New here and Quick question.....

[Budda]

Hello all, new to reloading. Have wanted to roll my own for some time. I LOVE the .38/.357 mag as I have 3 wheel guns already and plan to add more....Anyway. For just because of price and coolness factor I ordered a Lee Loader to start on the cheap and Learn the basics. I have loaded on a single stage press before with my father in law, and have been hooked ever since. It was as much fun as shooting them!! Ok...I digress, I want to buy some for just plinking....two of my wheel guns are snubbies. I think a 158grn semi wad cutter is a good place to start, my question is what hardness should I start with? I will load up to plus P specs but want to avoid leading....I have lurked for days here but can not find a strait answer....up to 900 fps, do I need a gas check? I do have some .357 brass I want to do some average mag pressures in....can I find the "magic boolit" that does it all?? Also, this forum is great information...but if I could make a sticky recommendation... Could we have a "reloading for dummies/newbs" where there are full definitions and concrete answers? Like

"when a gas check is needed" (definition here)

"Soft boolits are for" (definition here)

"hard boolits are for (definition here)

and so on....I found the abbreviations list but it lacked the depth I was seeking.

FWWEEEW!! I am long winded....and digress again....

Question #1....what hardness of what type should I purchase (500) to start with I want to load to 17,000-19,000 psi I will use my Lee Loader and a SCALE and powder measure and current load manuals I will also measure with the scale to see what the dipper actually weighs and load to some of those specs as well just to get used to it, I have no problem using the dipper method either just I understand that the one that comes with the kit is on the lower end of the low side for pressure.....or am I over thinking the whole thing.

Thanks for reading my long winded post.

B.C.:killingpc

[canyon-ghost]

Commercial hard cast is plenty hard enough for magnum velocities. In fact, sometimes it can be too hard.

[Budda]

Commercial hard cast is plenty hard enough for magnum velocities. In fact, sometimes it can be too hard.

That is my point...What is "too hard"

Do I need a gas check to go from 1000-1300fps?

What is "too soft"

I was just hoping to find basic newb info past abbreviation definitions.

A new guide for dummies like me.

THX.

B.C.

[Philngruvy]

Hi Budda, I have a S&W 642 which I reload for. I cast 158 gr. semi wad cutters and wadcutters from range lead and are plain base, not gas checked. I am using a Lee Pro 1000 and have had great success with it. Kudos to Lee Precision. Sorry to have lost them as a sponsor on this site. I am using Bullseye, can't remember the exact amount but it is under 4 grns. Anyway, I was at a range in Dade City , Fl, shooting this revolver at 25 feet. Keep in mind it has a 2" barrell and was designed to be a close range self defense weapon (7' type range). I was shooting my wadcutter reloads and had groups in the 2 1/2" - 3" range. I wasn't really happy with that but the RO came up to me when the range went cold and complimented me on my shooting. :) I showed him my reloads and his reply was that he was very impressed since the gun was not intended to be used at that range (25'). Anyway, for what it's worth, proceed with reloading and have fun.

[1Shirt]

Possibly need a gas check! Depends on fit of boolit!
1Shirt!

[starmac]

Other guys here know way more than I do. I never used a lee loader for pistol ammo, but did for rifle, and my experience was the reloaded rounds were good to go back to the gun they were originally shot in, and would not work in some other guns.
I'm thinking a guy can get a cheap lee challenger or the like for around the same money as the lee loader. I am in no way knocking the lee loader, but using the ammo in multiple guns, mixing the brass up can be a problem. This may or may not be true in revolvers.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

regarding Hardness and pressure....at the bottom of the page is a link to cast bullet notes from lasc.com that should answer some of your questions
OR use this link
http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

There is no "concrete answers" like you are looking for.
there are just too many variables.

Another great read is "lyman cast bullet handbook 4th edition"
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/867465/lyman-cast-bullet-handbook-4th-edition-book
Good Luck,
Jon

[**oneshot**]

Welcome Budda!

Of all the things I have learned here, Boolit fit is king. Slug your barrel and cylinder throats. Provided your throats aren't smaller than the barrel, Size your boolits to be a snug thumb push through the cylinder throat.

[Mal Paso]

You don't need gas checks in pistols except for hot loads of fast powders and there's no reason to go there. Fast powders like Bullseye for light loads, Slow powders like Alliant 2400 for Magnum Loads and Powders like Unique and AA#5 for mid loads. Back when I bought cast nobody said how hard or what their alloy was. Get .358" to get started. At some point you'll want to slug barrels and throats like the guys said but most likely your bores are standard and .001" over is good.

Have Fun!

[runfiverun]

a bhn of 10-12 will handle velocity's of 900-1300 with no problems.
in fact it will handle down to 700 fps easily.
the others have covered the boolit- throat relationship.

[Budda]

Thanks guys....I bought a box of 500 125grn cast lead pre lubed from Cheyenne cast for $36.00 even. I am now looking for powder.....

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Hi and welcome to the forum. Loading for the 38/357 is not complicated; there is loading info around by the ton regardless of whether one is shooting a snubbie or a long barrel. Unless you are running your loads at more than 1300 fps or even hotter you do not need harder bullets than 10-12 BHN or gas checks. You will need to have some degree of roll crimp to prevent forward movement of the bullets in the cylinder; just enough to do the job. Crimping isn't the greatest for long case life so the less the better. On the loading part, I am not a fan of Lee loaders although some folks like them. They make perfectly good and functional ammo, but they are slow and that is ok as long as you do not have a lot of ammo to load. I tried a couple way back when i could not come up with the $$$ for other arrangements and they worked ok, but I never liked and never will like the idea of hammering (on) primers in. You won't like it at all when one goes off. Budget limitations...well understood here, but if and when you move into the press world you'll like the convenience a whole lot better. On the subject of bullets; usually one shoots a round nose or a semi-wadcutter or a full wadcutter. The latter most often weighs around 148 grains and is used to shoot target because it cuts nice clean holes in the target and they are easier to score. The RN's and SWC's generally go around 158 grains and are preferred for smacking things. There is a vast selection of molds made by all the major mold makers to choose from. Loading to +P specs or full house won't always translate into the best grouping, but you have to try to know. I shot a lot of Bullseye comp with 38/357 and the recoil was always considered an enemy, but that part of it is strictly your call. if you go to regular loading dies, choose carbide and dies for 38 special as those will also load the 357 simply by lowering the die. (or by putting a 1/10th" shim washer in under the lock ring to raise the die for 357). A scale is a must...sooner or later, but a dipper will work as long as you do/use it right. The best thing is a good powder measure (stress good) and a good scale to keep the measure honest. Think safety first...always. 900fps is not hot and for that you do not need hard bullets, but not soft ones. "Hard" is tough to scratch easily with a fingernail and "soft" (like in pure lead) scratches easy. Leading is not fun...especially to remove.. so avoid it. On this forum, no question is ever a dumb question so just keep asking questions and someone will always help you; that is why we never had to run a "learners corner". We all started out at square one and made mistakes along the way in every aspect of the hobby/sport. So make yourself at home. LLS

[Budda]

Hi and welcome to the forum. Loading for the 38/357 is not complicated; there is loading info around by the ton regardless of whether one is shooting a snubbie or a long barrel. Unless you are running your loads at more than 1300 fps or even hotter you do not need harder bullets than 10-12 BHN or gas checks. You will need to have some degree of roll crimp to prevent forward movement of the bullets in the cylinder; just enough to do the job. Crimping isn't the greatest for long case life so the less the better. On the loading part, I am not a fan of Lee loaders although some folks like them. They make perfectly good and functional ammo, but they are slow and that is ok as long as you do not have a lot of ammo to load. I tried a couple way back when i could not come up with the $$$ for other arrangements and they worked ok, but I never liked and never will like the idea of hammering (on) primers in. You won't like it at all when one goes off. Budget limitations...well understood here, but if and when you move into the press world you'll like the convenience a whole lot better. On the subject of bullets; usually one shoots a round nose or a semi-wadcutter or a full wadcutter. The latter most often weighs around 148 grains and is used to shoot target because it cuts nice clean holes in the target and they are easier to score. The RN's and SWC's generally go around 158 grains and are preferred for smacking things. There is a vast selection of molds made by all the major mold makers to choose from. Loading to +P specs or full house won't always translate into the best grouping, but you have to try to know. I shot a lot of Bullseye comp with 38/357 and the recoil was always considered an enemy, but that part of it is strictly your call. if you go to regular loading dies, choose carbide and dies for 38 special as those will also load the 357 simply by lowering the die. (or by putting a 1/10th" shim washer in under the lock ring to raise the die for 357). A scale is a must...sooner or later, but a dipper will work as long as you do/use it right. The best thing is a good powder measure (stress good) and a good scale to keep the measure honest. Think safety first...always. 900fps is not hot and for that you do not need hard bullets, but not soft ones. "Hard" is tough to scratch easily with a fingernail and "soft" (like in pure lead) scratches easy. Leading is not fun...especially to remove.. so avoid it. On this forum, no question is ever a dumb question so just keep asking questions and someone will always help you; that is why we never had to run a "learners corner". We all started out at square one and made mistakes along the way in every aspect of the hobby/sport. So make yourself at home. LLS

Thanks LLS, As long as you guys don't care to answer all of my dumb questions. I will try some different powders and pressures, I am looking for a balance of bang and accuracy. I don't care for 700fps weenie loads...if I wanted that I would shoot .22s But I am not looking for a round that makes my nose bleed when I touch it off either...I would like about 900-1000 fps out of my 4" Colt.

B.C.

[MtGun44]

I load for .44 mag and .357 mag without gas checks, ever. Max velocity is entirely
possible with a good design boolit, good lube and good fit.

I can do it in .357 at 8 BHN, which many will tell you is "too soft" and "impossible". Not
in my experience.

Bill

[runfiverun]

in your little loader kit the scoop will be a caertain cc size.
there will be some load data included.
this data will give you an approximate amount of powder that the little scoop will hold.
for the 38/357 it will be somewhere between 3 and 5 grs of powder.
go with the powder nearer the 4-4.5 gr end.
this way a little more won't be an over load,learning the scoop and getting consistent amounts will help you immensley.
the powder will be something like unique,unversal,aa#5 ,or green-dot.

[Echo]

Thanks LLS, As long as you guys don't care to answer all of my dumb questions. I will try some different powders and pressures, I am looking for a balance of bang and accuracy. I don't care for 700fps weenie loads...if I wanted that I would shoot .22s But I am not looking for a round that makes my nose bleed when I touch it off either...I would like about 900-1000 fps out of my 4" Colt.

B.C.

Accuracy should have the highest priority - making noise, generating recoil, may be impressive to some, but hitting what one aims at is uppermost in importance. Often, best accuracy can be found near the max loads for certain (generally Magnum) cartridges.
I was with my son at our local range, and a pistol shooter down at the end of the line was shooting some sort of Magnum. Son Rick commented that the shooter was shooting a 'hot' load. I watched - when he shot, there was a ball of fire at the muzzle, but there was little recoil. He had loaded a very slow powder that hadn't fully burned before the projectile cleared the muzzle. Showy, but not 'hot'. Fairly useless, IMHO.

[gwpercle]

Other guys here know way more than I do. I never used a lee loader for pistol ammo, but did for rifle, and my experience was the reloaded rounds were good to go back to the gun they were originally shot in, and would not work in some other guns.
I'm thinking a guy can get a cheap lee challenger or the like for around the same money as the lee loader. I am in no way knocking the lee loader, but using the ammo in multiple guns, mixing the brass up can be a problem. This may or may not be true in revolvers.

In rifle the Lee loader only neck sizes ( unless the rifle case is straight sided ) hence the not rechambering in another firearm thing. But pistol cases are generally straight sided ( 38 spcl / 357 mag. ) they get properly resized and will generally chamber in other / all revolvers. Take a look at a Lee Hand Press. Very compact , use with standard loading dies and elimenates all that " whack a mole " pounding with a mallet. I have two and use them all the time even though I have bench mounted presses in my out building reloading shed.

gary

[Beerd]

Thanks guys....I bought a box of 500 125grn cast lead pre lubed from Cheyenne cast for $36.00 even. I am now looking for powder.....

For a beginner, look no farther than Unique.
..

[Budda]

I am buying the Full Lee powder measure set. I am going to load some with varying powders and then go from there. My father in law has a bunch of powders and load data....I I will find one with a scale then match that to a Lee Dipper size and go from there.

[bruce drake]

The LEE powder measure set will come with a sliding bar chart listing what the various powders will approximiately scoop out with each graduated measuring cup.

Or you can just get a LEE Reloading Manual which details exactly what each scoops pulls out in a 2 page chart in the book. The chart covers 90% of the available powders and you can get additional data on the newer powders as well from thier help line.