Survey: What Lead Temperature do you Cast?

[rbertalotto]

500-550 Degrees
550-600 Degrees
600-625 Degrees
625-650 Degrees
650-675 Degrees
675-700 Degrees
700-725 Degrees
Over 725 Degrees

Just curious what folks are doing out there...........

[blikseme300]

Depends what mold I am using. The Lee 6-bangers in 9mm like 700-710 while my H&G 6 cavity .452 prefers 620-630.


Bliksem
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[jameslovesjammie]

Since I started preheating my moulds on a hot plate, I generally have been able to lower my melt temps and am getting better quality boolits. That being said, I still have to run the melt a little hotter when running Hollowpoint moulds. I run about 685 for those.

[Jim Flinchbaugh]

I voted 650-675 becasue thats where most of my pouring is done.
I did run some type lead mystery metal the other day though & I
had to go to 800+ to get rid of the oatmeal and stop the "sheeting".
It was weird- never played with anything but WW & pure before.

[ShooterAZ]

I voted 700-725, however this will vary depending on the mold and the alloy. For round ball with pure I will go above 750 to even 800.

[HATCH]

800 degrees PID controlled.


sent from my mobile.

[gray wolf]

I always start at 100* over the liquid temp of the metal. If my melt is slushy at 475 and fully liquid at 550* I start to cast with a pre heated mold at 650* Ain't gonna get no more liquid then that. Different alloy may need a small adjustment. If that doesn't work it's the mold temp or the casting speed.

[popper]

700-710 PID controlled.

[mold maker]

That's a loaded question. The answer is determined by the # of cavities, alloy, weight/cal of boolit, and mold type. Even the ambient temp changes it.

[Doc Highwall]

That's a loaded question. The answer is determined by the # of cavities, alloy, weight/cal of boolit, and mold type. Even the ambient temp changes it.

I voted based on my 30:1 alloy with 2 to 4 cavity moulds.

Softer alloys and pure lead require a higher temperature.

If this survey asked about alloy used and number of cavities along with temperature it would be more usefull.

[fcvan]

I honestly do not know what temperature the melt is when I cast. I use a Lee 110v 10 lb pot with a tin can lid cut to fit the top. I place two molds, generally Lee aluminum molds but sometimes Lyman, or SAECO molds as well. When the pot is hot I begin casting. Within two cycles things should be at temp and boolits fall shiny and free from the molds. When the sprue cools to solid within 3-5 seconds the temp is good.

Depending on the ambient temperature I might adjust the pot. The rest of the time I regulate by preheating an ingot by setting it on top of the pot rim. If the pot is running a little warm I will lower it some by putting the ingot in a little early. If the pot is cool I will let the ingot warm longer. If still too cool or too hot I will adjust the thermostat and then continue to regulate using cadence and ingot preheating.

I'd really love to make a propane or natural gas bottom pour furnace about 20 lb capacity. Regulating gas can be more precise than an electric pot without a PID controller. For now, I'm getting good results with consistent boolit weights and fill out. I still don't know what temperature I'm running but that doesn't seem to matter much.

[runfiverun]

650-750.
i have cast as low as 615-f and try to stay as low as possible on the alloy temp.
it's all about the mold temp.
100 over liquid alloy temp is enough.

[quasi]

I guess I am in the Bruce B category, I set my RCBS pot wide open. This may change, I am gathering the parts to make a PID.

[dragonrider]

My PID is set to 735. That works well for me.

[.30/30 Guy]

My PID is set at 660. I am finding that I use this temperature for all mold materials. I even use this temperature for Hoch nose pour molds.

[dragon813gt]

For Cramer molds I have to run it at over 750. For the regular molds right around 700. It all depends on the mold and how fast I want to cast. I'm not a fan of beating myself up by rushing to keep the mold hot. I will just turn up the temp.


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[MBTcustom]

It really depends on the alloy and mold being used. If I am running iron or brass with 96/6/3, then about 690* is where I can get my casting speed up where I want it. If I am running aluminum or HP molds, then about 750* is where I run. If I am casting pure lead, then I keep it at almost 800*

[cbrick]

I always start at 100* over the liquid temp of the metal. If my melt is slushy at 475 and fully liquid at 550* I start to cast with a pre heated mold at 650* Ain't gonna get no more liquid then that. Different alloy may need a small adjustment. If that doesn't work it's the mold temp or the casting speed.

The above are the words of a wise man.

If your using tin in your alloy and casting above 750 the tin cannot do what you put it in there to do. That's just the metallurgy of a Pb/Sn alloy.

Rick

[HighHook]

650-750 all depends on the molds at time of casting

[HATCH]

Based on my casting speed having lead temp at 800 is right for me.

Casting perfect boolits is all about alloy, lead temp and mold temp.

Yes lead may be liquid at 600 but based on the rate you cast you may not be able to keep the mold hot enough to cast perfect boolits with lead at that temp. When i hand cast its using brass mold it like to run hot so i do 800.


sent from my mobile.

[Shooternz]

I have a RCBS Pro melt I run it flat out, tried it at lower settings and the spout cools off, my mix is 60-75% lead scrap and WW, don't have any problem with frosting use two moulds and regulate mould temperature with casting cadence if the ambient temperature gets to high I have a fan blowing across the work area can generally get through 20 pound without stopping that's enough boolits for a size/lube secession. Robert.

[zuke]

Depend's on the mold and alloy I'm using ,but hot enough to get the lead out!

[762sultan]

I guess I am in the minority as I cast 600-625. I use a Saeco 32 furnace with a temperature dial on the front. I do not have a thermometer that goes into the melt so I am not totally sure of the temp. I have used the furnace for about 40 years and have found that setting the dial in that position works best for me. I use mostly Lyman 2 cavity molds but have several single cavity molds. I have noticed that a new 311299 mold has trouble coming up to temp so when using it I turn up the pot until it starts to make good bollits and adjust it down when it starts to make frosted ones.

[btroj]

No idea. Don't have a thermometer. I have my RCBS pot set at a temp that works so I leave it alone.

Like Run said, I worry far more about keeping a consistent mould temp.

[MtGun44]

No clue. If they are wrinkly - hotter. If too frosty - cooler.

Numbers mean little, it is performance.

Bill

[warf73]

Seems that my pot (according to my thermo) when everything is perfect in the world 680*ish I can cast. But most the time 725*+ish is the casting temp, I cast as low temp as my pot will allow.

[rbertalotto]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm surprised at how hot a lot of folks are casting. I would think going over about 725 degrees was "no man's land"....but I'm proven wrong. I'm going to try cranking up the temp a bit on a couple of my cantankerous molds.

[LUCKYDAWG13]

for the most part i like to keep temp at 725 for my H/P molds

[Tazman1602]

That's a relative question.....relative to the mold, numbers of cavs, mold material, and even ambient temp.

When using an HP mold with a single pin, I normally heat the pin a bit too by dipping in the mix quickly. Otherwise it takes forever to get it to temp.

Art

[captaint]

I voted for the 700-725 however - I always start closer to 675 and adjust from there. Normally, I let the temp get up to about 725, then back it down as the mold gets right. I usually end up just over 700. Hollow points, or course are another matter. The 4 cav's anyway. The 2 cav's are quite managable at lower temps. enjoy Mike

[sagamore-one]

I learned to blend and cast lead alloy in a large print shop where 850 was considered the low end of normal.
I proceeded to cast for over 35 years at home at or near 850. I now, that my nickel addative is depleted, have throttled back to 750 - 800 and still use two H&G big moulds at a time, and nothing softer than Lyman # 2 alloy.

[Marlin Junky]

I checked 700 to 725 but my temperature selection actually varies between about 675 to 750 depending on cavity size, alloy and mold construction (latter to include material, weight, etc.).

MJ

P.S. Start with a hot mold... it makes life a lot easier.

[Huntducks]

I have no clue, old school here 20lb pot set on 7 when the pot and mold heats up I cast.

[Marlin Junky]

I have no clue, old school here 20lb pot set on 7 when the pot and mold heats up I cast.

Doesn't sound like much of a school... oh wait, you're from California... mystery solved.... ha ha :kidding:

I'm sorry, I couldn't resist the temptation. ;)

MJ

[prs]

It really depends on the alloy and mold being used. If I am running iron or brass with 96/6/3, then about 690* is where I can get my casting speed up where I want it. If I am running aluminum or HP molds, then about 750* is where I run. If I am casting pure lead, then I keep it at almost 800*

I think you and brother had the same math teacher! He always said, "Let's divide this up 60:50." Maybe it was your high school coach telling y'all to give 112%. Just josh'n with ya, I know what ya meant.

prs

[Mal Paso]

With less than 3% antimony and less than 2% tin: 670F with a brass MP432256 and 690F With a brass MP432640 w/Cramer hollow point. 3 throws a minute.

[Mlt2]

I like around 650 to 675 with my lee 9mm and 44 mag mold. This is with WW lead.

[mpmarty]

I try to keep pot at or a bit below 700* f. Lee 20 lb bottom pour. If I go much below 650* f. the spout freezes up and I'm out of business for a while. Just cast 150 457122 HP boolits at +- 700* f. and I gotta say I love that mold.

[rbertalotto]

BTW, if your spout ever freezes up, a quick pass with a propane torch or even a "hot" cigarette lighter will free it up in seconds. Once the lead starts flowing it should stay hot enough.

[Inkman]

700 to 725 for regular pistol boolits. Little hotter for the HP molds. Don't cast any rifle boolits.



Yet.

Al

[noylj]

Steel/iron molds--675-725.
Aluminum--800+ or dip the corner of the mold in the melt prior to each case. Damn things cool off so fast...

[MikeS]

I voted 650-675 as I normally keep my lead somewhere in that range. I also agree with keeping the pot 100 degrees over the temp where the melt is fully liquid. I even cast pistol HP boolits at these temps, I've never had a reason to crank up the temp just because I'm casting hollow points.

[RobS]

That's a loaded question. The answer is determined by the # of cavities, alloy, weight/cal of boolit, and mold type. Even the ambient temp changes it.

Bingo....... along with tempo/rate of casting.

[geargnasher]

The poll reflects a lack of understanding of the whole situation.

Mould temp makes good boolits, alloy temp just needs to be hot enough to be liquid, plus a little margin to impart plenty of heat to the blocks. If you're casting with 800-degree wheel weight metal (for example) in order to keep the mould hot enough for good fillout, you're slacking severely in your casting rhythm, because all you're accomplishing above 750F is burning out tin.

100-degrees above full-liquidus of the alloy is almost always plenty, often less depending on the things Mold Maker mentioned, particularly the ambient temperature and drafts in the casting area.

Pure lead is a different animal, and often needs to be about 150-200 above it's liquidus point in order to achieve good fillout. Adding 1% tin to pure lead and casting at 725-740 will do wonders for fillout of shotgun slugs, Mini balls, HB wadcutters, etc.

Almost universally it will be found that the guys who insist on running their pots "wide open" with typical ternary boolit alloys in the 500-600F full-liquidus range haven't learned how to control mould temperature with casting pace.

Gear

[willy3]

I use single, double and six cavity molds both steel and aluminum.. 600 usually works but I can adjust up or down a little depending upon how well they are dropping from mold.

[RobsTV]

The poll reflects a lack of understanding of the whole situation.

.......(snip)........

Gear


And a perfect example is what I just discovered.
Voted 550-600.

After having issues with heat treating oven monitoring, did some thorough inspecting, and found my Tel-Tru thermometer was off by about 100 degrees. Seems that if you turn the probe shaft, the dial pointer can turn separately from the numbered face. Luckily I already had found best casting results at 100 over full liquidus point, so the actual temperature did not really matter. And that is the biggest flaw with this type of poll. I would change my vote to 675-710, but the actual temperature does not really matter.

[hickfu]

Right around 700, my boolits come out the best at this temp, If I am pouring the big 540gr's I may up the temp a little.



Doc

[dragon813gt]

After getting a PID I now know actual temps. 700 for regular and 740 for hollow point. I started low and worked up to a temp that works for my pace. I refuse to treat casting as work or as a process that wears me out. If I have to turn the temp up or put the mold on the hot plate more often, I will. Now that I know I'm staying below 750 I'm not really concerned about losing tin.

[Gar]

On an average, around 680. Like most of the folks have said, depends on the mold and alloy I'm casting with.
I have a PID on the pot and have written down the temperature for most of my molds, some like it hot, some not :-D

[Treetop]

BTW, if your spout ever freezes up, a quick pass with a propane torch or even a "hot" cigarette lighter will free it up in seconds. Once the lead starts flowing it should stay hot enough.

Thanks for that tip, rbertalotto! As I read through this thread, I wondered how folks could pour at 650 degrees, because neither of my RCBS Pro Melts will pour at that temperature, it takes about 725, to get a flow, so that's where I normally pour. Except for aluminum and hollow point molds, which I necessarily run hotter. Tt.

[geargnasher]

Thanks for that tip, rbertalotto! As I read through this thread, I wondered how folks could pour at 650 degrees, because neither of my RCBS Pro Melts will pour at that temperature, it takes about 725, to get a flow, so that's where I normally pour. Except for aluminum and hollow point molds, which I necessarily run hotter. Tt.

Again, like most of those posting in this thread, you completely ignore the fact that slight variances in alloy composition can have drastic effects on the melt temperature. Saying "it takes about 725 to get it to flow" means absolutely nothing if you don't know the temperature where your alloy melts and don't mention the ambient temperature conditions. I can cast with Zamak #3 at 725F, and believe me, that's more than hot enough to cast with any typical boolit alloy. My pot will cast at about 20F over full liquidus with anything I put in it, but if I was out on the porch in a 30 MPH "blue norther" with a wind chill of 25F I'd have trouble getting my bottom pour to even melt the metal, much less dispense it.

So take what some of us have said into consideration, and think past pot temperature. Think about alloy kelt point, slush point, full-liquidus transition, your ambient conditions, and the most important one, MOULD temperature.

Gear

[stubshaft]

There is no "IDon't know" on the poll. I've been castong for over 30 years and never found the need for a thermometer.

[rintinglen]

Hot enough for good fill out at the speed I cast at. Given that I seldom know what the metal is alloyed of in my pot, and that my lead Thermometer bit the dust, it is silly of me to state unequivocally that "I cast at 'X' temperature." I fiddle around until I get good boolits. If that means crank 'er up, then that's what happens. If It takes too long for the sprue to cool, then I turn it down. Different molds will need different temperatures, and maybe techniques, for good fill out.
HOWEVER, when in doubt, go hot. Life's to short to fiddle with a mold trying for that "perfect" sweet spot. A pile of rejects is not a good afternoon.

[Shiloh]

As low as I can and get good, complete boolits with good bases.

SHiloh

[mpmarty]

Now that I have a PID and know full liquid state is at or a bit above 650* F I set the PID to 750* F and use a propane torch on the spout to get it to flow. It's cold here and the wind is howling.

[Phoenix]

Wow, I cant possibly answer that as I cast using a half dozen different alloys. The casting temperature varies by alloy, number of mold cavities, Mold Material, Bullet shape. anywhere from 600-800 altho I try to keep it between 600 and 700.

[dave_g]

I had trouble with the melt getting too hot so I built a PID. I set it at 700 to start and I haven't felt the need to move it yet. From 105 grain to 230 grain boolits it works great at 700. I only have Lee molds.

[geargnasher]

I had trouble with the melt getting too hot so I built a PID. I set it at 700 to start and I haven't felt the need to move it yet. From 105 grain to 230 grain boolits it works great at 700. I only have Lee molds.


All good info but meaningless to others unless you also mention the liquidus point of the alloy you're using when you cast at 700F.

Gear

[Recluse]

The poll reflects a lack of understanding of the whole situation.

Gear


Wow, I cant possibly answer that as I cast using a half dozen different alloys. The casting temperature varies by alloy, number of mold cavities, Mold Material, Bullet shape. anywhere from 600-800 altho I try to keep it between 600 and 700.

Yep.

Depends on which molds I'm using, which boolits I'm casting for, what blend of alloy I'm using, what I'm going to be using the boolits for, what BHN am I shooting for, etc etc.

Granted, it's not a huge variance, but certainly more than the 50F variances in the original poll.

:coffee:

[Hondo 60]

Just started casting & voted 675-700.
But it's still winter here, so when the weather warms up I may have to lower that.
(I know the calendar says Spring - but the weather, with at least a foot of snow on the ground, says winter)

[dave_g]

All good info but meaningless to others unless you also mention the liquidus point of the alloy you're using when you cast at 700F.

Gear

Can I check my answers with you before I post next time?

[cat223]

No clue. If they are wrinkly - hotter. If too frosty - cooler.

Numbers mean little, it is performance.

Bill

OK, maybe I'm just simple minded but I think I can work with this formula.

[Jim..47]

I use the melted lead temperature. In other words I have no thermometer. Maybe some day, dang things sure are expensive.

[DLCTEX]

I voted 650-675 but that is subject to change depending on alloy and mould. I cast inside in a heated and air conditioned room, so ambient temp is rather constant. I usually cast with WW alloy, so majority is in the stated range. I do preheat my moulds on a hotplate and find that helps cast at a lower temp than I was before.

[H.Callahan]

I use the melted lead temperature. In other words I have no thermometer. Maybe some day, dang things sure are expensive.

I don't want to presume what your personal financial situation is, but NOE has a lead pot thermometer for $26.00 (http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=30). As compared with other things used in our addiction, it is pretty reasonable. I think you can find an equivalent thermometer online for even a bit less, if you are really having to pinch pennies....

[Papa smurf]

I don't have any idea what the temperature is and really don't care ! Been casting for 60 years and just seem too know when the pot looks and casts right. I use a lot of scrap lead and it doesn't all cast or melt the same. Don't think a thermometer would really help Never had any problems , but have been having lots of fun all these years. Good Shooting to all------------------ Papa Smurf

[Jim..47]

I don't want to presume what your personal financial situation is, but NOE has a lead pot thermometer for $26.00 (http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=30). As compared with other things used in our addiction, it is pretty reasonable. I think you can find an equivalent thermometer online for even a bit less, if you are really having to pinch pennies....

Thanks for that link, Lt. Callahan! That looks reasonable enough, but can you tell me at what quality level it is? If I'm going to buy one I want it to last a while. Finances aren't that tight, but my better half is wishing I'd never bought this Glock in 40 S&W. Its all the add on stuff that keeps making it expensive. But aside from the thermometer I only need one more die. The Lee 90060 cast bullet sizer. I wouldn't get that either except my hands welcome the relief of being able to use my Rockchucker instead of my Lyman lubersizer. Those things are incredibly uncomfortable and crippling.

Thanks again for the link. If this one is of low life expectancy what one do you recommend? I was looking at those lazer therms. but they are quite a bit.

[H.Callahan]

Thanks for that link, Lt. Callahan! That looks reasonable enough, but can you tell me at what quality level it is? If I'm going to buy one I want it to last a while. Finances aren't that tight, but my better half is wishing I'd never bought this Glock in 40 S&W. Its all the add on stuff that keeps making it expensive. But aside from the thermometer I only need one more die. The Lee 90060 cast bullet sizer. I wouldn't get that either except my hands welcome the relief of being able to use my Rockchucker instead of my Lyman lubersizer. Those things are incredibly uncomfortable and crippling.

Thanks again for the link. If this one is of low life expectancy what one do you recommend? I was looking at those lazer therms. but they are quite a bit.

It is very good quality. Obviously, if you are going to hit it with a hammer or throw it up against a wall, it won't last as long. ;) Seriously, as long as you take reasonable care of it, it will last quite a while.

I wouldn't look at the laser thermometers for the lead pot. If you have good clean lead (which you should have), it has a highly reflective surface, which confuses the bejesus out of the lasers (they ARE good for taking mold temps, though). Also, a dial thermometer sits in the pot the entire time allowing you to check temps at a quick glance while you are casting rather than having to stop and fumble to get a reading from the laser. It is easier to spot trends (getting hotter or getting colder) with constant measurement.

[Jim..47]

[QUOTE=H.Callahan;2176454]It is very good quality. Obviously, if you are going to hit it with a hammer or throw it up against a wall, it won't last as long. ;) Seriously, as long as you take reasonable care of it, it will last quite a while.

I wouldn't look at the laser thermometers for the lead pot. If you have good clean lead (which you should have), it has a highly reflective surface, which confuses the bejesus out of the lasers (they ARE good for taking mold temps, though). Also, a dial thermometer sits in the pot the entire time allowing you to check temps at a quick glance while you are casting rather than having to stop and fumble to get a reading from the laser. It is easier to spot trends (getting hotter or getting colder) with constant measurement.[/QUOTE


Thats good enough for me. I certainly appreciate getting advice from you guys. Much better then 20/20 hind sight. [smilie=s:

[Adam10mm]

I aim for 700 degrees and if I'm +/- 25 degrees I don't sweat it.

[detox]

With Lyman #2 i cast between 650-675. With Linotype i cast between 550-600. Less tin oxidation at these lower temps when using the ladle.

[Jim..47]

I guess its kind of silly to ask this, but what kind of problems or difficulties to you have casting at this low of temps?

[detox]

I guess its kind of silly to ask this, but what kind of problems or difficulties to you have casting at this low of temps?

I have no problems, just slightly larger diameter boollits. BTW Linotype machines cast as low as 535 degrees.

[Jim..47]

Ahh, ordered my Noe cast thermometer last night.

[detox]

Here is verygood information on casting temps.
http://www.lasc.us/Kelter_Cast_Bullet_Alloys2.pdf

[GRid.1569]

Up to 725 for me with range scrap & Lee 6 cav moulds...

Got a hotplate to pre-heat moulds (especially NOE brass 360-180) but haven't had a chance to use it yet...

Hope that might mean I can run cooler as the Alu moulds seem to start frosting unless I slow down @ 725...

[Smoke4320]

Linotype... I cast between 550-600
just getting started again after years off and learning all over

[TenTea]

I am a CIT (caster in training) who spent a day last weekend with someone who has been casting for ~50 years and I was told:

*The best rule of thumb for a universal alloy casting temperature is 800 degrees F.*

I don't have enough experience to disprove the theory, but I will soon own a thermometer to aid my semi-scientific guess.

[Marlin Junky]

Rather than edit my earlier post I decided to add the following:

Within the last few days I began casting .35 caliber pistol boolits again (which is what I started casting 40 years ago sans a couple months!) and checked my pot temp last night after some fiddling:

It averaged approx. 640F while using RCBS 35-200 (yeah, it's a peestol boolit!). Obviously, your alloy and pouring system will dictate how much heat you need in your furnace.

Always pre-heat your molds before casting and I'd like to say a word about that subject. If you've got a mold in your hot lil' hand that you've never used before, set it on a hot plate until the cavities and all shinny external metal turn violet or dark blue. Ah... you say, you've got an aluminum mold! Chances are even if you've got an aluminum mold with an aluminum sprue plate (you poor devil :bigsmyl2:) it still has a steel sprue pivot... it needs to turn violet before you pull it from the hot plate.

MJ

P.S. Referencing the post directly above, even Lyman who taught folks casting using their pathetic little nipple dipper, suggested a pot temp of 750F. Unless you're casting with something other than an alloy based on approximately 90% Pb, you're wasting time, experience, money, etc. by setting your furnace at 800F. 800F is probably about right for hollow based Minie´ Balls; however, I can't say that for certain because I'm an accuracy buff who has never cast a Minie´ Ball because it was a stop-gap infantry approach invented by a Frenchman at a time when 75 yards was considered long range.

[CAVEMTNMAN]

Linotype and Monotype - I cast bet. 800 & 850 with LBT mold.

[hickfu]

I tried casting at 650F but didnt get the size I was used to so I went back up to between 700 and 725 and now they are back to what I want. I dont know why I wanted to try something different when I was getting the results I wanted at a temp I have been using for almost 2 years [smilie=b:

Doc

[jonk]

No idea; I know which thermostat settings work for which alloys, but given that I could care less what temp the lead is at. 10 for pure lead until the mold gets really warm, then back down to 8; 8 for wheelweights until the mold gets hot, then back down to 6. Job done.

[Jim..47]

Got my casting thermometer from Noe's a couple weeks ago and had a chance to cast today. I use an old Lyman 20 pound furnace, no temp controls or anything. Just a plugin and go. So as I was casting I would stick the T in every few minutes and to my surprise I was casting at much lower temp then I thought. I think when I first started it was around 725, but once I started dropping ingots in I wathed and it hovered around 625-650.

As I said a big surprise as in addition to the electric heating element which works fine, and had melted the whole pot before I started casting, I also use a pencil flame propane torch heating the pot. I guess I cast a fair rate to keep it that low temp when using two sources of heat?

But I sure had a hard time keeping the pot clean and fluxed. It looked dirty the whole time. And as I had melted the WW's I also heavily fluxed and cleaned out the debree. But I think my problem was that I was using the very first bucket of ingots I ever made and they had a lot of air blown dirt on them.

When these are gone, which won't take long I'll have to remember to put a dirt proof cover on the next buckets. and also place the buckets on a dolly. I can't lift them anymore. :castmine:

[Herb3]

Last time I did some casting the air temperature was about 40 degrees and I was running my pot at 705 controlled with a pid. Today I did some casting with the same range scrap I used this winter and had to lower my pid temp setting to 680. Air temperature today was 80 plus degrees.

[Marlin Junky]

Linotype and Monotype - I cast bet. 800 & 850 with LBT mold.

:shock:

Are you playing poker and casting at the same time? Or casting Zn boolits?

MJ

[Marlin Junky]

Last time I did some casting the air temperature was about 40 degrees and I was running my pot at 705 controlled with a pid. Today I did some casting with the same range scrap I used this winter and had to lower my pid temp setting to 680. Air temperature today was 80 plus degrees.

Same mold and lead pouring device?

MJ

[Herb3]

Same mold and lead pouring device?

MJ

Yup same mold, pot and lead as before

[jethunter]

Last time I did some casting the air temperature was about 40 degrees and I was running my pot at 705 controlled with a pid. Today I did some casting with the same range scrap I used this winter and had to lower my pid temp setting to 680. Air temperature today was 80 plus degrees.

That makes perfect sense.

The pot might be PID controlled but your mold isn't. Warmer ambient temperature makes your mold run hotter and to bring it back into the sweet spot you had to lower the temperature of the molten lead. The most important factor in bullet making is mold temperature.

[mookiie]

What is a PID controller? How do you set one up to work with your pot?

[Pakprotector]

I run in the 'over 725' regime. Bullet is a 25 auto, on one of Veral's two-chamber molds. I have between one and two percent Tin and the rest lead to keep them soft. Rifle has a BSA pellet barrel with a light choke, and delivered velocity is heading for 900 fps; it started life as a Benjamin Marauder 2563, 25 cal.
cheers,
Douglas

[Marlin Junky]

I run in the 'over 725' regime. Bullet is a 25 auto, on one of Veral's two-chamber molds. I have between one and two percent Tin and the rest lead to keep them soft. Rifle has a BSA pellet barrel with a light choke, and delivered velocity is heading for 900 fps; it started life as a Benjamin Marauder 2563, 25 cal.
cheers,
Douglas

Casting tiny lil' boolits (especially with aluminum molds) usually means either more heat in the furnace or a quicker casting rate is necessary. Do you preheat the mold to about 500F? How much higher than 725F is your melt temp? I'd like to see your boolits/pellets.

How 'bout posting the details of your airgun on the airgun forum? Oh, I'm sorry, we don't have an airgun forum.

Nevertheless, was that your Marauder we were talking about a few weeks ago? The one where you basically changed everything but the trigger and butt stock?

MJ

[Pakprotector]

Casting tiny lil' boolits (especially with aluminum molds) usually means either more heat in the furnace or a quicker casting rate is necessary. Do you preheat the mold to about 500F? How much higher than 725F is your melt temp? I'd like to see your boolits/pellets.

How 'bout posting the details of your airgun on the airgun forum? Oh, I'm sorry, we don't have an airgun forum.

Nevertheless, was that your Marauder we were talking about a few weeks ago? The one where you basically changed everything but the trigger and butt stock?

MJ

LOL..changed or altered I think. The stock is significantly altered too to fit the bottle reservoir too.

You're not the first one to ask for pics of the li'l boolits; I will make some and post up here. I do warm up the mold by resting it on the edge of the pot. I have not put a thermocouple in the mold block yet, and last time I measured the lead it was around 760 F. I also put on a good puddle on the sprue plate, and tip it off right before I pour the next time. Sprue mass is probably 5x the combined boolit mass. From another airguner running nearly pure lead, he suggested turning up the temp 'til I just see blue then back off a bit.

Veral's mold is Aluminium, and I have CI for the Lyman 252435 and RCBS 25-050-RN molds. Those I have not yet done with the mostly lead yet.

[45 Shooter]

I'm casting COWW's with a little Tin mixed in, nothing scientific on the formula. Using a Lee Production Pot IV I turn the dial up to 4.5 then adjust untill it starts to melt, once melted i'll turn it up another 3/4 so maybe 5.75 to 6 on the dial. In other words, i'm not using a thermometer.

My Grandfather used to cast his own a long time ago and i've sparked his interest back into the hobby. I asked him when I first started about using a thermometer, he told me, "Do you think they used thermometers in the 1700's and before?" :bigsmyl2:

Naturally, I know the advancement in firearms has changed the game drastically since then but i'm casting without one for now.

[Marlin Junky]

I do warm up the mold by resting it on the edge of the pot.

I found that a 450-500F hot plate was a vast improvement over the edge of any casting furnace. If all you can locate is a coil type hot plate, purchase a plate of steel to place between the coil and the mold.

MJ

[Lance Boyle]

I'm a bit of a newb but I'm finding I'm around 680-720 ish. I voted for the 675-700 block as I was pretty evenly straddling the arbitrary line there.

I'm using a tel tru thermometer (which doesn't jive to the dial on my RCBS pot) and I am using COWW with 5% tin added for .30 cal rifle bullets. IIRC it melts to liquid at 560 ish.

I know I need to keep better notes and not lose knowledge to the vagaries of my mind. Oddly I keep great notes on my loading process but fall way short on the casting side.

[Marlin Junky]

I'm using a tel tru thermometer (which doesn't jive to the dial on my RCBS pot) and I am using COWW with 5% tin added for .30 cal rifle bullets. IIRC it melts to liquid at 560 ish.

I would make my tin go twice as far... 5% is too expensive.

If you are running your pot at 720F, depending on the time period your COWW metal was refined, your mold material and other miscellaneous casting conditions, boolits cast with it alone (sans the tin) can end up BHN 15-16 in a matter of months. Tin over about 1-2% may actually retard that hardening process and not actually improve the flow properties of the alloy at 720F. Make sure your mold is at the proper temperature before starting to cast with it... about 475-500F is where I like to be.

MJ

[DeanWinchester]

I still fly using the Force to guide me. I have always meant to buy a thermometer just never have. I know my pot and my molds and can feel it out pretty darn good.

[hylander]

Between number 6 and number 7 on my LEE 4-20 pot, whatever temp that is ?
Closer to number 6

[JeffG]

Between number 6 and number 7 on my LEE 4-20 pot, whatever temp that is ?
Closer to number 6

I have a Lee 10lb production pot that is about 20 years old and surprisingly 7 on the dial is pretty close to 700 when the pot is full. As the level drops, I usually need to ease the dial down to 6-6.5 to keep it around 700.

[JohnFM]

I got into casting my own late in life, but with the Lyman #2 alloy I mix up I've found if I can keep the temperature to just over 600°F I get the best results.
With plain WW up around 700°F seems to do good.

[HDS]

700-710 PID controlled.

Ditto for me.

[josper]

No clue. If they are wrinkly - hotter. If too frosty - cooler.

Numbers mean little, it is performance.

Bill I'm with you on this one Bill. I am using a maverick digital BBQ thermometer and I can control the mold temp easily . With an accurate brass mold 45-270 The best combo was 725 with the pot and 350 with the mold. With that I got good fill out and the bullet roundness was good.My alloy for this is 1# lino -4# range lead which tested about 10 with the lee lead hardness tester. These are for my 45 colt rds.

[Baja_Traveler]

Since pure lead melts at 621* I sure wonder how the 11 guys that responded are pouring at or under that temp - must be a ton of tin in their alloy...

[Chuck_ls]

I usually start about 675 with a mold I am not familiar with, and adjust up or down from there, depending on what I am seeing in the bullets. That temp. is usually in the ball park, and I rarely go over 700.
Chuck

[Petrol & Powder]

No clue. If they are wrinkly - hotter. If too frosty - cooler.

Numbers mean little, it is performance.

Bill

I purchased a thermometer because I thought I was supposed to? I used it a little and found that I went right back to the wrinkly/frosty scale.
Some folks are multi-meter people and some folks are test light people. I'm a test light kinda guy :grin:

[Hardcast416taylor]

That's a loaded question. The answer is determined by the # of cavities, alloy, weight/cal of boolit, and mold type. Even the ambient temp changes it.


BINGO!!!!!Robert

[GOPHER SLAYER]

To the max, peddle to the metal!

[geargnasher]

Since pure lead melts at 621* I sure wonder how the 11 guys that responded are pouring at or under that temp - must be a ton of tin in their alloy...

Not really. WW typically has between 1/2 and two percent tin and is fully liquid between 570 and 590F. Look at the ternary alloy phase diagram shown in Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 3rd Ed. and you can clearly see exactly what does what at what percentages and temperatures. Many books on nonferrous metallurgy and casting have similar phase diagrams regarding lead/tin/antimony alloy.

Gear

[Atticus Flinch]

Having only a Lyman Mini-Mag pot with no adjustability, I have just used it as-is for a couple years.

It took a LONG time to get the moulds up to a comfortable casting temp, so I got a hotplate for that purpose. That has helped a lot. Recently, I picked up a thermometer from Roto-metals and found that the Lyman pot holds the alloy at about 640 degrees.

Santa's #1 elf is getting me one of the Waage pots for Christmas, so I can see how I like other temps. That being said, I've become pretty comfortable with the 640 degree alloy and my 50/50 WW/range scrap alloy as long as it's used with a preheated mould.

[cbrick]

Having only a Lyman Mini-Mag pot with no adjustability, I have just used it as-is for a couple years.

It took a LONG time to get the moulds up to a comfortable casting temp, so I got a hotplate for that purpose. That has helped a lot. Recently, I picked up a thermometer from Roto-metals and found that the Lyman pot holds the alloy at about 640 degrees.

Santa's #1 elf is getting me one of the Waage pots for Christmas, so I can see how I like other temps. That being said, I've become pretty comfortable with the 640 degree alloy and my 50/50 WW/range scrap alloy as long as it's used with a preheated mould.

Welcome to CastBoolits Atticus Flinch,

Very wise, you are absolutely correct. It's mold temp that's important, higher pot temps do little more than hide the fact that you didn't get the mold to proper casting temp first.

A new Waage, lucky dog. :mrgreen:

Rick

['74 sharps]

#4 on my Lee 20#:-D

[Kraschenbirn]

Depends upon alloy and mould design. For example: I've got a couple of NEI moulds that need to be run 'hot' (700 F.) to get good boolits with the 50/50 + a bit of SN that I shoot in my .38-55 and .45-70 but I get good .45 ACPs from my RCBS 45-200-SWC at 625-650 using the same alloy. Same thing is true with the 'enriched' Lyman #2 I use for my CF rifle moulds. My Lee moulds (aluminum) seem to like a bit lower temps than my Lyman and Ideal (iron) moulds.

Bill

[dragon813gt]

So far this week it was two different 45cal MP molds and three different temps. Both molds were preheated on a hot plate. First one was a solid and it ran perfectly at 700 from first pour to last. I probably could have taken it lower but it was working perfectly. Second one was a hollowpoint and I had to ramp the temp up to 740 to get it working properly. Then I backed it off to 725 to get the sprue to solidify in short order. Every mold is different.

[geargnasher]

I still get a kick out of these posts. Mould temperature is the most important thing to focus on and I'll bet most of you have no idea what your mould temperatures and sprue plate temperatures really are when casting. What ever works for you, though.

Gear

[warf73]

I still get a kick out of these posts. Mould temperature is the most important thing to focus on and I'll bet most of you have no idea what your mould temperatures and sprue plate temperatures really are when casting. What ever works for you, though.

Gear

I'll bet your right, that 95% of ALL casters have no idea what there mold or spur temp is. But I can tell you when everything is right and boolits are fall like rain from the sky out of the mold. I pour between 700~725 according to thermo in the pot, I can't pour any cooler because the spout freezes up(summer/winter don't matter). Hard to pour boolits when you get no lead out of the pot, been like this since I bought the pot new.
Some molds RD 100gr 380 comes to mind, doesn't matter how much you preheat the mold. Run the pot at 750 and pour as fast I can and never over heat the mold and get GREAT boolits from the first pour till I'm done. There is just to much mass and not enough heat hitting the mold to keep it hot enough without going to 750 on the alloy. I lower the heat to 725ish and start to get bad fill out so I increase the heat back to 750 and about 4 or 5 pours later the fillout is good again. I must be doing something right as you can grab a boolit poured in Sept or Dec and they will be within 1gr of each other. And the best part is the boolits kill the pooo out of them paper targets which makes the wife happy.

[cali4088]

I voted 650-675 becasue thats where most of my pouring is done.
I did run some type lead mystery metal the other day though & I
had to go to 800+ to get rid of the oatmeal and stop the "sheeting".
It was weird- never played with anything but WW & pure before.

Sounds like you had zinc in your pot. That or you had a whole bunch of antimony that needed to be fluxed back in. Im siding with zinc. oatmeal for zinc, and lead being oxidized at 800 degrees

[cali4088]

I'll bet your right, that 95% of ALL casters have no idea what there mold or spur temp is. But I can tell you when everything is right and boolits are fall like rain from the sky out of the mold. I pour between 700~725 according to thermo in the pot, I can't pour any cooler because the spout freezes up(summer/winter don't matter). Hard to pour boolits when you get no lead out of the pot, been like this since I bought the pot new.
Some molds RD 100gr 380 comes to mind, doesn't matter how much you preheat the mold. Run the pot at 750 and pour as fast I can and never over heat the mold and get GREAT boolits from the first pour till I'm done. There is just to much mass and not enough heat hitting the mold to keep it hot enough without going to 750 on the alloy. I lower the heat to 725ish and start to get bad fill out so I increase the heat back to 750 and about 4 or 5 pours later the fillout is good again. I must be doing something right as you can grab a boolit poured in Sept or Dec and they will be within 1gr of each other. And the best part is the boolits kill the pooo out of them paper targets which makes the wife happy.

Sounds like you're pouring pure lead. Get the stringy lead coming out of the bottom pourer? It happens

[geargnasher]

I'll bet your right, that 95% of ALL casters have no idea what there mold or spur temp is. But I can tell you when everything is right and boolits are fall like rain from the sky out of the mold. I pour between 700~725 according to thermo in the pot, I can't pour any cooler because the spout freezes up(summer/winter don't matter). Hard to pour boolits when you get no lead out of the pot, been like this since I bought the pot new.
Some molds RD 100gr 380 comes to mind, doesn't matter how much you preheat the mold. Run the pot at 750 and pour as fast I can and never over heat the mold and get GREAT boolits from the first pour till I'm done. There is just to much mass and not enough heat hitting the mold to keep it hot enough without going to 750 on the alloy. I lower the heat to 725ish and start to get bad fill out so I increase the heat back to 750 and about 4 or 5 pours later the fillout is good again. I must be doing something right as you can grab a boolit poured in Sept or Dec and they will be within 1gr of each other. And the best part is the boolits kill the pooo out of them paper targets which makes the wife happy.

Like I said, whatever makes you happy. If your alloy is lean on tin and antimony, the advisable 100 or so degrees above full liquidus point might be approaching 750. If it's linotype, a good pot temp for casting is around 575F. I can say one thing, though, two tenths of a grain over or under the median at 200 grains is enough for a cull if I want the best accuracy possible. Even the slightest variation in mould block or sprue plate temperature during a session can have a lot more effect than most realize, but it isn't realized by most because they just don't need that kind of precision accuracy. For a 25-yard revolver boolit that will be sent after cans, steel, or paper, I don't even bother to weigh and don't sort too carefully for visual defects, either.

Gear

[warf73]

If your alloy is lean on tin and antimony, the advisable 100 or so degrees above full liquidus point might be approaching 750

The alloy is pure WW, pre zinc erra. I didn't add tin or antimony to my big melt in 1999 3/4 ton of WW's. I've added tin directly to my pot now and then.

As for the 100* I pour boolits as cold of alloy as my pot will allow, unless its tinny boolits then I turn up the pot.

[lka]

I stopped watching temps close, if casting HG or rifle I put the lee to around 6, 4ish for pure with slugs and buck. May sound weird but I can see and feel if something needs to cool I get purdy bullets even with the hp moulds. I do test the hardness and water cool, although I can't get a difference in hardness when cooling. One thing that did make a huge difference in hardness, before cutting my finger off in July I casted a bunch of .224s, they sat in a bin for 6 months in the open air,, I retested this month and they were way harder. so I guess I'm one of these crazies that does not constantly watch the temperature :D

[Ozarki]

I set my pot at 700 and never change it. Heat moulds on hot plate to that and don,t start until thermometer is up to temp.

[TMenezes]

Wow this thread was started in 2012? I cast mostly at 700 to 725 because most all my molds are aluminum and that is where they cast the best at. If I had a steel mold or used my one brass mold more I suspect I would cast at significantly lower temps from what I hear. But can't say that for sure. One of the fine members here loaned me an Iron mold and am anxious to try it. Planning on starting low and finding out where it casts the best at.

[geargnasher]

Wow this thread was started in 2012? I cast mostly at 700 to 725 because most all my molds are aluminum and that is where they cast the best at. If I had a steel mold or used my one brass mold more I suspect I would cast at significantly lower temps from what I hear. But can't say that for sure. One of the fine members here loaned me an Iron mold and am anxious to try it. Planning on starting low and finding out where it casts the best at.

Somewhere around 400 F.

Ideal alloy temperature will vary according to composition, ambient temperature, and the weather.

Gear

[michael m]

This is by far the " BEST IDEA" I have ever seen on this forum.

Its what you " DO" and not some theory.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Temperature has to vary depending on the size of the mold, the number of cavities and the alloy. Sometimes how much alloy is in the pot will effect the temperature to some degree. One has to always keep an eye on what is coming out of the mold and be ready to make any change necessary to maintain good quality. LLS

[1845greyhounds]

Lead temp 700-800 F (no PID on my pot... yet)
I cast mostly (2) 4-6 cavity, 150 - 165 grain molds as fast as possible in an alternating fashion. I've got the aluminum mold temp probed and it runs best between 325-385F. I could run cooler all around, but it makes opening mold harder. The boolits look good at my current temp.

[RedHawk357Mag]

38 caliber in aluminum usually start around 700ish. 44 caliber 650ish. That's COWW with some tin. Haven't needed North of 700 yet to achieve acceptable bullets but I ladel pour which allows to pour more constant heat than usually available through bottom pours.

[Doc Highwall]

I have been casting for the last several days getting ready to do some tests this summer. The alloy is 30:1 and the three moulds that I have been using are the SAECO #315, a two cavity and a four cavity. The third mould has the gas check feature removed making it a plain base bullet.

The temperature in the garage where I cast has been about 56-66 degrees and I got the best bullets with the PID set at 825 Degrees. I was casting at a rate the I was getting four bullets a minute from the two cavity moulds and eight bullets a minute from the four cavity mould.

After the sprue froze I waited 8-10 seconds before cutting the sprue giving me perfect bases. If I tried cutting it at about 4-5 seconds after the sprue froze I would get tear out with holes in the base of the bullets. I used a small fan to cool the mould while waiting to cut the sprue.

I wish I had a 60 -100 lb pot that is for sure.

[David2011]

Guess I was lucky. My mentor told me where to set the thermostat on the pot and then proceeded to teach me how to keep the mold temperature steady by maintaining an even pace. I do use a thermometer but it't to monitor what's going on in the pot rather than to control it. I frequently do the big bad no-no of adding sprues back to the melt but I try to do it as soon as they're strong enough to pick up with tools so as to minimize cooling of the melt. I take a peek at the thermometer to see if I'm cooling the melt off too much by adding sprues back in and act accordingly.

The real test is to keep the mold at a temperature that gives boolits that make the eyes happy. No matter the melt temperature, the mold can be kept at the right temperature by controlling the pace. I cast some of the purtiest boolits I've made in a long time recently. The alloy was 50/50 COWW and Lino. I know, it's a waste of Lino but the guy that provides the metal wants his 850 fps loads to be topped off with luxury alloy. He keeps bringing WW and Lino faster than he consumes it so how can I refuse? He is getting to where it's hard for him to hold a mold to cast so I cast a couple thousand a year for him. He's a neat old character and I'm happy to help him. Sorry; drifting off topic.

Back to the purty boolits. I cast a batch of Lee 358-158-RF (I HATE the mold but love the boolits) and kept the melt around 650. The pace was kept slow enough that the boolits all came out really shiny. It was 600 of the shiniest boolits I've ever made. The challenge was to go fast enough to not get wrinkles and slow enough to keep 'em shiny.

David

[Texantothecore]

I cast with lead at 750. Pure lead and mostly round ball moulds. I am going to be drilling my Lee molds for a digital probe and I suspect that I will be heating them somewhat hotter as I'm still getting small wrinkles in my round balls.

[Doc Highwall]

You have to make sure that the small wrinkles are not caused by a dirty mould. I washed my SAECO cast-iron moulds with Lemishine and they came out real clean.

[Texantothecore]

I will try cleaning the mould again. I've used the mould four times so it is still in the normal break in period. I have used acetone and windex to clean it but it may pay off to continue to clean it before each use until the wrinkles disappear. Thanks for the tip on Lemishine.

[oger]

Too many variables,mold design and material, casting alloy, ambient temp, I just make the bullets look right.

[Walter Laich]

I find 710* is perfect for fill out and overall bullet quality
using RBS pro-melt

[JeffG]

Typically 710-725 depending on the mold and alloy

[Seeker]

Most all of my molds make good boolits at 650-675 degrees. I just got a new to me 1 banger that will not smooth out the wrinkles until the pot gets up to 725. The first time I used it I must have dropped 50 boolits back into the pot before I smacked myself up side the head and turned the heat up. Oh baby, they sure got purty.

[robg]

No idea ,if they are not wrinkled or frosty and have good bases I'm happy.

[igolfat8]

700*f +-5*

[44man]

I have no understanding of a 400° mold or less with hotter lead. The mold must keep lead molten until filled. A colder mold freezes the lead too fast.
I soak my molds to 500° with lead at 750°. But the mold will get hotter as you pour. To have a mold colder then what lead melts at is silly. Might as well cast on ice.
Alloys have metals that melt WAY higher then lead but in alloy that goes down. Lower then base metal. So if the alloy gets liquid at 600° you still can't pour a good boolit. All this measuring will tell you NOTHING. Casting comes from experience not a thermometer. Why in the world would you drill a mold for a thermometer?
I use steel and aluminum molds side by by side, many times together and see no difference.
I can pick any mold from my cabinet and make perfect without any changes. I can't tell you what my lead is or the mold is, I use the thermo to alloy antimony into the mix at 600°. Ingots. Never comes out when casting.
A PID works but to choke amps gets them HOT. Largest heat sink I could make and they smoked after a while. The amount of amps is high regardless of voltage. Voltage is the push and amps is the amount.

[bilco]

The hotter the better it seems to be for me, anywhere from 675-710.

[44man]

The hotter the better it seems to be for me, anywhere from 675-710.
That is NOT hot unless you talk mold heat.