Removal of misfire

[wmitty]

I'd like some suggestions on how to remove a round which misfired and is stuck in the chamber of a push feed M 70 with a damaged extractor. The cartridge is a .375 H&H with a .37-250 gr RCBS gas checked boolit which failed to fire (apparently a primer possibly damaged by boolet lube). I fired two rounds prior to the misfire with the load of 56 gr 7383. The second round was a hangfire. I had a brass 5/16 welding rod with me as I have had trouble in the past with fired cartridges sticking in the chamber and have tapped them free with the rod. I made a brief attempt at tapping on the meplat of the boolet with the rod to remove the cartridge after the chipped extractor failed to remove the round. This didn't work, and I am at a loss as to how to proceed in removing the stuck round. The boolet was not heavily crimped and I was reluctant to go tapping it into the triple based powder. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I will obtain a new extractor as soon as possible and this may be the only way to remove the round short of barrel removal from the receiver.

[Mooseman]

Air pressure from the muzzle with a rubber tipped air gun, or possibly reach in with a paint can opener and hook the rim and pull it out.
You can Hydraulic it out by filling the barrel with water and a close fitting dowel with a greased cloth patch on the end and tap it in from the muzzle with a mallet smack.

[44man]

How does a round that did not fire get stuck? Was it a force fit from neck sizing? Why shoot with a damaged extractor?
It is dangerous to beat them out and I see you are smart about that.
Now the hang fire was a danger indicator, something wrong with powder or load. I have no info on that powder. Could it be very slow and you are under loading?

[mac60]

Once you get it out, I'd take a real close look at the chamber.

[Jim]

My suggestion is to follow Mooseman's advice on the hydraulic method.

[44man]

My suggestion is to follow Mooseman's advice on the hydraulic method.
That is for sure. No part of your body in line with the bore or at the back of the gun.

[cbrick]

Just as important as removing the stuck round is why it mis-fired.


I fired two rounds prior to the misfire with the load of 56 gr 7383. The second round was a hangfire.
I had a brass 5/16 welding rod with me as I have had trouble in the past with fired cartridges sticking in the chamber.

Hangfires? Cartridges sticking in chamber? Is this the same load that damaged the extractor in the first place?

Our very own Wiljen has an outstanding article on IMR 7383 and I strongly encourage anyone interested in using this surplus IMR powder to read this article, it is full of red flags.

IMR 7383 article from Castpics (http://www.castpics.net/LoadData/7383/default.html)

From the sounds of things I suggest taking it to a gunsmith to get the cartridge removed and get the rifle repaired. Then give some serious thought to the powder and load.

Rick

[popper]

You mean FTF, not hangfire? If it hasn't gone off yet, it's a FTF. Unless triple based powder will detonate by hammer blow, just bang it out. You can use oil or water if the hydraulic methods is used, but it is messy. Clamp in a vise with nothing in front or behind for a long distance, but it will probably blow the case head off. Sounds like that one needs some TLC by a GOOD gunsmith or some check into reloading technique.

[243winxb]

Remove bolt & cover the area with soft padding before pushing it out. How not to do it, with photos. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=572186 http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n420/joe1944usa/223Kaboom.jpg

[blackthorn]

Remove the bolt, fill the barrel with ATF/Acetone (mix), or Kroil, Start a soft lead slug into the muzzle, secure the rifle (vertically or horizontally) and use the soft lead slug to "hydrolic" the stuck cartridge out. Wrap the reciever end in absorbant material and there will be very little mess.

[Mooseman]

ATF /acetone mix ? Thats flammable and the vapors are explosive from a slight spark. No need to have a big oily mess when plain water wont hurt a thing and is safer, if compressed air isnt available. A rag stuck in the Receiver will cushion the cartridge as it exits the chamber. It only needs to back out 1/2 inch or so to fall out.

[popper]

Be sure to use safety glasses at least with compressed air. Don't see a problem with just pounding it out with a big rod. The advantage to the hydraulic method would be to get fluid between the case and chamber, a little lube and maybe shrink the case to get it out.

[BeeMan]

A guess here is that 56 grains of 7383 milsurp powder is too light for the 375 H&H. Read the article on castpics, mentioned above. Also search for posts by Ricochet and Maven on the powder. Linstrum was another knowledgeable source for 7383 data.

Do not use a wooden dowel unless you want to risk another jam to undo. Suggestion: a 5/16 inch metal rod with electrical tape wrapped to just fit the bore, about every 6 inches or so. Wrap a snug fitting patch on the end of the rod and use this as a piston on a short column of liquid. Water may work but a high viscosity heavy oil might make a better seal between the patched rod end and the bore.

[Blammer]

remove bolt, pour two table spoons of water down the barrel. get a tight fitting patched Jag, WET it. Push it down the barrel until it meets the water you poured in, then hit your ramrod, with jag with a 2lb hammer sharply, should pop it out nicely.

[wmitty]

The round which failed to fire was loaded in a once fired case, which had been fired in another rifle. It was not a tight fit when placed in the chamber. I suspect the boolet engaged the rifling to some extent and the extractor simply slipped over the case rim when I tried to extract it. The extractor had been chipped before by trying to remove stuck cases, so I knew there was a chance it wouldn't extract the case. I did not anticipate the failure of the primer to ignite the powder charge. I had no trouble with this load in September, but the ambient temp was some 30 degrees higher. I will attempt the removal of case by hydraulic pressure.

[wmitty]

I thank you gentlemen, for the suggestions. I reduced a Hornady .40 cal 180 gr swaged lead bullet to .377" and after adding a small quantity of ATF to the bore, I tapped the slug flush with a plastic mallet and then on down the bore with the aforementioned brass rod. The feel of the tapping became "spongy" just before the cartridge popped out of the chamber. Roughly 1/4" of the boolet's ogive remained protruding from the case neck - I believe the base is resting on the powder charge. Haven't had a chance to perform investigation on failure to fire.

Thanks!