kroil

[shotman]

here is first 25 cast useing kroil tell me it dont work

[Wayne Smith]

Twelve out of 25 ain't all that great!

[Doc Highwall]

That is 12 out of the first 25 cast. What did you you clean the mould with before casting, and did you pre heat it?

[Hogdaddy]

Twelve out of 25 ain't all that great!

+ 1 On 12 out of 25 ; )
H/D

[shotman]

well I guess I need to take pic of all . How about I change the 25 to 12?? that was a cool hand full but only ones that didnt fill was my fault. Was a mold I got and had rework it . Cleaned it and Kroiled heat was light dip in the pot .
Some how I would have guessed the replies ???

[runfiverun]

it's a tough crowd Rick.....

[btroj]

I bet the rest of us together can show photos of tens of thousands of bullets that show it isn't needed.

Nothing goes in my mould cavities but molten alloy.

[Dan Cash]

Why would anyone put oil in the mould cavity before casting? I oil them up for storage but it sure takes an acetone bath to get the mould ready to use again.

[Wayne Smith]

well I guess I need to take pic of all . How about I change the 25 to 12?? that was a cool hand full but only ones that didnt fill was my fault. Was a mold I got and had rework it . Cleaned it and Kroiled heat was light dip in the pot .
Some how I would have guessed the replies ???

Rick, when you stick your leg out like that I'm gonna pull it! I expect others to do the same when I leave mine hanging.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

here is first 25 cast useing kroil tell me it dont work

It seems to me [from other threads posted] that "Kroil in the cavities" is a controversial issue here. Meaning some say it works and most think it's a crazy idea.
I'm still kind of on the fence with this, though I am skeptical. I'd really like to hear all details and technique of how it was used successfully. your short post with no details and a picture of 12 of 25 boolits would surely draw out some sarcasm for sure...I am withholding, as hard as it may be.

I did try this once on a troublesome [sticky cavity] lee mold.
I applied it with a Q-tip to the cavities of a HOT mold much like Bullshop's directions for Bullplate being applied to the sprue plate. All I got was wrinkly boolits that still stuck in the cavities and the nice aroma of steamy Kroil in the air.

If you seriously had some success, please give us ALL the details.
Jon

PS. Kroil has quite a number of products, what I tried was aerokroil [aerokroil has more solvents in it than standard/original kroil]
The exact product used would be one of those details I'd like to know

[10 ga]

No hollow base or Minnie skirt on them things, and cast out of "alloy" instead of pure, aint no biggie. When you get 12 out of the first 25 and casting Minnies or REAL out of pure let me know. 10 ga

[bbqncigars]

JonB: Kroil is one of the products of Kano Labs. I've used some of their other products, and have no complaints.

[1Shirt]

What works for one guy may not be the cats a$$ solution for somebody else!
1Shirt!

[softpoint]

If those are 429303, and that is what they look like, and they dropped right out of the mold, you are doing something right! I have a single cavity in that mold, and that IS the hardest boolit to get to drop I have. And I have heard others say the same.

[Cadillo]

Kroil is great for loosening rusted nuts and bolts, but did not work for me in a bullet mould. It took quite a bit of brake part cleaner cleaning to get rid of the wrinkles after I tried it.

I'm glad someone is happy with it for casting.

[1Shirt]

A very little bit of Kroil goes a very long way!
1Shirt!

[giz189]

Worked for me.

[Longwood]

Kroil
Kan it Really Or Internet Legend?

[Lizard333]

Most of moulds never needed it. I had a couple that I added Kroil to while the mould was hot, and after a couple drops, started dropping gems. I'm a believer.

[Circuit Rider]

I've used Kroil on mine for 3 or 4 years, wipe it lightly the night before and wipe out the morning I cast. Kroil isn't oil based by the way. Never had a problem. CR

[Recluse]

it's a tough crowd Rick.....



Some how I would have guessed the replies ???

We still haven't forgiven you for that pic you posted of yourself shirtless (and pantless). :shock:

:coffee:

[milprileb]

Maybe it works only in steel molds ? I could not get it to work in Lee molds.

I have used it in my Lee ingot blocks and it lasts a bit and then no longer does anything.
First six or ten times, bricks of lead drop out of ingot mold but after that, no big advantage.

Truly, I am not a believer in Kroil in bullet molds but its a great penetrating fluid.

Perhaps if some of the big dogs on the forum agree on Kroil, I will try it again.

[shotman]

difference on the lee is only one time when its hot. the steel need to {season }
Heat the Lee[ or al mold and spray and let dry from heat. then cast
the steel needs a few round to season in
first post was mold I bought and cleaned the BS off
the base is a very sharp Gas Check tapper
I ground the check area to a straight and then had to clean the grinding stuff out .
heated mold and hit it with Kroil and let set a few min and done a couple casts.
had to knok several out as they would hang on the area I ground at the check.
a run about 25 and hit with the Kroil and rest dropped as I open mold

[JIMinPHX]

I did try this once on a troublesome [sticky cavity] lee mold.
I applied it with a Q-tip to the cavities of a HOT mold much like Bullshop's directions for Bullplate being applied to the sprue plate. All I got was wrinkly boolits that still stuck in the cavities and the nice aroma of steamy Kroil in the air.

If you seriously had some success, please give us ALL the details.
Jon


I had some success using Aerokroil in the cavity of a mold that had a history of sticky boolits. I used just a tad on a Q-tip & wiped it in there, then let it sit for a minute or so, then wiped it back out with a dry Q-tip.

The mold gave me wrinkles for the first 8 or 10 casts, rather than the first 3 or 4 like it usually did, but then the boolits dropped better than average for the next hundred or so casting cycles.

That mold dropped better after the kroil treatment, but still not great. I suspect that the cavities in that mold are slightly of center because the boolits always stick on the same mold half, but I haven't taken the time to look into it.

Let me know if you think that there are other types of details that might be useful.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

difference on the lee is only one time when its hot. the steel need to {season }
Heat the Lee[ or al mold and spray and let dry from heat. then cast
the steel needs a few round to season in


Let me know if you think that there are other types of details that might be useful.

Jim,
your post and shotman's last post give me enough confidence to try it again.
Jon

[Ironnewt]

At the risk of sounding "STOOPID" why would you use Kroil on a mould (and why not)?

[dromia]

See the "Kroil in a boolit mould" sticky at the top of this forums page.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=55260

[MBuechle]

I just tried the Kroil treatment on my brass Mihec 358-125 mold today. I've been having bullets hang when casting flat nosed & smoking didn't help. I cleaned the cavities with De-natured alcohol then pre-heated the mold as usual on a hot plate. When up to temp, I mopped the cavities with a Kroil dampened Q-tip, followed with a dry one and began casting. The first bullets were keepers as were all subsequent ones. The bullets still hang but require less tapping to fall free. Not a hint of wrinkling, and this mold will wrinkle if not up to temp. Kroil should make HP casting a breeze as the Cramer pins kick the bullets out. I had tried Kriol once before on my Lee 6 cav 124TL mold and got wrinkles but in hind sight, I didn't have this mold hot enough either. My 9mm doesn't like the TL bullets so I don't use this mold any more. Count me as a believer in Kroil!

[stubshaft]

I've been a convert for years.

[sqlbullet]

It hasn't worked great for me in bullet molds.

But, a friend stopped by with a big steel can two weeks ago this Saturday. Lid wouldn't unscrew. Not terribly horrible looking, just capped tight in 1968, placed in a dry basement (Utah) for 44 years and the lid wouldn't come off. I put just a little Kroil around the base of the lid and let it sit for three days.

Lid came right off. Allowing me access to the beautiful 40+ lbs of surplus 4831 on the inside.

So, Kroil is currently my best friend in the world:bigsmyl2:

[Cadillo]

Why would anyone put oil in the mould cavity before casting? I oil them up for storage but it sure takes an acetone bath to get the mould ready to use again.

Acetone will certainly strip out the oil as well or better than anything else, but being a bit adverse to the use of strong solvents, I started using 91% alcohol from Walgreen's. A few shots from a Home depot spray bottle, and my moulds are good to go with no strong fumes. I do it because after each casting session, I clean then hose my moulds with Rem-Oil before storage. The alcohol cleans them right up.

[fastfire]

I'm goin'a try it if I can ever find it, 3 auto parts stores in town and nobody has it.

[Bjornb]

I had to order it directly from Kano Labs, couldn't find it in town.

[Cadillo]

It seems that those who use Kroil in moulds do it so as to make their moulds drop bullets easily from the cavities. Since I acquired a copper bristled brush, I have no more issues with sticky cavities. I simply clean and degrease the mould blocks, and then give the cavities a vigorous scrubbing with the copper bristled brush to remove the guilty machining burrs.

Works wonders for me.

[jonp]

I tried it. I doused the mold the night before, wipped out the excess and heated it on a hotplate. Where the mold was a little sticky before they dropped out easily. Lasted about 75 boolits or so.

[Walter Laich]

I've used and it works
doing the Lee-ment works better and lasts forever

[dragonrider]

I won't tell you it does not work. I will tell you I will never use it. I have no need for it. A properly cleaned and prepared mold does not need release agents of any kind.