and the last round thrown. So far, this has worked for me with Dillon powder measures such as the Square Deal B, the old 450 Dillon and my Redding powder measure.

[Harter66]

The volume loads like 9mm generally get dropped 38s also. 357 and Colts get dropped and weighed for hunting loads but just dropped for proficiency. All of my rifle loads get weighed every time.

That said I know of a certain couple of 30cal rifles w/fast twists an 06' and a x39. While only a few loads were worked for the x39 it showed the same trends as the 06' . W/a 3033 Horndy spbt 3/10 of a grain of 4350 made the difference between 5 under a nickel,several groups covered w/a dime w/just a fuzzy curve seen outside ,and 1.25 center to center. W/ a half grain over the little group it was up to 4" over a foot at a full grain. Both rifles show similar trends w/cast and P-P show more or less the same thing. In that particular 06' matching brass is also a must 1 case over a half grain heavy or light and there goes the group.

[Mavrick]

When I'm loading my .40 for competition, I drop (I use Green Dot)
ALL test loads, rifle and pistol, are weighed.
When I load my 7.62x57 Imp for competition up to 500meters, I drop, as I use H4831ssc, because it's so easy to keep consistant.
Have fun,
Gene

[RCE1]

I use the RCBS Chargemaster for almost everything, so that's weighed.

[danielk]

For me it depends on what the ammo is for. My 300 winmag I weigh and trickle every charge, this is my hunting and long range stuff. I like knowing I did everything possible for consistency. My 223 ammo once I get the powder measure set I just dump and go, checking on occasion. All my handgun is loaded on a dillon 650 so it gets dumped. I guess for me it also boils down to volume. Weighing and trickling 200 rounds isn't a big deal, 15,000 handgun rounds would be mind numbing. Shooting USPSA 3 times a month will burn through some ammo.

When I'm working up loads, doesn't matter what for, I weigh and trickle everything.

[Kraschenbirn]

When I'm working up a loads for a new rifle/caliber/boolit, I trickle and weigh both powder and boolit for every round. Once I've got something that satisfies me, my old Belding & Mull (with vibration) will throw +/- .1 gr. consistently with any powder I use...and that includes IMR4350...but I still weigh every fifth charge to be on the safe side.

All my handgun rounds are loaded on Dillon progressives and I use the factory powder measures...with my own charge bars and baffles installed in the powder reservoirs...on both machines.

Bill

[gwpercle]

Drop charges with a Lyman 55 measure and weigh every tenth drop to make sure everything is okay.

[merlin101]

It always depends on powder grains. I dump all ball powders but I weigh stick powders. I dump into the pan and add what is needed.

Yep thats what I do too. I'll double check the charge soon after starting then less often, depending how close to max I am. Tin cans and deer never seem to notice any difference!

[MT Gianni]

Lyman DPMS so weighed charges most of the time. When I dip a few for test loads they are thrown onto the elec. scale. On the rare occasions I use the auto-disc I weigh every tenth charge. It is only used with easily metering powders.

[Rocky Raab]

I use a Hornady digital dispenser for most reloading, so every charge is weighed. But for almost all shooting, that's overkill.

It's pointless to set a fixed standard like ±0.1 grain for all reloads because the allowable variation depends on the total charge weight. A tenth or two makes a lot of difference in a maximum Hornet load, but a full grain variation in some maxiultra Mangleum round won't matter a bit. I have long suggested that a 1% variation (of the total charge) works out to about the right degree of persnicketiness. In a 10-grain charge, that means a tenth of a grain either side of the 10-grain target is okay. A 100-grain charge means a full grain either side is fine.

For more than five decades now, I've read that "weight every tenth charge" advice - and considered it laughable since the very first time. All that routine gets you is the knowledge that one in 10 charges is as expected. You're either needlessly anal about charge weights or not. If you are, you'll weigh every single charge, right down to the last kernel of powder (and if you're REALLY anal, you'll trim that last kernel to get it exactly right!) If you're not wrapped as tight as that, you set your dispenser with a scale and then just dump charges until you're done.

Either way works, and either way is fine by me, please note. One is just needlessly picky.

[zuke]

I drop the powder then load'em up.

[**oneshot**]

I drop everything. I also try to avoid loads with powders that won't meter well enough.

[sundog]

I drop my charges. Case prep is more important.

http://www.angelfire.com/ma3/max357/houston.html


BUT!!! If your confidence level is enhanced with weighing charges, then by all means, do it.

[357maximum]

I am lazy but I like the utmost in accuracy. Therefore I choose powders that like to be dumped when I can make that choice accurately. I simply dump 85%+ of my charges and with good baffles installed in the hopper and consistent operator input it normally getsRdid. On the rare occassions where I cannot dump...I begrudgingly weigh every charge.

[Old Caster]

Benchresters do drop only but they use a good powder measure like a Harrel and they even pay attention to the way they flick the handle, however if you haven't done all the rest of the prep and shoot the bullets in a quality gun with the proper rest, it is like a fat guy trimming his toenails before he runs the 100 mile race.-- Bill --

[youngda9]

Don't want to spend the time to weigh all of the charges...plus it shouldn't matter +/- a couple tenths from what I've read. I do make sure it is dropping consistant charges, lock it down, and crank em out.

[Mal Paso]

I drop but consistent clicks of the handle are important so the powder settles the same way each time.

I have had part of a keg of powder get heavy. In the middle of 600 rounds, what was a very consistent 18g is suddenly 19g with no change to the adjustment. If I keep throwing charges it will work it's way back to 18g. If inconsistent distribution of solvent or graphite changes the weight volume measuring might be better. If the nitrocellulose is denser or has more nitroglycerin measuring by weight would make sense.

Thoughts?

[Mark85304]

It depends on what and why I'm reloading. If I'm just reloading for target practice or plinking, I'll drop. If I am reloading for competition, I will weigh each powder charge, twice. Call me nuts, but it works for me. Reloading is therapeutic (relaxing) for me so it I have the benefit of time.

[tomf52]

Good, consistent esults with dippers for ppistol loads. Make my own from 9mm cases and coat hanger wire. Very consistent results.

[captaint]

I dump them all. That's why I rarely, if ever, use Unique. Just can't get consistent light charges, either with the Culver or the Uniflow. The Culver won't do consistent light charges of Red Dot - the Uniflow will. Nearly all of my loading lately is pistol ammo, so that's what works for me. Mike

[flounderman]

lyman 55 measures. use a loading block and you can visually check the level of powder in each case. If one doesn't look like the rest, dump it and throw another charge in it. If it looks like the one you dumped, the case has less capacity. I try to maintain a level of powder in the measure unless the last of it is in the hopper, then I will load to the bottom. Put 40 0r 50 cases in the block, develope a rhythm with the measure handle. bring it up with the same motion every time, allow a second for the powder to fill the drum, throw the charge, rap the bottom a couple of times, if you are throwing large charges, give it a second to drain and raise the handle for the next. when the cases are charged, visually inspect for uniformity. as far as I am concerned, it is a waste of time weighing every charge if you have a good measure and are not dipping them with a scoop. the big item is use a block and inspect the cases for uniformity after you drop the powder in them.

[Cherokee]

Powder measure for all powders. Lachmiller, RCBS, Lyman. If a stick powder (which I avoid except 4895) I will weigh if going for accuracy.

[jmort]

I use dippers so I only weigh a couple charges when I buy powder. Could be a year or so if I get 8 lbs of Unique before I touch a scale. I hate using scales.

[jethunter]

I mostly use measures for both pistol and rifle. I only use a scale to confirm the powder measure is set correctly.

[1Shirt]

Am usually satisfied with drop charges for rifle when the charge is over half of the case full to prevent double charges. This is particularly true with ball powders. For cast w/less than half case charges of whatever powder for rifle, I weigh the finished ctgs for consistancy, and pull the blts when there is any appreciable weight differences. With rifle loads with faster burning powders, it is easy to make a mistake, and making a mistake of double charging can be disasterous. I weigh about every 5th. load. For handgun, I drop most after making sure the measure is dropping consistantly. This can be a problem with some of the flake powders in some measurers as the tend to sometimes bind the measure. I drop handgun, check visually, and put the blt in place, when I have 50 in this manner I seat/crimp as applicable. Regardless of how you charge a case, there is no such thing as being to safe.
1Shirt!

[Cadillo]

Bullet quality and case prep are far more important. I do weigh charges on my ultimate accuracy loads, but only after the cases have had the pockets and flash holes trued, necks trimmed, and cases sorted by weight. If you're not prepping cases to that level and using a quality bullet, you're wasting time weighing.

[Bonz]

I weigh every charge with a RCBS 1010

[John Boy]

So what do you guys do? What powder dispensers do you guys "dump" with? Lots of the same powder, black or smokeless change. For long range, out to 1000yds scale weight gives better accuracy with a shot string

For the 45 Colts, weigh and then drop with a Dillon 550B.
All other calibers, 22LR to 50-70 are dropped with several chargers onto a digital scale for weight: Lee Powder Perfect - B&M and the Lyman's #5 and #55 for both BP and smokeless

[mpmarty]

I use a scale to adjust the powder measure. I dump three or four loads and check it again on the scale. If all seems OK I just go for it. My Dillon 550B measures seem to hold their settings and are quite accurate for me.

[fouronesix]

I used to drop, trickle and weigh each charge for target work and just drop (Lym 55) for everything else. I finally checked for differences by comparing group sizes- I found no difference.

Now I drop for everything except my higher pressure Jbullet loads if they approach max load type. I drop, trickle and weigh them NOT for better accuracy but for safety and reliability.

[DistRifle]

It depends on the distance being shot. 300yds and under get dumped. After 300yds, I weigh (brass after it's prepped, bullets, and powder). Variations in velocity matter more as the distance increases - vertical dispersion. I usually looked for loads with SD < 10 fps (10 shot strings) for long range. Lot's of rounds at 600 to 1000yds proved this method works.

I will admit that part of it is mentally knowing the rounds are as consistent as I could make them.

[uscra112]

Weigh every one. My RCBS measure isn't consistent, even with the ball powders. The more I weigh, the more convinced I am that I have to weigh. A 25 grain charge will vary +0.2 to -0.4 grains over a dozen or so charges with H355. That's too much for my taste. No pattern to it, either. I'd use my Belding and Mull more, but it slows me down.

[1bluehorse]

I used to drop, trickle and weigh each charge for target work and just drop (Lym 55) for everything else. I finally checked for differences by comparing group sizes- I found no difference.

Now I drop for everything except my higher pressure Jbullet loads if they approach max load type. I drop, trickle and weigh them NOT for better accuracy but for safety and reliability.

What he said......

[atr]

Using a Lyman 55
some powders drop very accurately so there is no need to weigh and trickle charge even when loading to the maximum....other powders arn't so forgiving and should be weighted and trickle charged when maximum loads are used.
very seldom do I load to the max, Im usually at the 85% range of Max, so dumping works for me and even if the powder doesn't behave I am happy if I can keep the loads within +/- 2 grains.
if I do load to the MAX then I would weigh and trickle charge
I generally check 1 in every 10 to make sure the charge weight is consistant and within tolerance no matter what
atr

[BAGTIC]

I use a 52 year old Redding powder measure. I ocassionally check it with check weaights and it has never varied by more than 1/20 grain nor have the powder charges thrown with it. I make a point of using the same rhythm and force when throwing charges always making sure to get a good 'knock' for consistency. Also, any throw that feels different due to a grain being cut or other hang up automatically get dumped back in the hopper and rethrown. Consistency of procedure is the most import thing in getting consistent results. Do not depend on the equipment to do everything.

[captaint]

Regardless of the powder measure of choice, consistency in operation is super important. Vary the stroke or intensity in the stroke - everything changes - probably for 2 charges. Mike

[Wolfer]

My Sinclair book says weighing your charges is the least important thing you can do in the reloading process. I don't shoot much off the bench anymore so I just use my scale to set my measure.
My advise is to load 10 loads with your favorite charge and then 10 more on either side twice as much as your measure is off. Meaning if your measure throws to 1/10 gr then load these others 2/10 off and shoot for group and also POI. Then you know whether your rifle needs weighed or not.
I tried it and that's why I don't weigh each charge. I also don't own any bench rest quality guns so I may be comparing apples to oranges.

[Cadillo]

The expensive electronic scales only claim accuracy to +/- 0.1 grain. That's a spread of 0.2 grain. A good measure will hold to that standard if properly used. I've watched a benchrest shooter load at the range using a measure. He knew and trusted the dope on the micrometer adjustment. No scale in the range bag.

[Shiloh]

It always depends on powder grains. I dump all ball powders but I weigh stick powders. I dump into the pan and add what is needed.

+1
Stick powders get thrown light and have the powder trickled on the scale pan.

Shiloh