Removing a stuck bullet

[Jim]

I've been doing a good bit of subsonic testing recently with my H&R 223. When I start with a new bullet/boolit powder combination, I load several rounds with diminishing charges of powder to find the lowest charge that will expel the bullet from the barrel. This eventually results in sticking a bullet.

I've come up with a method that works really well for me in getting the stuck bullet out. I set up my redneck lathe (electric drill in a vice) and put the end adaptor section of a .22 caliber ramrod in the drill, female end out. I set the drill to turning and took down the threaded end until there was only a dimple left showing.

http://floydpics.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/dscn1274-e1351100879801.jpg

I put the rifle barrel in a rubber jawed carpenter's vise, muzzle down and dribbled a bit of 90 weight oil in the chamber. After a few minutes, I relocated the barrel to horizontal, placed the ramrod with adaptor in the muzzle and snugged it up against the nose of the bullet. With a light weight rubber mallet, I gently tapped on the handle of the ramrod and bullet backed right out.

http://floydpics.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/dscn1275-e1351100925180.jpg

It's definitely different, but it works, right?

[Artful]

Good job - if the chrony shows drops below 800 fps on a rifle load with jacketed better stop and rethink.

And better than breaking a hardwood dowel off in there or mushrooming an aluminum cleaning rod

Don't ask :evil:

[runfiverun]

well theres your problem..
you got copper all over the lead..
i bought a piece of cold rolled rod and taped it to ride the lands then just drop that in the bbl and tap the bullet out with a rawhide mallet.
for boolits that stay in the rifling when the round is de-chambered i can usually just drop the rod on top and give the end a little bounce with my hand.

[JeffinNZ]

Interesting marks at the termination of the rifling marks over the boat tail.

[firefly1957]

Thanks for your tip.

Jeff i believe the interesting marks are displaced copper that would be "blown of the bullet at the muzzle by normal pressure loads.

[Jim]

Interesting marks at the termination of the rifling marks over the boat tail.

When I stick a bullet, first thing I do is determine where it is in the barrel. That tells me if I need to drive foreward or rearward. This one was about three inches forward of the chamber.

Art, the testing I'm doing is just above the bottom of the window. I have to find the bottom to know where to start. Therefore, I have to stick one to find that.

[Blacksmith]

I think I might use brass rather than steel.

[clodhopper]

I'm a fan of the brass rod also, they sure are proud of them down at the hardware store.

[JIMinPHX]

I've known a few guys that put a little Bullseye in a primed piece of brass with no slug & use that to blow the stuck boolit out of the barrel. I'm not aware of anyone having pressure tested that method, but it has been known to work more than once.

[Boerrancher]

I have several brass rods that I use to drive out stuck cases and stuck boolits. We won't discuss how hot I load in testing that gives me stuck cases. At least I am not shaking the spent primer out of the action after I open the bolt anymore :twisted:

Best wishes,

Joe

[Dean D.]

I use a steel rod of appropriate diameter covered in 1-2 layers of good quality electrical tape. Works good for me.

[stubshaft]

See all of the problems associated with condoms!

Of course if you are going for subsonic loads, you win...zero FPS.

[jonk]

I've known a few guys that put a little Bullseye in a primed piece of brass with no slug & use that to blow the stuck boolit out of the barrel. I'm not aware of anyone having pressure tested that method, but it has been known to work more than once.

That was good enough for Col. Julian Hatcher, so it's good enough for me.

[blackthorn]

^^^^Just sart real low and work up!