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View Full Version : Lyman 4500 & Beveled Boolits - Solved!



Hastings
09-30-2012, 12:56 PM
The problem I'm referring to being solved is the beveled part of the boolit base being filled with lube as if it were a lube groove. I've tried everything suggested before on this and other forums such as the Styrofoam and paper disks, and even rubber, soft plastic, rubber o-rings, and a number of other materials with only varying degrees of success.

The boolit I'm lubing is the Lyman #356637 9mm which has a pretty pronounced bevel. I gave up long ago using the Lyman with these, and went to pan lubing and shooting them as-cast without resizing instead. Then the other day I came up with the idea of using some sort of adapter or gasket that's the exact shape of the boolit base, bevel included. Then effectively they wouldn't even have a bevel during the lube process.

I used a sized boolit as my mold, and simply wrapped the bottom end of it with a thin strip of paper made sticky with a glue stick. The paper stuck beyond the base about 1/8th of an inch or whatever I thought was thick enough to give me a strong enough adapter. Then I filled it with J-B Weld, and ensured that the bevel part was filled and didn't have air bubbles by poking it down with a toothpick. Then I stood the bullet nose up, and let it dry for a day. Then I peeled off the paper and unstuck the J-B Weld gasket/adapter from the boolit base. It looks like a shallow little cup.

This I just placed it on the base of a boolit and sized it. The adapter cup stays in the Lyman and the boolit came out without even a hint of lube near the base. It turned out that it works this good only with absolutely perfect boolits. In order for it to be more forgiving, I discovered that if you just put a piece of paper over the hole with the adapter and place a boolit on top then push it into the sizer, it creates a paper lining in the adapter cup that forms itself better to the more imperfect boolit bases since even a tiny imperfection can let lube into places where you don't want it. I've sized about 1,400 boolits so far, and I can finally do them as fast as I can place them and pull the handle - and not a hint of lube anywhere but in the lube groove!

Next I'm going to experiment with epoxy resins and other materials that may be strong enough yet better mold to the natural imperfections and microscopic differences between the bullet and the base.

pistolshooter
10-01-2012, 09:35 PM
So, does the paper wrap up the sides of the boolit, then get filled with JB Weld? (how did we ever live without JB Weld and duct tape?) I guess the 1/8 inch is throwing me off. How long do they last before they have to be replaced? I need to give this a try. I cast 2 different boolits with bevel bases, and have used the egg carton cutout method, which works but doesn't last long before you have to replace them.

smokemjoe
10-01-2012, 09:43 PM
I also had the same troubles, a mess, Having a lathe I made a new pin but cut a counter bore in the top of the pin and left a 30 deg. for the bullet to sit in, No more grease on the bullet now.

Hastings
10-02-2012, 05:18 PM
Well I've done a few thousand so far without replacing it. It still seems to be in good shape. Sadly I didn't take any pictures doing it the first time, but I plan on making some with epoxy as another experiment exactly the same way I did it with J-B Weld. I'll follow up with some photos of the procedure and it will probably be a lot clearer than what I can easily explain.

I think unless it breaks, it should be a permanent solution. It sure is nice to do beveled boolits the same rate as flat based ones for once. I don't even bother looking to see if any lube is stuck to the bevel anymore.

pistolshooter
10-03-2012, 12:09 AM
I am going to have to give this a try. I like the BB boolits, but dread lubing them. smokemjoe has a great idea if I only had a lathe!

Hastings
10-04-2012, 05:56 PM
Alright, here's a pic of one I'm making using an epoxy just for fun:

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c33/Sky_44/boolit.jpg

The paper around it forms the mold that I filled with J-B Weld. The mold extends past the base of the bullet a bit more than 1/8" so that the molded "cup" of J-B Weld is at least 1/8th thick for some strength.

TXGunNut
10-04-2012, 11:39 PM
Cool, great idea and post!

Hastings
10-06-2012, 07:18 AM
Well it turns out that the epoxy is better than the J-B weld. It seems to flow a bit better for molding. It also is a bit more flexible and conforms to small imperfections in bullet bases better during use.

pistolshooter
10-06-2012, 08:30 AM
A picture is worth a thousand words...... I am off to the garage this morning to give this a try. Thanks for the picture.

Cherokee
10-06-2012, 10:47 PM
Great idea, thanks for sharing.

quasi
10-16-2012, 03:05 AM
I wonder if some kind of RTV could be used in your "adapter"?

fishnbob
10-16-2012, 09:05 AM
What is the purpose of a 'BEVEL BASE BOOLIT' in the first place? Seriously, educate me. Not trying to hijack a thread but the bevel base is the issue here, and I really don't know its purpose. I can see a bevel, i.e. boattail on a 3000 fps rifle bullet eliminating some drag but a 900 fps pistol boolit, I don't get it. I take a Dremel and flat base 'em.

MtGun44
10-22-2012, 01:48 PM
It will enter the case a bit easier when loading.

Bill

Hastings
10-30-2012, 04:59 PM
What is the purpose of a 'BEVEL BASE BOOLIT' in the first place? Seriously, educate me. Not trying to hijack a thread but the bevel base is the issue here, and I really don't know its purpose. I can see a bevel, i.e. boattail on a 3000 fps rifle bullet eliminating some drag but a 900 fps pistol boolit, I don't get it. I take a Dremel and flat base 'em.

Apart from easier bullet seating, the bevel aids in boolit placement (deeper seating depth) when shooting oversized lead boolits that might otherwise bulge the case too much for reliable chambering. The inside of pistol case walls gets much thicker the further toward the web you go.

In my situation, my 9mm beveled boolits already drop at 156 grains. So even if a thicker base wouldn't bulge the case too much at my seating depth, I'd hesitate to make them much heavier by removing the bevel.

woody2
11-11-2012, 04:31 AM
I also had the same troubles, a mess, Having a lathe I made a new pin but cut a counter bore in the top of the pin and left a 30 deg. for the bullet to sit in, No more grease on the bullet now.

What a great idea. I have an old lathe but am far from an accomplished machinist. How did you cut the counterbore?

n.h.schmidt
11-11-2012, 10:18 AM
Hi
I don't know how Joe does this. I do the same thing. You put the pin in the lathe. It's best if you take the time to be sure it's centered. Only use a three jaw if it's really good. Next use a center drill. You want the center drill to be big enough to open up the pin so only a small edge is left on it. If you want to whole hog,you can now drill out the center of the pin. Drill all the way through. What does all this do? The die will work normaly in every way. Problem bullets ( bevel base and undersized bullets) will now not have lube stuck under them. Any lube that gets underneath goes into the drilled out part. If you do this a lot ,eventually the surplus lube will start to come out the bottom of the pin. This really takes a lot of sizeing for this to happen though.
I got this idea from the NRA Cast Bullets by Harrison book I have.
n.h.schmidt