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Rockchucker
06-20-2012, 12:43 PM
I just ordered one of these this morning and was wondering how many folks are using them. I do intend to order some of the pins for it but the kits were out of stock at Sinclair's so I just ordered the unit itself. I had one like 25 years ago and sold it along with other reloading gear after a divorce and now getting my gear back in order. Before ordering the pins I like to try some walnut media in it and see how it works over the vibrating units and was wondering if others tried it or just stuck with the SS pins.
http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i403/ronthompson5231/426185.jpg

:bigsmyl2:

Cadillo
06-20-2012, 01:20 PM
I've got two of them and have thus retired my vibratory cleaners. Having said that, I think that you will be disappointed in how the Thumler cleans with dry media compared to a vibratory cleaner.

Once you try the SS pins and get the process down pat, you will be very glad you spent the money on your set up.

duck hollow pete
06-20-2012, 01:31 PM
got the B in the mid 70's use walnut, alittle dust to deal with, but cleans fine. SS pins?

z1r
06-20-2012, 01:35 PM
I can't speak to that particular model but I got my Thumler Vibratory cleaner in 1985 and it is still going strong!

plainsman456
06-20-2012, 01:35 PM
I have had one since the 70's.It had the rubber drum and the only thing that has been replaced are the "O-ring" drive belts.

HiVelocity
06-20-2012, 03:26 PM
Once you try out your tumbling with the stainless pins, you'll forget all the dry media method. Its like night and day. Forget the dry media!

Just order the pins direct from the link at the top of the page; I guarantee they have them in stock. When you get the pins, just go by the directions, its that easy. You'll be pleasantly surprised.

I persuaded a good friend to try the pins method in his Thumbler and he was a real skeptic. I told him to put the nastiest, tarnished brass he could find in the tumbler to prove him wrong. He went into an old bucket of brass that was to be trashed and picked out 150 45 ACP cases. After 2 hours and a good rinse job, he told me that the brass could pass for new factory virgin brass. Yep, another convert! Lol!

HV

z1r
06-20-2012, 03:41 PM
Can you use the pins in vibratory tumbler or does it have to be the "rock tumbler" type?

kenyerian
06-20-2012, 03:43 PM
I've had one since the late 70's and it is still going strong. you do have to replace drive belts occasionaly.

docone31
06-20-2012, 03:46 PM
The pins work well in vibratory tumblers also. I suggest, you replace the center threaded rod with a stainless one. I did that with mine and it solves a lot of issues.
With the vibratorys, use enough water and Dawn dish soap. You can tell by the vibration. Too much soap and no vibrate, at least not the shells. With the right combination, the shells roll and vibrate.
Works well.

Revolver
06-21-2012, 07:05 AM
I use my Thumbler's with stainless pins & lemi shine for all my brass, I put my nickle into a vibratory tumbler with corncob.

The brass looks brand new. There is a video in my signature showing how I use it.

Rockchucker
06-21-2012, 08:03 AM
What's the best way to separate the brass and pins after the thumbler is finished running? I use a RCBS media separator for walnut and corn cobb, could this be used also for the SS pins? also, I've read in another post (somewhere) that a vendor here sells the magnetic SS pins, I haven't ordered them yet and need to place an order. Thanks/ Ron

Revolver
06-21-2012, 09:13 AM
I haven't tried a separator yet, I just take them out one at a time and dump the pins out of each case. I then place them into a big old pan I have with a paper towel in the bottom to dry. When they are dry there are usually about a dozen pins sitting in the pan, which I eventually put back into the tumbler.

Moonman
06-21-2012, 09:28 AM
Thumbler's Tumbler 15 pound Model B, High Speed , Dawn dish washing soap, Lemi-Shine rinse agent, and MAGNETIC STAINLESS STEEL PINS FOR MEDIA, and you'll swear you've found Heaven with your cleaned brass.

Magnetic media makes it easy to pick up LOOSE or ERRANT pins.

I leave my pins in the drum all the time.

ON NEW TUMBLERS, PULL THE RUBBER LINER, THE INSIDE IS BARE METAL, PAINT IT WITH RUST-OLEUM RED TO PREVENT DRUM FROM RUSTING.

Revolver
06-21-2012, 09:33 AM
ON NEW TUMBLERS, PULL THE RUBBER LINER, THE INSIDE IS BARE METAL, PAINT IT WITH RUST-OLEUM RED TO PREVENT DRUM FROM RUSTING.

Mine isn't. The inside is painted the same as the outside. Got mine in Early 2012 for reference.

Moonman
06-21-2012, 09:37 AM
Revolver,

Maybe the company checked on customer reactions to their product and corrected the problem.

Reloader's may be more fussy than rock polishers.

Mud Eagle
06-21-2012, 03:16 PM
I have an older Thumler B (1990s era, I think) that isn't painted inside the drum.

cheese1566
06-21-2012, 11:49 PM
My model B is ancient!
I attepted to pull the liner for a repaint project, but think it is pretty well stuck for now. I'll probably leave it until it has to be replaced.
Unless someone has some bright idea and experience in the matter...

Longwood
06-22-2012, 12:10 AM
My model B is ancient!
I attepted to pull the liner for a repaint project, but think it is pretty well stuck for now. I'll probably leave it until it has to be replaced.
Unless someone has some bright idea and experience in the matter...

Rust somehow acts as a great adhesive for rubber to bare steet.
You did good, leave it be until you need to replace it.

dromia
06-22-2012, 04:05 AM
I have two, one runs dry with walnut media for smokeless cases. Being going for over 20 years and I bought it second hand, did have to replace the pulley a few years ago though.

Bought a second one 12 years ago for wet tumbling of BP cases with ceramic media and its done real good as well.

Tried the pins and they do clean well but give up on them quickly as I found them too fiddly to manage and the ceramic media cleans just as good.

So a big thumbs up to Thumlers tumblers.

Cadillo
06-22-2012, 12:40 PM
Thumbler's Tumbler 15 pound Model B, High Speed , Dawn dish washing soap, Lemi-Shine rinse agent, and MAGNETIC STAINLESS STEEL PINS FOR MEDIA, and you'll swear you've found Heaven with your cleaned brass.

Magnetic media makes it easy to pick up LOOSE or ERRANT pins.

I leave my pins in the drum all the time.

ON NEW TUMBLERS, PULL THE RUBBER LINER, THE INSIDE IS BARE METAL, PAINT IT WITH RUST-OLEUM RED TO PREVENT DRUM FROM RUSTING.

My two came with painted drums, but I got rust over time anyway. I had them sandblasted and coated with Rustoleam. I now pull the liners after each use in order to get rid of any moisture than might have gotten into the drums. No more rust issues.

A coat of silicon spray on the outside of the liner helps greatly with removal and installation. I also leave my pins in the liners, but find that keeping the liners out of the drums allows all moisture to evaporate away.

Cadillo
06-22-2012, 12:46 PM
My model B is ancient!
I attepted to pull the liner for a repaint project, but think it is pretty well stuck for now. I'll probably leave it until it has to be replaced.
Unless someone has some bright idea and experience in the matter...

I would put forth the effort to pull it. I eventually began to find rust chips piling up on the decks of my machines. The decks and drums looked great, but copius amounts of rust began piling up on the decks during each use.. I pulled the liners and the drums were rusted horribly. How it migrated out of the area between the liners and drums during use still puzzles me, but it did and in a big way. Perhaps through the air vents on the bottom of the drum?

After sandblasting and repainting, they are up and running again with no rust issues, as I now pull the liners after each use in order to let them air dry.

Mohavedog
06-22-2012, 08:16 PM
The Thumlers tumbler and kit should be in stock at STM who is a sponsor here. I purchased mine about a mo ago and hesitated about getting the complete kit. I got the kit and I'm so glad I did. For me it was worth every extra penny. Sifting out the pins, rinsing the brass(mandatory), and putting those little pins back into the tumbler is so easy with the kit. That process takes about 5 min or less. Without the kit it would take forever.
OK, now I have a discovery and recommendation. I tumbled a load using about 1/4 tsp Lemishine and 1 tbsp Dawn dishsoap. When done, the water didn't look too dirty so I did another load using another 1/2 tsp Lemishine and more soap with the same water. I checked the process a couple of hrs later and was horrified to see the darkest brown ugly brass I'd ever seen. Took hours in a vibrator tumbler with dry media to get it somewhat shiny again.(I tried to fix it with a new wet tumble and it got worse) So, lesson learned for me was don't overdo the Lemishine. Anybody else experience this. I haven't heard any complaints about this.
Regards, Dog

9.3X62AL
06-22-2012, 08:27 PM
I've not yet tried the steel-pin or liquid method of brass cleaning, but I do count the 2 Thumler Model B tumblers in my garage among my BEST and MOST RELIABLE reloading tools in my shop. Utterly bullet-proof and over-built. Dry/untreated corncob grit (#14-#20) does well for cleaning brass--I'm not seeking a polished finish, just clean.

Longwood
06-22-2012, 08:55 PM
I would put forth the effort to pull it. I eventually began to find rust chips piling up on the decks of my machines. The decks and drums looked great, but copius amounts of rust began piling up on the decks during each use.. I pulled the liners and the drums were rusted horribly. How it migrated out of the area between the liners and drums during use still puzzles me, but it did and in a big way. Perhaps through the air vents on the bottom of the drum?

After sandblasting and repainting, they are up and running again with no rust issues, as I now pull the liners after each use in order to let them air dry.

If you look at a Thumblers tumbler, the first thing you will notice is it is very simply built with fairly inexpensive parts.
The reason they cost so much is because of the drums and especially the rubber liner. The machines needed to make the liners are very costly and costly to run.
I have not priced a liner,,, but I sure do suspect they are very expensive.
Be very careful removing one that is rusted to the outer housing.

I just purchased my first can of rust restorer. Looking forward to a test or two.

JohnFM
06-23-2012, 08:59 AM
I see new liners for sale at $30 and new complete barrels for $80.
Still think I'd get that liner out and work at the rust.
I really don't know how a liner or5 barrel could ever wear out. They were made to rotate full of rocks and abrasive media for months on end.

The model B I got from my Dad must be from the 60's, maybe even older and who knows how much rock it tumbled.
The rubber liner is about 3/16" thick.

Lance Boyle
06-23-2012, 09:17 AM
I've been using my model b high speed and SS pins for a couple years now. About a 1/4 tsp of lemishine, a squirt of dawn and just enough water to cover the brass and pins. 2 hours for a decent clean, 4 hours for a new brass look clean. I have done some truly nasty 50-60 year old .30-40 krag cases and I couldn't tell them from the new ones other than they read UMC as opposed to RP and weighed a lot more than the new ones.

My 2 year old model B has an unpainted drum interior. I too found rust but not pitted bad. I scrubbed it out and just slobbered paste wax inside and didn't buff or wipe it out. No issues yet.

I haven't totally given up on my vibratory RCBS (bought in 1987?). I use it to remove the spray on case lube off of completed rounds I load on the progressive. [No, tumbling live ammo does not ruin the powder, primer or anything else, that's a book printed fallacy].

dromia
06-23-2012, 09:28 AM
I am going to cover the inside of the drum with Xlox the next time I take the liner out.

quilbilly
06-23-2012, 01:16 PM
I have a Lortone two barrel tumbler which I use to polish both rocks and brass. Works well with both though polishing brass takes 1/20th of the time.

Cadillo
06-24-2012, 06:42 PM
If you look at a Thumblers tumbler, the first thing you will notice is it is very simply built with fairly inexpensive parts.
The reason they cost so much is because of the drums and especially the rubber liner. The machines needed to make the liners are very costly and costly to run.
I have not priced a liner,,, but I sure do suspect they are very expensive.
Be very careful removing one that is rusted to the outer housing.

I just purchased my first can of rust restorer. Looking forward to a test or two.

Don't be skeered. Just do it!

Rockchucker
06-26-2012, 10:03 AM
My Tumbler came in yesterday and the first thing I noticed was the inside of the drum wasn't painted, just bare metal with a little over spray on it. Pulled the liner back out and put a couple good coat of of paint in it and then let it dry for a couple hours. My son wanted me to clean about 50 really dirty brown 30-06 cases for him so I mixed the dawn and lemi shine up and set the timer for 3 hours and all I can say is WOW! It's cleaner and has a shine that beats new brass all to pieces. I do have to say though that it is a more involved process than dealing with walnut or corn cobb media type cleaning, I did buy the SS pins from STM (vendor here) and the shipping was fast, I'll buy from them again, nice folks to do business with.

Ron

captaint
06-26-2012, 11:21 AM
chucker - as has been mentioned, I think, the Thumblers with walnut media will get your brass clean - but it will not be as shiny as the vibrators with corncob & wax. They do last forever though. enjoy Mike

Rockchucker
06-26-2012, 11:44 AM
I'm thinking the next batch of cleaning is gonna be with some walnut with some polish added, The pins are nice and does just what its advertised to do, however dealing with all the soapy water and wet cases is more involved and clean cases will do me just fine. for the very dirty, brown or corroded cases the pins are the right stuff.

montana_charlie
06-26-2012, 12:28 PM
I have a Lortone two barrel tumbler which I use to polish both rocks and brass.
I also use a Lortone ... a QT-12 (twelve pounder).
A nice thing about the Lortones is that the drum is a single piece of rubber.

Pretty quiet, and rustproof ...

CM

mstarling
06-26-2012, 09:33 PM
STM give members here any discount? If so, how does one apply for it?

Longwood
06-26-2012, 09:40 PM
This tub looks like a good one.
They make several sizes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Gal-Barrel-for-Rock-Tumbler-Polishing-Brass-etc-/350229947098?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518b54e2da

I guess I should add this to be fair.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400294472153?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

mstarling
06-26-2012, 10:02 PM
Looks like the STM discount has aged out.

Longwood
06-26-2012, 10:08 PM
Looks like the STM discount has aged out.

If you told us who STM is,,, it may help to jog some memories.

Rockchucker
06-26-2012, 10:18 PM
If you told us who STM is,,, it may help to jog some memories.

They're a vendor at the top of the page, STM stands for stainless steel media. Good folks to do business with.

mstarling
06-26-2012, 10:57 PM
Have used Dillon's big vibratory tumblers for years. Now have two that no longer work. Motor bearings are shot. Is the only piece of Dillon hardware that has ever failed me ... and they are no help whatever is finding a solution! Sure was nice to be able to clean LOTs of cases at once.

So I ordered the STM combo setup. We'll see how well they last.

Need to find a motor shop and see if the Dillon motors can be replaced or repaired with ball bearings shafted units.

Longwood
06-26-2012, 11:15 PM
Have used Dillon's big vibratory tumblers for years. Now have two that no longer work. Motor bearings are shot. Is the only piece of Dillon hardware that has ever failed me ... and they are no help whatever is finding a solution! Sure was nice to be able to clean LOTs of cases at once.

So I ordered the STM combo setup. We'll see how well they last.

Need to find a motor shop and see if the Dillon motors can be replaced or repaired with ball bearings shafted units.

Try Dayton or W.W. Grainger to see if you can buy the motors.

Longwood
06-26-2012, 11:19 PM
They're a vendor at the top of the page, STM stands for stainless steel media. Good folks to do business with.

Aha,,
Thanks
I have become very proficient at ignoring advertisements in magazines, news papers etc..
I guess all of the practice worked here too.;-)

STM,,, Stainless Steel Media,, somehow I missed the connection.