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6bg6ga
06-03-2012, 08:34 AM
Wife bought a stainless Walther PPKS with crimson sight yesterday at the gun show and now I need to learn to reload for it. So, I need some help from those experienced with the 380. I would assume that one could reload using cast boolits if the velocity was kept down. If I am incorrect here please let me know.
Anyway if it is possible to cast and reload these so that a nice working target load could be made up could someone suggest components such as bullet type, number, powder, load, and overall length to start with? My reloading books date back to the early 80's so I have no accurate up to date info on the 380.

If its better to use jacketed bullets please advise on this too.

Thanks

fcvan
06-03-2012, 09:19 AM
.380 is pretty easy to load for. The cartridge has been around over 100 years and the specs haven't really changed. I cast the Lee 102RN and the Lee 105SWC and size to .358. They shoot wonderfully with 3 grains of Bullseye which according to the manufacturer max is 3.3 grains. I tried Unique once and the groups opened up a lot. I went back to Bullseye.

I started shooting .380 with a Beretta 70S which was styled similar to the Walther PPK but single action. I later picked up an FEG PA-63 which is a Hungarian knock off of the PPK. My brother has a PPKS. I also have a Taurus TCP738 and the wife has a Walther PK380. My standard load has worked flawlessly in each firearm. Frank

6bg6ga
06-03-2012, 09:26 AM
Frank,

Thanks for the reply. Is that 102 and 105gr bullets? Any idea on over all length?

Leading any problem? Lube...using the 50/50 mix on 45acp. Need to change or will the beeswax/alox work ok?

Thanks

beagle
06-03-2012, 10:16 AM
I loaded some Lyman 358 242 (90 grain version) for a shooting partner. Think these were sized .356". I used a standard book load and they functioned perfectly in his .380 and shot accuratly out to 25 yards./beagle

happy7
06-03-2012, 10:21 AM
My uncle has one of those stainless PPKs. I loaded up a bunch of the Lee 102 grain bullets for him. They work very well in that gun. I can get you the load information I used later today when I get out to my shed.

reloader28
06-03-2012, 10:23 AM
The smallest boolit I have is the Lee 358 125gr. It shoots good from the 6 different 380's we've tried them in with 2gr Bullseye.

I'd like to try Ranch Dogs 100gr. I think that would be a nice boolit. Going to order one as soon as I get more money.

Echo
06-03-2012, 12:02 PM
Several good pieces of advice here. My suggestion (I have no 380 - take he following for what you paid for it!) is to try casting a light boolit and tumble lubing w/45/45/10. I have had very good luck with low intensity cartridges TL'ing them and shooting un-sized. If they fee in your 380, TL unsized is the way to go.

Katya Mullethov
06-03-2012, 12:14 PM
I'd like to try Ranch Dogs 100gr. I think that would be a nice boolit. Going to order one as soon as I get more money.

I got hold of one a couple of days ago and am fixin' to fire up the pot . We'll have to see how they run out of a wee Keltec .

Cherokee
06-03-2012, 05:35 PM
Been loading the 380 for years. I like 231 and 109 gr TC cast bullet. I have used the Lee 120 TC bullet and it works fine as well. OAL will depend on the gun, you will have to see what works for the bullet you finally use.

6bg6ga
06-03-2012, 06:05 PM
Thank you very much for the useful information here and hopefully it will keep on coming. I am pleased to report that I took the wife target shooting this afternoon and she had a very pleasant time shooting her new gun. It was touch an go for a couple of clips as she got used to the recoil. She hasn't shot for years and I am quite pleased that she went on line and took a concealed weapons course and passed it and went on to the Sheriffs office and filled out the forms to obtain her permit. Now I can worry a little less when she is out and about but rest assured there will be more shooting instruction so that she will be like one of the boys.

fcvan
06-03-2012, 06:49 PM
Frankly (I can say that) I cheat when it comes to seating depth. I often set up my seat and crimp die by adjusting to the specs of a round of factory ammo. It works for me.

Alloy: I have used more range lead than anything but have used a lot of wheel weights.
Lube: I used Javalina for decades with great result. I have used a bunch of Rooster Red and it was ok. Of late I am using home made loob based on a recipe from this site. That consists of one closet flange ring (toilet gasket) two sticks of parafin, and about 4 oz. of STP. That has worked great. The only thing I want to change with that is add some color but that isn't necessary.

The .380 ACP is a lot like the .45 ACP, both are low pressure rounds from the turn of the last century. I have not had ANY problems with loading for either, that is except when I tried Unique for the .380. I dont know why I did it, as Bullseye has always performed so well in this cartridge.

I am tempted to try a slightly heavier boolit based on some load specs I got from this and other sites. The main reason I haven't is the 102 RN shoots so well and is very similar to the factory rounds I carry in my TCP738. Even when I'm carrying my Glock 40 the little Taurus is still in my back pocket. It is a neat little gun my wife bought for me as an anniversary present. She bought two, hers is pink - but she prefers her Walther PK380. Frank

reloader28
06-04-2012, 12:33 AM
HA HA. I carry my little black Taurus in my back pocket too. We also bought 2 and the wife got the pink/stainless one that she loves to carry and shoot, tho most of our .380 shooting is with the Hi-Points. They are heavier and easier to control. The Walthers are fun too.

Lucky for us, in Wyoming we dont need a concealed permit.:mrgreen:

Iron Mike Golf
06-04-2012, 04:27 PM
I am using the Mihec .380 HP mold from a recent group buy. It drops at 93 gr or so. I size to .358 for my Sig P238. I'd need to dig up some notes to see what powders and charges worked well for me.

You'll like need to play with OAL to get it to feed and chamber smoothly. The necessary OAL will depend on your gun and the boolit's nose profile. Longer is often better for feeding, as it makes the approach angle of the round into the chamber shallower.

DIRT Farmer
06-04-2012, 04:37 PM
In my Walther 380 I had a lot of jams using the Lee 105 grn, sizing to 358. I finaly bought a 356 sizing die and it runs great. Apperently some have tight chambers.

Hang Fire
06-04-2012, 07:15 PM
Wife has two Bersa model 85s she reloads for. Few years back she got 3,000 of prelubed 95 grain cast boolits for 40 bucks and they work great with 3 grains of BE.

6bg6ga
06-08-2012, 07:00 AM
Been loading the 380 for years. I like 231 and 109 gr TC cast bullet. I have used the Lee 120 TC bullet and it works fine as well. OAL will depend on the gun, you will have to see what works for the bullet you finally use.

Well I have a few lbs of 231 and I use it in my 45acp loads. So I will definately use 231 in some trial loads. Still looking for some decent reloading dies for the 380. Haven't looked yet into purchasing some casting molds.

TNFrank
06-08-2012, 09:21 AM
In my Walther 380 I had a lot of jams using the Lee 105 grn, sizing to 358. I finaly bought a 356 sizing die and it runs great. Apperently some have tight chambers.

That's the case with my PK380. As cast the Lee 102gr RN's come out of the mold out of round with the wide side being .359" and even loading them to .960" OAL the bullet still hits the front of the chamber and won't allow the cartridge to headspace in the chamber. I'm getting a Lee sizer to size them to .356" today, we'll see how that goes. I'm starting with 3.0grs of Unique and may bump it to 3.2grs if velocity looks slow(I'll run 3 round over my Chrony before I load more rounds) since I'd like at least 900fps out of this little boolit if I can get it. I know I can get it with W231 or Bullseye so if Unique won't work I might need to buy another lb of different powder just for the 380acp. Good luck and keep us posted.

gcsteve
06-08-2012, 10:40 AM
At only 10.5 oz, my wife didn't care for the recoil in her TCP738 using factory rounds, so I started reloading for it using the Lee 102 RN and only 2.3 grains of Bullseye. It's accurate, cycles well, and makes the little gun a pleasure to shoot.

Hanzerik
06-08-2012, 09:23 PM
I just got my Ranch Dog 358-100 mold a few days ago. Here are some of the little pills it creates, next to a 44 Mag boolit.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/526873_477910782225145_2079111581_n.jpg

Here are a few test rounds I made up this morning (2.5gr Bullseye, CBC Brass, WSP, OAL .935)
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/250766_479178088765081_1851681459_n.jpg

And here is how 15 of them printed at 7 yards. The others were sent out to about 100 yards to see what kind of drop there was. I was just planning to make sure they chambered from the mag, fired, and extracted/ejected. But after I saw the first few impacts on the piece of wood I aimed for the same point to see how they grouped. The gun shoots about an inch and a half low at 7 yards.
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/303309_479271672089056_1808809927_n.jpg

Axton1
06-11-2012, 05:53 AM
Hey 6bg6ga,
I don't have a Walther but, do have 2 380's - a Bersa Firestorm and A ruger LCP.
Have loaded a LOT of Berry's Preffered 100g copper plated stuff over 3g of Bullseye for them.
Using a Lee Classic Cast press with the Auto disc powder drop and Lee deluxe die sets. Makes great ammo using BE - drops consistent 3.0g. I've tried Unique a couple times but can't get it to meter well at that small a volume. The LCP will shoot and cycle well dropping down to 2.7g of BE but the Bersa will fail to eject occasionally so, have stuck with the 3.0g as the wife and daughter shoot that a lot - only shoot the LCP a little for practice.
I bought a Lee 102g 2 cavity mold and have shot some of those lubed with 45/45/10 and it does well in both with the same load. My problem is I'm haveing a BEAR of a time getting that mold to make decent boolits! Have to work VERY fast to keep the mold temp up to make it drop smooth boolits. (700 degree pot/WW with some tin added) Have tried adjusting the flow up/down moved the mold up against the spout and down at different distances - just haven't found anything that works well yet. If I get enough flow going to pour it fast, it "splatters" out of the top of the mold and the boolits come out misformed. ?! Probably make 300 bad boolits to 50 good ones. Got a lyman dipper in last week and next try is to ladle pour and see if that helps. The bottom pour pot just doesn't seem to get it for this small mold - or it's just me. Can't change that part!
Anyway, hope this helps!
Happy shooting!

fcvan
06-11-2012, 12:23 PM
I read an article a long time ago about ladle casting where the author poured onto the sprue plate and the lead swirled into the cavity. For the last 25 years I have been using my bottom drop to pour onto the sprue plate filling both cavities of my two cavity molds at once. I get very good fillout with everything from 55gr .225 to 440gr .50 caliber. When the mold and alloy are at temp things work quite well.

I gauge my temp by how fast the sprue cools, and my molds are preheated by setting on top of the furnace while it heats. A piece of tin can cut to fit the top of the furnace sits on top while the furnace heats up. This gives a flat surface for the mold blocks and provides plenty of heat transfer. My two main molds for the .380 are the Lee .356-102RN and the Lee .358-105SWC. Frank

Axton1
06-11-2012, 10:12 PM
I read an article a long time ago about ladle casting where the author poured onto the sprue plate and the lead swirled into the cavity.

So, how far away from the pot spout do you have the mold when pouring "between the holes?" I need to do something different because the stream of lead hits the hole in the sprue plate and splatters - leaving a hole in the base of the boolit. Have reduced the stream as much a possble but still happens at times. And with the stream reduced, I end up with the spout freezing up and appears to cause wrinkled boolits too if I can't move fast enough to get back under there. Frustrating!
With the same alloy and temp, I made over 500 175g 40cal boolits and 400 or so 357cal boolits prior to these and they came out beautiful so - don't think it's temp or alloy related.......I think it is "operator error" caused by "lack of experience." Just need to find the cure for that......
Funny that the little-bitty boolits would be the hard ones!

Thanks for help!

happy7
06-12-2012, 08:43 AM
Remember, different alloys freeze at different temps. So it could be you are using a somewhat different alloy than before.

If your spout is freezing just raise your alloy temp. You don't need the alloy that cold.

reloader28
06-12-2012, 09:33 AM
Hanzerik, did you tumble lube or lube/size them?

I thought I would try lube/sizing it. I dont have liquid lube.

Just ordered a Ranch Dog a couple days ago. Cant wait to try it out. Will be a new experience for me. First tumble lube boolit and first 6 cav mold.

6bg6ga
09-25-2012, 07:06 AM
Well the wife just sold the 380 to me so I now own two guns she had bought. Got around to loading some ammo up for it. I bought some 95gr jacketed 9mm bullets at a gun show a few weeks back and used 3.2gr of 231 for my load. I took it to the range and found it to be quite accurate so I will probably keep it for a target load. I am anxious to purchase the new mark X bullet caster when it comes out. I have a number of Magma bullet molds one of which is a 90gr round nose 380.

I guess she misses the Dan Wesson 357 she used to have. When going to gun shows she looks at the S&W's a lot.

Hanzerik
10-08-2012, 03:28 PM
Hanzerik, did you tumble lube or lube/size them?

I thought I would try lube/sizing it. I dont have liquid lube.

Just ordered a Ranch Dog a couple days ago. Cant wait to try it out. Will be a new experience for me. First tumble lube boolit and first 6 cav mold.

Sorry, been a while. Yes, I tumble lubed, sized, then heated them up a little bit with a hair dryer, jiggled them around in a tupperware bowl to recoat them again.

On a side note, wife just got a Sig P238, and these bullets sized to .358 are too big to chamber smoothly in her pistol. Oh, I can let the silde fly and a round will chamber, but I cannot open the slide without taking a rod and tapping the round out through the muzzle (Dummy round). To solve this I just ordered a .356 sizer last night, which I hope solves the issue. I could probably seat the bullets deeper, but I don't want to have to do that. I guess the Ruger either has a longer chamber or a looser one. And I do know that when seating these bullets sized at .358 in my Lee dies, that the case is getting resized down as soon as they enter the die. I have to flair the mouth a bit more then usual to get these bullets started. It may also be that the Magtech brass is thicker, but I have hundreds of Magtech cases, so I figure I can spare a little change to get a different sizing die.

6bg6ga
03-06-2013, 07:52 AM
Ok,

Going to try to load some 9mm with my 95gr round nose SAECO mold and was wondering if anyone had used a 95 gr bullet in a 9mm load. I do show a 92gr #358242 in my anequated Lyman #46 manual. It doesn't show a load with 231.

What is a safe velocity with ww bullets?

Buzz64
03-09-2013, 07:54 PM
Might want to check this out in the group buy section:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?180849-380ACP-Ranch-Dog-Mold
Looks like it is about to close so don't waffle too long if you're interested.

DLCTEX
03-09-2013, 09:08 PM
Axton1: You may try heating the mould on a hot plate to warm it up before casting. Little boolits don't supply much heat. Once started casting you should cast and drop and refill as quickly as possible. Don't stop to see how they are filling out unless you set the mould back on the hotplate. It may be necessary to prop the handles on something to maintain full contact between the mould and hotplate. This is the method I use to cast 22 boolits with the Lee Bator mould without fillout problems.