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happyhunter
08-28-2012, 10:24 PM
Hi, I'm a newbie. Been looking at some molds that are not plain base. I have heard you will get lube around the base of a bevel base boolit when you run it thru the lubrisizer. It makes sense this would happen. Is it really bad? Is there a way to prevent it from happening if it is bad?

I am thinking the lube could affect the powder and keep it from going bang. (The Scariest sound is click when you want bang.)

Thanks,
HH

blikseme300
08-28-2012, 10:57 PM
Hi, I'm a newbie. Been looking at some molds that are not plain base. I have heard you will get lube around the base of a bevel base boolit when you run it thru the lubrisizer. It makes sense this would happen. Is it really bad? Is there a way to prevent it from happening if it is bad?

I am thinking the lube could affect the powder and keep it from going bang. (The Scariest sound is click when you want bang.)

Thanks,
HH

Depends which sizer. No such issues when using a Star sizer. Some have tricks to make the down-up sizers work without the base from getting lubed, but I have never tried this. Lube can contaminate the powder so be careful.


Bliksem
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Le Loup Solitaire
08-28-2012, 11:32 PM
I have one- a WC in 38 special by H&G. It is an excellent bullet, but the issue always arose when sizing and lubing it (on a Saeco). The bevel filled with lube and it can't be left there or the powder will be contaminated. For a while I simply wiped it off with a rag, but decided that not only was that a PITA but it was also a waste of lube. I did solve the problem by having a machinist friend turn a carrier plug (formerly called an "H" die by Lyman) that had a recess on its top to match the bevel when bringing the bullet up out of the sizing die....so the lube couldn't get into/form in the bevel space. Problem solved. Its not a hard job, but you will have to ask around; there are a number of forum members who use/have a lathe+ skill and might help you out by making the part. It saves time and lube so is worth it to have it done. LLS

runfiverun
08-29-2012, 01:39 AM
or you could try a disc or two cut from a styrofoam meat tray pushed in the bottom of the die to block it off.

Potsy
08-29-2012, 09:25 AM
I like the meat tray idea. I've also read an O-ring can work.
I've got two bevel bases (Lee's) and grew to hate them while wiping off excess lube.

btroj
08-29-2012, 09:35 AM
Or you can just ignore it and move on. Worked for me quite well until I got a Star.

I view this as a problem that only exists in the mind. Purely cosmetic. Ignore it and move on.

Dale53
08-29-2012, 09:37 AM
The real solution, of course, is as Bliksem states - a Star lube/sizer. Since I have had a Star for forty years or so, I have not tried lubing with my RCBS or Lyman sizers.

I would certainly give the meat tray idea a shot. Others have reported excellent results.

Dale53

happyhunter
08-29-2012, 10:33 PM
So how does this meat foam thing work? Does it smush to the shape of the bottom of the bullet? That way it "fills" in the bevel? Am I understanding this? Sounds like it would work.

Thanks,
HH

runfiverun
08-30-2012, 01:05 PM
it just goes in and blocks off the lube like a flat base boolit would.
i have stars also and only used flat based boolits for the few i tried in a lyman sizer.
the styro is an ifdea that was passed on to me.

Shiloh
08-30-2012, 01:36 PM
One of the members here sent me some .38 gas checks. Seat one of these in the bottom of the lurisizer. The bevel base fits into it and prevents lube from touching the bevel base.

Shiloh

dale2242
08-30-2012, 06:45 PM
The styrofoam didn`t work for me.
Just wipe the lube off on a cloth laid on your leg, if it bothers you....dale

Mohavedog
08-31-2012, 03:21 PM
The meat tray trick didn't work for me either. I used a appropriate shell case to cut out the disk. The disk worked so-so at first but after a half dozen cycles it was smashed down and didn't work and needed replacing. For me I found that the perfect depth adjustment, just the right pressure, and lube softness/hardness worked best. Mohavedog

jdgabbard
09-01-2012, 02:37 AM
Or, the real solution.... Just buy a mold that doesn't have the bevel base. I tinkered with the bevel based boolits for a while. After a very short time I tossed them and went to plain base, or gas checked. If there was a particular boolit that I wanted to use and couldn't get it in a plain base, I think I'd just remove the bevel from the mold. Which has also shown to be viable option.

OLPDon
09-01-2012, 07:43 AM
Happyhunter:
Give this a try it worked for me when I started casting some years back. My first moulds were bevel base moulds or 2 (don't use them now). Anyway!!!!

Here is what I would do. I backed off on lube pressure completely then take a sized and lube boolit to form the lube seal of the bevel base boolit with a crumbled up and balled aluminum foil large enough to fit size of die. Then compress it with the sized and lubed boolit. You now have a hard seal that will conform to the bevel base. When that is done your set to go about sizing them.

Also one more quick note for your top punch don't use the set screw to hold in place use some of your stickiest lube to hold the top punch in place. The set screw offsets the top punch. With the lube holding it, it floats and lines up with the boolit and die.

Don