help w/ Kenmore range trouble

[OneSkinnyMass]

model 36272221201

The oven doesn't light up or it will light once and get to temp then not relight as needed to keep the temp up.
The igniter glowbar is a little over 2 inches long and is glowing red but one small section of the glowbar (about 1/2 inch long) is glowing hotter, almost white hot.

A new glowbar is over $80 bucks from sears so I don't want to buy it unless needed.

Has anyone had to deal with something like this? All helpful advise is appreciated.

Skinny

[tryNto]

Look here about the Igniter, 1/2 way down the page under Electronic Ignition Ovens.

http://applianceassistant.com/repair/how_gas_appliances_work.php



But if you get a new Igniter try here.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Igniter/WB13K21/2494?modelNumber=362.72221201

Have bought from here for over 10 years.

[OneSkinnyMass]

Thanks for the great info tryNto
Looking at the glowbar video makes me think thats the culprit so I ordered one from repairclinic for half the sears price.

Thanks again,

Skinny

[44man]

I had to replace the box for the upper burners on my Maytag but you can still light with a match if the igniters fail. Not so with an oven where gas will not turn on.
Some oven igniters heat a probe that turns on the gas and the probe or valve can be faulty.

[OneSkinnyMass]

I looked for a thermocouple on the schematic and asked a tech at sears and there isn't one on this model. The thermostat clicks when the oven knob is turned so I'm pretty confident it is the igniter is my problem but I'll let you guys know when the part arrives.

Thanks again for the input,

Skinny

[Charley]

Had a dual oven electric Maytag, great appliance...except, the main board would default to "Sabbeth Mode". No kidding, damnned thing was Kosher, and wouldn't allow the oven to turn on. No offense to orthodox Jews, but I assume if you ARE orthodox, you'd KNOW you couldn't use the oven on the Sabbeth! Add in the fact that the circuit board was a couple hundred bucks, and Maytag couldn't guarantee it wouldn't start defaulting again. Sold that ***, and will not buy another Maytag product...

[Jeffrey]

Don't remember the brand I had, but a very common sequence of operation for gas fired pilotless ovens is the wire supplying power to the igniter goes through the gas valve. The igniter MUST draw a certain minimum amperage to open the gas valve. From what you are describing the igniter is likely the culprit. A good igniter is difficult to look at when it is energized. Also, be careful to NOT TOUCH the igniter element with bare hands. Like a halogen bulb, oil will lead to premature failure of an igniter. Touching the porcelain base is OK. Touching the grey crystalline igniter is not.

[Just Duke]

Don't remember the brand I had, but a very common sequence of operation for gas fired pilotless ovens is the wire supplying power to the igniter goes through the gas valve. The igniter MUST draw a certain minimum amperage to open the gas valve. From what you are describing the igniter is likely the culprit.
Yep. This is a fail safe if you try to light the oven if the power is off. It will not ignite with no power so you house doesn't fill with gas. They are all pretty much like that unless you get a big commercial job.

[MT Gianni]

Johnstone supply will sell you an ignitor for $30 if you have a commercial account. You can probably order one on-line from appliance doctor or something similar.
When installing an ignitor do not touch it as the oils from your skin will cause it to explode before 20 cycles, They are fragile so don't bump it against anything and do not force it. 10-20 minutes work on most models for someone comfortable getting inside an oven. The main difference in ignitors is the ceramic base set up, some have a flange on one side and some the other. Even with the $80 from sears you are cheaper than the price of a new range. Good luck with things, Gianni.

[OneSkinnyMass]

Thanks for the info, just waiting to see if I'm right in the diagnoses, And Again thanks for all the input

Skinny

[MT Gianni]

Thanks for the info, just waiting to see if I'm right in the diagnoses, And Again thanks for all the input

Skinny

An Ohm-meter will let you know quickly. They generally get an open spot near a horseshoe bend.

[OneSkinnyMass]

From what I've seen when trying to light the oven is the whole ignitor glows red, so I don't think I have a open in the circuit. But only about 1/2 inch on one side of the ignitor gets white hot. In the videos I've seen, most of the ignitor gets white hot, if that makes sense.
So, the new ignitor is shipped and when it arrives I'll let you guys know if it fixes my problem.
Hope I'm right lol

Skinny

[OneSkinnyMass]

Another successful home repair made possible by the brilliant minds of Cast Boolits.

The video I saw was right in that the whole ingitor should glow white hot and the new one I installed does and I mean right now too :-)

Repair time was about 20 mins cause I had to splice the 2 leads to the ingitor because the plug was wrong so I had to find a decent pair of side cutters but it was shipped with 2 ceramic wirenuts and all went smooth.

Cleaning time was another story though but ya'll know what it's like when you side the stove or fridge out and a woman walks through the room ... sigh.

Anyway, thanks for the money saving link and repair video tryNto and thanks to everyone for your input.

Skinny

[tryNto]

You are Welcome.
Always happy to help when I can...

Glad you got it fixed!