Stock finish

[Gunslinger1911]

Hello all,

I've been in the process of building a 36 cal Kentucky long rifle (for a couple years - don't ask ....lol)

Have a nice looking maple full stock, not awsome, but purdy.

I'd like to put a finish on that dosn't darken the wood - I think it will look good with light wood, brass and blued steel.

Any ideas out there ?

Thanks,
Ross

[newton]

Maybe just some blonde beeswax? Kick some BLO in, but it might darken it some. I redid a birch stock like that and it was purdy for being just birch. I am no expert though. Just my .02

[docone31]

Aqua Fortis for stain, then scraped, then BLO with Danish Dryers.
Looks real good.

[Omnivore]

I've gotten awesome results with several applications of Watco Danish Oil Finish, using 600 grit and steel wool between applications. Really flood it on, and keep adding oil as it absorbs, paying special attentiopn to any end grain as it really sucks it up there. Doesn't darken the wood much more than a clear varnish. Try it on a scrap piece-- put a nice finish on it and see what you think. One application looks like a basic oil fnish, but you get more luster with more applications. Seven or so applications, more or less depending on the wood, will give a high gloss. Let cure for at least a week, more if you live in humid conditions, between applications. You want it hard enough to sand or wool it and get dust instead of gum. I use it on stained alder and birch powder horn plugs (more porus than typical sugar maple) and I've also used it on blonde white and red oak, with very little darkening-- mostly the "darkening" is just due to the wetting effect. The color of the oil is a light amber clear.

It's not real resistant to water though, so I've been meaning to try a similar product for marine applications called Teak Oil Finish (I don't recall who makes it). Both are designed to penetrate deeply into the wood rather than sit on top of it, and they’re easy to touch up if you get a scratch or a ding. I used the teak oil finish on a staircase I have outdoors and it has held up though one North Idaho winter very well, but I haven’t tried it on anything with a fine finish.

Then there's always plain old linseed oil, which won't darken all that much, trhough every piece of wood is different. I have a nice satin, or less than satin finish on a walnut M1A stock from two flood-coat applications of linseed oil, followed after curing by steel wool with a little mineral spirits, and then another curing period. It darkened the walnut some, but it is nice. I used boiled.

If you're going for blonde, I'd try the Watco Danish Oil. If you've stained it, I'd try it anyway, but understand that the stain will actually lighten a little bit with each application of the oil, as there is some loss of stain by dissolution upon application and wiping, and by abbrasion between applications. So if I want a deep color stained finish I really have to flood the wood with stain, more than once, so after it lightens it's still a deep color.

[gnoahhh]

Good advice there. Don't over-think it though. I have a maple stocked ML pistol that I scratch built many years ago that has had nothing put on it but paste wax as a finish. There must be a hundred coats on it by now and it looks stunning, if I say so myself.

I did a carpentry job for a network news celebrity a few years ago in which I had to replace some burn scarred pieces of maple flooring in his house. The original flooring, laid in the early 60's, had never been finished with anything other than paste wax which I naturally re-used. After decades of foot traffic, that floor has held up beautifully (except where an exploding movie lamp bulb inflicted the mentioned burn marks), and has attained a honey colored patina that is gorgeous.

Sometimes the simplest approach is the best approach.

[colonelhogan44]

Minwax Antique Oil finish. It's beautiful and very hard and durable.

Before:

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/colonelhogan44/100_5632.jpg

After:

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/colonelhogan44/100_5672.jpg

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/colonelhogan44/100_5675.jpg

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/colonelhogan44/100_5677.jpg

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/colonelhogan44/100_5678.jpg

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/colonelhogan44/100_5682.jpg

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss301/colonelhogan44/100_5681.jpg

I can send you a link to the application instructions if you're interested. (Hint - I found them stickied on the gunsmithing forum at THR)

[Gunslinger1911]

Thanks guys ! I'll try these ideas on some scraps.

gnoahhh - just rub the wax (like Johnsons floor wax used in 45/45/10 tumble lube ?) in with enough speed to generate a little heat ?

Colonel - nice wood ! ya shoot me the link if you would .

[OverMax]

Track of the Wolf sell kit guns. I'm reasonably certain they could answer your question. Track also has a {Live Chat Line on there web site.} Otherwise peruse Brownells web site for the info. I myself. I'd hang it and spray a few very light level coats of a good Polyurethane varnish and rub the last coat out after the paints fully cured with rotten stone powder and water. Doing so brings out the sheen of your varnish and gives it depth. I wouldn't use pumice stone powder or steel wool for this project unless you have allot of dust particles and unevenness seen on your paint surface. Good luck with your project Sir.

O/M

[flounderman]

I wouldn't put anything on it but clear spar urethane and I would rub it on with my hand, not using much at any one time. several applications, with light sanding between coats with fine sandpaper. you end up with a waterproof finish that is about bullet proof when it hardens and it doesn't darken with age or crack. using stain or sealer under it could affect the way it adheres. just put a spot of it on the stock and hub it with your hand. comes in spray cans and you can spray the first coat and sand it after it drys but go light after the first coat.

[gnoahhh]

T

gnoahhh - just rub the wax (like Johnsons floor wax used in 45/45/10 tumble lube ?) in with enough speed to generate a little heat ?




Bingo.

[Gunslinger1911]

gnoahhh - great ! I'm going to try this on some scrap !

overmax - Track of the Wolf is who I put my "kit" together from, they were a huge help when I started this 2 years ago, I didn't even think of asking them !

ya, 2 years !! Had fun getting all the parts I wanted, actually enjoyed cleaning up the brass pieces (when they say "straight from the mould - they ain't kiddin !), got the lock and barrel fit pretty good if I do say so (lol). Started inletting the fancy wedge "keepers ?", star shaped no less and the patch box (very fancey) - found out I'm not so good at minute inletting !!!!!!!!!!! Had to back away before I did something stupid.

Have it on a wagon wheel above the fireplace with a 50 Hawkin and a 45/70 Sharps - looks cool ! Been looking at it for a while thinking it was time to get back at it. Figured I'd dip my toes in and ask questions ..........................

This site is great ! Your replys have got me stoked again to "git er done" ..... that and my son REALLY wants to shoot it !!

Thanks guys !
Ross

[Wayne Smith]

I use pure tung oil cut with real thinner first at 50/50 to seal, sanded in with increasingly fine sandpaper. As the oil mix gets thicker from standing and the thinner gassing off I get into rubbing it in rather than sanding it in. I will sand to about a 1000 grit, though. This gives me a glass smooth wood/hardened tug oil that I will rub the thickened tung oil into until I get the finish I want. This can take a couple of weeks, sometimes longer if I can only work on it on the weekend. Usually I can put one coat on it a day in dry weather, sometimes it doesn't dry enough for another coat for a few days to a week depending on the humidity.