Casting hot glue boolits [Archive]

woodman51jfk

03-21-2007, 10:07 AM

Hello G. Blessing,
As Master At Arms of the NAGS, National Asociation of Glue Shooters, formerly the Glue Shooters Society, allow me to attempt answering your simple question with an equaly simple answer:

Fun, fun, fun:Fire: ..............cheap, cheap, cheap:mrgreen: ............

We all like to shoot, as much as we can , and we all like to save as much money as we can. Shooting glooblits accomplishes both of these goals. Shooting a glooblit takes only a primer, case, and boolit formed of hot glue. These can be shot in the comfort of your den, basement or garage, ( actually anywhere SWMBO is OK with it ), and won't attract unwanted attention even in the backyard of your neighborhood. If you're unfortunate enough to live where you are driven indoors by any type of foul weather for extended periods of time, this offers a relief from cabin fever, needing the barest of supplies, and utilizing an old cardboard box for a targer. Since the inception of NAGS, I have loaded and shot inside my den my SBH, with just a Lee hand primer, and an old piece of carpet hung as a backstop, to enable reuse of all glooblits. Here in Central Texas, I can walk 20 feet out my back door to the end of my own personal 100 yard range, and shoot the real deal anytime I want, but it is still fun just to sit in my recliner and make the cats nervous[smilie=1: , ( would never actually hit one )..........................so G. Blessing, it's back to just the two main answers short form.....................fun, fun, fun, cheap, cheap, cheap............:drinks:

Ricochet

03-21-2007, 10:54 AM

Do remember that most of our primers are based on lead styphnate and also contain barium and antimony (that are about equally toxic with lead.) Shoot 'em only outdoors or with really good ventilation. There are lead-free and completely nontoxic (the residue, that is) primers now, but most of us aren't using them yet. Toxic smoke particles are most excellently absorbed through the lungs, as smokers of tobacco, crack and meth can attest.

woodman51jfk

03-21-2007, 11:17 AM

......absolutely correct sir, and a very important caveat to my dissertation. I too often assume that folks would have the foresight to have proper ventilation if popping caps, molding, painting, laquering, or anything else with dangerous vapors, indoors, and I appreciate your bringing it to the page...apologies for my omission............ and reminding me not to assume............

Jim

03-21-2007, 06:27 PM

Woodman,
A finer Master at Arms will not be found on this planet. I'm proud of you, Sir. You are an asset and positive representation of NAGS. I'll be sure to include this in my report to the president at our annual meeting.

Thanks again for your service and positive attitude!

Jim

Jim

03-21-2007, 06:30 PM

Gentlemen all,
Please forgive me for not getting the data posted promptly. I came home this afternoon to find that my dog and faithful companion of 6 years had been snake bit.:( I rushed him to the vet and he is going to be OK. It's been a rough day and I'm gonna hit the sack. Again, please forgive me. I WILL get the data posted.

Jim

Nueces

03-21-2007, 10:14 PM

Glad your pup is OK. And I'm completely enjoying this thread, it's very much in the spirit of the Bug Blaster mindset. "Why", was asked; "Joy", was replied. :drinks:

Onward, through the fog!

Mark

dk17hmr

03-21-2007, 11:57 PM

Gentlemen, as Co-founder of NAGS I have realized that no one has made a shotgun slug yet.

If I had the reloading equipment for it I would have to try some black powder with one of those Lee slugs you use a standard hual and wad with.

That could be very interesting...any takers on casting and loading them?

I have a 12 gauge that will work for this experiment.[smilie=1:

woodman51jfk

03-22-2007, 12:14 AM

........well Prez.....the thought did occur, but there's already rubber boolits fer scatterguns, and I ain't real sure just a primer would push a glooblit down that long tube.......I feel we must turn to the R&D section for more indepth studies.....and Jim, glad the hound'll be allright...had a black lab got rattler bit..vet said he couldn't do anything ( early 70's ).if he survived he'd be OK, nearly immune....colonel loved to bring us dead snakes after that..trophies I think....
...hay Nueces.......careful there..........you could give yourself away :roll: ..........there could be others here remember the 'ol Austin of the 70's & early 80's:mrgreen: O.W.'s always had such a pleasant atmosphere...........

dk17hmr

03-22-2007, 01:24 AM

With the wad protecting the GB slug I think we could pepper the load. Poor mans rubber bullet if you will.

Just the ticket for deer that wont stay out of the garden.

Jim

03-22-2007, 04:08 AM

Jones, my buddy, seems to be OK this AM. Limping, swolen and very tender to the touch, but breathing and gums are pink(vet said BIG indicator!).

12 gauge slug, huh, Doug? Pardon me, Mr. President. I forgot you told me first names only when we're at Sullivan's. OK, I guess I'm gonna hafta look into a 12 Ga. Lee Loader and a slug mold for the R&D Dept.. Mr. President, we'll be needing to nominate and elect a treasurer soon. I'm sure this is going to draw mass attention and the finances for research is going to flood in.
I believe a shot sleeve would suffice in protecting the barrel from the "base material" of the slug smearing onto the barrel wall. Also, I've been thinking about trying 4X fine high grade graphite as a tumble type lube. The bullet base material has a bit of a tacky surface to it when it first comes out of the mold. If R&D can develop a process whereby the dry lube is applied and will stick, that could open several avenues of exploration.
Concerning the options of "peppering" a slug with a bit of Unique or Clays or the like, I believe this would be totally dependant on being able to lube the slug good enough for a 28 or 30" ride. So far, R&D is still working on perfecting casting techniques and research for dry lubing is still in the planning stages.
The upside of the base material is, compared to lead, it's virtually weightless. A gluelit cast in a 158 gr. pistol bullet mold weighs in at 13 grains, less that 10%. Within reason, no pressure to speak of. The down side of this stuff is, it requires lubrication like nobody's business because of the softness and high friction factor. I have yet to fire a cast gluelit down the barrel. Chief of R&D feels that casting should be perfected before proceeding to the next step. One bridge at a time.

Mr. President, thank you for the priveledge of this position. Master at Arms, thank you, Sir, for effectively controlling the crowd.

woodman51jfk

03-22-2007, 09:42 AM

.....dropping the new gluelit directly into the graphite would seem to insure adhesion, makes me wonder if using something like Frankford Arsenal's Drop-Out spray on, or something similar, on the completed pills would work???........this is above my pay grade, definitely R&D territory........who it seems already needs a larger budget and staff to address a growing list of projects............:roll:

As far as secretary treasurer nominations, I submit Ricochet for the position.......he has the acumen for the position, as well as a keen eye for detail, and I feel he wouldn't let us stray into fiscal distress ( if we ever develop a fiscal being! ).

What say all?.............

dk17hmr

03-22-2007, 09:54 AM

I 2nd.

Lucky Joe

03-22-2007, 02:43 PM

This is a great board.

jballs918

03-22-2007, 04:33 PM

well me being one of the young guys on the board, i love R&D. but my thing is time. but one good thing is that the tools required for casting this are please easily taken with you. you guy talk about a lube. what about PAM cooking spray. we are dealing with low temps why not just stray the mold with pam and then that should work for lets say most likey 3 or 4 sets i would figure then just respray. after this is done one could then just drop then into a bowl of hot soapy water to clean then. now to the dry lube. i need to know if you guys are just using a primer to shot these. i have a gp100 that i may give a whirl to. i have a cheap idea for dry lube. what do you think about talc. or maybe even better corn strach. this sounds like a really good and fun way to cpeapy shot, but still get trigger time. maybe we can even make a 3 to 5 yard lague lol. well just some more fuel for the fire.

dale clawson

03-22-2007, 07:23 PM

You guys keep this up and I'll have to hunt up my glue gun. DALE

jballs918

03-23-2007, 12:11 AM

well i fired up the old glue gun tonight. i started with an old roundball mold and made a few. not to bad except the top of them were not filling out. not sure why. ok pam does work for this. but one thing i did notice was that it takes a few minute for it to cool. so keep this in mind as we do this. the over all shape was not to bad. i really think i need a better glue gun. im not sure if mine can heat up fast enough. ok so i went on to an old lee 38spl 158 swc. well this took a bit of practice to get some good ones. but i did. i only made 10 and got 3 good ones. im thinking that my gun has alot to do with this issue. recovery time. well i put them into the cases and cramped them down. now here is where im hosed i cant test fire anything as i live on an airforce base. they dont take to kindly to that. so i got 3 loaded and cramped no primer yet. i think this may actually turn out to be pretty cool

Jim

03-23-2007, 03:59 AM

I'll have some time off this weekend. Let me get this day behind me and I'll get some info up on the latest R&D.

How 'bout it, Ricochet? You up to taking the nomination as treasurer of NAGS? It's a very prestigious postion with absolutely no perks at all! Ahh, well, what th' hay. I'll send ya' some gluelits to test fire or sump'm.:roll:

Like jballs, The time I have to do R&D is limited. We ain't gonna perfect this thing overnight. As for ideas that might lend to this project, please, feel free to submit, regardless of how crazy you think they might be. Papa always said "Two heads are better than one, even if one IS empty!".[smilie=1:

Jballs, as for your problem getting a good cast going, I got that down. I'll post on that tonight(Friday) or early tomorrow AM.

Jim
:Fire:gluelits!---------------------------------X-------->

G. Blessing

03-23-2007, 04:19 AM

You guys keep this up and I'll have to hunt up my glue gun. DALE

yeah, me too!

This does indeed look to be fun! I'm in arural area so shootin' ain't no problem, but you hit the nail on the head about the weather; Being able to shoot somthin' like this in the basement when its -40f would be nice... .. or practicing my draw and shoot in the back yard. (been doin' that with full loads anyway... [smilie=1: )

Any probs with the glue leavin' a residue or anything in barrels? or in molds?

Any special glue your using?

do you need to lube them to shoot them?

:Fire:

Gary.

KevMT

03-23-2007, 09:36 PM

My son and I tried this idea out in the garage... sweet.

My son shot the group labeled T.man from across the garage (six paces). The other two were where I was playin "hopalong cassidy".

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/gakido_ninja/gloopsmall.jpg

jballs918

03-23-2007, 09:50 PM

kev please tell us what setup you used. i mean crimp no crimp lube no lube so on and so forth. inquiring minds want to know.

dk17hmr

03-23-2007, 11:47 PM

This is how I cast my GB's, I did this in my dorm room a few weeks back. This bullet is for my 1911 45 ACP, mold is a Lee Double Caivty RNFP 255gr lead bullet, glue cast they weigh 20grs.

1. Lube the mold cavity, I used vegatable oil applied with a tooth brush, very light coat this was all we had in our room.

2. With open spur plate shot the cavity full of glue.

3. Turn and put the mold in the freezer right away

4. Take the mold out after about a minute

5. Pop open the mold bullets fall right out because of the oil

6. Repeat.

7. As the mold is in the freezer, I took a utility knife and cut off base at the last lube band.

8. Leave them out for an hour on the country to harden up completely.

Case Prep.

1. Pick out 50 or so cases, mark the case head with a black marker to set them apart.

2. Drill out primer pockets to 1/8"

3. Prime Case, I am using Magnum Large Rifle Primers because we had 2 packs under the bench and no other reason to use them

4. Either hand seat the GB with finger pressure, or just set up your die in your press and seat them like a normal bullet.

This is my method, it works for me, when shooting a GB make sure there is a light coat of gun oil/lube so the GB doesnt get stuck in the barrel, happened to me with my dads Ruger, punched the bullet out without a problem, I have yet to have a problem with my 1911 and suspect I will not.

6 paces in my garage 10 shots
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/p1.jpg

Again these are not toys, I posted this picture a month or so ago when I first started playing with them, it is GRAPHIC/BLOODY, shots were first 5 to 6 yards, after animal was dead I tried point blank just to see GB did punch a hole in his side.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/possum.jpg

This was with just primers, no powder, 2 shots in the dome an it was lights out on this guy.

Tomorrow I will try a rifle bullet. I wish I had my Savage 340 30-30 in working condition right now would be perfect for this test. Has anyone tried to seat a gas check yet on a GB?

dk17hmr

03-24-2007, 01:15 AM

Well I couldnt wait for tomorrow to try to make rifle bullets, when I get an idea rolling around in my head when it is time to sleep I cant sleep, I need to know if it will work.

I cant test these out until I get a few small parts for my 30-30, I dont want to shoot them in my 30-06's to much $ in those.

My plan is tomorrow machine the primer pockets so I can use 209 shotgun primers. That, I think anyways, will give enough to push it out of the barrel with force.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/PlasticBullet30-30.jpg

It shall work!

G. Blessing

03-24-2007, 01:25 AM

Well, you got me hooked in Gents. I'm going to be trying to pick up a second .45 mold cheap, and diging out my Parents old high temp glue gun this weekend.

G.

KevMT

03-24-2007, 09:32 AM

kev please tell us what setup you used. i mean crimp no crimp lube no lube so on and so forth. inquiring minds want to know.

Good point,

I have a 41 mag so I had to cast my Gluelits. I coated my mold with spray graphite but that wasn't working too well. So now between each cast I swab the cavities with a light coat of "PAM" (applied with a Q-tip.)

Glueits were lubed with crisco but I think on my next try I will try tumble lubing them with a few drops of canola oil.

I found that the pistol primers I had on hand were not pushing the gluelit hard enough to reliably clear a 6 1/2" barrel. So I went to large rifle magnum primers and it works great when you seat the gluelits all the way down in the case so that they are firmly pressed abainst the case web (no crimp)

All female types in the house are now convinced that I am crazy.

Kev

KevMT

03-24-2007, 12:33 PM

I use a High temperature hot melt glue gun under the hypothesis that the glue might be stronger/harder (not sure if this is true).

Be forwarned, if you are casting gluelits with said high temperature glue gun and are too busy learing at Liv Tyler on Jay Leno to pay attention, you will hot glue the back of your hand. It burns like heck and leaves a dandy blister.

Be careful

Kev

KEv

dk17hmr

03-24-2007, 07:54 PM

I couldnt wait for the parts for my 30-30 to come in so I grabbed my brothers 336 out of the safe and tried a few. At first I couldnt get the round to chamber, primer was not seated into the case enough so I had to go back in and drill some more. It works now, accuracy was iffy and velocity was slow. I dont know if accuracy suffers because of the micro groove barrel on Zacs 336. You dont hear the primer pop all you hear is the GB hitting the cardboard.

I will have my parts for my Savage 340 this week and will get that back together with any luck it will shoot GB's good.

I did run one through my lee .309 sizer last night and crimped a gas check on the base, but I dont know we are talking about some money now...lol

Bullets are black because there are once fired, the only punched through one side of the box at 10 yards,
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/30-30plastic2.jpg

creepyrat

03-24-2007, 11:19 PM

so how about those slugs? lol

dk17hmr

03-25-2007, 12:08 AM

We have yet to have anyone step up and try it, as far as I know. I would but I dont not have the required equipment.

Buckshot

03-25-2007, 02:58 AM

..........You guys are having too much fun. How about if you dropped a BB in the nose of the mould and then added hot glue? A bit of added weight up front might aid upset due to inertia and also have a shuttle cock effect (potato in the sock type thing)?

...............Buckshot

Jim

03-25-2007, 07:42 AM

Mr. President,
Check the rifle gluelits after firing. If you notice any rifling marks on them, check your bore for smearing. A bore brush followed by a patch with Hoppe's will clean it up all spic and spam.

Creepyrat,
R&D is formulating a procedure for making 12 gauge gluelits. Right now, we're working on a lubing procedure for gluelits to be used in rifled bores. Give us time and we'll get there. Ya' gotta remember, we're opening doors that no one has ever been through.

Buckshot,
Your idea about a weight forward gluelit is also on the drawing board here at R&D. We're thinking that a spitzer point mold is going to be user friendly here as it would locate and keep centered a small round ball of some type. Again, we're working on all these ideas, but we're limited in our time and manpower resources.

By the way, Buckshot, how did we score a 4 star rating on this thread? If that came from you or one of the powers that be here at Cast Boolits, thank you! We appreciate your encouragement and support.

Finally, if anyone actually generates documented results through testing, PLEASE, notify us here at R&D. We can use all the help we can get. Thanks again to all for your participation.

Sincerely,

woodman51jfk

03-25-2007, 03:49 PM

....ineresting idea Buckshot..............poor VP R&D is geting run ragged:-? , and may hafta quit his "regular[smilie=1: " job to concentrate on NAGS:-D .........while we're all earegly awaiting Ricochet's response[smilie=1: to our nomination as Sec.Treas., I would like to nominate Buckshot as 1st Executive Vice President to our esteemed VP R&D chief....you too, sir, have the technical know-how and inquisitive:confused: nature that makes for premier R&D.....what say all???

.....do that four star mean we sumbody??????

Ricochet

03-25-2007, 08:08 PM

As far as secretary treasurer nominations, I submit Ricochet for the position.......he has the acumen for the position, as well as a keen eye for detail, and I feel he wouldn't let us stray into fiscal distress ( if we ever develop a fiscal being! ).
I'd missed this part. As for secretary, I can definitely type out a bunch of words. As a treasurer, I'm short of treasure. :-D

I think my wife has a hot glue gun around here somewhere. If she doesn't, I'm sure my artist kids have one lying around somewhere. I've got to give this a try!

As for fiscal responsibility, I notice that those blackened, once-fired gluelits look ready to go again. I'll bet these things are good for multiple trips down the pipe. 8-)

creepyrat

03-25-2007, 11:42 PM

i may pickup a slug mold in a few weeks as it has been on my mind anyways. if i get it ill send you a few doug.

Buckshot

03-26-2007, 03:33 AM

"By the way, Buckshot, how did we score a 4 star rating on this thread? If that came from you or one of the powers that be here at Cast Boolits, thank you! We appreciate your encouragement and support."

................Up at the top of the page for each individual thread there are a couple boxes. One is to "Rate This Thread". Anyone may go there and vote for the number of stars to put on a thread. It wasn't me, but someone who knew about it decided the thread rated the stars. I do to, I just didn't think about it!

What I need to know is that there doesn't appear to be an agreed upon official name for these semi translucent and somewhat flexible projectiles. Is it Gloolit, Gluelit, Glueblits or something else :-)

So far as R&D goes. Has anyone tried casting these things while the mould is sitting in a pan of chilled water, or does the glue set up too fast in the mould cavity that way?

..............Buckshot

Jim

03-26-2007, 03:49 AM

Has anyone tried casting these things while the mould is sitting in a pan of chilled water, or does the glue set up too fast in the mould cavity that way?

..............Buckshot[/QUOTE]

Good question, Buckshot!
It's a bit difficult to cast "gluelits" without actually holding the mold in your hand. The mold halves need to be held together pretty tight to keep the glue from spreading them apart. Also, if the mold is too cold, the glue sets up early, causing serious wrinkles and bubbles in the cast. Just as in casting lead, there's a window of temperature that needs to be maintained.

Jim

scottiemom

03-26-2007, 06:38 AM

I can't wait to try the gloobits, however I have a question about using PAM. When baking/cooking with PAM I notice that where there is spray but no food the PAM residue gets extremely tacky and is extremely difficult to get off the pot or baking sheet and once exposed to heat again is almost impossible to get off and it just gets worse as time goes on. would this same thing occur if you use it to cast the gloobits and if so, how much of a problem would it cause to equipment and such?

Just wondering.....

utk

03-26-2007, 07:37 AM

This process of "shooting glue" into the mold - isn´t that called "injection molding", rather than casting where the lead fills the mold by it´s own weight?

G. Blessing

03-26-2007, 02:41 PM

................ but someone who knew about it decided the thread rated the stars.
..............Buckshot

Guilty..... :o

Its just such a cool idea, and lots of good info here!
:Fire:

G.

Jim

03-26-2007, 03:07 PM

UTK,
You can call it injection molding, casting or just squirtin' glue in a mold, whatever suits you.

Scottie,
Not sure, but I think somebody already brought that up. If the mold is bought and used EXCLUSIVELY for making gluelits, I'm thinkin' it won't be a problem as there's no heat to deal with. HOWEVER, if you were to use the mold for lead and glue, now THAT might be a problem. 'Coarse, there's always carburetor cleaner.[smilie=1:

By the way, y'all, they're called GLUELITS. Got it? Who says? I just said it!:roll:

Sincerely,

woodman51jfk

03-26-2007, 06:30 PM

What I need to know is that there doesn't appear to be an agreed upon official name for these semi translucent and somewhat flexible projectiles. Is it Gloolit, Gluelit, Glueblits or something else :-)

So far as R&D goes. Has anyone tried casting these things while the mould is sitting in a pan of chilled water, or does the glue set up too fast in the mould cavity that way?

..............Buckshot

If I'm not mistaken, and I'm sure some of my fellow NAGS will let me know if I am:roll: ....I feel that all nomenclature is correct, as long as it leads to fun, fun, and fun, and cheap, cheap, and cheap...and is quite possibly a geographical dialection of descriptive terminology.............they can be ever what y'all are comfortable with:drinks: .......
and if you accept the nomination, I'm sure VP R&D will welcome the assist & information you glean from your efforts..........[smilie=1:

woodman51jfk

03-26-2007, 06:35 PM

...:oops:............my bad .....I just saw the R&D post..............they be GLUELITS........I stand corrected............[smilie=b:

jballs918

03-27-2007, 12:06 AM

with the pam i found that the temp was low enough that it didnt get sticky. basically spray, wipe off excess, and drop maybe 4 or 5 sets, then repeat. at teh end all you have to do is to wash it off with dishsoap. then treat them like a normal mold

Jim

03-27-2007, 03:45 AM

Jballs,
Now THAT'S the kind of mindset that's needed in R&D! Experiment, document and report. Did I mention we have some openings? The position is very lucrative![smilie=1:

scottiemom

03-27-2007, 06:10 AM

UTK,
Scottie,
Not sure, but I think somebody already brought that up. If the mold is bought and used EXCLUSIVELY for making gluelits, I'm thinkin' it won't be a problem as there's no heat to deal with. HOWEVER, if you were to use the mold for lead and glue, now THAT might be a problem. 'Coarse, there's always carburetor cleaner.[smilie=1:

By the way, y'all, they're called GLUELITS. Got it? Who says? I just said it!:roll:

Sincerely,

ok, gluelits they be!! thanks for the response on the PAM - just would have hated to see peoples molds ruined....I wonder if that carbuerator cleaner would work on my baking pans.....

jballs918

03-27-2007, 08:29 AM

dont think that would be so well. it seems that the pam only geets really sticky if it heated up, or burned off a pan. but please remember this is just from what i have done in the kitchen. one thing i did notice with one of my molds was a bit of gulling it that is what it is called. but i looked and i have a burr on my spure plate

Jim

03-27-2007, 03:46 PM

"But I looked and I have a burr on my spure plate"

A burr on the sprue plate!? That's terrible!! Now, ya' gotta throw the whole thing away! This is horrible!! :(

Send it to me and I'll decomm it for you.[smilie=1:

georgeld

09-11-2007, 08:00 PM

Interesting as hell gentlemen. Entertaining to read too.

Scottie: Yrs ago while trucking south Texas someone suggested spraying the face of the the truck with PAM to keep the Love Bugs from sticking. Seems that helped the bug problem somewhat. But, getting The PAM off the paint was much like divorcing Pam, and nearly as costly.

As a kid, we played with loading 12ga. Someone, possibly me, suggested instead of filling the cardboard hulls with plain parafin wax, that we should do a little R&D dropping glass marbles in the wax. Proper testing proved they WILL blow huge holes thru railroad tie fence posts at 20-30 feet.

I've wondered while reading this if it would be worth trying to just inject the glue directly into the lubed/Pam'd case, the after set up, inserting the primer, or putting a small cotton ball, or wad of somekind inside on top the primer. That would make WC's. Anyone interested in doing a little R&D with this? I'd offer my expert opinions but, don't own a glue gun and I'm the only one on this property.

Iv'e also been wondering what the cost of the glue is, not having ever used, or purchasing it.

Thank you, please carry on,

Slick Pilot

09-14-2007, 11:02 AM

I'm glad to have stumbled across this thread. I shall give this a try for use in the back yard. Sounds like I may be able to pop away with the old 30-40 without leaving the premises.

Think Felix Lube will work?

booneh

12-05-2007, 07:20 PM

you might try motor mica. very slick. workes well on shotgun wads.

booneh

GrizzLeeBear

12-06-2007, 07:19 AM

This gluelit thing is very interesting! Has anyone shot any out of a pistol at more than a few feet? If they would work, I think they would be great in a .38/.357 for Bullseye Pistol, but the would have to be accurate at 50 feet (and be able to go through a target). Would help save precious WW lead for things that need longer range / harder hitting.

kellyj00

12-06-2007, 07:35 AM

I've got 6 45acp bullets made of pykerete that we mixed and froze the afternoon of October 20 (only hours before my wedding, needed something to keep my best man and I from fretting the crowd too much)

We have yet to send them downrange, but we're planning on 4grains of titegroup.

Didn't want to hijack the glue bullet thread, just wanted to share that we've started something else.

Possum

12-06-2007, 11:10 AM

Do I have to ream out the flash holes in the brass?

manleyjt

12-06-2007, 02:40 PM

Kelly00

more info on how you froze the pykerete? It is an interesting subject. One of the lost building materials.

oldfart

12-06-2007, 03:59 PM

I 've been playing with this.
I glued some for 45, 44, and even 22.
tried a few with magnum primers and they make stray dogs and cats scoot across the yrd :)

Possum

12-06-2007, 07:48 PM

I have some glue sticks that are very large. Slightly less than a .45 colt case. How much clearance do you need between the primer and the glue bullet? These press down inside the casing about 1/4" from the bottom. Would make one heck of a wadcutter.

Let me measure a few and see what the deal is.

If it worked there would be no casting involved for these. Just cut and seat.:mrgreen:

Just got out of the reloading room:
Yep, after resizing the brass the gluecutter press fit into the case without having to go near the bottom of the case. It sits about 1/4" into the top of the brass. I will test tomorrow and report how the wadcutter works.

Anything else I need to know before I touch off a few?

Georgeld, you wouldn't need a glue gun if this works. Buy the sticks, get a knife and you are in business!

mtgrs737

12-06-2007, 11:43 PM

I have some hot glue sticks that are large and intended to be used in a glue pot if anyone is interested.

crossfireoops

12-07-2007, 12:12 AM

HMmmmmm....,

I almost ALWAYS blend up more Acra-glas than I really need, .....up to now always used it to firm up garden tool handles, and other repair details......not one drop's gone to waste.

After reading this, .....now, ...

HMmmmmm,....

GTC

crossfireoops

12-07-2007, 12:19 AM

On a DEAD serious note....elastic co-efficients of obturation can sneak right up on you.

......I wrote about the risks of loading to many golf balls into 1.75" ML artys.....moons ago.

This is the same arena.

Nonna' youze' blowed yerselves up, ....here?

GTC

kellyj00

12-07-2007, 08:38 AM

Kelly00

more info on how you froze the pykerete? It is an interesting subject. One of the lost building materials.

I'll create a write up on the whole process with pictures if there's interest. I don't think it fits the scope of this thread though.

I probably shouldn't have said anything here, I don't want to steal the thunder from the glue guys.

Possum

12-07-2007, 08:57 AM

[QUOTE=kellyj00;254369]I've got 6 45acp bullets made of pykerete that we mixed and froze.......QUOTE]

I'm just trying to figure out what you do with the frozen feathers...:confused:

:-D

Morgan Astorbilt

12-07-2007, 11:08 AM

Boy, You guys are really getting into this thing. I used to be content with just pressing a .38spl. case into a block of paraffin, the kind sold in super markets for making jelly. Didn't drill out the flash hole, was afraid I'd get them mixed up with regular cases.
I also used to shoot my 1911 with sheet rock nails that I'd wrapped with masking tape, to .45 dia.,leaving about 1/4" of the point sticking out. They used to stick into a sheet of plywood pretty well. I also fabricated an adapter out of two cases and a ball point pen ink tube, to shoot a single birdshot using primer power. Got this idea from those "Real powder charged lead bullet firing "Lugers", using .12MG of powder" they used to sell out of the back pages of magazines. Turned up it was a plastic pistol, and it used a cap gun cap to propel a single lead birdshot, or a BB, I don't remember which.
I used the BB adapter and the sheet rock nails as a young buck, to shoot targets with my 1911 (unregistered), in my living room in Brooklyn.[smilie=1:
Morgan

P.S. I'll go down to the shop and see if I can find the .45acp BB adapter, and post a photo.

manleyjt

12-07-2007, 11:14 AM

Kellyj00,

good plan I will try to watch for the posting. I had not seen much on pykerete since it was mentioned in a mechanics of materials class. It is interesting topic.

kellyj00

12-07-2007, 12:58 PM

manleyjt: do a search for it on youtube. That's where I get all the materials engineering I've ever needed.

Ghugly

12-07-2007, 05:56 PM

Morgan Astorbilt

12-07-2007, 07:05 PM

Found one of my .45acp BB adapters, and took a few photos. Not wanting to hijack this thread, I posted them, along with the details of how I made them, in a post called Indoor Pistol Practice, in the Special Projects forum.
Morgan

KevMT

12-07-2007, 10:44 PM

Do I have to ream out the flash holes in the brass?

In a revolver drilling out the flash holes is a nessesity. Probably doesn't hurt with other platforms as well.

Additional info on hot glue bullets can be found by doing a search on this forum for "Gluelits"

For me it also works best in a revolver to push the gluelit ALL THE WAY down in the case.

Kev

mauser1959

12-08-2007, 01:54 AM

OK, this is a bit off topic , but how far off is this from frangilble bullets. It sounds like a good place to start , especially since everyone has been messing with a matrix that would hold the metal powder in place. And it would have the advantage of not being destroyed when to much pressure was put onto the crimp groove when reloading. I know that your discussion has given me some pretty good ideas.

BAGTIC

12-08-2007, 09:58 PM

How do the gluelits behave on impact. Shatter" Splatter? Expand?

Would they kill tree squirrels humanely? Being so light the danger space from overhead firing should be considerably reduced.

KevMT

12-09-2007, 08:53 AM

How do the gluelits behave on impact. Shatter" Splatter? Expand?

Would they kill tree squirrels humanely? Being so light the danger space from overhead firing should be considerably reduced.

From distances of 10 yards or less I would guess that they would kill bunnies and squirrels. One forum member killed a possum with them by shooting it in the head. Accuracy and the lack of mass in the bullet would limit the range out of a handgun. Because the projectile is soft you will likely bludgeon the animal to death rather than killing it with penetration. Personally I feel that a 22 or 22 short offers little danger from the projectile coming down from overhead shooting because the bullet lacks any real mass.

On contact with hard surfaces the gluelit either rebounds, with considerable authority, or shatters. However they easily penetrate a couple of layers of corrogated cardboard at 7 yards.

Kev

Possum

12-09-2007, 11:02 AM

Shot some yesterday out of a 45 Blackhawk. The casings did not have the flash hole drilled out. The primers backed out and hung the cylinder up. If I drill the flash holes to 1/8 " will that stop the primer body from backing out? By the way, they penetrated a cardboard box and made a good indentation in the back of the box.

trickyasafox

12-09-2007, 01:19 PM

hmmm this could be great pest control for really close varmints that get into our garage. can't shoot em cause you don't want to ruin the floor but some of em beat our cats up pretty bad.

Ricochet

12-09-2007, 01:37 PM

Personally I feel that a 22 or 22 short offers little danger from the projectile coming down from overhead shooting because the bullet lacks any real mass.
I grew up reading those .22 box flaps that said: "Danger! Range 1 mile. Be careful." I'm more concerned about shooting up at an angle than straight up, as the bullet still has forward velocity when it comes down. Shooting up in trees with a .22 has always seemed risky to me, unless you're in one of the increasingly rare areas with vast, unpopulated terrain.

Saint

12-16-2007, 09:11 AM

I grew up reading those .22 box flaps that said: "Danger! Range 1 mile. Be careful." I'm more concerned about shooting up at an angle than straight up, as the bullet still has forward velocity when it comes down. Shooting up in trees with a .22 has always seemed risky to me, unless you're in one of the increasingly rare areas with vast, unpopulated terrain.

Just a note on that. I do not know exact numbers but if you fire a .22 straight up at one point the bullet will come to a complete stop and start falling back down. When a bullet is fired from a rifle it is moving beyond its terminal velocity (The speed at which an object in free fall will not go any faster). Terminal velocity is based on mass therefore for something the size of a .22 bullet it's mass will be relatively low. The bullet may leave the barrel at near 2000 fps but once it starts falling back down it no longer is being acted upon by the force of the powder charge, and the only thing moving the bullet at this point will be gravity. I would imagine that being hit by a .22 bullet in free fall at it's terminal velocity would not feel very good but I would doubt that it would be enough to even render a person unconscious. Granted there are other factors involved and a larger bullet could have the potential to be lethal. There are known cases of deaths from bullets fired into the air as well. If anybody really wants it I can get some supporting info for this if I.
"PLEASE DO NOT TEST THIS, AS I SAID PEOPLE HAVE DIED FROM BULLETS FIRED IN THE AIR AND MY ASSUMPTION IS BASED ON A VERY SMALL BULLET"

Ricochet

12-16-2007, 12:14 PM

Firing at an angle below vertical, bullets don't come down at terminal velocity. They still have significant forward velocity. The vector result is a speed higher than terminal velocity in free fall. The slowest it can get is when it's lost all forward velocity and is falling straight down at terminal velocity. (This is all in air, forget the theoretical stuff in a vacuum.)

Several years ago, around this season, I was sitting at my computer yakking as I am now, when to my left at the window I heard a loud WHACK as though someone had hit the brick just below the windowsill with a hammer. Best I could tell, a stray bullet (most likely fired from a car window by a drunken yahoo on The Volunteer Parkway a mile and a half away) had come down here. From the sound of it, it would've done a lot of damage had it connected.

I think it's generally irresponsible to shoot a rifle or pistol at a target up in a tree. I use shotguns for that.

Saint

12-17-2007, 01:46 AM

Agreed completely. This info was based on my physics training and the assumption that the bullet is being shot perfectly straight up which is nearly impossible as the bullet will always have some kind of an arc. Did not want to make it seem like I was disagreeing I just thought it was some fun theoretical science stuff. Anybody who is irresponsible enough to be shooting into the air near a populated are has no business owning a firearm.

Back on topic though. I managed to cast up some pretty good gluelits with a .454 and a .50 RB mould but unfortunately muzzleloader primers do not have the necessary power to get the gluelit down even my c&b revolver barrel so if anybody is thinking of trying this with a muzzleloader it probably wont work.

Ricochet

12-17-2007, 07:38 AM

Probably need a teeny bit of powder for that. I suspect that could be the case for any revolver, with the gas leaking out of the cylinder gap.

Saint

12-17-2007, 08:27 PM

I have considered that but firing off even primers in an apartment is pushing what the neighbors will tolerate. Probably just have to load up my guns and head to the range anyway. I have not been shooting in months and I am having withdraw symptoms. I am just not thrilled with the idea of riding my motorcycle in freezing weather. When you ride in the winter the first body part that freezes is the last part you want frozen.

Ricochet

12-18-2007, 02:07 PM

Get an air gun.

I've got no sympathy about the cold motorcycling. I used to ride my Harley and bicycle in all sorts of weather.

Steve in TN

12-18-2007, 08:12 PM

Hey guys, I'm a newbe to this site. Been casting about 12 years and now very glad to know that there others with this illnes, But glue boolits? I've shot a lot of paraffin boolits in 38 using a mag primer. How is a glue boolit better? Steve in TN

trickyasafox

12-19-2007, 10:36 AM

Steve- I think its because they are reusable, and they are the actual bullet profile. . .but I haven't tried this yet. Looks fun as all get out though!

tangofiftyone

12-19-2007, 01:15 PM

Ok, I read the whole thread yesterday and just had to try it.
40 s&w was the only empty case I had.
I put some hi-temp hot glue in it, even held the case with the hot glue in it upside down while cooling to get a rounded point on it.
Primed it, and put it in my Sig P229. Fired it at 2 cardboard boxes one inside the other.

I'm Hooked!!!
It shot right through 2 layers of cardboard and lodged in the 3rd.
I recovered the gluelit and did it again. Wow that was fun!!
I did get a few questions from the wife as to why I was shooting in the dining room.

I need a mold to make more. I need them to be a little tighter fit in the case.
I don't have a lead casting mold yet (on my list of things to get)
Has anyone made a gluelit mold out of plaster or something?
I think that is what I'm going to have to try next.

~Tango

Captain Midnight

12-20-2007, 09:18 AM

FrangibleBullets.Com can supply non-toxic primers in SP, LP, LR, SR. No shotgun primers available in non-toxic. They are expensive, $3.10 per hundred $31.00 per thousand plus UPS ground. Email and I'll get back to you. Rodney@FrangibleBullets.Com
Captain

KevMT

12-20-2007, 06:33 PM

How is a glue boolit better? Steve in TN

Steve,

I use gluelits for "draw and fire" or "acquire and fire" exercises with a SA revolver in my garage. For example, I attempt to draw and score a chest hit on a life size target from across the garage (7 yards) in less than a second. It is marginally safer than live ammo ( although I'm sure it will hurt like hell if I ever hit myself with one) and I can re-use the projectiles that are caught in my gluelit trap.

It's not unlike the use of wax bullets by cowboy action shooters except that in the case of wax bullets the projectiles can not be reused.

The fact that I can simply grab a box and head to the garage on a whim, rather than head to the range where I am sure to run afoul of some safety nanny, keeps things fun and easy.

Kev

WBH

12-21-2007, 10:02 AM

After reading this post I was intrigued. I had shot .38 cal plastic "brass" and bullets 30 years ago in my basement range................but "gluebits" that sounded like fun.
SO, I "cast" up a six-pack and tried them in my SA .45 Colt clone. What Fun.
The magnum primers with the factory flash hole were actually too powerful for my needs, so I switched to the Rem std LP primer. I still penetrated 4 layers of dense corregated board. I used a .45 cal maxi mould I had laying around the shop that I got in trade and never used. Gluebits dropped from the mould at .453 and weigh 20gr exactly.
I will add that the cylinder/barrel gap on this revolver is VERY tight, so minimal if any pressure is lost at the gap. Probably why I can use a std primer.
This is going to be fun. I might even turn my "73s into gallery guns for basement and rat shooting.

Thanks for the thread.

44 WCF

12-21-2007, 06:10 PM

I Have Used Hot Melt Glue For Years To Clean My Molds. I Fill The Mold With Glue To About 3/8 From Top, Insert Hex Drive Torx Bit. Then Fill Completely, Hold Hex Bit Straight To Let It Set Up, Open The Mold Cut Slits Lengthwise Apply 1000 Grit Polishing Not Grinding Compound, Put Back In The Mold Close Tight. Put Cordless Screw Driver To Hex End. With The Torx Bit Embedded In The Glue, I Turn It For Just A Few Seconds About 10 Revs Open Degrease To Very Very Shiny And Super Clean Moulds. Make A Second Glue Bullet, Coat Lightly With Moly Powder Do The Same, Then Turn Inside The Mold, Bullets Fall Out Super.
I Have Used Same Technique With Grinding Compound To Enlarge Mould That I Wanted To Open Just A Tad. Be Careful, Goes Quick.

mroliver77

12-21-2007, 09:51 PM

Hmmm, I gotta try this. I have shot waxlets and rublets but never a gloolit. I have some rubber seals ( caps? ) (.360) that look as though they could be the seal from a hypodermic ram. Much more solid but too flimsy to shoot well. Mebbe fill them with hot glue? The kid and I used to shoot her NEF .223 with a primer driven lead .22 pellet. Drilled flash hole and standard primers, shot very well at 30 feet and would penetrate a small magazine. The hammer falling made more noise than the muzzle blast. I tried a grain of bullseye and it did not fire the powder. I assumed lack of resistance was the cause of that failure. With a very light gluelet I bet one would have the same problem. I do have some blank powder now.................
One other thought " and I think it was mentioned" is to use a filler with the glue to give it some body (mass?) J

RU shooter

12-24-2007, 10:18 AM

I have been keeping up with this thread for a while now and just had to give it a try this morning I had an old lee 160 gr TL mold in 31 cal. and cast up some gluits and came out perfectly they weighted in at a svelt 12.5 grs! I had the 03A3 standing there so that was my test bed. drilled out a primer hole to 7/32 and lubed with balistol oil . primer was a CCI regular LR pushed the gluit into the neck . Now the moment of truth!!!!!!!! Puffffff!:( my little gluit never made it half way down the tube! so I added .5 gr of red dot and it worked well and still very quiet. But that kinda defeats the purpose of this whole thing . Whats size must I drill out the primer hole to accept a shot shell primer?
Next step is to cut the base of the bullet shorter and to trim the nose off some to make it shorter and less weight in hopes it will atleast exit the barrel. Any other ideas from the Gluit wizards.

Lucky Joe

12-24-2007, 01:24 PM

I think pushing a Glulit down such a long barrel is asking a lot from a primer. I use them in my .357 revolvers lubed with a touch of Pam and they go right along. Sure keeps the cats in the barn and not around the house. Also that oil may be a bit heavy give the Pam a try, you don't need too much I use it as mould release too.

georgeld

12-24-2007, 09:56 PM

Without looking thru the full thread, to keep from repeats. IF so, I apologize.

In the late 50's a bunch of us kids loaded 12ga with a blk pwdr looking white powder. Don't know where the idea came from but, we cut the ends off paper hulls, filled with melted parafin and dropped one or two glass marbles in it. They'd blow big holes thru tie fence posts. make a splash way out in the lake and kick up the ducks a a few hundred yards to make them flyover so we could get some shooting. Wonder what the Feds would say about that now days??

When blowing up water filled milk jugs one time I found either a golf ball, or tennis ball and set it on top instead of a lid. Wasn't any ball, nore parts around after shooting and looking for them. standing there a bit wondering why not. a heavy thump fairly close sounded. It was the ball coming back down from way the hell up there. That was before they were dyed green and other colors. Bet it would be fun to see if they'd go out of site with bright colors available now.

Last week I was in need of fireforming a bit over 300 5.7 case's necked down to .17's. Didn't have any bullseye, so used 3gr of the fine ball powder the 5.7's are loaded with as powder. Filled to the max with corn meal, then topped off to seal with soft parraffin pressed in hard packed after learning how hard and tedious it is to stuff the tiny holes with TP. Wax don't take near as long.

After shooting some 15' across the shop at the brick wall a mess was forming. Decided I didn't need that. So set up some cardboard at 10ft and shot thru it and still cleaned the loose stuff off the dirt floor and making it dusty.
Ended up laying a piece of steel plate on the floor and richocheting it against the cardboard to catch the splatters. After about 250 were fired that way there was a 3" high foot long etching nearly thru the cardboard. Proof it's still got more than enough power to raise a welt, or cut skin if a person was unlucky enough to get hit with it. Wasn't anything I could tell flying off in the air with a free flying shot across the shop though. So doubt they'd be much good at stinging stray cats. Have all the brass formed now, so am done with it.
Quantity of wax wasn't much either, maybe the size of a .22 LR bullet.

IT did do a decent job of fireforming those tiny case's, as was intended.

Great thread, have enjoyed reading the last three pages again tonight.
I've got some of those plastic/rubber .38's, just over a box full. Tried them inside an old building with white walls. They will leave a black mark. Great point and shoot pistol practice with the wheelguns though. IF the rooms enclosed it makes it easier to find the rubber bullets. I don't have a glue gun, might check into getting one someday IF there's ever any left over cash.

Merry Christmas to all of you this fine quiet Christmas Eve.

George

scrat

12-27-2007, 10:39 PM

ok before i go out making glue bullets. how loud are these things to shoot especially indoors

WBH

12-28-2007, 09:58 AM

As I mentioned before, I switched to a LR from a Mag LR due to un-necessary penetration and noise. The reg primer is like a kid's large "cap pistol" going off. Not even loud enough to make the dog run and hide. I found that wearing ear protection wasn't needed.

freedom475

01-05-2008, 12:11 AM

After reading this I had to try it...Took my RCBS 400gr 475 mould and gave it a generous coating of Frankford drop-out and filled the cav with hot glu with the spure plate open by pushing the glue stic and not using the trigger....when it cooled I found that it had glued my mould together.....pried it open and pried the now grey boolit out.Was now a little afraid to try it again but figure oh well. I filled the cav again without preping the mould with anything and this boolit just fell out almost clear.made 5 total,I cut them all off at the front of the last lube groove.

Bored out the flash holes to 1/8 on 5 cases and loaded them with Fed 215's, lubed the glublets with gun oil and loaded them in the FA 475 with 6inch barrel...Wow they had a lot of power and were very accurate (1 cal, sized hole for 5 shots 8in.low) at 7yrds, but the primers backed out and tied up the gun. Tried it again with 300LP primers and that was a lot better and the primers stayed put.

Chrono of the 2 loads went like this:Fed 215's=431,405,434,444,431fps.....CCI300's=204,196, 141,226,237fps

The 215's will shoot through a lot of cardboard and kithen cabinets(missed the wadded sheet that was in the box with 1).......needless to say SWMBO forbid any futher indoor testing......

Cleaned up the mould with acsetone(mostly to get all the Drop-Out from the vent lines) smoked the mould with a lighter and it cast WW just as good as it ever did. No need to get a special mould just to try this.
and its great fun.

Thanks guys for starting this thread.

Freedom475

Blammer

01-05-2008, 08:08 PM

hmm, glue boolits, them hard plastic then plaster, heck maybe someone will get a wild streak in em and try lead! wouldn't that be a hoot! a lead bullet, who whoulda thunk! lol

Biathlon

01-07-2008, 10:04 AM

Long time reader, first time poster.

Gloolits, what a novel idea, I checked the hot glue sticks at work they measure .452" in diameter. Perfect for my 45, just cut to length. As for other uses for gloo in shootin, I have been filling tennis balls with glue to shoot out of my WW1 Enfield with the cup grenade launcher. I use about 3 grains of Unique, the ball will go about 150 yards, my first attempt, I lost the tennis ball at around 450 yards, too much powder! If I do not fill the balls with glue, there is a flame hole cut in the tennis ball for the first shot. What fun at the range with bowling pins at 100 yards!

JFriis

02-11-2008, 10:26 AM

A post I made on another site I visit:

i36.photobucket.com/albums/e30/Friiguy/untitled.jpg

I recently read a thread on castboolits about glue boolits as they call them, and figured I would give it a shot.
So i get out the hot glue gun and my recently acquired bullet molds and set to work.

First I cleaned out all the residue and grease from the previous owners casting experiments.
Then I Started pushing as much hot glue into the mold. I found that if you let the newly formed gluelit cool too long it would stick to the mold something fierce and if not cooled enough, the center of the gluelit would become hollow.
After making a few of these, I stuck one into a freshly primed case and loaded her up into my 1911.

Accuracy was amazing at 15'. It shot to POA and though I didnt shoot for groups, it probably will get around an 1.5" or 2" no problem. The glue boolit also went through the IDPA cardboard target and onward for some ways. I fired 2 rounds (it was dark) and was able to recover one (the darker looking one in the picture) and I plan to shoot it again and again. No Glue residue in the chamber or barrel.

Cost of this experiment?
10 primers and about .25 in glue.

[BD]

miestro_jerry

02-11-2008, 11:24 AM

This sounds interesting, I do not lack space for shooting because of my farm, but my brother lives in the suburbs and can only shoot at the range or in his basement.

I would like to see or hear more about this method from any one out there.

Jerry

calsite

02-11-2008, 06:10 PM

I used to shoot parafin bullets, just using a primer and pushing the sized case over a piece of parafin. shot O.K. out to about to 10-12 feet. How are hot glue bullets in your bore?

youngun

02-11-2008, 07:46 PM

Just goofy enough to peak my interest. I have a glue gun. I have moulds. I have cases and primers. I even have a pistol! Dang, have to go buy a cardboard box. Maybe U-Haul?

ktw

02-11-2008, 10:30 PM

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/dk17hmr/30-30plastic2.jpg

This one catches my interest as something to the scare the red squirrels off the birdfeeders.... Will report back when I get a chance to test it out.

-ktw

JFriis

02-12-2008, 07:17 AM

I used to shoot parafin bullets, just using a primer and pushing the sized case over a piece of parafin. shot O.K. out to about to 10-12 feet. How are hot glue bullets in your bore?

I was shooting accurately to about 15' feet fairly easily last night. I am sure they will shoot further, I just need a good chance to relly try it out.

My bore has no signs of glueing.

racepres

02-22-2008, 06:00 PM

Quick note: The other day a friend gave me some Blazers all fired! Never even gave 'em a thought before.. but not wanting to simply "recycle" them.. I resized a couple.. no decapper, then hydraulic'ed the primers out using the "pusher" for my lee boolit sizer. Decided to get rid of the Berdan primer "post", ended up on the crude!!! Drove the sucker out w/ a punch, right into the case. Now says I, whatta big primer flash hole we have!! Since I do Not like to enlarge the flash holes on "good" brass, I try these suckers w/ gloolits!!! This is a pretty good way to go for my primer powered loads.. and I don't have to 1] resize the things ever again... and 2] Wreck my "good" brass by enlarging flash holes!! Just sumpin a bored HickerBilly done.. and shared w/ you.. MV

Buckshot

02-22-2008, 10:27 PM

................Sometime back last year I'd reported seeing "45 Caliber" hot glue sticks at Harbor Freight. Last time in I picked up a package of them. They're marked .450". The bag I got had 25 sticks 4" long for $2.99 so that's about 12 cents a stick. I pulled one out, and using the dial guestimaters they were from .448" to .453" checking several places around the OD the length of the stick.

I took a boxcutter and cut off a piece about 0.5" long and stuck it in a primed and flared 45 Colt case. I loaded it in my Vaquero and backed off about 12 ft from the rear garage wall. The back wall is finished in T&G Yellow Pine. I aimed at a handy knot and sqeezed her off. The Gluelit hit perfect for windage but about 4" low. It also put a very visible perfectly round impression in the board, about 1/32 to 1/16" deep.

I couldn't recover the slug as the back wall has a bunch of junk cluttered up against it. However, after the good solid "WHAP!" sound it made hitting the board, I heard it banging around amongst the flotsom and jetsom around the floor.

..............Buckshot

Jim

02-23-2008, 06:09 AM

For those of you that have .45 caliber handguns, gluelits are easily loaded without the trouble of casting. Prime an UNSIZED case, smear a LIGHT coat of grease on a glue stick, shove the stick all the way to the bottom of the case, cut the glue stick off square with the mouth of the case with a razor knife, lock and load!
The grease helps to get the glue stick all the way in the case and lubes the gluelit for the ride down the tube. Large magnum rifle primers will really get the gluelit zinging along, too. I shot up a plastic patio chair with these things so, remember, they have a little bullet energy to them.
Oh, one more thing: You might experience your primers backing out. Opening the flash hole to 1/8" will help with that. Just remember those cases are now dedicated to gluelits! Maybe a little color coding to keep them seperated?

Be safe and HAVE FUN!

JFriis

02-25-2008, 09:53 AM

All right, how about some numbers?

Chronograph placed 1' in front of target, target shot at 15'. Both sets were shot offhand, unsupported with a S&W 1911 PD (Commander Length).

Test #1 - Standard brass (Not drilled).
Average bullet weight 22 grains.
Average Velocity - 420 FPS.
5 shot group was right at 2". Would have been 1.5" except for one shot that may or may not have been me.

Test #2 - Brass drilled with 1/8" bit

Average bullet weight 22 grains
Average Velocity - 400 FPS.
5 shot group was right at 1.5".

Both tests had a wide deviation in FPS, =/- 15 fps either side of the average.
A long range test was performed with a single shot at 50 feet. The chronograph had a result of 358 FPS and the shot itself was fairly close to point of aim.
Energy calculations place this at 8ft lbs of force (Not sure what that means, but a 25 ACP is around 50 ft lbs if I recall correctly.)
Most of the recovered bullets were fine except of few that appeared to have shattered after hitting the plywood backstop. 80% recovery rate and 75% of those are reusable.

Jim

02-25-2008, 02:40 PM

I just realized That I failed to make the sequence of loading clear. If you lube the gluelit and seat it BEFORE you prime the case, it's a lot easier. Pushing a lubed gluelit into a primed case traps air and the gluelit has a tendency to pop back up.
I just came in from the patio test firing a coupla' loads. I put a gluelit the full length of a .45 Colt case through a plastic flower pot. Janet's gonna gluelit me!

EDIT ADDENDUM: I used a large magnum rifle primer in an undrilled case and had no problem with the primer backing out.

dakotashooter2

02-26-2008, 03:41 PM

Well I'm a new convert. Cast /injected (?) a dozen gluelits of a .41 Lee TL design.
Fired from a .41 Tracker.
Loaded 1 in an unaltered .41 case and just a bit of crimp, with a mag primer. Shot into an old pillow and wow what an impact. No penetration but a solid thump. Naturally the primer backed out.

Tried a few more then drilled out the flash hole on a trimmed down .41 case (.41 special) and primed again with fed mag primer. Wow even more impresive. The shorter case definately increased the velocity and didn't seem to effect the accuracy. Subsequent loads authoritavely penetrated two layers of corregated cardboard at 15 feet. Accuracy was minute of "post it note" though not to point of aim. Bullet showed no sign of damage after several firings, had no engraving from the rifling and left no residue in the barrel.

Accuracy testing is next. If I can still get MOP or better at 30 feet this may become an urban pigeon, crow and hare load.

:castmine:

218bee

02-26-2008, 06:22 PM

A WORD OF CAUTION: This intrigued me so I was going to do some research on "solids" for dangerous game and decided to use Krazy Glue......DON'T !!

Jim

02-26-2008, 06:48 PM

Dakota,
Lube that cast gluelit with a touch of automotive grease and your M/V will go up.

Vstrom

03-16-2008, 08:36 PM

We just melted about 3/8 inch of wax in a shallow flat baking dish and when hard just pushed a 38 special shell into the wax, used only a primer and had a lot of fun shooting targets downstairs at 25 ft. with my Colt Python!!!

Shrek

03-21-2008, 02:08 AM

Fellers,
I just caught this thread today. So of course, I had to try it. Talk about a blast!
I started with my Lee C309-170 mould and my Lee 210gr 41 mag mould.
I found a few things to pass on.
If you take a wooden match and smoke the cavities every 3 times you use it, the gluelits will release much easier. And keep the mould cool. It makes a BIG difference.
I didn't weigh any but I used Win LRM primers in my 41 Blackhawk 6.5bbl. Across the livingroom, about 15 feet, they would go through 1 layer of cardboard and 91 pages of an old AVON catalog. Scared the bejeebers out of my dog too, every time I set one off! I do need to drill the flash holes though. Shot to POA as well.
Haven't tried the 308s in the 30/30 yet, Mama came home and caught me. Almost got sent to the 'Lectric Chair' for shootin in the house!
shrek

Ricky P

07-20-2008, 01:47 PM

well I have shot the wax boolits so I had to try the glue boolits, I used lee 6 cav mold with out handles sprayed some cooking spray in the mold and wiped out excess. Turned the hot glue gun on and got to filling the mold. I did notice as the glue cools it lieaves a sinkhole in the base I did not use the spruce cutter and filled to a hump. Then I took a razar blade and trimed the boolits still being in the mold it held them nicely giveing me a good cut. Drill out some 40 cal casing and loaded. Did not lube them was to big of a hurry to shoot them worked good but did have a boolit stick in the barrel heat is the way to get it out.

EasyEd

07-21-2008, 11:01 PM

I remember back in the '60's the Bexar County Sheriff (San Antonio) had a prison riot on his hands, and settled it FAST by shooting a couple of rioting convicts w/wax bullets! DANG! They STING! Better get back in my cell! Wonder how that would go over these days...

Molly

08-09-2008, 07:48 PM

Hi fellows,

I have a question: Exactly what is the casting procedure used for glulits? Yeah, I read that it's just filling a mold cavity with hot glue, possibly with a little Pam to keep things civilized. But that leaves a whole lot of unanswered questions:

Is the sprue plate used in any way? I can picture filling the mold through it with the glue gun tip in the sprue hole. If not, how do you keep the glulits uniform in their bases? One post mentioned cutting off the base at one of the lube grooves. Is this to keep them uniform? Does anyone press the tip of the glue gun into the mold as they inject the glue to form a hollow base, like a minnie ball? Inquiring minds want to know.
Molly

copdills

08-10-2008, 04:37 AM

Y"all are having too much fun , guess I'll have to try LOL

Jim

09-14-2008, 04:46 AM

All,
It's been quite some time since I've been to this thread. I kinda' forgot about it. When I was experimenting with actually casting gluelits, I used a Lee mold. It took me a bit to work out a procedure, but I finally got it.
A touch of Pam helps with release. DO NOT preheat the mold. Keep it cool. This "fast forwards" the set-up time. Close the sprue plate and hold the nozzle of your glue gun tight to the sprue plate hole. Ya' gotta' hold the mold shut tight. Shoot the hot glue in. You'll know when the cavity is full as the hydraulic pressure will cause the nozzle to back off the sprue plate a bit. Give the glue gun one more shot as you are slowly backing away from the sprue plate. This will cause a build up of glue over the sprue plate. You need to do this 'cause when the glue begins to set up, there's a terrific suck-back into the cavity. Without the build-up, you'll get a void in the back of the gluelit.
Ya' gotta be patient with this. It takes a minute or so for the glue to set up. You can hasten this by holding the mold closed and dipping it in a container of ice water. You'll learn just how long this takes by trial and error. Be patient. Remember, we're jes' havin' fun here.
When the guelit sets up, open the sprue plate and the mold. The gluelit will not drop out. Ya' gotta' pull it out with your fingers. I would suggest you give the gluelits at least an hour to "cure".
When you're ready to load the gluelit, give it a LIGHT coat of grease. This helps not only with loading into the case, it also helps with the ride down the barrel. Without the grease, you'll get "leading" from the glue. The friction of the ride melts the glue and it smears on the inside of the barrel. Trust me, it's a real PITA to clean out.
SAFETY WARNING!: A gluelit is a projectile! Do not be fooled by the fact that they weigh next to nothing and have no powder charge. At close range(out to about 50 ft.), they will sting the p1$$ outa' somebody. If you doubt that, try a magnum primer and pop one on a plastic flower pot or patio chair. It'll go right through it. I've shot 'em through three layers of box cardboard at point blank range.

Enjoy and BE SAFE!

Jim