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Jim
03-20-2007, 08:59 PM
I got casting hot glue boolits down to a science. It's late and I don't have time to post the procedure, but will try to tomorrow afternoon after work. Anywho, I figured out how to cast a hot glue bullet that is a perfect copy of a WW boolit. No flanges, no fins, no bubbles.

Details soon,

Jim

G. Blessing
03-21-2007, 07:38 AM
Simple question; Why?

Honest, I've never heard of such a thing, and I'm interested.
Looking foreward to hearing about it and the procedure.

Gary.

woodman51jfk
03-21-2007, 12:07 PM
Hello G. Blessing,
As Master At Arms of the NAGS, National Asociation of Glue Shooters, formerly the Glue Shooters Society, allow me to attempt answering your simple question with an equaly simple answer:


Fun, fun, fun:Fire: ..............cheap, cheap, cheap:mrgreen: ............

We all like to shoot, as much as we can , and we all like to save as much money as we can. Shooting glooblits accomplishes both of these goals. Shooting a glooblit takes only a primer, case, and boolit formed of hot glue. These can be shot in the comfort of your den, basement or garage, ( actually anywhere SWMBO is OK with it ), and won't attract unwanted attention even in the backyard of your neighborhood. If you're unfortunate enough to live where you are driven indoors by any type of foul weather for extended periods of time, this offers a relief from cabin fever, needing the barest of supplies, and utilizing an old cardboard box for a targer. Since the inception of NAGS, I have loaded and shot inside my den my SBH, with just a Lee hand primer, and an old piece of carpet hung as a backstop, to enable reuse of all glooblits. Here in Central Texas, I can walk 20 feet out my back door to the end of my own personal 100 yard range, and shoot the real deal anytime I want, but it is still fun just to sit in my recliner and make the cats nervous[smilie=1: , ( would never actually hit one )..........................so G. Blessing, it's back to just the two main answers short form.....................fun, fun, fun, cheap, cheap, cheap............:drinks:

Ricochet
03-21-2007, 12:54 PM
Do remember that most of our primers are based on lead styphnate and also contain barium and antimony (that are about equally toxic with lead.) Shoot 'em only outdoors or with really good ventilation. There are lead-free and completely nontoxic (the residue, that is) primers now, but most of us aren't using them yet. Toxic smoke particles are most excellently absorbed through the lungs, as smokers of tobacco, crack and meth can attest.

woodman51jfk
03-21-2007, 01:17 PM
......absolutely correct sir, and a very important caveat to my dissertation. I too often assume that folks would have the foresight to have proper ventilation if popping caps, molding, painting, laquering, or anything else with dangerous vapors, indoors, and I appreciate your bringing it to the page...apologies for my omission............ and reminding me not to assume............

Jim
03-21-2007, 08:27 PM
Woodman,
A finer Master at Arms will not be found on this planet. I'm proud of you, Sir. You are an asset and positive representation of NAGS. I'll be sure to include this in my report to the president at our annual meeting.

Thanks again for your service and positive attitude!

Jim

Jim
03-21-2007, 08:30 PM
Gentlemen all,
Please forgive me for not getting the data posted promptly. I came home this afternoon to find that my dog and faithful companion of 6 years had been snake bit.:( I rushed him to the vet and he is going to be OK. It's been a rough day and I'm gonna hit the sack. Again, please forgive me. I WILL get the data posted.

Jim

Nueces
03-22-2007, 12:14 AM
Glad your pup is OK. And I'm completely enjoying this thread, it's very much in the spirit of the Bug Blaster mindset. "Why", was asked; "Joy", was replied. :drinks:

Onward, through the fog!

Mark

dk17hmr
03-22-2007, 01:57 AM
Gentlemen, as Co-founder of NAGS I have realized that no one has made a shotgun slug yet.

If I had the reloading equipment for it I would have to try some black powder with one of those Lee slugs you use a standard hual and wad with.

That could be very interesting...any takers on casting and loading them?

I have a 12 gauge that will work for this experiment.[smilie=1:

woodman51jfk
03-22-2007, 02:14 AM
........well Prez.....the thought did occur, but there's already rubber boolits fer scatterguns, and I ain't real sure just a primer would push a glooblit down that long tube.......I feel we must turn to the R&D section for more indepth studies.....and Jim, glad the hound'll be allright...had a black lab got rattler bit..vet said he couldn't do anything ( early 70's ).if he survived he'd be OK, nearly immune....colonel loved to bring us dead snakes after that..trophies I think....
...hay Nueces.......careful there..........you could give yourself away :roll: ..........there could be others here remember the 'ol Austin of the 70's & early 80's:mrgreen: O.W.'s always had such a pleasant atmosphere...........

dk17hmr
03-22-2007, 03:24 AM
With the wad protecting the GB slug I think we could pepper the load. Poor mans rubber bullet if you will.

Just the ticket for deer that wont stay out of the garden.

Jim
03-22-2007, 06:08 AM
Jones, my buddy, seems to be OK this AM. Limping, swolen and very tender to the touch, but breathing and gums are pink(vet said BIG indicator!).

12 gauge slug, huh, Doug? Pardon me, Mr. President. I forgot you told me first names only when we're at Sullivan's. OK, I guess I'm gonna hafta look into a 12 Ga. Lee Loader and a slug mold for the R&D Dept.. Mr. President, we'll be needing to nominate and elect a treasurer soon. I'm sure this is going to draw mass attention and the finances for research is going to flood in.
I believe a shot sleeve would suffice in protecting the barrel from the "base material" of the slug smearing onto the barrel wall. Also, I've been thinking about trying 4X fine high grade graphite as a tumble type lube. The bullet base material has a bit of a tacky surface to it when it first comes out of the mold. If R&D can develop a process whereby the dry lube is applied and will stick, that could open several avenues of exploration.
Concerning the options of "peppering" a slug with a bit of Unique or Clays or the like, I believe this would be totally dependant on being able to lube the slug good enough for a 28 or 30" ride. So far, R&D is still working on perfecting casting techniques and research for dry lubing is still in the planning stages.
The upside of the base material is, compared to lead, it's virtually weightless. A gluelit cast in a 158 gr. pistol bullet mold weighs in at 13 grains, less that 10%. Within reason, no pressure to speak of. The down side of this stuff is, it requires lubrication like nobody's business because of the softness and high friction factor. I have yet to fire a cast gluelit down the barrel. Chief of R&D feels that casting should be perfected before proceeding to the next step. One bridge at a time.

Mr. President, thank you for the priveledge of this position. Master at Arms, thank you, Sir, for effectively controlling the crowd.

woodman51jfk
03-22-2007, 11:42 AM
.....dropping the new gluelit directly into the graphite would seem to insure adhesion, makes me wonder if using something like Frankford Arsenal's Drop-Out spray on, or something similar, on the completed pills would work???........this is above my pay grade, definitely R&D territory........who it seems already needs a larger budget and staff to address a growing list of projects............:roll:

As far as secretary treasurer nominations, I submit Ricochet for the position.......he has the acumen for the position, as well as a keen eye for detail, and I feel he wouldn't let us stray into fiscal distress ( if we ever develop a fiscal being! ).

What say all?.............

dk17hmr
03-22-2007, 11:54 AM
I 2nd.

Lucky Joe
03-22-2007, 04:43 PM
This is a great board.

jballs918
03-22-2007, 06:33 PM
well me being one of the young guys on the board, i love R&D. but my thing is time. but one good thing is that the tools required for casting this are please easily taken with you. you guy talk about a lube. what about PAM cooking spray. we are dealing with low temps why not just stray the mold with pam and then that should work for lets say most likey 3 or 4 sets i would figure then just respray. after this is done one could then just drop then into a bowl of hot soapy water to clean then. now to the dry lube. i need to know if you guys are just using a primer to shot these. i have a gp100 that i may give a whirl to. i have a cheap idea for dry lube. what do you think about talc. or maybe even better corn strach. this sounds like a really good and fun way to cpeapy shot, but still get trigger time. maybe we can even make a 3 to 5 yard lague lol. well just some more fuel for the fire.

DLCTEX
03-22-2007, 09:23 PM
You guys keep this up and I'll have to hunt up my glue gun. DALE

jballs918
03-23-2007, 02:11 AM
well i fired up the old glue gun tonight. i started with an old roundball mold and made a few. not to bad except the top of them were not filling out. not sure why. ok pam does work for this. but one thing i did notice was that it takes a few minute for it to cool. so keep this in mind as we do this. the over all shape was not to bad. i really think i need a better glue gun. im not sure if mine can heat up fast enough. ok so i went on to an old lee 38spl 158 swc. well this took a bit of practice to get some good ones. but i did. i only made 10 and got 3 good ones. im thinking that my gun has alot to do with this issue. recovery time. well i put them into the cases and cramped them down. now here is where im hosed i cant test fire anything as i live on an airforce base. they dont take to kindly to that. so i got 3 loaded and cramped no primer yet. i think this may actually turn out to be pretty cool

Jim
03-23-2007, 05:59 AM
I'll have some time off this weekend. Let me get this day behind me and I'll get some info up on the latest R&D.

How 'bout it, Ricochet? You up to taking the nomination as treasurer of NAGS? It's a very prestigious postion with absolutely no perks at all! Ahh, well, what th' hay. I'll send ya' some gluelits to test fire or sump'm.:roll:

Like jballs, The time I have to do R&D is limited. We ain't gonna perfect this thing overnight. As for ideas that might lend to this project, please, feel free to submit, regardless of how crazy you think they might be. Papa always said "Two heads are better than one, even if one IS empty!".[smilie=1:

Jballs, as for your problem getting a good cast going, I got that down. I'll post on that tonight(Friday) or early tomorrow AM.

Jim
:Fire:gluelits!---------------------------------X-------->

G. Blessing
03-23-2007, 06:19 AM
You guys keep this up and I'll have to hunt up my glue gun. DALE

yeah, me too!


This does indeed look to be fun! I'm in arural area so shootin' ain't no problem, but you hit the nail on the head about the weather; Being able to shoot somthin' like this in the basement when its -40f would be nice... .. or practicing my draw and shoot in the back yard. (been doin' that with full loads anyway... [smilie=1: )

Any probs with the glue leavin' a residue or anything in barrels? or in molds?

Any special glue your using?

do you need to lube them to shoot them?

:Fire:

Gary.

KevMT
03-23-2007, 11:36 PM
My son and I tried this idea out in the garage... sweet.

My son shot the group labeled T.man from across the garage (six paces). The other two were where I was playin "hopalong cassidy".

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/gakido_ninja/gloopsmall.jpg

jballs918
03-23-2007, 11:50 PM
kev please tell us what setup you used. i mean crimp no crimp lube no lube so on and so forth. inquiring minds want to know.

dk17hmr
03-24-2007, 01:47 AM
This is how I cast my GB's, I did this in my dorm room a few weeks back. This bullet is for my 1911 45 ACP, mold is a Lee Double Caivty RNFP 255gr lead bullet, glue cast they weigh 20grs.

1. Lube the mold cavity, I used vegatable oil applied with a tooth brush, very light coat this was all we had in our room.

2. With open spur plate shot the cavity full of glue.

3. Turn and put the mold in the freezer right away

4. Take the mold out after about a minute

5. Pop open the mold bullets fall right out because of the oil

6. Repeat.

7. As the mold is in the freezer, I took a utility knife and cut off base at the last lube band.

8. Leave them out for an hour on the country to harden up completely.

Case Prep.

1. Pick out 50 or so cases, mark the case head with a black marker to set them apart.

2. Drill out primer pockets to 1/8"

3. Prime Case, I am using Magnum Large Rifle Primers because we had 2 packs under the bench and no other reason to use them

4. Either hand seat the GB with finger pressure, or just set up your die in your press and seat them like a normal bullet.


This is my method, it works for me, when shooting a GB make sure there is a light coat of gun oil/lube so the GB doesnt get stuck in the barrel, happened to me with my dads Ruger, punched the bullet out without a problem, I have yet to have a problem with my 1911 and suspect I will not.

6 paces in my garage 10 shots
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/p1.jpg

Again these are not toys, I posted this picture a month or so ago when I first started playing with them, it is GRAPHIC/BLOODY, shots were first 5 to 6 yards, after animal was dead I tried point blank just to see GB did punch a hole in his side.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/possum.jpg

This was with just primers, no powder, 2 shots in the dome an it was lights out on this guy.

Tomorrow I will try a rifle bullet. I wish I had my Savage 340 30-30 in working condition right now would be perfect for this test. Has anyone tried to seat a gas check yet on a GB?

dk17hmr
03-24-2007, 03:15 AM
Well I couldnt wait for tomorrow to try to make rifle bullets, when I get an idea rolling around in my head when it is time to sleep I cant sleep, I need to know if it will work.

I cant test these out until I get a few small parts for my 30-30, I dont want to shoot them in my 30-06's to much $ in those.

My plan is tomorrow machine the primer pockets so I can use 209 shotgun primers. That, I think anyways, will give enough to push it out of the barrel with force.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/PlasticBullet30-30.jpg

It shall work!

G. Blessing
03-24-2007, 03:25 AM
Well, you got me hooked in Gents. I'm going to be trying to pick up a second .45 mold cheap, and diging out my Parents old high temp glue gun this weekend.

G.

KevMT
03-24-2007, 11:32 AM
kev please tell us what setup you used. i mean crimp no crimp lube no lube so on and so forth. inquiring minds want to know.

Good point,

I have a 41 mag so I had to cast my Gluelits. I coated my mold with spray graphite but that wasn't working too well. So now between each cast I swab the cavities with a light coat of "PAM" (applied with a Q-tip.)

Glueits were lubed with crisco but I think on my next try I will try tumble lubing them with a few drops of canola oil.

I found that the pistol primers I had on hand were not pushing the gluelit hard enough to reliably clear a 6 1/2" barrel. So I went to large rifle magnum primers and it works great when you seat the gluelits all the way down in the case so that they are firmly pressed abainst the case web (no crimp)

All female types in the house are now convinced that I am crazy.

Kev

KevMT
03-24-2007, 02:33 PM
I use a High temperature hot melt glue gun under the hypothesis that the glue might be stronger/harder (not sure if this is true).

Be forwarned, if you are casting gluelits with said high temperature glue gun and are too busy learing at Liv Tyler on Jay Leno to pay attention, you will hot glue the back of your hand. It burns like heck and leaves a dandy blister.

Be careful

Kev

KEv

dk17hmr
03-24-2007, 09:54 PM
I couldnt wait for the parts for my 30-30 to come in so I grabbed my brothers 336 out of the safe and tried a few. At first I couldnt get the round to chamber, primer was not seated into the case enough so I had to go back in and drill some more. It works now, accuracy was iffy and velocity was slow. I dont know if accuracy suffers because of the micro groove barrel on Zacs 336. You dont hear the primer pop all you hear is the GB hitting the cardboard.

I will have my parts for my Savage 340 this week and will get that back together with any luck it will shoot GB's good.

I did run one through my lee .309 sizer last night and crimped a gas check on the base, but I dont know we are talking about some money now...lol

Bullets are black because there are once fired, the only punched through one side of the box at 10 yards,
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/30-30plastic2.jpg

creepyrat
03-25-2007, 01:19 AM
so how about those slugs? lol

dk17hmr
03-25-2007, 02:08 AM
We have yet to have anyone step up and try it, as far as I know. I would but I dont not have the required equipment.

Buckshot
03-25-2007, 04:58 AM
..........You guys are having too much fun. How about if you dropped a BB in the nose of the mould and then added hot glue? A bit of added weight up front might aid upset due to inertia and also have a shuttle cock effect (potato in the sock type thing)?

...............Buckshot

Jim
03-25-2007, 09:42 AM
Mr. President,
Check the rifle gluelits after firing. If you notice any rifling marks on them, check your bore for smearing. A bore brush followed by a patch with Hoppe's will clean it up all spic and spam.

Creepyrat,
R&D is formulating a procedure for making 12 gauge gluelits. Right now, we're working on a lubing procedure for gluelits to be used in rifled bores. Give us time and we'll get there. Ya' gotta remember, we're opening doors that no one has ever been through.

Buckshot,
Your idea about a weight forward gluelit is also on the drawing board here at R&D. We're thinking that a spitzer point mold is going to be user friendly here as it would locate and keep centered a small round ball of some type. Again, we're working on all these ideas, but we're limited in our time and manpower resources.

By the way, Buckshot, how did we score a 4 star rating on this thread? If that came from you or one of the powers that be here at Cast Boolits, thank you! We appreciate your encouragement and support.

Finally, if anyone actually generates documented results through testing, PLEASE, notify us here at R&D. We can use all the help we can get. Thanks again to all for your participation.

Sincerely,

woodman51jfk
03-25-2007, 05:49 PM
....ineresting idea Buckshot..............poor VP R&D is geting run ragged:-? , and may hafta quit his "regular[smilie=1: " job to concentrate on NAGS:-D .........while we're all earegly awaiting Ricochet's response[smilie=1: to our nomination as Sec.Treas., I would like to nominate Buckshot as 1st Executive Vice President to our esteemed VP R&D chief....you too, sir, have the technical know-how and inquisitive:confused: nature that makes for premier R&D.....what say all???


.....do that four star mean we sumbody??????

Ricochet
03-25-2007, 10:08 PM
As far as secretary treasurer nominations, I submit Ricochet for the position.......he has the acumen for the position, as well as a keen eye for detail, and I feel he wouldn't let us stray into fiscal distress ( if we ever develop a fiscal being! ).
I'd missed this part. As for secretary, I can definitely type out a bunch of words. As a treasurer, I'm short of treasure. :-D

I think my wife has a hot glue gun around here somewhere. If she doesn't, I'm sure my artist kids have one lying around somewhere. I've got to give this a try!

As for fiscal responsibility, I notice that those blackened, once-fired gluelits look ready to go again. I'll bet these things are good for multiple trips down the pipe. 8-)

creepyrat
03-26-2007, 01:42 AM
i may pickup a slug mold in a few weeks as it has been on my mind anyways. if i get it ill send you a few doug.

Buckshot
03-26-2007, 05:33 AM
"By the way, Buckshot, how did we score a 4 star rating on this thread? If that came from you or one of the powers that be here at Cast Boolits, thank you! We appreciate your encouragement and support."

................Up at the top of the page for each individual thread there are a couple boxes. One is to "Rate This Thread". Anyone may go there and vote for the number of stars to put on a thread. It wasn't me, but someone who knew about it decided the thread rated the stars. I do to, I just didn't think about it!

What I need to know is that there doesn't appear to be an agreed upon official name for these semi translucent and somewhat flexible projectiles. Is it Gloolit, Gluelit, Glueblits or something else :-)

So far as R&D goes. Has anyone tried casting these things while the mould is sitting in a pan of chilled water, or does the glue set up too fast in the mould cavity that way?

..............Buckshot

Jim
03-26-2007, 05:49 AM
Has anyone tried casting these things while the mould is sitting in a pan of chilled water, or does the glue set up too fast in the mould cavity that way?

..............Buckshot[/QUOTE]

Good question, Buckshot!
It's a bit difficult to cast "gluelits" without actually holding the mold in your hand. The mold halves need to be held together pretty tight to keep the glue from spreading them apart. Also, if the mold is too cold, the glue sets up early, causing serious wrinkles and bubbles in the cast. Just as in casting lead, there's a window of temperature that needs to be maintained.

Jim

scottiemom
03-26-2007, 08:38 AM
I can't wait to try the gloobits, however I have a question about using PAM. When baking/cooking with PAM I notice that where there is spray but no food the PAM residue gets extremely tacky and is extremely difficult to get off the pot or baking sheet and once exposed to heat again is almost impossible to get off and it just gets worse as time goes on. would this same thing occur if you use it to cast the gloobits and if so, how much of a problem would it cause to equipment and such?

Just wondering.....

utk
03-26-2007, 09:37 AM
This process of "shooting glue" into the mold - isnīt that called "injection molding", rather than casting where the lead fills the mold by itīs own weight?

G. Blessing
03-26-2007, 04:41 PM
................ but someone who knew about it decided the thread rated the stars.
..............Buckshot

Guilty..... :o

Its just such a cool idea, and lots of good info here!
:Fire:

G.

Jim
03-26-2007, 05:07 PM
UTK,
You can call it injection molding, casting or just squirtin' glue in a mold, whatever suits you.

Scottie,
Not sure, but I think somebody already brought that up. If the mold is bought and used EXCLUSIVELY for making gluelits, I'm thinkin' it won't be a problem as there's no heat to deal with. HOWEVER, if you were to use the mold for lead and glue, now THAT might be a problem. 'Coarse, there's always carburetor cleaner.[smilie=1:

By the way, y'all, they're called GLUELITS. Got it? Who says? I just said it!:roll:

Sincerely,

woodman51jfk
03-26-2007, 08:30 PM
What I need to know is that there doesn't appear to be an agreed upon official name for these semi translucent and somewhat flexible projectiles. Is it Gloolit, Gluelit, Glueblits or something else :-)

So far as R&D goes. Has anyone tried casting these things while the mould is sitting in a pan of chilled water, or does the glue set up too fast in the mould cavity that way?

..............Buckshot


If I'm not mistaken, and I'm sure some of my fellow NAGS will let me know if I am:roll: ....I feel that all nomenclature is correct, as long as it leads to fun, fun, and fun, and cheap, cheap, and cheap...and is quite possibly a geographical dialection of descriptive terminology.............they can be ever what y'all are comfortable with:drinks: .......
and if you accept the nomination, I'm sure VP R&D will welcome the assist & information you glean from your efforts..........[smilie=1:

woodman51jfk
03-26-2007, 08:35 PM
...:oops:............my bad .....I just saw the R&D post..............they be GLUELITS........I stand corrected............[smilie=b:

jballs918
03-27-2007, 02:06 AM
with the pam i found that the temp was low enough that it didnt get sticky. basically spray, wipe off excess, and drop maybe 4 or 5 sets, then repeat. at teh end all you have to do is to wash it off with dishsoap. then treat them like a normal mold

Jim
03-27-2007, 05:45 AM
Jballs,
Now THAT'S the kind of mindset that's needed in R&D! Experiment, document and report. Did I mention we have some openings? The position is very lucrative![smilie=1:

scottiemom
03-27-2007, 08:10 AM
UTK,
Scottie,
Not sure, but I think somebody already brought that up. If the mold is bought and used EXCLUSIVELY for making gluelits, I'm thinkin' it won't be a problem as there's no heat to deal with. HOWEVER, if you were to use the mold for lead and glue, now THAT might be a problem. 'Coarse, there's always carburetor cleaner.[smilie=1:

By the way, y'all, they're called GLUELITS. Got it? Who says? I just said it!:roll:

Sincerely,


ok, gluelits they be!! thanks for the response on the PAM - just would have hated to see peoples molds ruined....I wonder if that carbuerator cleaner would work on my baking pans.....

jballs918
03-27-2007, 10:29 AM
dont think that would be so well. it seems that the pam only geets really sticky if it heated up, or burned off a pan. but please remember this is just from what i have done in the kitchen. one thing i did notice with one of my molds was a bit of gulling it that is what it is called. but i looked and i have a burr on my spure plate

Jim
03-27-2007, 05:46 PM
"But I looked and I have a burr on my spure plate"

A burr on the sprue plate!? That's terrible!! Now, ya' gotta throw the whole thing away! This is horrible!! :(

Send it to me and I'll decomm it for you.[smilie=1:

georgeld
09-11-2007, 10:00 PM
Interesting as hell gentlemen. Entertaining to read too.

Scottie: Yrs ago while trucking south Texas someone suggested spraying the face of the the truck with PAM to keep the Love Bugs from sticking. Seems that helped the bug problem somewhat. But, getting The PAM off the paint was much like divorcing Pam, and nearly as costly.

As a kid, we played with loading 12ga. Someone, possibly me, suggested instead of filling the cardboard hulls with plain parafin wax, that we should do a little R&D dropping glass marbles in the wax. Proper testing proved they WILL blow huge holes thru railroad tie fence posts at 20-30 feet.

I've wondered while reading this if it would be worth trying to just inject the glue directly into the lubed/Pam'd case, the after set up, inserting the primer, or putting a small cotton ball, or wad of somekind inside on top the primer. That would make WC's. Anyone interested in doing a little R&D with this? I'd offer my expert opinions but, don't own a glue gun and I'm the only one on this property.

Iv'e also been wondering what the cost of the glue is, not having ever used, or purchasing it.

Thank you, please carry on,

Slick Pilot
09-14-2007, 01:02 PM
I'm glad to have stumbled across this thread. I shall give this a try for use in the back yard. Sounds like I may be able to pop away with the old 30-40 without leaving the premises.

Think Felix Lube will work?

booneh
12-05-2007, 10:20 PM
you might try motor mica. very slick. workes well on shotgun wads.

booneh

GrizzLeeBear
12-06-2007, 10:19 AM
This gluelit thing is very interesting! Has anyone shot any out of a pistol at more than a few feet? If they would work, I think they would be great in a .38/.357 for Bullseye Pistol, but the would have to be accurate at 50 feet (and be able to go through a target). Would help save precious WW lead for things that need longer range / harder hitting.

kellyj00
12-06-2007, 10:35 AM
I've got 6 45acp bullets made of pykerete that we mixed and froze the afternoon of October 20 (only hours before my wedding, needed something to keep my best man and I from fretting the crowd too much)

We have yet to send them downrange, but we're planning on 4grains of titegroup.

Didn't want to hijack the glue bullet thread, just wanted to share that we've started something else.

Possum
12-06-2007, 02:10 PM
Do I have to ream out the flash holes in the brass?

scrapcan
12-06-2007, 05:40 PM
Kelly00

more info on how you froze the pykerete? It is an interesting subject. One of the lost building materials.

oldfart
12-06-2007, 06:59 PM
I 've been playing with this.
I glued some for 45, 44, and even 22.
tried a few with magnum primers and they make stray dogs and cats scoot across the yrd :)

Possum
12-06-2007, 10:48 PM
I have some glue sticks that are very large. Slightly less than a .45 colt case. How much clearance do you need between the primer and the glue bullet? These press down inside the casing about 1/4" from the bottom. Would make one heck of a wadcutter.

Let me measure a few and see what the deal is.

If it worked there would be no casting involved for these. Just cut and seat.:mrgreen:

Just got out of the reloading room:
Yep, after resizing the brass the gluecutter press fit into the case without having to go near the bottom of the case. It sits about 1/4" into the top of the brass. I will test tomorrow and report how the wadcutter works.

Anything else I need to know before I touch off a few?

Georgeld, you wouldn't need a glue gun if this works. Buy the sticks, get a knife and you are in business!

mtgrs737
12-07-2007, 02:43 AM
I have some hot glue sticks that are large and intended to be used in a glue pot if anyone is interested.

crossfireoops
12-07-2007, 03:12 AM
HMmmmmm....,

I almost ALWAYS blend up more Acra-glas than I really need, .....up to now always used it to firm up garden tool handles, and other repair details......not one drop's gone to waste.

After reading this, .....now, ...

HMmmmmm,....

GTC

crossfireoops
12-07-2007, 03:19 AM
On a DEAD serious note....elastic co-efficients of obturation can sneak right up on you.

......I wrote about the risks of loading to many golf balls into 1.75" ML artys.....moons ago.

This is the same arena.

Nonna' youze' blowed yerselves up, ....here?

GTC

kellyj00
12-07-2007, 11:38 AM
Kelly00

more info on how you froze the pykerete? It is an interesting subject. One of the lost building materials.


I'll create a write up on the whole process with pictures if there's interest. I don't think it fits the scope of this thread though.

I probably shouldn't have said anything here, I don't want to steal the thunder from the glue guys.

Possum
12-07-2007, 11:57 AM
[QUOTE=kellyj00;254369]I've got 6 45acp bullets made of pykerete that we mixed and froze.......QUOTE]

I'm just trying to figure out what you do with the frozen feathers...:confused:



:-D

Morgan Astorbilt
12-07-2007, 02:08 PM
Boy, You guys are really getting into this thing. I used to be content with just pressing a .38spl. case into a block of paraffin, the kind sold in super markets for making jelly. Didn't drill out the flash hole, was afraid I'd get them mixed up with regular cases.
I also used to shoot my 1911 with sheet rock nails that I'd wrapped with masking tape, to .45 dia.,leaving about 1/4" of the point sticking out. They used to stick into a sheet of plywood pretty well. I also fabricated an adapter out of two cases and a ball point pen ink tube, to shoot a single birdshot using primer power. Got this idea from those "Real powder charged lead bullet firing "Lugers", using .12MG of powder" they used to sell out of the back pages of magazines. Turned up it was a plastic pistol, and it used a cap gun cap to propel a single lead birdshot, or a BB, I don't remember which.
I used the BB adapter and the sheet rock nails as a young buck, to shoot targets with my 1911 (unregistered), in my living room in Brooklyn.[smilie=1:
Morgan

P.S. I'll go down to the shop and see if I can find the .45acp BB adapter, and post a photo.

scrapcan
12-07-2007, 02:14 PM
Kellyj00,

good plan I will try to watch for the posting. I had not seen much on pykerete since it was mentioned in a mechanics of materials class. It is interesting topic.

kellyj00
12-07-2007, 03:58 PM
manleyjt: do a search for it on youtube. That's where I get all the materials engineering I've ever needed.

Ghugly
12-07-2007, 08:56 PM
Boy, You guys are really getting into this thing. I used to be content with just pressing a .38spl. case into a block of paraffin, the kind sold in super markets for making jelly. Didn't drill out the flash hole, was afraid I'd get them mixed up with regular cases.
I also used to shoot my 1911 with sheet rock nails that I'd wrapped with masking tape, to .45 dia.,leaving about 1/4" of the point sticking out. They used to stick into a sheet of plywood pretty well. I also fabricated an adapter out of two cases and a ball point pen ink tube, to shoot a single birdshot using primer power. Got this idea from those "Real powder charged lead bullet firing "Lugers", using .12MG of powder" they used to sell out of the back pages of magazines. Turned up it was a plastic pistol, and it used a cap gun cap to propel a single lead birdshot, or a BB, I don't remember which.
I used the BB adapter and the sheet rock nails as a young buck, to shoot targets with my 1911 (unregistered), in my living room in Brooklyn.[smilie=1:
Morgan

P.S. I'll go down to the shop and see if I can find the .45acp BB adapter, and post a photo.

About the first gun I ever shot was a trapdoor .45-70. My brother-inlaw loaded it with wax bullets and we were sitting on the living room sofa, shooting a pumpkin that was sitting on the kitchen floor. My sister came home and damned near had a stroke. Good times.:)

Morgan Astorbilt
12-07-2007, 10:05 PM
Found one of my .45acp BB adapters, and took a few photos. Not wanting to hijack this thread, I posted them, along with the details of how I made them, in a post called Indoor Pistol Practice, in the Special Projects forum.
Morgan

KevMT
12-08-2007, 01:44 AM
Do I have to ream out the flash holes in the brass?

In a revolver drilling out the flash holes is a nessesity. Probably doesn't hurt with other platforms as well.

Additional info on hot glue bullets can be found by doing a search on this forum for "Gluelits"

For me it also works best in a revolver to push the gluelit ALL THE WAY down in the case.

Kev

mauser1959
12-08-2007, 04:54 AM
OK, this is a bit off topic , but how far off is this from frangilble bullets. It sounds like a good place to start , especially since everyone has been messing with a matrix that would hold the metal powder in place. And it would have the advantage of not being destroyed when to much pressure was put onto the crimp groove when reloading. I know that your discussion has given me some pretty good ideas.

BAGTIC
12-09-2007, 12:58 AM
How do the gluelits behave on impact. Shatter" Splatter? Expand?

Would they kill tree squirrels humanely? Being so light the danger space from overhead firing should be considerably reduced.

KevMT
12-09-2007, 11:53 AM
How do the gluelits behave on impact. Shatter" Splatter? Expand?

Would they kill tree squirrels humanely? Being so light the danger space from overhead firing should be considerably reduced.

From distances of 10 yards or less I would guess that they would kill bunnies and squirrels. One forum member killed a possum with them by shooting it in the head. Accuracy and the lack of mass in the bullet would limit the range out of a handgun. Because the projectile is soft you will likely bludgeon the animal to death rather than killing it with penetration. Personally I feel that a 22 or 22 short offers little danger from the projectile coming down from overhead shooting because the bullet lacks any real mass.

On contact with hard surfaces the gluelit either rebounds, with considerable authority, or shatters. However they easily penetrate a couple of layers of corrogated cardboard at 7 yards.

Kev

Possum
12-09-2007, 02:02 PM
Shot some yesterday out of a 45 Blackhawk. The casings did not have the flash hole drilled out. The primers backed out and hung the cylinder up. If I drill the flash holes to 1/8 " will that stop the primer body from backing out? By the way, they penetrated a cardboard box and made a good indentation in the back of the box.

trickyasafox
12-09-2007, 04:19 PM
hmmm this could be great pest control for really close varmints that get into our garage. can't shoot em cause you don't want to ruin the floor but some of em beat our cats up pretty bad.

Ricochet
12-09-2007, 04:37 PM
Personally I feel that a 22 or 22 short offers little danger from the projectile coming down from overhead shooting because the bullet lacks any real mass.
I grew up reading those .22 box flaps that said: "Danger! Range 1 mile. Be careful." I'm more concerned about shooting up at an angle than straight up, as the bullet still has forward velocity when it comes down. Shooting up in trees with a .22 has always seemed risky to me, unless you're in one of the increasingly rare areas with vast, unpopulated terrain.

Saint
12-16-2007, 12:11 PM
I grew up reading those .22 box flaps that said: "Danger! Range 1 mile. Be careful." I'm more concerned about shooting up at an angle than straight up, as the bullet still has forward velocity when it comes down. Shooting up in trees with a .22 has always seemed risky to me, unless you're in one of the increasingly rare areas with vast, unpopulated terrain.

Just a note on that. I do not know exact numbers but if you fire a .22 straight up at one point the bullet will come to a complete stop and start falling back down. When a bullet is fired from a rifle it is moving beyond its terminal velocity (The speed at which an object in free fall will not go any faster). Terminal velocity is based on mass therefore for something the size of a .22 bullet it's mass will be relatively low. The bullet may leave the barrel at near 2000 fps but once it starts falling back down it no longer is being acted upon by the force of the powder charge, and the only thing moving the bullet at this point will be gravity. I would imagine that being hit by a .22 bullet in free fall at it's terminal velocity would not feel very good but I would doubt that it would be enough to even render a person unconscious. Granted there are other factors involved and a larger bullet could have the potential to be lethal. There are known cases of deaths from bullets fired into the air as well. If anybody really wants it I can get some supporting info for this if I.
"PLEASE DO NOT TEST THIS, AS I SAID PEOPLE HAVE DIED FROM BULLETS FIRED IN THE AIR AND MY ASSUMPTION IS BASED ON A VERY SMALL BULLET"

Ricochet
12-16-2007, 03:14 PM
Firing at an angle below vertical, bullets don't come down at terminal velocity. They still have significant forward velocity. The vector result is a speed higher than terminal velocity in free fall. The slowest it can get is when it's lost all forward velocity and is falling straight down at terminal velocity. (This is all in air, forget the theoretical stuff in a vacuum.)

Several years ago, around this season, I was sitting at my computer yakking as I am now, when to my left at the window I heard a loud WHACK as though someone had hit the brick just below the windowsill with a hammer. Best I could tell, a stray bullet (most likely fired from a car window by a drunken yahoo on The Volunteer Parkway a mile and a half away) had come down here. From the sound of it, it would've done a lot of damage had it connected.

I think it's generally irresponsible to shoot a rifle or pistol at a target up in a tree. I use shotguns for that.

Saint
12-17-2007, 04:46 AM
Agreed completely. This info was based on my physics training and the assumption that the bullet is being shot perfectly straight up which is nearly impossible as the bullet will always have some kind of an arc. Did not want to make it seem like I was disagreeing I just thought it was some fun theoretical science stuff. Anybody who is irresponsible enough to be shooting into the air near a populated are has no business owning a firearm.

Back on topic though. I managed to cast up some pretty good gluelits with a .454 and a .50 RB mould but unfortunately muzzleloader primers do not have the necessary power to get the gluelit down even my c&b revolver barrel so if anybody is thinking of trying this with a muzzleloader it probably wont work.

Ricochet
12-17-2007, 10:38 AM
Probably need a teeny bit of powder for that. I suspect that could be the case for any revolver, with the gas leaking out of the cylinder gap.

Saint
12-17-2007, 11:27 PM
I have considered that but firing off even primers in an apartment is pushing what the neighbors will tolerate. Probably just have to load up my guns and head to the range anyway. I have not been shooting in months and I am having withdraw symptoms. I am just not thrilled with the idea of riding my motorcycle in freezing weather. When you ride in the winter the first body part that freezes is the last part you want frozen.

Ricochet
12-18-2007, 05:07 PM
Get an air gun.

I've got no sympathy about the cold motorcycling. I used to ride my Harley and bicycle in all sorts of weather.

Steve in TN
12-18-2007, 11:12 PM
Hey guys, I'm a newbe to this site. Been casting about 12 years and now very glad to know that there others with this illnes, But glue boolits? I've shot a lot of paraffin boolits in 38 using a mag primer. How is a glue boolit better? Steve in TN

trickyasafox
12-19-2007, 01:36 PM
Steve- I think its because they are reusable, and they are the actual bullet profile. . .but I haven't tried this yet. Looks fun as all get out though!

tangofiftyone
12-19-2007, 04:15 PM
Ok, I read the whole thread yesterday and just had to try it.
40 s&w was the only empty case I had.
I put some hi-temp hot glue in it, even held the case with the hot glue in it upside down while cooling to get a rounded point on it.
Primed it, and put it in my Sig P229. Fired it at 2 cardboard boxes one inside the other.

I'm Hooked!!!
It shot right through 2 layers of cardboard and lodged in the 3rd.
I recovered the gluelit and did it again. Wow that was fun!!
I did get a few questions from the wife as to why I was shooting in the dining room.

I need a mold to make more. I need them to be a little tighter fit in the case.
I don't have a lead casting mold yet (on my list of things to get)
Has anyone made a gluelit mold out of plaster or something?
I think that is what I'm going to have to try next.

~Tango

Captain Midnight
12-20-2007, 12:18 PM
FrangibleBullets.Com can supply non-toxic primers in SP, LP, LR, SR. No shotgun primers available in non-toxic. They are expensive, $3.10 per hundred $31.00 per thousand plus UPS ground. Email and I'll get back to you. Rodney@FrangibleBullets.Com
Captain

KevMT
12-20-2007, 09:33 PM
How is a glue boolit better? Steve in TN

Steve,

I use gluelits for "draw and fire" or "acquire and fire" exercises with a SA revolver in my garage. For example, I attempt to draw and score a chest hit on a life size target from across the garage (7 yards) in less than a second. It is marginally safer than live ammo ( although I'm sure it will hurt like hell if I ever hit myself with one) and I can re-use the projectiles that are caught in my gluelit trap.

It's not unlike the use of wax bullets by cowboy action shooters except that in the case of wax bullets the projectiles can not be reused.

The fact that I can simply grab a box and head to the garage on a whim, rather than head to the range where I am sure to run afoul of some safety nanny, keeps things fun and easy.

Kev

WBH
12-21-2007, 01:02 PM
After reading this post I was intrigued. I had shot .38 cal plastic "brass" and bullets 30 years ago in my basement range................but "gluebits" that sounded like fun.
SO, I "cast" up a six-pack and tried them in my SA .45 Colt clone. What Fun.
The magnum primers with the factory flash hole were actually too powerful for my needs, so I switched to the Rem std LP primer. I still penetrated 4 layers of dense corregated board. I used a .45 cal maxi mould I had laying around the shop that I got in trade and never used. Gluebits dropped from the mould at .453 and weigh 20gr exactly.
I will add that the cylinder/barrel gap on this revolver is VERY tight, so minimal if any pressure is lost at the gap. Probably why I can use a std primer.
This is going to be fun. I might even turn my "73s into gallery guns for basement and rat shooting.

Thanks for the thread.

44 WCF
12-21-2007, 09:10 PM
I Have Used Hot Melt Glue For Years To Clean My Molds. I Fill The Mold With Glue To About 3/8 From Top, Insert Hex Drive Torx Bit. Then Fill Completely, Hold Hex Bit Straight To Let It Set Up, Open The Mold Cut Slits Lengthwise Apply 1000 Grit Polishing Not Grinding Compound, Put Back In The Mold Close Tight. Put Cordless Screw Driver To Hex End. With The Torx Bit Embedded In The Glue, I Turn It For Just A Few Seconds About 10 Revs Open Degrease To Very Very Shiny And Super Clean Moulds. Make A Second Glue Bullet, Coat Lightly With Moly Powder Do The Same, Then Turn Inside The Mold, Bullets Fall Out Super.
I Have Used Same Technique With Grinding Compound To Enlarge Mould That I Wanted To Open Just A Tad. Be Careful, Goes Quick.

mroliver77
12-22-2007, 12:51 AM
Hmmm, I gotta try this. I have shot waxlets and rublets but never a gloolit. I have some rubber seals ( caps? ) (.360) that look as though they could be the seal from a hypodermic ram. Much more solid but too flimsy to shoot well. Mebbe fill them with hot glue? The kid and I used to shoot her NEF .223 with a primer driven lead .22 pellet. Drilled flash hole and standard primers, shot very well at 30 feet and would penetrate a small magazine. The hammer falling made more noise than the muzzle blast. I tried a grain of bullseye and it did not fire the powder. I assumed lack of resistance was the cause of that failure. With a very light gluelet I bet one would have the same problem. I do have some blank powder now.................
One other thought " and I think it was mentioned" is to use a filler with the glue to give it some body (mass?) J

RU shooter
12-24-2007, 01:18 PM
I have been keeping up with this thread for a while now and just had to give it a try this morning I had an old lee 160 gr TL mold in 31 cal. and cast up some gluits and came out perfectly they weighted in at a svelt 12.5 grs! I had the 03A3 standing there so that was my test bed. drilled out a primer hole to 7/32 and lubed with balistol oil . primer was a CCI regular LR pushed the gluit into the neck . Now the moment of truth!!!!!!!! Puffffff!:( my little gluit never made it half way down the tube! so I added .5 gr of red dot and it worked well and still very quiet. But that kinda defeats the purpose of this whole thing . Whats size must I drill out the primer hole to accept a shot shell primer?
Next step is to cut the base of the bullet shorter and to trim the nose off some to make it shorter and less weight in hopes it will atleast exit the barrel. Any other ideas from the Gluit wizards.

Lucky Joe
12-24-2007, 04:24 PM
I think pushing a Glulit down such a long barrel is asking a lot from a primer. I use them in my .357 revolvers lubed with a touch of Pam and they go right along. Sure keeps the cats in the barn and not around the house. Also that oil may be a bit heavy give the Pam a try, you don't need too much I use it as mould release too.

georgeld
12-25-2007, 12:56 AM
Without looking thru the full thread, to keep from repeats. IF so, I apologize.

In the late 50's a bunch of us kids loaded 12ga with a blk pwdr looking white powder. Don't know where the idea came from but, we cut the ends off paper hulls, filled with melted parafin and dropped one or two glass marbles in it. They'd blow big holes thru tie fence posts. make a splash way out in the lake and kick up the ducks a a few hundred yards to make them flyover so we could get some shooting. Wonder what the Feds would say about that now days??

When blowing up water filled milk jugs one time I found either a golf ball, or tennis ball and set it on top instead of a lid. Wasn't any ball, nore parts around after shooting and looking for them. standing there a bit wondering why not. a heavy thump fairly close sounded. It was the ball coming back down from way the hell up there. That was before they were dyed green and other colors. Bet it would be fun to see if they'd go out of site with bright colors available now.

Last week I was in need of fireforming a bit over 300 5.7 case's necked down to .17's. Didn't have any bullseye, so used 3gr of the fine ball powder the 5.7's are loaded with as powder. Filled to the max with corn meal, then topped off to seal with soft parraffin pressed in hard packed after learning how hard and tedious it is to stuff the tiny holes with TP. Wax don't take near as long.

After shooting some 15' across the shop at the brick wall a mess was forming. Decided I didn't need that. So set up some cardboard at 10ft and shot thru it and still cleaned the loose stuff off the dirt floor and making it dusty.
Ended up laying a piece of steel plate on the floor and richocheting it against the cardboard to catch the splatters. After about 250 were fired that way there was a 3" high foot long etching nearly thru the cardboard. Proof it's still got more than enough power to raise a welt, or cut skin if a person was unlucky enough to get hit with it. Wasn't anything I could tell flying off in the air with a free flying shot across the shop though. So doubt they'd be much good at stinging stray cats. Have all the brass formed now, so am done with it.
Quantity of wax wasn't much either, maybe the size of a .22 LR bullet.

IT did do a decent job of fireforming those tiny case's, as was intended.

Great thread, have enjoyed reading the last three pages again tonight.
I've got some of those plastic/rubber .38's, just over a box full. Tried them inside an old building with white walls. They will leave a black mark. Great point and shoot pistol practice with the wheelguns though. IF the rooms enclosed it makes it easier to find the rubber bullets. I don't have a glue gun, might check into getting one someday IF there's ever any left over cash.

Merry Christmas to all of you this fine quiet Christmas Eve.

George

scrat
12-28-2007, 01:39 AM
ok before i go out making glue bullets. how loud are these things to shoot especially indoors

WBH
12-28-2007, 12:58 PM
As I mentioned before, I switched to a LR from a Mag LR due to un-necessary penetration and noise. The reg primer is like a kid's large "cap pistol" going off. Not even loud enough to make the dog run and hide. I found that wearing ear protection wasn't needed.

freedom475
01-05-2008, 03:11 AM
After reading this I had to try it...Took my RCBS 400gr 475 mould and gave it a generous coating of Frankford drop-out and filled the cav with hot glu with the spure plate open by pushing the glue stic and not using the trigger....when it cooled I found that it had glued my mould together.....pried it open and pried the now grey boolit out.Was now a little afraid to try it again but figure oh well. I filled the cav again without preping the mould with anything and this boolit just fell out almost clear.made 5 total,I cut them all off at the front of the last lube groove.

Bored out the flash holes to 1/8 on 5 cases and loaded them with Fed 215's, lubed the glublets with gun oil and loaded them in the FA 475 with 6inch barrel...Wow they had a lot of power and were very accurate (1 cal, sized hole for 5 shots 8in.low) at 7yrds, but the primers backed out and tied up the gun. Tried it again with 300LP primers and that was a lot better and the primers stayed put.


Chrono of the 2 loads went like this:Fed 215's=431,405,434,444,431fps.....CCI300's=204,196, 141,226,237fps

The 215's will shoot through a lot of cardboard and kithen cabinets(missed the wadded sheet that was in the box with 1).......needless to say SWMBO forbid any futher indoor testing......

Cleaned up the mould with acsetone(mostly to get all the Drop-Out from the vent lines) smoked the mould with a lighter and it cast WW just as good as it ever did. No need to get a special mould just to try this.
and its great fun.

Thanks guys for starting this thread.

Freedom475

Blammer
01-05-2008, 11:08 PM
hmm, glue boolits, them hard plastic then plaster, heck maybe someone will get a wild streak in em and try lead! wouldn't that be a hoot! a lead bullet, who whoulda thunk! lol

Biathlon
01-07-2008, 01:04 PM
Long time reader, first time poster.

Gloolits, what a novel idea, I checked the hot glue sticks at work they measure .452" in diameter. Perfect for my 45, just cut to length. As for other uses for gloo in shootin, I have been filling tennis balls with glue to shoot out of my WW1 Enfield with the cup grenade launcher. I use about 3 grains of Unique, the ball will go about 150 yards, my first attempt, I lost the tennis ball at around 450 yards, too much powder! If I do not fill the balls with glue, there is a flame hole cut in the tennis ball for the first shot. What fun at the range with bowling pins at 100 yards!

JFriis
02-11-2008, 01:26 PM
A post I made on another site I visit:


i36.photobucket.com/albums/e30/Friiguy/untitled.jpg





I recently read a thread on castboolits about glue boolits as they call them, and figured I would give it a shot.
So i get out the hot glue gun and my recently acquired bullet molds and set to work.

First I cleaned out all the residue and grease from the previous owners casting experiments.
Then I Started pushing as much hot glue into the mold. I found that if you let the newly formed gluelit cool too long it would stick to the mold something fierce and if not cooled enough, the center of the gluelit would become hollow.
After making a few of these, I stuck one into a freshly primed case and loaded her up into my 1911.

Accuracy was amazing at 15'. It shot to POA and though I didnt shoot for groups, it probably will get around an 1.5" or 2" no problem. The glue boolit also went through the IDPA cardboard target and onward for some ways. I fired 2 rounds (it was dark) and was able to recover one (the darker looking one in the picture) and I plan to shoot it again and again. No Glue residue in the chamber or barrel.

Cost of this experiment?
10 primers and about .25 in glue.

[BD]

miestro_jerry
02-11-2008, 02:24 PM
This sounds interesting, I do not lack space for shooting because of my farm, but my brother lives in the suburbs and can only shoot at the range or in his basement.

I would like to see or hear more about this method from any one out there.

Jerry

calsite
02-11-2008, 09:10 PM
I used to shoot parafin bullets, just using a primer and pushing the sized case over a piece of parafin. shot O.K. out to about to 10-12 feet. How are hot glue bullets in your bore?

youngun
02-11-2008, 10:46 PM
Just goofy enough to peak my interest. I have a glue gun. I have moulds. I have cases and primers. I even have a pistol! Dang, have to go buy a cardboard box. Maybe U-Haul?

ktw
02-12-2008, 01:30 AM
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/30-30plastic2.jpg

This one catches my interest as something to the scare the red squirrels off the birdfeeders.... Will report back when I get a chance to test it out.

-ktw

JFriis
02-12-2008, 10:17 AM
I used to shoot parafin bullets, just using a primer and pushing the sized case over a piece of parafin. shot O.K. out to about to 10-12 feet. How are hot glue bullets in your bore?


I was shooting accurately to about 15' feet fairly easily last night. I am sure they will shoot further, I just need a good chance to relly try it out.

My bore has no signs of glueing.

racepres
02-22-2008, 09:00 PM
Quick note: The other day a friend gave me some Blazers all fired! Never even gave 'em a thought before.. but not wanting to simply "recycle" them.. I resized a couple.. no decapper, then hydraulic'ed the primers out using the "pusher" for my lee boolit sizer. Decided to get rid of the Berdan primer "post", ended up on the crude!!! Drove the sucker out w/ a punch, right into the case. Now says I, whatta big primer flash hole we have!! Since I do Not like to enlarge the flash holes on "good" brass, I try these suckers w/ gloolits!!! This is a pretty good way to go for my primer powered loads.. and I don't have to 1] resize the things ever again... and 2] Wreck my "good" brass by enlarging flash holes!! Just sumpin a bored HickerBilly done.. and shared w/ you.. MV

Buckshot
02-23-2008, 01:27 AM
................Sometime back last year I'd reported seeing "45 Caliber" hot glue sticks at Harbor Freight. Last time in I picked up a package of them. They're marked .450". The bag I got had 25 sticks 4" long for $2.99 so that's about 12 cents a stick. I pulled one out, and using the dial guestimaters they were from .448" to .453" checking several places around the OD the length of the stick.

I took a boxcutter and cut off a piece about 0.5" long and stuck it in a primed and flared 45 Colt case. I loaded it in my Vaquero and backed off about 12 ft from the rear garage wall. The back wall is finished in T&G Yellow Pine. I aimed at a handy knot and sqeezed her off. The Gluelit hit perfect for windage but about 4" low. It also put a very visible perfectly round impression in the board, about 1/32 to 1/16" deep.

I couldn't recover the slug as the back wall has a bunch of junk cluttered up against it. However, after the good solid "WHAP!" sound it made hitting the board, I heard it banging around amongst the flotsom and jetsom around the floor.

..............Buckshot

Jim
02-23-2008, 09:09 AM
For those of you that have .45 caliber handguns, gluelits are easily loaded without the trouble of casting. Prime an UNSIZED case, smear a LIGHT coat of grease on a glue stick, shove the stick all the way to the bottom of the case, cut the glue stick off square with the mouth of the case with a razor knife, lock and load!
The grease helps to get the glue stick all the way in the case and lubes the gluelit for the ride down the tube. Large magnum rifle primers will really get the gluelit zinging along, too. I shot up a plastic patio chair with these things so, remember, they have a little bullet energy to them.
Oh, one more thing: You might experience your primers backing out. Opening the flash hole to 1/8" will help with that. Just remember those cases are now dedicated to gluelits! Maybe a little color coding to keep them seperated?

Be safe and HAVE FUN!

JFriis
02-25-2008, 12:53 PM
All right, how about some numbers?

Chronograph placed 1' in front of target, target shot at 15'. Both sets were shot offhand, unsupported with a S&W 1911 PD (Commander Length).

Test #1 - Standard brass (Not drilled).
Average bullet weight 22 grains.
Average Velocity - 420 FPS.
5 shot group was right at 2". Would have been 1.5" except for one shot that may or may not have been me.


Test #2 - Brass drilled with 1/8" bit

Average bullet weight 22 grains
Average Velocity - 400 FPS.
5 shot group was right at 1.5".

Both tests had a wide deviation in FPS, =/- 15 fps either side of the average.
A long range test was performed with a single shot at 50 feet. The chronograph had a result of 358 FPS and the shot itself was fairly close to point of aim.
Energy calculations place this at 8ft lbs of force (Not sure what that means, but a 25 ACP is around 50 ft lbs if I recall correctly.)
Most of the recovered bullets were fine except of few that appeared to have shattered after hitting the plywood backstop. 80% recovery rate and 75% of those are reusable.

Jim
02-25-2008, 05:40 PM
I just realized That I failed to make the sequence of loading clear. If you lube the gluelit and seat it BEFORE you prime the case, it's a lot easier. Pushing a lubed gluelit into a primed case traps air and the gluelit has a tendency to pop back up.
I just came in from the patio test firing a coupla' loads. I put a gluelit the full length of a .45 Colt case through a plastic flower pot. Janet's gonna gluelit me!

EDIT ADDENDUM: I used a large magnum rifle primer in an undrilled case and had no problem with the primer backing out.

dakotashooter2
02-26-2008, 06:41 PM
Well I'm a new convert. Cast /injected (?) a dozen gluelits of a .41 Lee TL design.
Fired from a .41 Tracker.
Loaded 1 in an unaltered .41 case and just a bit of crimp, with a mag primer. Shot into an old pillow and wow what an impact. No penetration but a solid thump. Naturally the primer backed out.

Tried a few more then drilled out the flash hole on a trimmed down .41 case (.41 special) and primed again with fed mag primer. Wow even more impresive. The shorter case definately increased the velocity and didn't seem to effect the accuracy. Subsequent loads authoritavely penetrated two layers of corregated cardboard at 15 feet. Accuracy was minute of "post it note" though not to point of aim. Bullet showed no sign of damage after several firings, had no engraving from the rifling and left no residue in the barrel.

Accuracy testing is next. If I can still get MOP or better at 30 feet this may become an urban pigeon, crow and hare load.

:castmine:

218bee
02-26-2008, 09:22 PM
A WORD OF CAUTION: This intrigued me so I was going to do some research on "solids" for dangerous game and decided to use Krazy Glue......DON'T !!

Jim
02-26-2008, 09:48 PM
Dakota,
Lube that cast gluelit with a touch of automotive grease and your M/V will go up.

Vstrom
03-16-2008, 10:36 PM
We just melted about 3/8 inch of wax in a shallow flat baking dish and when hard just pushed a 38 special shell into the wax, used only a primer and had a lot of fun shooting targets downstairs at 25 ft. with my Colt Python!!!

Shrek
03-21-2008, 04:08 AM
Fellers,
I just caught this thread today. So of course, I had to try it. Talk about a blast!
I started with my Lee C309-170 mould and my Lee 210gr 41 mag mould.
I found a few things to pass on.
If you take a wooden match and smoke the cavities every 3 times you use it, the gluelits will release much easier. And keep the mould cool. It makes a BIG difference.
I didn't weigh any but I used Win LRM primers in my 41 Blackhawk 6.5bbl. Across the livingroom, about 15 feet, they would go through 1 layer of cardboard and 91 pages of an old AVON catalog. Scared the bejeebers out of my dog too, every time I set one off! I do need to drill the flash holes though. Shot to POA as well.
Haven't tried the 308s in the 30/30 yet, Mama came home and caught me. Almost got sent to the 'Lectric Chair' for shootin in the house!
shrek

RP
07-20-2008, 03:47 PM
well I have shot the wax boolits so I had to try the glue boolits, I used lee 6 cav mold with out handles sprayed some cooking spray in the mold and wiped out excess. Turned the hot glue gun on and got to filling the mold. I did notice as the glue cools it lieaves a sinkhole in the base I did not use the spruce cutter and filled to a hump. Then I took a razar blade and trimed the boolits still being in the mold it held them nicely giveing me a good cut. Drill out some 40 cal casing and loaded. Did not lube them was to big of a hurry to shoot them worked good but did have a boolit stick in the barrel heat is the way to get it out.

Echo
07-22-2008, 01:01 AM
I remember back in the '60's the Bexar County Sheriff (San Antonio) had a prison riot on his hands, and settled it FAST by shooting a couple of rioting convicts w/wax bullets! DANG! They STING! Better get back in my cell! Wonder how that would go over these days...

Molly
08-09-2008, 09:48 PM
Hi fellows,

I have a question: Exactly what is the casting procedure used for glulits? Yeah, I read that it's just filling a mold cavity with hot glue, possibly with a little Pam to keep things civilized. But that leaves a whole lot of unanswered questions:

Is the sprue plate used in any way? I can picture filling the mold through it with the glue gun tip in the sprue hole. If not, how do you keep the glulits uniform in their bases? One post mentioned cutting off the base at one of the lube grooves. Is this to keep them uniform? Does anyone press the tip of the glue gun into the mold as they inject the glue to form a hollow base, like a minnie ball? Inquiring minds want to know.
Molly

copdills
08-10-2008, 06:37 AM
Y"all are having too much fun , guess I'll have to try LOL

Jim
09-14-2008, 06:46 AM
All,
It's been quite some time since I've been to this thread. I kinda' forgot about it. When I was experimenting with actually casting gluelits, I used a Lee mold. It took me a bit to work out a procedure, but I finally got it.
A touch of Pam helps with release. DO NOT preheat the mold. Keep it cool. This "fast forwards" the set-up time. Close the sprue plate and hold the nozzle of your glue gun tight to the sprue plate hole. Ya' gotta' hold the mold shut tight. Shoot the hot glue in. You'll know when the cavity is full as the hydraulic pressure will cause the nozzle to back off the sprue plate a bit. Give the glue gun one more shot as you are slowly backing away from the sprue plate. This will cause a build up of glue over the sprue plate. You need to do this 'cause when the glue begins to set up, there's a terrific suck-back into the cavity. Without the build-up, you'll get a void in the back of the gluelit.
Ya' gotta be patient with this. It takes a minute or so for the glue to set up. You can hasten this by holding the mold closed and dipping it in a container of ice water. You'll learn just how long this takes by trial and error. Be patient. Remember, we're jes' havin' fun here.
When the guelit sets up, open the sprue plate and the mold. The gluelit will not drop out. Ya' gotta' pull it out with your fingers. I would suggest you give the gluelits at least an hour to "cure".
When you're ready to load the gluelit, give it a LIGHT coat of grease. This helps not only with loading into the case, it also helps with the ride down the barrel. Without the grease, you'll get "leading" from the glue. The friction of the ride melts the glue and it smears on the inside of the barrel. Trust me, it's a real PITA to clean out.
SAFETY WARNING!: A gluelit is a projectile! Do not be fooled by the fact that they weigh next to nothing and have no powder charge. At close range(out to about 50 ft.), they will sting the p1$$ outa' somebody. If you doubt that, try a magnum primer and pop one on a plastic flower pot or patio chair. It'll go right through it. I've shot 'em through three layers of box cardboard at point blank range.

Enjoy and BE SAFE!

Jim

RP
09-14-2008, 01:19 PM
Oh just another warning for the glue boolits like the shot capsules glue boolits are not a good ideal for ported barrels. I have read this somewhere and it makes sense the plastic or glue will build up. Stated that the ports may shave the capsule or glue off and started to build up causing presures problems

dk17hmr
09-15-2008, 12:27 AM
Epic thread?

Here is the new thing guys,
209 primed 22 hornet case with a .22 cal air rifle pellet.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/DSCN0099.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/DSCN0097.jpg

These WILL bring a black bird out of the top of a tree.

GrizzLeeBear
09-15-2008, 08:59 AM
Interesting.

How do ream the hornet case for a 209 primer?

dk17hmr
09-15-2008, 10:11 AM
Drill it out with the case chucked in a drill press and put a drill bit in the vise at a 90. Hope you can picture that.

I drilled the case out so that the 209 will fall out, but you need to cut the rim down a bit to get the action to close, I did that in the drill press also with a file.

GrizzLeeBear
09-15-2008, 02:27 PM
Just a thought. Could you drill out a .357 case for a 209 primer? 209 primers are more powerful than mag pistol primers right? Would give you a little more oomph for shooting gluelits in a revolver without getting into using powder, etc.

dk17hmr
09-15-2008, 08:36 PM
You could, I actually did that with 30-30 brass.

Why more oomph when a magnum rifle primer WILL end a possum?

wbwizzard
01-31-2009, 09:06 PM
As the R&D department of NAG appears to be busy on other projects, I thought I would try to make some slugs for the shotgun, having had more fun than a man should with gluitts in various pistol calibers. I used the Lyman Foster mould in both 20 and 12 gauge using the procedures mentioned above. Good fill out was obtained by placing the tip of the glue gun into the sprue hole and filling until the mould started to separate. I found out later that it is best if the mould does separate a little as this will make a tighter fit in the case; the excess must be trimmed, but because of the hollow base it can be squezzed into the case. I found that Hornady one shot case lube works well to guarantee release from the hollow base insert. The best results were obtained with my 20 ga coach gun with 20''barrels. Cutting off the fold crimp made the fit a little easier. Do not shoot your neighbors cat with this load!!! The 12 ga was shot out of a single shot break open with 28'' barrel and cylinder choke; this was not quite soimpressive as the 20 ga.

dk17hmr
02-02-2009, 03:01 PM
wbwizzard....we need more info.
Powder, primer, shotcup?

Dframe
02-02-2009, 03:09 PM
I'm curious. Don't you have point of aim problems? When I shot plastic bullets years ago they shot SO low that I couldn't get my sights anywhere near point of impact.

Chiefs50
02-02-2009, 03:59 PM
Get an air gun.

I've got no sympathy about the cold motorcycling. I used to ride my Harley and bicycle in all sorts of weather.


Not too many folks want to try that up here in N. Wisconsin/Upper Michigan.

Mike

wbwizzard
02-02-2009, 08:48 PM
Doug, this was using just a win 209 primer, no powder as I thought this would be a violation of gluitte regulations. They worked best with the folded crimp cut off and the gluitte seated flush with the end. No wad was used as they contacted the case tightly. They showed no preference for either full or modified choke and were just a couple of inches below point of aim at 40'. I have only shot a few with the 12 ga and they don't seem to have quite as much power, for several reasons I would assume, heavier slug, more air resistance and larger volume for the for the explosive gas to expand into. Next, I want to try this in my winchester 9410; since I do not have a slug mold for this, I'll have to try round balls.

3rptr
02-09-2009, 02:45 AM
Great thread.
I'll be shooting tomorrow!

Did you NAGS decide on an official distance for precision shooting?
Inside, and perhaps backyard?
Glueblit silhouette anyone?

wbwizzard
02-14-2009, 08:43 PM
Update for glue slugs in shotguns; my first attemps with the 12 ga was not spectacular. After giving it some thought, I figured that the slug was not tight in the shell so I tried it again, this time pushing the slug all the way to the bottom, thus making a very tight seal as the inside of the case is tapered. Was I ever surprised; the slugs broke apart in the barrell, and this with a cylinder choke. That will be the end of that experiment. The round balls in the 410 didn't go much better. The round ball did not fill the barrel and therefore accuracy was poor. I tried making a bullet trap so the balls could be reused, but at 20' the ball went through 3 layers of corragated cardboard and two bath towels. May be best to let the idea of glue slugs in shot guns die,

delmar
02-17-2009, 10:09 PM
Neat idea, but I don't get going with the over sized primmer. Wouldn't it be so much easier just to add a touch of powder?

delmar
02-18-2009, 05:57 AM
I have been keeping up with this thread for a while now and just had to give it a try this morning I had an old lee 160 gr TL mold in 31 cal. and cast up some gluits and came out perfectly they weighted in at a svelt 12.5 grs! I had the 03A3 standing there so that was my test bed. drilled out a primer hole to 7/32 and lubed with balistol oil . primer was a CCI regular LR pushed the gluit into the neck . Now the moment of truth!!!!!!!! Puffffff!:( my little gluit never made it half way down the tube! so I added .5 gr of red dot and it worked well and still very quiet. But that kinda defeats the purpose of this whole thing . Whats size must I drill out the primer hole to accept a shot shell primer?
Next step is to cut the base of the bullet shorter and to trim the nose off some to make it shorter and less weight in hopes it will atleast exit the barrel. Any other ideas from the Gluit wizards.
Since the "purpose of this whole thing " is fun fun fun :Fire:...cheap cheap cheap it doesn't sound to me like adding that .5 gr of red dot would have defeated the purpose at all.


Question for the experts, if you are still paying attention to this thread.
If I wanted to add powder instead of using a magnum primer, would it make sense to put some sort of wadding between the powder and the glue stick, to keep the glue stick from heating up and leaving residue on the barrel? By doing so wouldn't it be possible, in theory, to build a round that reaches a little better target accuracy velocity? Outdoors of course!

Gunfreak25
02-19-2009, 04:03 PM
If you add just a tiny bit if powder, you can use some toilet paper rolled up lenghtwise, then placed into the case to protect the bullet base.


Does anyone know if these will work in a 30 inch barrel in a .40+ cal centerfire rifle? I imagine i'd have to use a tiny bit of powder at the very least to get it down such a long barrel.

delmar
02-19-2009, 05:53 PM
If you add just a tiny bit if powder, you can use some toilet paper rolled up lenghtwise, then placed into the case to protect the bullet base.


That sounds like it should work really well! Should it be rolled pretty tight?

I found a website that sells wax bullets for cowboy shooting. It says you can fire them with primers or add gun powder. It gives load data for using powder. The weight of wax bullets has to be really close to that of a glue stick the same size. I'm going to cast a wax plug the same size as the glue stick to compare.

I was thinking of giving the end of the glue stick a few turns with a pencil sharpener, not to sharpen it all the way, but to give it the shape similar to a "Keith bullet".

delmar
02-21-2009, 04:52 PM
OK here is what I have so far. I am thinking of making it longer than cast bullets so that it takes up much of the room in the case. Any ideas?

delmar
02-23-2009, 05:32 AM
All right, how about some numbers?

Chronograph placed 1' in front of target, target shot at 15'. Both sets were shot offhand, unsupported with a S&W 1911 PD (Commander Length).

Test #1 - Standard brass (Not drilled).
Average bullet weight 22 grains.
Average Velocity - 420 FPS.
5 shot group was right at 2". Would have been 1.5" except for one shot that may or may not have been me.


Test #2 - Brass drilled with 1/8" bit

Average bullet weight 22 grains
Average Velocity - 400 FPS.
5 shot group was right at 1.5".

Both tests had a wide deviation in FPS, =/- 15 fps either side of the average.
A long range test was performed with a single shot at 50 feet. The chronograph had a result of 358 FPS and the shot itself was fairly close to point of aim.
Energy calculations place this at 8ft lbs of force (Not sure what that means, but a 25 ACP is around 50 ft lbs if I recall correctly.)
Most of the recovered bullets were fine except of few that appeared to have shattered after hitting the plywood backstop. 80% recovery rate and 75% of those are reusable.

If I am reading this data correctly, it shows that drilling out the flash whole did not improve performance. Is that correct?

Gunfreak25
02-23-2009, 01:35 PM
Well when I made some wax bullets for my 9mm auto i did it the redneck way. Took a 9mm shell, stuck it in some wax all the way down, used a razor to clean off the mouth of extra wax, primed it. I walked 5 yards away from my target box, and put 3 shots (single shot of course) in less than 1 inch grouping, exactly where I wanted them. Needless to say it surprised the hell outta me for just some wax bullets. I recovered one of them that didn't melt to badly, it had rifling engraved into it, and was mushroomed out like a hollow point .

The toilet paper only really works the easiest in rifle loads, like .45-70 (straight walled cases).
For small pistol loads, if you find the base of your glue boolits or wax boolits are melting, you can cut a small cardboard circle and lay it in the bottom of the case, if you add powder it would be underneath the cardboard gas check.

Later i'd like to experiment with some cast glue boolits in my 71/84 rifle. I was thinking a fired and unsized shell, primed with a Federal 215, and loaded with 3 maybe 4 grains of Red Dot would give some decent velocity to such a big bullet traveling down a 31 inch barrel. Course after charging the case i'd have to stuff in some toilet paper down there to keep the powder at bay. With enough TP I probably wouldn't even need a cardboard shim to protect the base of the bullet. It's tricky to load bottlenecked style cases with wax or glue boolits, but doable providing you add enough filler.

delmar
02-27-2009, 07:08 PM
I really haven't had a lot of luck reviving this old thread, so perhaps Gunfreak25 and I can just talk among ourselves. Seems like the brass that is only use for firing plastic bullets could darn near be reloaded indefinatly, don't you think?

marlinman2008
02-27-2009, 07:20 PM
its been to my expierence that glue casted bullets lodge in the barrel too easily and they are a real pain to get out ive tried every kind of lube imaginable but its inebitable due to the heat of the primer melting the back of the bullets so i have always trimed them down with a knife till they will just fall down the barrel and put a point on them if in a lever action rifle i dont use exact science on this type of thing

marlinman2008
02-28-2009, 02:36 AM
If yall would like to see a glue stick being shot out of a .45 acp 1911 ammosmith did it on youtube but as you can see it was done at a smaller diameter than an actual bullet

delmar
03-09-2009, 05:21 PM
OK, here are some short videos of the procedure I ended up with.

http://radar.net/people/DelStacy24/p...from=/my-radar

http://radar.net/people/DelStacy24/p...from=/my-radar

http://radar.net/people/DelStacy24/p...from=/my-radar

http://radar.net/people/DelStacy24/p...from=/my-radar

http://radar.net/people/DelStacy24/p...from=/my-radar

Bert2368
03-09-2009, 06:55 PM
I used to shoot a lot of the "Excalibre" .44 SWC wax bullets out of my .44 mag blackhawk. These came 500 to the box, each box had six .44 special cases that had been modified so a shotgun primer could be seated by hand pressure, and later de-primed with a stick (I used my Lee Loader, just pushing the primers out by hand).

They were plenty accurate for shooting pop cans at 50' in the back yard, and the wax bullet hitting the cans was louder than the sound of the shot. The wax bullets usually penetrated one side of an aluminum can at that range. Their only drawback was that I had used up all the wax remover for my cross country skiis for cleaning my pistol after going through a few boxes of these!

I just dug out the last 150 of these and my Lee loader from the back of the gun room. I'm going to put them on "swappin and sellin" if anyone is interested...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=516559#post516559

delmar
03-14-2009, 01:08 PM
OK I finally got a video of me killing cans with my plastic bullets! I'm starting to think my dog has suicidal tendencies!
http://radar.net/people/DelStacy24/p...from=/my-radar

...and a couple photos
http://radar.net/people/DelStacy24/post/2865750

http://radar.net/people/DelStacy24/post/2865765

shickf3
03-15-2009, 09:26 AM
i have used wax bullets in my 38 and it really makes the gun very dirty does the glue ones do the same

delmar
03-15-2009, 09:31 AM
i have used wax bullets in my 38 and it really makes the gun very dirty does the glue ones do the same

I have only shot 25 or 30 of them, but it is an issue I'm watching out for.

delmar
04-02-2009, 09:26 PM
i have used wax bullets in my 38 and it really makes the gun very dirty does the glue ones do the same

The answer is yes, They do gunk up the barrel a bit, but I came up with a solution for that! I just fire up a few of my special rounds at the end of every shooting session.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=531763&postcount=19

JohndeFresno
04-04-2009, 12:20 PM
This is how I cast my GB's, I did this in my dorm room a few weeks back. This bullet is for my 1911 45 ACP, mold is a Lee Double Caivty RNFP 255gr lead bullet, glue cast they weigh 20grs.

1. Lube the mold cavity, I used vegatable oil applied with a tooth brush, very light coat this was all we had in our room.

2. With open spur plate shot the cavity full of glue.

3. Turn and put the mold in the freezer right away

4. Take the mold out after about a minute

5. Pop open the mold bullets fall right out because of the oil

6. Repeat.

7. As the mold is in the freezer, I took a utility knife and cut off base at the last lube band.

8. Leave them out for an hour on the country to harden up completely.

Case Prep.

1. Pick out 50 or so cases, mark the case head with a black marker to set them apart.

2. Drill out primer pockets to 1/8"

3. Prime Case, I am using Magnum Large Rifle Primers because we had 2 packs under the bench and no other reason to use them

4. Either hand seat the GB with finger pressure, or just set up your die in your press and seat them like a normal bullet.


This is my method, it works for me, when shooting a GB make sure there is a light coat of gun oil/lube so the GB doesnt get stuck in the barrel, happened to me with my dads Ruger, punched the bullet out without a problem, I have yet to have a problem with my 1911 and suspect I will not.

6 paces in my garage 10 shots
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/p1.jpg

Again these are not toys, I posted this picture a month or so ago when I first started playing with them, it is GRAPHIC/BLOODY, shots were first 5 to 6 yards, after animal was dead I tried point blank just to see GB did punch a hole in his side.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/possum.jpg

This was with just primers, no powder, 2 shots in the dome an it was lights out on this guy.

Tomorrow I will try a rifle bullet. I wish I had my Savage 340 30-30 in working condition right now would be perfect for this test. Has anyone tried to seat a gas check yet on a GB?

DK17HMR - With your permission, I would like to reprint this verbatim in the LeverGuns.com blogsite. OK with all?

Trey45
04-16-2009, 11:38 AM
Air these glue boolits air cooled or water dropped?

:P

delmar
04-16-2009, 06:33 PM
Air these glue boolits air cooled or water dropped?

:PI think I read that some people are putting the mold in the freezer for a short time.

grumman581
04-18-2009, 02:40 AM
When I shoot wax bullets in one of my .357mags, I add a bit of whatever powder I have handy... Lately, I've been using a scoop that I made from a .32 brass... With the wax alloy that I've been using, it ends up making it into a wax splatter after 20 ft or so... If my dogs are barking at deer on the other side of the fence at night and they don't shut up after I tell them, I shoot them with one of the wax rounds... Don't know if it makes it all the way out there to the back fence, but if it does, it's just wax droplets or wax powder by that point... They shut up and I go back to sleep...

delmar
04-18-2009, 04:29 AM
When I shoot wax bullets in one of my .357mags, I add a bit of whatever powder I have handy... Lately, I've been using a scoop that I made from a .32 brass... With the wax alloy that I've been using, it ends up making it into a wax splatter after 20 ft or so... If my dogs are barking at deer on the other side of the fence at night and they don't shut up after I tell them, I shoot them with one of the wax rounds... Don't know if it makes it all the way out there to the back fence, but if it does, it's just wax droplets or wax powder by that point... They shut up and I go back to sleep...

Wax blanks? Cool!

R.Clem
04-20-2009, 11:36 PM
Out at the range this morning my wife brought me a CCI Blazer case in 45 ACP, she knows all of her 45 ACP's use large primers, but this one had a small one, it was also boxer primed. figuring CCI was using something off the wall for the small diameter primer i didn't give it much thought. She brought it home with her.
I knocked the primer out of it and measured the pocket, then seated a standard small pistol primer in it, it is way below the base of the case, but I think it will work for these glooboolits. I really wouldn't want to reload one of those aluminum cases with powder, but for this type of project?

doug strong
07-26-2009, 06:04 PM
If you add just a tiny bit if powder, you can use some toilet paper rolled up lenghtwise, then placed into the case to protect the bullet base.


Does anyone know if these will work in a 30 inch barrel in a .40+ cal centerfire rifle? I imagine i'd have to use a tiny bit of powder at the very least to get it down such a long barrel.

Tom, are you thinking of this for your Gahendra?

Gunfreak25
07-26-2009, 08:58 PM
Hey Doug, didn't know you were a member here. When I posted that, it was back before I started reloading for my 71/84 I was in the process of restoring. I've lost interest in glue boolits since then though.

bohokii
07-27-2009, 08:25 PM
wow i'm not using my precious primers on gooballs

phaessler
12-06-2009, 08:35 PM
Cold weather is coming...anyone start yet?

hoosierlogger
12-06-2009, 09:47 PM
wow i'm not using my precious primers on gooballs

This may be a good use for old primers by using the match heads to "rebuild" primers as mentioned in a previous thread. Then the cost would only be a box of strike any where matches and a stick of glue.

truckmsl
12-07-2009, 03:29 PM
Well, looks like I just found a use for all those recycled primers recovered from years of de-priming the occasional goof. I just cast a bunch of hot glue .38 wadcutters from a Lee sixbanger, drilled the primer holes on some brass I wasn't using and shot em through my 6" gp100 in the garage. Great close up accuracy and a cheap way to practice revolver double action shooting! What fun!

ironcowboy
12-07-2009, 04:27 PM
This may be a good use for old primers by using the match heads to "rebuild" primers as mentioned in a previous thread. Then the cost would only be a box of strike any where matches and a stick of glue.


Care to go into detail???

hoosierlogger
12-07-2009, 05:25 PM
Care to go into detail???
See this thread.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=50383&highlight=improvised+munitions

Jim
12-09-2009, 05:00 AM
The white tip of a strike anywhere will generate enough fire to ignite a charge of powder but it doesn't come close to the brisance level required to push a gluelit down a barrel, nevermind shoot it 50 or 60 ft.
DK17HMR & I worked together on developing this procedure back in the late summer of '06 and I still load and shoot gluelits in my basement. The interest in this seemed to drop off so that's why I haven't posted on it lately.

hoosierlogger
12-09-2009, 08:11 AM
The white tip of a strike anywhere will generate enough fire to ignite a charge of powder but it doesn't come close to the brisance level required to push a gluelit down a barrel, nevermind shoot it 50 or 60 ft.
DK17HMR & I worked together on developing this procedure back in the late summer of '06 and I still load and shoot gluelits in my basement. The interest in this seemed to drop off so that's why I haven't posted on it lately.

Well darn it, I just thought it would be worth a try.

bohokii
12-09-2009, 03:56 PM
sounds like a good idea but right now primers are my most expensive component
bulseye is so cheap its almost free
and glue sticks cost more than my lead

delmar
12-09-2009, 07:11 PM
The white tip of a strike anywhere will generate enough fire to ignite a charge of powder but it doesn't come close to the brisance level required to push a gluelit down a barrel, nevermind shoot it 50 or 60 ft.
DK17HMR & I worked together on developing this procedure back in the late summer of '06 and I still load and shoot gluelits in my basement. The interest in this seemed to drop off so that's why I haven't posted on it lately.

I have fired glue stick bullets from my 45 with the primers I make, but I don't just use white tip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7nphPRG6JA&feature=related

delmar
12-09-2009, 07:20 PM
Well darn it, I just thought it would be worth a try.

It will work, but you have to pack the primer as full as you can.

hoosierlogger
12-09-2009, 08:27 PM
delmar I watched your video, do you have any more of the packed primer firing a glue boolit?

delmar
12-09-2009, 09:34 PM
delmar I watched your video, do you have any more of the packed primer firing a glue boolit?
No, I never filmed that. I did try it a few times, and, it does work, but the truth is I bought I cheap airsoft pistol and do most of my indoor shooting with that. It doesn't go bang, but it is the cheapest practice available.
I really haven't made any more primers for a while either, since I scored a couple thousand primmers for $30/1000.

hoosierlogger
12-09-2009, 10:03 PM
Thats cool bud, I do appreciate you taking the time to put the video of the primer stuffing up for us to watch. I enjoyed it, SWMBO thought you were nuts doing that, until I explained why you were doing it. She thought you were doing it because you didnt want to spend 4 cents on a primer. LOL

Marlinreloader
12-09-2009, 10:19 PM
This is one of my favorite ways to shoot in the winter. You can do it in the garage for practice.

Marlinreloader

delmar
12-10-2009, 10:21 PM
Thats cool bud, I do appreciate you taking the time to put the video of the primer stuffing up for us to watch. I enjoyed it, SWMBO thought you were nuts doing that, until I explained why you were doing it. She thought you were doing it because you didnt want to spend 4 cents on a primer. LOL

You laugh, but I really am just about that tight:mrgreen: Really it's about knowing that I can if, and when I have to.

hoosierlogger
12-10-2009, 11:07 PM
You laugh, but I really am just about that tight:mrgreen: Really it's about knowing that I can if, and when I have to.

Thats what I was trying to explain to her by telling her about the reasons behind the army improvised munitions handbook and why one would reuse a primer.

delmar
06-27-2010, 07:41 PM
With the wad protecting the GB slug I think we could pepper the load. Poor mans rubber bullet if you will.

Just the ticket for deer that wont stay out of the garden.I know this thread has been idle for a good peice of time but I got a bag of 12 ga wads for $3 and decided to try my hand at making glue slugs. I don't have a mold yet so I decided to try pumping the hot glue into the wad it's self. I started by cutting both ends off of an old 12 ga shell and placing a wad into it so that the wad would be in the right shape and sort of rigid. Then I just filled it up with hot glue and the first one turned out real nice. Unfortunately, with the glue gun on high, by the time I got the first first one cool enough to remove from the shell, the glue was so hot it melted my second wad faster than you can say worthless lump of goo!

After I turned the heat and waited for a few minutes I tried attempt 3. I t would have worked pretty well except that I removed the wad from the shell before it was cool enough to keep it's shape.

Attempt number 4 turned out pretty much exactly the same as number one.

Now I have a question. Do you think it is important to pry the glue-slug out of the wad before I load it in the shell or would you just load it as is?
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac214/deardelmar/glueslugs.jpg?t=1277680361

delmar
06-27-2010, 07:48 PM
Here is a photo of I glue-slug I peeled out of the wad. It fits back in with no trouble.

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=da9e8a4a53&view=att&th=1297bcaf3dd7258b&attid=0.0&disp=inline&zw

Lonerider
07-03-2010, 09:34 AM
I've been enjoying thread. What a great idea to get some practice and trigger time with my Guide Gun. I have been saving my used primers to try and make my own just for the heck of it.

Though it looks labor intensive and not very practical, the idea of saying....'because I can'...intrique's me.

I hope to try the gluetts and maybe turn the guide gun in to 'fly gun'

Lonerider

Lonerider
07-03-2010, 12:48 PM
Has any one try to use RTV or tile and bath caulking in place of hot glue, for glue boolits?

Lonerider

delmar
07-07-2010, 06:27 AM
Has any one try to use RTV or tile and bath caulking in place of hot glue, for glue boolits?

Lonerider

I have never heard of anyone trying that. It would cost a bit more, I think. Also you might play heck getting silicone caulk off your molds. I wouldn't be surprised if it would work great for my shotgun slugs though. It would take away the problem of having to watch out for melting the wad.

Franklin Zeman
07-10-2010, 08:56 AM
Starch powder may tend to leave a residue of burned stuff that could be hard and difficult to remove without water. Talc is a finely ground stone. Worry about bore wear ????? Barrel makers used powdered Teflon for button rifling back when. I know a .22 target shooter that used to dip the tips in motor oil before firing rimfires. He had some success. Need more thought on this.

DCP
07-10-2010, 05:54 PM
Wow

I really like this

What a good idea


I Have Used Hot Melt Glue For Years To Clean My Molds. I Fill The Mold With Glue To About 3/8 From Top, Insert Hex Drive Torx Bit. Then Fill Completely, Hold Hex Bit Straight To Let It Set Up, Open The Mold Cut Slits Lengthwise Apply 1000 Grit Polishing Not Grinding Compound, Put Back In The Mold Close Tight. Put Cordless Screw Driver To Hex End. With The Torx Bit Embedded In The Glue, I Turn It For Just A Few Seconds About 10 Revs Open Degrease To Very Very Shiny And Super Clean Moulds. Make A Second Glue Bullet, Coat Lightly With Moly Powder Do The Same, Then Turn Inside The Mold, Bullets Fall Out Super.
I Have Used Same Technique With Grinding Compound To Enlarge Mould That I Wanted To Open Just A Tad. Be Careful, Goes Quick.

mtgrs737
07-12-2010, 09:52 AM
I just posted a For Sale item in that section for a couple of medium FRB's of glue sticks if any of you guys are interested.

rwnielsen
07-25-2010, 02:17 AM
This is a great board.

I just signed up and I agree :grin:

Centaur 1
08-01-2010, 11:45 PM
I know this thread has been idle for a good peice of time but I got a bag of 12 ga wads for $3 and decided to try my hand at making glue slugs. I don't have a mold yet so I decided to try pumping the hot glue into the wad it's self. I started by cutting both ends off of an old 12 ga shell and placing a wad into it so that the wad would be in the right shape and sort of rigid. Then I just filled it up with hot glue and the first one turned out real nice. Unfortunately, with the glue gun on high, by the time I got the first first one cool enough to remove from the shell, the glue was so hot it melted my second wad faster than you can say worthless lump of goo!

After I turned the heat and waited for a few minutes I tried attempt 3. I t would have worked pretty well except that I removed the wad from the shell before it was cool enough to keep it's shape.

Attempt number 4 turned out pretty much exactly the same as number one.

Now I have a question. Do you think it is important to pry the glue-slug out of the wad before I load it in the shell or would you just load it as is?
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac214/deardelmar/glueslugs.jpg?t=1277680361

Have you fired these yet? I'm concerned about the hardness of the solid glue wad combo and how well it will pass through the choke. It wouldn't hurt the choke, but it could get lodged in a full choke.

This whole thread reminds me of my high school years. Me and a couple of friends had started shotshell reloading. We would load just a primer and a wad then fold the crimp into the shell. In the summer after dark, we'd hang out in the back yard with the outside porch lights on. The lights attracted mosquito's and moths, which in turn attracted lots of bats. We never even hit one bat, ever. I swear those little buggers could track the slow moving wad and move out of the way before they got hit. I'm not sure what we would have done if we ever hit one, but it was fun and we got to shoot. And we'd just go out on the lawn the following morning and pick up all the wads. Not only would we use the wads over and over for bat shooting, but we still loaded them with shot to shoot clay birds with.

delmar
08-05-2010, 06:54 PM
Have you fired these yet? I'm concerned about the hardness of the solid glue wad combo and how well it will pass through the choke. It wouldn't hurt the choke, but it could get lodged in a full choke.
Yes, I have shot a couple. I did pry them out of the wad first, then put them back in. I made about 5 out of glue and made another 20 out of wax. You can't reuse the wax, but it is cheap, cheap, cheap!

This whole thread reminds me of my high school years. Me and a couple of friends had started shotshell reloading. We would load just a primer and a wad then fold the crimp into the shell. In the summer after dark, we'd hang out in the back yard with the outside porch lights on. The lights attracted mosquito's and moths, which in turn attracted lots of bats. We never even hit one bat, ever. I swear those little buggers could track the slow moving wad and move out of the way before they got hit. I'm not sure what we would have done if we ever hit one, but it was fun and we got to shoot. And we'd just go out on the lawn the following morning and pick up all the wads. Not only would we use the wads over and over for bat shooting, but we still loaded them with shot to shoot clay birds with.

MakeMineA10mm
09-01-2010, 09:26 PM
Well I must admit thinking you guys were crazy for shooting hot glue boolits when I first read of this thread a few years ago.

But I recently ran into a dilema. I was asked to teach a class about firearms safety for people at work. After making a list of guns to demonstrate, I rounded up all my dummy cartridges, and found none for the 22 l.r. or 44 Magnum. Well, thats what the internet is for!! Found 22s, but still couldn't find 44s.

Then I remembered this thread, and remembered a conversation with dcp (he's a buddy of mine from waaaaay back) that he started doing glue boolits for shooting in his basement. Quick call to him, review of this thread, and <$10 investment at Harbor Freight, and I've got dummy rounds for the 44 that are just as good as store-bought!!

I'll get to use them again as I'm a hunter safety instructor in my state now, and these will work perfect in that venue as well. Just another way to use these I thought I'd share, and to thank you all for a great idea (even if not for what you intended)!

David2011
09-02-2010, 12:53 AM
Forgive me if this is a duplicate. The first post seems to be lost in cyberspace. I had used some Pam for Grilling last night. It gets the can really sticky. No kitchen cleaner seemed to affect it. I squirted a shot of Fast Orange on my hand and rubbed the can down. Effortlessly, the can was clean again. This Fast Orange had pumice in it but I wouldn't think a little pumice would hurt a mold if used gently. I've seen Fast Orange without pumice at an auto parts store. I think I would find the Fast Orange without pumice before using it on aluminum molds.

David

Arisaka99
09-05-2010, 01:01 PM
Can you make .22 gluelets?

DCP
09-05-2010, 03:01 PM
yes

If you have a 22 mold

I have 3 new 22 Bator molds. I am going to make some



Can you make .22 gluelets?

Ole
09-05-2010, 09:36 PM
I actually tried these today (44 round ball mold) and they seem like they are more accurate than the .44 speer plastic bullets.

:)

delmar
09-10-2010, 06:42 AM
I actually tried these today (44 round ball mold) and they seem like they are more accurate than the .44 speer plastic bullets.

:)

I was thinking a while back, that glue round balls would be cool for my cap and ball guns!

mtgrs737
09-10-2010, 12:04 PM
Glue shooters, I have two Medium flat rate boxes of 1" dia. x 3" long hot melt glue sticks I want to get rid of for the price of the shipping. $11 each

PM me if interested!

sha-ul
09-18-2010, 05:05 PM
Tom, are you thinking of this for your Gahendra?

Howdy Talbot!!!
do you think this might be a good way to get some trigger time in when the weather might not cooperate?

MbPb
09-29-2010, 12:28 PM
Hello fellow casters,

This is my first post here and being faily new to casting I can see I'm in the right place to expand my knowlege ten fold. This is a great forum and I have really enjoyed and learned alot in the past few days since finding y'all.

After reading this thread I'm chomping at the bits to do this. I'm stuck in OKC testing equipment and can't wait to get back home to do this. I'm thinking of trying the 158 gr mold for my wife 38 spl.

We have to drive 45 minutes to get to our gun club, so this will definitly be the ticket to our fun at the range anytime.

MB

JanZ
09-29-2010, 01:36 PM
During the winters we used to spend parts of the winter shooting targets in the garage, back then we used wax bullets and 38 special brass in out .357 pistols. I decided to see if my 92 would function the same but I really did not want to go through the mess of making, loading and cleaning up after wax bullets.

I looked up plastic bullets and yes they make them but I thought "Hell I can make those things" so after some experimentation I found that I could cast my own plastic slugs out of that hot glue plastic using some cleaned up once fired 9mm brass as the molds.

I opened up the primer hole with a #8 bit, cleaned up the primer pockets and lubed the cases with Armourall and shot them full of hot melt plastic glue. After cooling I need to warm the case slightly to be able to push the slug out of the case.

I found the slugs are slightly tapered from the inside case shape so I turn them over when I seat them in the primed case.

I shot about a dozen rounds today at 18' using a cardboard box with an old pillow in it.

I also shot a few rounds 4 times each to see how they held up and they seemed to do fine.

Now surprisingly these things pack more of a wallop than I thought they would, at 18' it punched clear through a 1/8" piece of Luan board and dented the drywall 3' behind it about 1/16", this being powered with a standard small pistol primer.

I was worried about barrel fouling being it is glue after all but I ran the nylon brush through the barrel a couple of times and then a couple of patches and there was no residue left in the bore. Fact is it's a lot cleaner shooting than wax.

leveraction
09-29-2010, 06:31 PM
That's pretty freakin cool. I had no idea you could do that.

jacpot
10-01-2010, 08:43 AM
glooblits?
gotta try this out for sure!

has anyone every tried to cast a glooblit with a BB in the bottom of the mold?
(for a tad bit more weight)

jacpot
10-01-2010, 07:38 PM
I dug out my old glue gun and as I was trying to figure what to use as a cast (didn't want to f-up my good molds) I discovered the gluesticks fit nice and snug into my 45LC cartridges, so I chopped off a couple pieces from the stick about 3/4" long, no melting or molding involved and stuffed into a regular 45LC cartridge with standard LP primer and shot through 6 layers of cardboard just fine. obviously it would be more powerful with a magnum primer or what, but it was kinda cool to see it punch through cardboard like a wad cutter.
Geez, gotta go to walmart and stock up on gluesticks now (grin) this could be fun - now to see what the Chrono says about it

JanZ
10-03-2010, 05:59 PM
I dug out my old glue gun and as I was trying to figure what to use as a cast (didn't want to f-up my good molds) I discovered the gluesticks fit nice and snug into my 45LC cartridges, so I chopped off a couple pieces from the stick about 3/4" long, no melting or molding involved and stuffed into a regular 45LC cartridge with standard LP primer and shot through 6 layers of cardboard just fine. obviously it would be more powerful with a magnum primer or what, but it was kinda cool to see it punch through cardboard like a wad cutter.
Geez, gotta go to walmart and stock up on gluesticks now (grin) this could be fun - now to see what the Chrono says about it

For a mold you could take a 45ACP case make sure it's nice and round and pop the primer out so you can push out the cooled glueblits, you might need to slightly warm the "Mold" to get the boolit out after casting, I use a little alcohol lamp for that.

Have fun and be careful, these suckers really travel with my 9MM and a small pistol primer with the larger primer I'll bet the really pack a wallop.

Arisaka99
10-03-2010, 07:23 PM
People could have fights with them like airsoft or paintball. ;) or is it too lethal??

JanZ
10-03-2010, 07:38 PM
Like I said in an earlier post these suckers pack more of a wallop than you'd think and at close range I'd bet they'd draw blood.

At 18 feet they went through 4 layers of cardboard, I'm still hoping to get a rat in the wood pile to stick around long enough to get a shot at one using one of these and I'll be it kills it.

Provided I can hit the little varmint.:lol: Most of the slow stupid ones have already succumbed to 22 CB caps

hoosierlogger
10-03-2010, 08:16 PM
Most of the slow stupid ones have already succumbed to 22 CB caps

Leave a bowl of lead based paint chips out for them. Or mix your dross with peanut butter for them to eat.:popcorn:

coopieclan
10-03-2010, 08:34 PM
.45 cal Hot Glue Sticks!

Wow... I like putting things where they don't belong.

This is wrong with a capital "R"

I am going to try that with .45 blanks in my 1858 Italian Remmy.

Arisaka99
10-04-2010, 04:38 PM
DAAAAAANNNNNNNGGGGG!!!!! Ready for war are you? ;P

uncle joe
10-04-2010, 05:00 PM
I, like JanZ have shot many wax boolits in 38 cases, this was in the day before you could get a hot glue gun at wally world for 2 bucks. We would prime the cases, sit the block of paraffin in front of a little electric heater to soften it up a little and just push the primed case down on the block... perfect wadcutters every time. these will rid your yard of pesky varmints quickly and non lethally. Plus they are loads of fun to shoot.
[smilie=w:[smilie=w:

Papa Jack
10-04-2010, 07:22 PM
What damage wil these cause to my Television screen ????? Can I set on the couch and blast the moron giving the evening news or the people in those stupid commercials ??????
I'll have to try this I guess, it may just be my way out of boredom when it's rainin and cold outside.

"PAPA JACK"

uncle joe
10-04-2010, 10:05 PM
What damage wil these cause to my Television screen ????? Can I set on the couch and blast the moron giving the evening news or the people in those stupid commercials ??????
I'll have to try this I guess, it may just be my way out of boredom when it's rainin and cold outside.

"PAPA JACK"

careful it'll bounce back and put your eye out.
:lol:

JanZ
10-06-2010, 05:23 PM
What damage wil these cause to my Television screen ????? Can I set on the couch and blast the moron giving the evening news or the people in those stupid commercials ??????
I'll have to try this I guess, it may just be my way out of boredom when it's rainin and cold outside.

"PAPA JACK"

With these you might end up getting a new TV

sha-ul
10-07-2010, 12:02 AM
I might suggest some 1" acrylic in front of your tv in that case, or better yet, go nerf ;)

pmeisel
10-08-2010, 08:51 PM
Who remembers the days when sports bars would have a drawing to see who got to throw a brick thru the TV on Monday Night Football while Howard Cosell was talking?

delmar
10-10-2010, 07:57 PM
.45 cal Hot Glue Sticks!

Wow... I like putting things where they don't belong.

This is wrong with a capital "R"

I am going to try that with .45 blanks in my 1858 Italian Remmy.I have done exactly that in my 1858. I percussion caps are not enough without adding some BP. the problem I had was when I shot my gluestick bollits would unseat a little and not let the cylinder rotate until you shoved them back again. I think a 454 glue ball might fit tight enough to work though.

BCHobo
10-18-2010, 01:41 PM
This may have already been covered, as this thread is very, very long, but here is how I make "glue slugs" for a 12 guage.

I take a trap load, and just cut the crimp off with a utility knife. Then I dump out the shot, and fill up the wad with hot glue.

Let sit to cure and then they are ready to shoot at bears, to dissuade them from eating your chickens.

They are very low recoil, low noise, but they sure will sting a bear! Accuracy is good to about 25 yards, and they won't penetrate the bear. They will dent plywood, though.:D

delmar
10-22-2010, 06:56 AM
This may have already been covered, as this thread is very, very long, but here is how I make "glue slugs" for a 12 guage.

I take a trap load, and just cut the crimp off with a utility knife. Then I dump out the shot, and fill up the wad with hot glue.

Let sit to cure and then they are ready to shoot at bears, to dissuade them from eating your chickens.

They are very low recoil, low noise, but they sure will sting a bear! Accuracy is good to about 25 yards, and they won't penetrate the bear. They will dent plywood, though.:D

I'm not sure I would waste a perfectly good store bought shell turning it into a glue slug, when you can do the same thing by reloading spent shells, but I guess you can use the shot for other projects that way.

Arisaka99
10-23-2010, 11:34 AM
So do you put powder inthe glue slug? Or is it just primer fired also?

tonyb
10-23-2010, 03:46 PM
So do you put powder inthe glue slug? Or is it just primer fired also?


Like he posted just dump the shot, should make the bear yelp!!

DCP
10-23-2010, 04:45 PM
Wow

Maybe its just me

But puting hot glue over a powder charge and a primer doesnt sound safe to me.

I will pass on this one





So do you put powder inthe glue slug? Or is it just primer fired also?




Like he posted just dump the shot, should make the bear yelp!!


__________________

badbob454
10-25-2010, 09:07 PM
sounds like it would work good to me the hot glue wouldnt be hot enough to set off the powder, but i would put the hot glue in the cup, and let it set a little ,before putting it in the shell so it wont stick to the shell and cause too much pressure . if thats possible

threewheels
10-31-2010, 08:29 PM
Has any one tryed just dumping a bunch of glue sticks in their bottom pore lead pot you would have lots of heat and lots of flow and when run dry i don't think it would bother the next pot of lead other than smoking a bit.

firefly1957
10-31-2010, 08:56 PM
Threewheels Glue sticks will burn if they get hot enough and I would hate cleaning the mess out of the pot.
I think if I was going to shoot at bears I would hot melt the shot together in the wad Bear tastes good after all.
I am not sure of your states line between game and vermin but when they are a nuisance vermin control may be safer than ticking off the wrong bear. And a freezer of meat is not a bad by product.

preparehandbook
11-02-2010, 02:48 PM
This thread is old but fascinating. Upon finding it I read every post.

I used to do bodygaurd and private soldier work, we always were on the lookout for training aids and techniques.

For shotguns we simply took a fired case, cut the crimp off, primed it, and seated a shot cup backwards so the petals act like a shuttlecock. Plenty accurate at short ranges, good for dogs, and small critter pests. WHile doing disarming drills I caught one of these on the forearm from a 12" pump gun at about 3" range, hurt a bit and it left a neat circular welt very much like a paintball does. As an aside, 20 gauge wads work in paintball guns for indoor practice.

I have used wax bullets for years, great for inddor practice as well as shooting oddball calibers (7.62x38r). I have tried rubber bullets but they were pricey and I'm a cheap SOB. We always drilled the cases out for shotgun primers, I seem to recall we used blazer cases for awhile because they were instantly recognizable so wouldn't get mixed in with our normal casings, and as a plus it gives a use for blazers which even as factory bought I found to be as useful as a paper mache bathtub.

When overseas we would reload the shotgun primers with matchheads, useing a blunted nail to tap out the firng pin dent, we layered the white tips in first then filled the cup with the red part. I learned the hard way not to have more than 6 or so match head white parts in a pile at once as they are prone to spontaneous combustion, I was several feet away from a mass made from 30 or so matchheads I had mushed up when suddenly they ignited making an impressive column of fire and smoke and a nasty burn in the table top.

Now I'm going to switch to hot glue, I have an old brass mold that casts one round ball and one conical (I presume for BP) This mold will now be my dedicated glue mold for my 1911.

delmar
11-04-2010, 04:51 PM
Wow

Maybe its just me

But puting hot glue over a powder charge and a primer doesnt sound safe to me.

I will pass on this one











__________________
If you just go back two pages, you can see the slugs I made by putting hot glue in 12 ga wads. Once you let them cool you can load them over powder.

DCP
11-04-2010, 05:14 PM
Yes this would be the safe way.



If you just go back two pages, you can see the slugs I made by putting hot glue in 12 ga wads. Once you let them cool you can load them over powder.

old turtle
11-04-2010, 05:23 PM
Damn! I have been wasting my time sniffing glue.

340six
11-04-2010, 07:26 PM
I was thinking about this as 30 years ago I had some lyman {i think rubber ones ya use just a primer with} and would shoot them inside the home till they were worn out.

DCP
12-11-2010, 04:48 PM
Good Job Jim




I wrote a photo essay on gluelits (http://fgsp.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/gluelits/).

Dannix
01-08-2011, 01:54 AM
I wrote a photo essay on gluelits (http://fgsp.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/gluelits/).
Nice.


What kind of grease are you using?
Are some gluestick brands recommended, and others to avoid?


Sorry if the above questions are already answered in the thread.

Omnivore
01-23-2011, 10:42 PM
I experimented with wax boolits some years ago. The practice goes way back, but I don't recall where I'd heard about it. I'd warm a paraffin canning wax block to make it more plastic, and simply push a primed 38 Special case into the wax to cut, size and seat the boolit simultaneously (you could probably do that with glue, too, if you have an arbor press, etc.). It worked great except that the low pressure resulted in primer setback in my revolver, and that often tied up the cylinder.

Using the case to form the slug, the wax doesn't need to be cast, and it's self lubricating. It'll go through a cardboard box too.

Never did try any powder, but it would likely have to be a very light charge of 3F or 4F black powder (smokeless burns very slow at low pressure) and that would mean a lot more gun cleaning.

BCHobo
01-28-2011, 01:35 AM
I'm not sure I would waste a perfectly good store bought shell turning it into a glue slug, when you can do the same thing by reloading spent shells, but I guess you can use the shot for other projects that way.

Yes, a good idea, I just don't reload shotshells at this point.


So do you put powder inthe glue slug? Or is it just primer fired also?

Just dump the shot and leave the wad in palce and pump in the glue


Like he posted just dump the shot, should make the bear yelp!!

They make them yelp!


Wow

Maybe its just me

But puting hot glue over a powder charge and a primer doesnt sound safe to me.

I will pass on this one
__________________

Not hot enough to do anything dangerous, but it's up to you.


sounds like it would work good to me the hot glue wouldnt be hot enough to set off the powder, but i would put the hot glue in the cup, and let it set a little ,before putting it in the shell so it wont stick to the shell and cause too much pressure . if thats possible

You could do that, too, but any glue "sticking" to the case is minimal, and since the glue load is so much lighter than the shot charge, pressure isn't an issue. Loads don't even really recoil, like shooting a .22


If you want a bit more "persuasion" you can pour it part way with glue, then add some pellets to increase the weight of the glue bullet and top it off with more glue. Tried that too, and the grizzlies took notice!

mnkyracer
02-01-2011, 02:24 AM
Just found this and have to say I will be trying this in my T/C (.45 Colt). Where I work, they use granulated hot melt for sealing packages. I am going to try to melt this in a potpurri (sp) electric pot. may not get enough into the mould this way, but worth a shot since its free. If not, gluegun, here I come.

fcvan
02-02-2011, 03:26 AM
After much deliberation I finally tried pouring some hot glue boolits. I swabbed the mold with a q-tip wetted with olive oil. I swabbed between each casting and had great results. I tried using the freezer to speed things up but found I had less wrinkles with a properly warmed mold block. at this point things seemed strangely familiar . . .

I cast with a bit of excess on the mold block top and cut the excess with a knife. I found that if I filled the cavity with the right amount i would get a very slight hollow base when cooled which required no trimming. What would normally be a 175 TC 40 cal (Lee, I like them a lot) became a 15 grain glueblit. After a while I began using a second mold, a 158 RF in 38 cal. Things began hopping after that. On to the fun!

I loaded the 40 cal TC glueblit into cases with flash holes enlarged to 1/8th inch. I shot 10 or so through my Glock 22C which did fairly well but the compensated barrel is not recommended for use with glueblits. Nothing in the barrel but powder residue but the ports likely grabbed the soft glueblit and reduced accuracy. These chronographed at 410 fps. Other than being darkened by powder residue the glueblits were no worse for the wear.

My Ruger Vaquero 38-40 also has a cylinder for 40 S&W which shot quite well although I didn't run them through the chronograph. Good fun. I pad lubed the 40s with olive oil on a paper towel. I forgot to pad lube the 38 glueblits and the first one, well, stuck like glue. Getting that out was fun. I then lubed the barrel with an oily cleaning brush which worked for 2 shots before another stuck. Pad lubing is the way to go but I think next time I will try the lube I use for black powder. I'm hooked, my brother is hooked and there isn't a tin can in the county safe from my trusty Vaquero loaded with glueblits! Frank

Jim
02-02-2011, 09:42 AM
Fun, ain't it?

I started this thread, but actually, it was dk17hmr who thought of this whole thing initially. THIS (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=13632) is where it was born. I just fell in behind him and started some serious R&D work on the idea.

Among many things about gluelits that I like is the flexibility. There's a number of ways to make 'em, load 'em and shoot 'em and there are very few "must/must not" limitations. And, aside from shooting AT someone with one, there's relatively little danger. That is, of course, unless you decide to push the limit of how much Bullseye you can put behind one. That might not be a good idea.

In the four years that this has been explored, I have acquired and gone through several different glue guns, several molds, some I bought new for this, several large bags of glue sticks and who knows how many hundreds of primers.

A lot of people jumped on the wagon when it first came by, but it seems to have trailed off quite a bit. I'm still shootin' gluelits!
:Fire:------------------------------------------------------------X-------------o

BigRix
05-12-2011, 11:53 AM
To add to this wonderful thread I tried casting a few hot glue bullets and decided to video the process.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy2ghV8wLcI

Should have a video of the firing of these up in a couple of days.

BigRix
05-15-2011, 05:42 PM
Here is a video of the firing of my new gluelits.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhESy_ZocfM

I ran these dry and that caused alot of leading, glueing?

When I ran the .38 New Police gluelits through my Official Police they stuck in the barrel after the fourth round and were a pain to remove and clean up.

Firing these same bullets through the Police Positive produced excellent results. I think this was do to a number of factors. Proper size gluelits for the gun, smaller case capacity, and shorter barrel length.

None of the cases had the primer hole enlarged and I had issues with the primers backing out causing the cylinder to lock up.

Jim
05-15-2011, 05:58 PM
BigRix,
If you read the tutorial and FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS, you won't have those problems.

Jethro44mag
05-16-2011, 05:32 PM
I made a dozen or so just by shoving the glue stick as far as possible into a 45acp case then trimming glue stick flush with the end of the case. Using a large pistol mag primer, and i drilled the flash hole out to .125". I lubed the gluelets with gun oil. They shoot good and have more power than I expected.

I shoot them out back in the reloading room while watching tv. :Fire:

Jim
05-17-2011, 09:17 AM
Jethro, the oil is the trick to keep the barrel from "leading". If you want a little more power, seat a large magnum rifle primer in your case and try that. It really delivers a punch! You have to put a bit more pressure on it to get it properly seated, but it can be done.

BigRix
05-17-2011, 03:25 PM
Ok Jim,

I read this tutorial.

http://fgsp.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/gluelits/

Is that the one you are referring to?

Although I am not casting round balls I used your method and so far so good.
The gluelits dropped right out of the canola oil lubed mold. They are curing over night and I should get some down range tonight.

I cast a few from my newly aquired H&G #50 wadcutter mold but I'm thinking that there will be too much barrel contact with such a long gluelit. I am considering cutting them in half.

I guess the reason I having such a problem with all this is because my first experience was to make some gluelits like Jethro44Mag's. I did not enlarge the primer holes, I did not lube the barrel, I did not use magnum primers. I put a little Honady One Shot on the stick to help push it in the case. Thats it. They surprised the hell out of me when they went through me cardboard box and out the other side and bounced of 3 walls inside me garage. I was only dissatisfied with the fact that I turned my 1911 into a single shot pistol. I thought I'll cast some up for my revolvers and then I will be golden.

So far, it's not working out so well.

I won't give up till I find out what works the best for my guns.

By the by I measured the cyl gap on my two revolvers while in battery. (trigger pulled, hammer down) Police Positive .002" Official Police .006" This might explain some of the problems I'm having with the OP.

Jim
05-17-2011, 05:57 PM
Ok Jim,

I read this tutorial.

http://fgsp.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/gluelits/

Is that the one you are referring to?
Yes.

Although I am not casting round balls I used your method and so far so good.
The gluelits dropped right out of the canola oil lubed mold. They are curing over night and I should get some down range tonight.

I cast a few from my newly aquired H&G #50 wadcutter mold but I'm thinking that there will be too much barrel contact with such a long gluelit. I am considering cutting them in half.
Lube the gluelit with a LIGHT coat of GREASE, push it ALL THE WAY into the bottom of the case and THEN prime the case.

I guess the reason I having such a problem with all this is because my first experience was to make some gluelits like Jethro44Mag's. I did not enlarge the primer holes, I did not lube the barrel, I did not use magnum primers. I put a little Honady One Shot on the stick to help push it in the case. Thats it. They surprised the hell out of me when they went through me cardboard box and out the other side and bounced of 3 walls inside me garage. I was only dissatisfied with the fact that I turned my 1911 into a single shot pistol.
There's no way these loads are going to cycle an automatic.

I thought I'll cast some up for my revolvers and then I will be golden.

So far, it's not working out so well.
My way is not THE way, it's what I found that works best. But I CAN tell you, my gluelits don't hang up in the barrel and they don't coat the barrel with glue.

I won't give up till I find out what works the best for my guns.

By the by I measured the cyl gap on my two revolvers while in battery. (trigger pulled, hammer down) Police Positive .002" Official Police .006" This might explain some of the problems I'm having with the OP.

Rix, please don't misunderstand me. Try it my way one time, exactly as I describe in the tutorial, and see how it works.

BigRix
05-17-2011, 10:34 PM
Thats the plan Jim. I just wanted to start over from scratch to make sure my casting wasn't causing issues. I felt the mold grow in my hand when I first cast them and was concerned that they were too large in diameter. I plan to lube and seat the gluelits all the way into the case and to run an oily patch down the barrel. I'll let you know how it all works out.

BigRix
05-30-2011, 01:46 PM
I think I've got it now. This video shows how I am casting and loading my gluelits and they are working great.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ANy39pHrDA

Babalooie
07-31-2011, 12:30 AM
I'm a new guy here and never heard of hot glue boolits, but it sounds exciting. I'm afraid I'm going to develop another addiction. 8-)

delmar
08-07-2011, 08:51 AM
I wrote a photo essay on gluelits (http://fgsp.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/gluelits/).

Jim the link does not work any more. Do you have the photo essay saved somewhere, or is it gone forever?

delmar
08-07-2011, 08:58 AM
I'm thinking of getting a couple of those $100 nagant revolvers and loading those funny cases with gluelits.

Mauser Rat
08-08-2011, 02:15 AM
I mistakenly showed this to an ex of mine and now I have to sleep with one eye open.........I don't want all that oil on my molds and I don't know if I will survive an early morning glue ambush!

Maybe just one Lee mold? It looks like a blast (pun intended) and I can think of a couple of purrrfect targets (pardon my spelling please :grin:)

Arisaka99
08-08-2011, 10:23 AM
hahaha, now you mention it, they might make purrrrfect targets lol ;)

Greebe
08-10-2011, 07:24 PM
I just saw the video today that Big Rix had on youtube. Then I searched here to see if the Gluelits had been talked about before. Pretty Cool idea.

Anyways I used an old Ideal .45 mold to injection mold a few gluelits. It went pretty well having the mold lightly oiled with olive oil.

I used my Kimber Custom in .45ACP. The gluelits are tight enough because of the inside taper of the .45ACP brass that I was able to load up all 6 in the magazine and cycle the slide normally and have them feed just fine.

Here is a new gluelit on the left and a 4 times fired one on the right. The one on the right was shot through drywall, into pine, through a plastic bin, off a concrete basement wall, through cardboard, and is as good as new other than being frosted looking and having some black powder residue on the base.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/GreebeDBS/S1120001.jpg

Here is one loaded up into a .45ACP:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/GreebeDBS/S1120003.jpg

Here is the previous gluelit after being fired through a 1/2" sheet of drywall. I had some left over after rocking my shop, so I cut them into 6x6 squares for testing.

Front:
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/GreebeDBS/S1120005.jpg

Back:
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/GreebeDBS/S1120006.jpg

These things are pretty impressive. I loaded mine up with a CCI 200 LR primer for a little extra ump. Seems to have worked, the extra ump that is.

First time today shooting them I set up large cardboard box in the basement filled with peanuts. (I figured these would be sufficient since others reported the bullets sometime never even leaving the barrel.) Well I was wrong. I shot six into the box ( 20" long), and then went to take a look. Well to my surprise they had gone all the way through and into a hard plastic bin behind it. Nothing inside was damaged, but that was a lot more force than I thought they would have. One even hit the pine shelving that the bin was sitting on and put a substantial dent in it.

That is when I started testing these little guys with drywall and so forth. Pretty fun stuff.

One question though. My gluelits are pretty sticky until I fired them a few times. Did you guys experience the same thing? I was wondering if it was the cheap glue sticks bought at Walmart, or if it was from using the olive oil for lubing the mold?

Anyways, great idea.

Take Care,
Greebe

mdr8088
11-16-2011, 09:00 PM
Has anyone perfected 12ga glue slugs? I've been working on them and have been playing around with unique, but getting some weird things...

trench
11-16-2011, 09:12 PM
Joe Zambone, originator of Mag Safe bullets, melted the lead cores out of jacketed handgun bullets, replaced the lead with epoxy (sometimes adding birdshot) and drove the resulting bullets to 2000 fps or so, in most calibers that are fired in revolvers, or locked breech autoloaders. His FastBall ammo was based upon FMJ bulllets, no lead pellets added, just lots of velocity. His .45 bullets weighed about 70 grs, and needed very high velocities in order to cycle the slide on a 1911

Shooter6br
11-19-2011, 05:19 PM
I use glue gun sticks in 45 ACP cases . I cut the sticks flush with case(Wadcutters) NO CASING NEEDED. Good only for 45 cal though.Best in revolver or a 45 acp that feeds them

mdr8088
12-26-2011, 10:36 PM
Here's what I've been working on.
http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXaGljYeicQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXaGljYeicQ)
http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrAt69Mngj4&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrAt69Mngj4&feature=related)

Grapeshot
12-27-2011, 02:57 PM
Anyone tried to make a glue boolit using a swage press and dies?

WilNsc
01-22-2012, 02:59 PM
I watched a video awhile back of a guy using these glue bullets for training inside a building. Pretty funny but interesting from a saving money and lead point of view.

MajorJim
01-22-2012, 05:46 PM
If you guys don't watch it, pretty soon you are going to have to complete a 4473 to buy a glue gun.

Interesting concept. Would this be the most effective round for marauding woodworkers?