Cannot stop thinking about it, i am diving in!

[Gtek]

I have read stickies and other info trying to educate myself as much as possible. This like all other things we encounter opinions will run both sides of line. I would like to start with a .30 cal pill and then my mind goes multiple directions beyond this point. I have no problem calling one of the custom boys and having something made, the problem is what. I would like something that is hunt worthy with a nice meplat, of course I also want a target nose also. Maybe same pill design, just different noses with one / two sets of blocks. I was thinking smooth side .3015" running somewhere between 170-200 gr, or should I go .301"? I read bore + 0.0, + .005,+ .001-.002, you read enough it starts getting fuzzy all rolled together. Anybody wish to chime in? Thanks in advance. Gtek

[geargnasher]

You don't mention the cartridge you're thinking of starting with, that would help. If you read the stickies you should have noted that none of us have had very good luck with smooth-sided cores and smokeless powder.

Go back and read over Pdawg Shooter's sticky. Between his original post and mine further down where I basically just expanded on his concept there is everything you need to know for .30-caliber success without the guesswork.

Gear

[Gtek]

Thanks, geargnasher. has anyone tried the 311041, 311299 sized down and wrapped? I have these. Gtek

[geargnasher]

Both good ones for .30-'06. Size to .0015" over bore, patch with two wraps of wet 16-lb paper so it goes just past the break in the ogive, twist the tail, dry, clip tail, lube with whatever and size to the throat diameter.

Gear

[pdawg_shooter]

IMHO, smooth sided bullets are NOT the way to go. I have had and sold a number of molds for smooth sided bullets. A grooved bullet sized to YOUR bore and patched back up works way better.

[303Guy]

If you are going to try smooth sides then roll them between two files to grip the paper. The core should be a shade over bore size.

Another trick I've thought of but not tried yet is to create a 'stepped taper' mold with small but sharp steps to form gripping edges. (The seating base section would be parallel with a rebate at the base edge if the mold allows it.

A split mold is way faster and easier to use and can provide any side options you desire. Gear has a neat shallow groove design. It's all in the sticky.

A smooth side mold is easy to make if you happen to have a lathe and feel like experimenting. I wouldn't buy a smooth side mold. Once you start spending money then rather get the 'real thing'. Pdog is the paper patch guru and he says no smooth side.

[pdawg_shooter]

Dont know about being a "guru" but I have made just about every mistake a fellow can over the last 40+ years of patching.If I can help someone over the bumps so he dont get discouraged I am glad to try!!

[edwin41]

yes... you can call pdawg the guru of paperpatching...
i also read the sticky ... over and over again.

how did you think i got my good results so fast ?

[ovendoctor]

the 311644 190 gr is showing great promise
testing is suspended till spring [28'' of snow]

Doc.