Alloy Affect Accuracy?

[thehouseproduct]

Does alloy affect accuracy or loadings? I have a new hollowpoint 150grish 30 cal gas check mold that I'd like to use a softer alloy for load development and save my pure WW for varmint ammo.

[geargnasher]

As a general statement, yes it does.

Gear

[paul h]

As with all things cast bullets, it depends.....

If the alloy is too soft for your application, the force of the rifling engraving on the bullet will tear the bullet apart causing horrendous leading and poor accuracy. If however you don't have a real fast barrel twist, and you aren't pushing the bullet that hard, a softer alloy may produce identical accuracy, it may even be better.

I think you'll find straight air cooled ww's will be just about the best alloy for cast hp bullets in a rifle. You might want to add 1-2% tin to increase it's malleability.

[runfiverun]

you have the alloy need backwards, you want the soft alloy for the varmints.

[44man]

you have the alloy need backwards, you want the soft alloy for the varmints.
Yes except for the fact you need more accuracy for small stuff.
The ideal is a soft nose, hard base for all animals.

[thehouseproduct]

you have the alloy need backwards, you want the soft alloy for the varmints.
Not for the Ness Safety Bullets. It's designed to fragment on impact preventing ricochets.

[runfiverun]

do they make them in 22 cal?
perhaps i have been doing this wrong.
i would like to see one of these molds.

[thehouseproduct]

do they make them in 22 cal?
perhaps i have been doing this wrong.
i would like to see one of these molds.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=125239

[williamwaco]

you have the alloy need backwards, you want the soft alloy for the varmints.




ditto!

.

[williamwaco]

As a general statement, yes it does.

Gear

ditto.

.

[Shuz]

I've recently discovered that using pure linotype has helped improve my scores and groups in CBA match shooting.

[runfiverun]

that's right interesting bill.
i have messed with something similar.
i was actually using a 4/6 alloy and swagin a flat on the nose then drilling a hole,and oven treating it back to hard.
that nose would keep shots in the 100 yd or so range

[Lloyd Smale]

I would say from my experience a change in alloy can effect accuracy as much as a complete change in bullet design. Now im not talking a change of 2 or 3 bhn numbers or a differnt batch of ww. But comparing loads shot with everything the same and the alloys varying 5 or more bhn numbers it can be drastic. Ive cut group size in half by changing alloys in some cases.

[44man]

Lloyd, that's what I found too. I just settled on WW's or 1# of stereo lead to 19# of WW's. All water dropped.
Real hard stuff is either too expensive or hard to find.
I have enough stereo stuff for 1400# of WW's. I sure do not have that much.
Stereo is so rich in tin, it is a waste to use more. It is 7% and I am too stupid to figure the percentage I have in a mix! :mrgreen:

[Lloyd Smale]

the chart i have says sterotype is 6 percent tin. adding one lb of it to 19lbs isnt getting you much tin in the alloy or really anthing else other then lead. If the whole lb was just tin youd be adding 5 percent tin to the total of the alloy. but the tin content is only 7 percent of what your adding. If it were even 10percent tin youd only be adding about .2 percent tin. Id save that steryotype for mixing in greater quanitys with something like pure to make a hard alloy. Dropping a lb of it in 20lbs of alloys is almost throwing it away.

[44man]

the chart i have says sterotype is 6 percent tin. adding one lb of it to 19lbs isnt getting you much tin in the alloy or really anthing else other then lead. If the whole lb was just tin youd be adding 5 percent tin to the total of the alloy. but the tin content is only 7 percent of what your adding. If it were even 10percent tin youd only be adding about .2 percent tin. Id save that steryotype for mixing in greater quanitys with something like pure to make a hard alloy. Dropping a lb of it in 20lbs of alloys is almost throwing it away.
It has been making wonderful boolits and is easier then adding tin and antimony. It is 15% antimony. I want to stretch it. I am cheap after all.
I have a huge pile of pure lead for ML's. It would work fine but will cut down the total amount of alloy.
I feel a little has improved my WW metal. Boolits seem very tough. More testing will be groups soon.

[Lloyd Smale]

well your gaining about half a percent antimony in your final alloy adding it like your doing. I cant imagine its enough to really make a differnce but then i havent tried it. personal id save the type metal for making ww into #2 or mixing it 5050 with ww to get a good hard alloy without water dropping. But then ive wasted HUNDREDS of pounds of linotype that i sure wish i could get back right now!!

[44man]

That's my feeling too! I stare at what I have and know I will never get more. :holysheep
I have good luck with plain WW's, water dropped, that I figure a little will make it better, no need to go with more.
I will be testing in my JRH soon as soon as they harden some more.
I like a tough boolit but they don't need to be super hard once accuracy is found.
The only boolit that shot better when real hard for me was the Keith.
I just checked a few I cast last week and they run 22 to 25 BHN and that is harder then plain WW's. I think they will take rifling perfectly.
Now I don't shoot much rifle anymore and never hunt with them other then a ML. I also keep under 1400 fps in revolvers, 1350 perfect for deer.
I will let you know if that 1# is frosting on the cake.