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jdgabbard
08-20-2012, 05:43 PM
Ok, so this is a tricky, multi-part question. And beyond my experience. So I go to the experts, you here at Cast Boolits. :coffeecom

First, after examining some of my 38spl brass that I've used for a long time, and I'm sure others used for much longer than myself, I've noticed that many of the cannelures have "ironed themselfs out." Some to the point that they're visable, but obviously not what they once were. Others to the point that they're barely visable, and upon check the inside of the case with a paper clip "I" cannot even tell if they have any function to them anymore. I'm assuming that as long as they're still showing good grip on the boolits and I'm not seeing any case head separation (not that I should with straight walled cartridges) that they are still safe for use.

Secondly, the ones that don't show smoothing out are obviously not good for cast boolits that would seat past the cannelure on the cartridge, as they would obviously size down the boolit upon passing through it. However, is there a method of smothing these out? I've got a hand full of shells that appear to have been intended for a 110-120g bullet. And would like to utilize those should there be a way, which at the moment is not going to happen unless they would be able to seat a 92g 358242 (don't know, would have to check).

And lastly, I'm quite sure that I can't be the only person here that has thought this one out at one point or another. So please give your feedback. ;-)

runfiverun
08-20-2012, 06:28 PM
the spud from a 358 win will iron them outward to 356 ish anyways, if you pull the de prime pin.
they were probably used in 125 gr loads.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
08-20-2012, 07:08 PM
Cannelures or not, Just load em all the same and if you can tell the difference in point of impact you are a much better shot then I.

CDOC

snuffy
08-20-2012, 07:58 PM
https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/13757

The RCBS neck expander should expand deep enough to remove that case crimp. Get the rifle one, you can get the expander button alone, then change the button for a smaller one if needed. Lyman used to make the expander plug available separately, but don't anymore.

https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/13757

jdgabbard
08-21-2012, 12:14 AM
Well, I guess thats it, just load them and shoot them, and hope they eventually straighten out. Thanks guys.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
08-21-2012, 08:10 PM
Ya, not a big thing, at least for my level of shoot'in!

CDOC

williamwaco
08-21-2012, 09:12 PM
Cannelures or not, Just load em all the same and if you can tell the difference in point of impact you are a much better shot then I.

CDOC



Ditto.



.

Bardo
08-21-2012, 09:34 PM
I had the same question a few days ago when I was reloading some once fired brass with a cannelure. I pulled the boolit and found all these lines in the base of the boolit. But it still measured .358 with my micometer. I pulled the expander plug to make sure it was going deep enough into the brass and it was. So I went and shot them and they shot as accurate as normal (this is the most accurate boolit I have found for 38 special or 357 mag in my GP100 and 686) and no leading so I'm not going to worry about it.

Bardo

Double click on image to enlarge

47059

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
08-21-2012, 09:51 PM
Yep Bardo, think ya called that one correctly.

Those little marks are nothing compared to what while show a fraction of second after that primer starts the ball roll'in!

Nice look'in boolit! What??????

CDOC

wv109323
08-21-2012, 09:54 PM
Bardo
Who makes the mold and what is the mold number/Weight?
What lube do you use?
TIA

abqcaster
08-21-2012, 10:21 PM
that looks like the latest mihec 359640.

Bardo
08-21-2012, 10:31 PM
that looks like the latest mihec 359640.

Yep its a Mihec 359640 in solid form it cast 170 gr boolit in hollow point form it cast 160gr boolit. The "640" always shoot so good for me. I have it for my 45 lc and 32 h&r mag also, The lube is felix.

Bardo

PS Paul
08-22-2012, 08:07 PM
I've reloaded a few hundred rounds of MagTech .45 Colt brass. After about three or four re-loads, the cannelure crimp just sort of "goes away" with no outwardly ill effects. At least none that I have been able to notice? The first two runs through the carbide sizing die are a little "rocky", but they smooth out soon enough and scarcely noticable after some time.

I did find that reloading the first two times with the loads pretty "warm" seems to speed the process along!! :bigsmyl2:

MtGun44
08-22-2012, 08:25 PM
I, too, just ignore them with no notable effect.

Bill

jdgabbard
08-23-2012, 12:59 AM
Well Bill, if you say so then I believe it!

hanover67
08-24-2012, 02:06 AM
I read in another thread somewhere that .38 Special brass with double cannelures was wadcutter brass. The writer had gone to some lengths to obtain it. It is supposedly thinner at the mouth end of the case.

I shoot .38 wadcutters so I tried to find some of this brass from "once fired" sources. No luck (no interest on their part). But, since my 1934 Colt Heavy Barrel Officer's Model shoots better than I can hold, it doesn't matter. I'll just keep using the Winchester and Remington range brass I've always used.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
08-24-2012, 11:22 AM
I am, and always have been, a brass scrounger.

So, .38 brass found where ever goes into the the .38 brass and gets used/fired when ever it happens to come up.

As said earlier, will take a better shot then I to see the difference, and quite frankely, I really don't care.

It is brass and I use it.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

gravely
08-27-2012, 09:27 PM
I read in another thread somewhere that .38 Special brass with double cannelures was wadcutter brass. The writer had gone to some lengths to obtain it. It is supposedly thinner at the mouth end of the case.

I shoot .38 wadcutters so I tried to find some of this brass from "once fired" sources. No luck (no interest on their part). But, since my 1934 Colt Heavy Barrel Officer's Model shoots better than I can hold, it doesn't matter. I'll just keep using the Winchester and Remington range brass I've always used.
I reload double-ended .38 wadcutters for the S&W Model 52 and I have read on this site that .38 brass with 2 cannelures is match brass with walls sized better to accomodate the fully seated double-ended bullet (seated to be flush or slightly below case mouth. Does anyone know if this is in fact true or just "folklore"