32 Special starting to show some slippage

[OverMax]

I have a Win 94 in 32 Special that maybe coming to the end of its usefulness. (barrel rifling light looking in appearance and perhaps worn a bit to much) I don't know that much about gunsmithing and would like to repair and keep its original caliber. So perhaps many of you could offer a remark just what is available to me in a Shop services to resolve the situation? (who, what, where and how much.) I've been told it has a 1-16 twist. Other than shooting it and keeping it clean. Oh, and the occasional open sight adjustments. That's all I know in the realm of Gunsmithing.

[pietro]

Other than shooting it and keeping it clean. Oh, and the occasional open sight adjustments. That's all I know in the realm of Gunsmithing.


What leads you to believe it's end is near ?

Has the accuracy fallen off dramatically ?

Is it throwing an occassional "flier", when you shoot it for "group" ?

Have you had anyone else, possibly someone that can shoot it better, target the rifle ?

What appears to you, worn rifling, may be simply shallow rifling or lead-filled grooves (from shooting unjacketed lead boolits), for instance.


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[OverMax]

What leads you to believe it's end is near? If its accuracy fall to a point where its totally unacceptable. What purpose can it serve.
Has the accuracy fallen off dramatically ? Oh yaw.
Is it throwing an occassional "flier", when you shoot it for "group" ? Not much of a group seen
Have you had anyone else, possibly someone that can shoot it better, target the rifle ? Yes. No difference.

What appears to you, worn rifling, may be simply shallow rifling or lead-filled grooves (from shooting unjacketed lead boolits), for instance. I own two of these 32s. This one I'm speaking of has had the most use. I don't think the rifle has seen much cast lead. But I do know it has seen more than its fair share of jacketed.

I've read that many high speed cartridges can copper foul a barrel some. If that is true. At a 32s speed can it's barrel also copper foul?

[BCRider]

Something to check as a first try would be to see if you can insert a the nose of a bullet into the muzzle and if it can be pushed in easily with finger pressure. That would be a sign that the rifling is well worn down. I've seen this situation with a couple of well worn and pitted rimfire barrels that I've got which are waiting for my shop setup to be finished so that I can bore them out and reline them. Since you've got two of these rifles and presumably the other shoots just fine you can try this bullet fitting check and see how the two bores compare.

As for the copper fouling issue the easy way to check is to clean the bore with a copper cleaner such as Wipe Out. If there's copper fouling this stuff will dissolve it and you'll see the patches coming out strongly blue for a while until the copper is gone.

[Pepe Ray]

This is a common problem with all old rifles that were cleaned from the muzzle end. It is the crown of the muzzle
that wears out from repeated cleaning and throws your boolets all over. I'd wager big bucks that that is the problem.
Carefull examination under magnification is required. And a muzzle protector for all of your cleaning projects.
Pepe Ray

[OverMax]

Pepe Ray

It is the crown of the muzzle that wears out from repeated cleaning Sounds reasonable as this rifles previous owner was old school in his ways. And who in years past were willing to pull the rifles bolt before cleaning on a Model 94. If I check the muzzle. Just what should I be aware of/looking for? (missing rifling, oblong, just what please.) I do happen to have a hand held magnification glass to use thanks

BCRider: I'll gave that bullet press deal a try and see and let you all know how it went. thanks

[smkummer]

If its is muzzle worn, it might be brought back to life with a "re-crown".

[runfiverun]

you'll see nicks and gouges.
sometimes pushing a Q-tip in and out of the bbl will show nicks and such you can't really see.
i have a 32 that was carried a lot,and cleaned from the muzzle it is a little bugeled at the muzzle,the rifling is shallow too.
i just shoot 324 boolits in it and keep the velocity in the 2k range.

[Pepe Ray]

Muzzle damage can occur in several ways but the most common is cleaning rod wear. It's obvious IF your aware of the
danger and can closly examin under good light . Magnification helps greatly. It''s possible that chipping could occur but
the most common wear is smooth, flairing outward. At first it may seem to be evenly distributed around the opening but,
it would be impossible to be that. Recrowning is the least expensive cure. That will vary depending on how DEEP the wear goes down the bore. On my old Win 38-55 it was worn so deep I couldnt find uniform lands in less than 3/8th. inch. I tried to ream the barrel to that depth but failed. I could have cut off the end of the bbl but it would have taken the cut to behind the front sight. I chose to have the bbl relined. The rifle was inherited and never to be a collector piece. It's now a fine shooter.
That's my story AISTI.
Good luck with your rifle.
Pepe Ray

[OverMax]

Pepe Ray
Curious: To reline. How well / long will that hold up on a rifle used a few times a year Say 10-15 shots max? Would my rifle required shooting cast from then on? (would cast be a benefit or not? to the relining job) thanks,

O/M

[runfiverun]

there's a lot of relined model 92's and arisaka's out there, and i'd bet most have never seen a cast boolit.

[izzyjoe]

another option is you could have it rebored to .35 cal. or 38-55.

[Pepe Ray]

R5R & Izzyjoe---All good info.
My old rifle was greatly improved by relining. Can pass it on now. As I recall it cost me a couple of "C" notes. So, unless there's a lot of sentimental stuff involved here, I'd suggest a cut and recrown. A real "Bubber" could do it himself.[smilie=s:
Pepe Ray

[BCRider]

Or that counterbore that Pepe was considering if the damage extends in under the front sight base. Otherwise if you're looking at a bob job to cut the barrel back to undamaged rifling and it ends up being at the front sight dovetail you pretty much then need to cut it back far enough to remove the dovetail completely and have a new one cut.

The only trouble with counter boring is that it leaves the new crown down at the end of a bit of a tube. I wonder about the accuracy what with the gases not being able to smoothly disperse to the sides such as with a regular crown. Certainly care would be needed to ensure that the counter bore is axial with the rifling bore so that the confined gas is symetrical.

[OverMax]

Sorry for not answering my thread. Been gone for the last 6-days muzzle hunting.

I suppose I'll have to hunt up a very good gunsmith and let him determine what is needed. The only thing I would wish when the time comes.> (A faster twist rate.) So my grandsons won't have this rifles disability to deal with again. I'm kind of against cutting its crown and would rather (reline) I think for the time being. "Kind of like that old 32-Special Caliber. Fun rifle."