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GP100man
12-23-2012, 04:52 PM
Me & beagle have been conversing on the differences & whys of the 358156 & the 357446.

I`d purchased a 156 mold & had it deshanked some time back but never tried it out until yesterday .It was kinda finiky & troublesome to get good square fillout on the front band . Probably had 50% that were sharp.

So I started thinking of the details an old caster talked `bout but did`nt sink in until yesterday or rather last nite.

First level the mold or at least your mold guide so the mold is`nt cocked.

Second pay attention to rate of flow & adjust to accordingly, try different rates.
Usually smaller molds like slower rates, larger faster.

Third consistent temp is a must .

Fourth clean alloy is a must .

& here`s #5 never move the mold when the alloy is still in a molten stage . It`ll pull metal from the sides instead of the puddle.

Now fellow casters I`ve cast many times with many molds & have`nt ran across 1 exactly like this 1 would act. So I went over the details & fired the Mag20 back up got everything hot & PRESTO !!! rejects were practically non existant !!!!

Mold: Lyman 358156 DC (manufacture date 12-08)
Alloy: Isotope container to mixer valve 2 to 1
Temp: 710f , My Mag 20 holds the temp + - bout 7f
Rate of flow : slow to the way "I" think , 1.5 seconds to fill mold & a thick sprue plate .

Almost forgot factory drive band is 358 on the money , Buckshots band is 360, the crimpin bands come in at 356.

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx110/GP100man/102_1216.jpg

cabezaverde
12-23-2012, 05:10 PM
Who did the deshank?

GP100man
12-23-2012, 09:25 PM
Buckshot.

He`s a Super Moderator Here on :cbpour:

Super Machinist !!

He did a deshanking on this DC mold & HPed another for me .

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx110/GP100man/102_0583.jpg

RobS
12-23-2012, 10:57 PM
Cool. I had buckshot make me a lube die once and you are correct, he does great work.

MT Gianni
12-24-2012, 12:19 AM
Rule #5? Do you only fill one cavity before you let the alloy set up then go to the next hole? I have one troublesome mold I have not tried that with.

HighHook
12-24-2012, 12:45 AM
Good look'in Boolits makes for a Happy Castmaster...:drinks:

PAT303
12-24-2012, 01:39 AM
I recon he's gunna have more work now Lee's using pins instead of the bar in their ''new'' molds,they are just asking to be hollow pointed. Pat

GP100man
12-24-2012, 12:28 PM
Yes, I let the sprue flash over before moving to the next cavity.& also alternate which 1 I fill first ,to keep the heat even in the mold.

& this mold likes the stream thru the hole & kinda slow .

I`m sure more tin would help ,but by my calculations the alloy should be close to 3%.

Those sharp turns are really a pain , kinda thinking of opening the vents a little .

youngda9
12-24-2012, 02:00 PM
I can see rule #5 put to use for only persuits of extreme accuracy...it's a time vs. benefit thing.

Manually sizing the bullets would help to alleviate any issue. Upon firing, the bullets slug-up and are then sized down to bore size (we cast .001-.002 over-size)....I doubt rule #5 is all that beneficial.

Has anyone done any testing and can produce any solid data from a good sample size of bullets cast in the same sitting using both methods?

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
12-24-2012, 02:30 PM
Now, and I know not everyone is a ladle caster, but if you were using a Rowell bottom pour ladle, there is no/zero issue about moving the mold between cavities, as the ladle moves and not the mold.

That bottom pour ladle is simply a very good way to go!

Just the opinion of the -------------

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot