Which press and what dies for 357

[PAT303]

I've just bought myself a very nice S&W 586 357 and now need some reloading gear.I was thinking about getting a Lee three or four hole turret press,which is the better buy and what are good dies,normal steel or carbide?.Thanks for your help. Pat

[geargnasher]

I think you'll be happier in the end with a Classic Turret 4-hole, that will allow separate seat/crimp functions. Also, I think you'll find the RCBS or Hornady steel dies will be better than anyone's carbide dies as far as chamber fit. The carbide ones I've tried all seem to oversize the brass.

I use an RCBS steel sizer die, Lee powder-through-expander die (along with the Autodisk powder measure), Lee seater die, and RCBS crimp die on my Classic Turret.

Don't forget the Safety Prime kit and the powder measure riser if you plan to prime and charge powder on the press.

Gear

[jameslovesjammie]

I agree 100% with Gear. The Classic Cast Turret Press is the best thing since sliced bread. As far as dies go, I have used Lee, RCBS, Redding, Lyman, and Hornady. I have the most RCBS dies of anything, but have only just recently tried the Hornady dies. I am VERY impressed. The Hornday bullet seating die has a sleeve that helps guide the bullet into the case straight. If I had tried the Hornady dies sooner, I am quite certain I would have alot more of them on my bench.

[avogunner]

Pat, you'll be able to put together fine loads from whatever press suits your fancy (and your wallet). I've used all colors of presses and honestly, looking at a loaded round, you wouldn't know which any came from. That includes dies too; RCBS, LEE, Hornady, etc....will all make super ammo. I often see some good gear on the swapping and selling forum.
Just my humble opinion.....

[MBTcustom]

It doesn't matter. Use anything from a Lee loader, to a Dillon progressive. 38 is one of the easiest calibers to load for.
Personally, I prefer the carbide dies. you got good advice on the turret press, but I would be in favor of the regular Lee "D" style press, so that you could use it for rifle loading also.
I recommend you try some 200 grain RN slugs. You wont be disappointed!
Also, if you ever decide to get into the pistol to clean it, send me a PM. I can teach you the correct way to get in and out of every part of that gun.

[PAT303]

It doesn't matter. Use anything from a Lee loader, to a Dillon progressive. 38 is one of the easiest calibers to load for.
Personally, I prefer the carbide dies. you got good advice on the turret press, but I would be in favor of the regular Lee "D" style press, so that you could use it for rifle loading also.
I recommend you try some 200 grain RN slugs. You wont be disappointed!
Also, if you ever decide to get into the pistol to clean it, send me a PM. I can teach you the correct way to get in and out of every part of that gun.

I'll be taking up your offer on the cleaning,I appreciate the offer mate.I was going the turret press as I can then buy more disks and simply fill them with 6.5's or 303's 8x57's dies and really go to town,I like the idea of having the same setting from batch to batch. Pat

[Lizard333]

Get the dillon 550. Great product. Great service. Great warranty. More expensive but you only have to buy it once. Hate for you to get something then have to "upgrade".

[MT Chambers]

For single stage(but quickest and cheapest) die change outs, the Forster Co-ax is the best bet, making the most accurate reloads if done right. For progressives, the Dillon is king.

[zxcvbob]

If I had to start over knowing what I know now, I'd get (in this order) a Forster Co-Ax, a Dillon SDB, and a Lee "Reloader" (the little cheap one)

The way I started out -- a used C&H model 333 -- wasn't bad.

How many per month do you plan to reload, and what other calibers are you likely to add?

[DrCaveman]

Pat

Congrats on a great gun. I bought carbide dies (lee) because of the lack of needing to lube the cases prior to sizing. I was under the impression that steel dies require case lube, which can be a significant point when loading 500 rounds in a session.

But, based on my impression of some previous posters in this thread, I may be way off base. If anyone would care to comment about efficiency of steel vs carbide I would be most appreciative, as I am sure Pat would be.

In any event, the lee dies do seem to excessively work the case on the crimping side.

Nonetheless, you will get yourself a lot of quality rounds using the lee 38/357 die set. It just may be worth considering shipping & time expense to oz for upgrades should you choose to change in the future.

[DrCaveman]

And I would agree about the lee classic turret press. 4 hole. No reason you cant chug out 200+ rounds per hour (as long as you don't have to lube every case).

[geargnasher]

Make your own case lube that you can use in a spray bottle, or "tumble" lube the case with the same stuff in a baggie. See the stickies on case lube for recipes. You can do 200 in 30 seconds. Let them dry, then run them through the turret. A spritz of mineral spirits on a towel and a quick tumble "hammock style" will clean your loaded rounds.

Carbide dies have their place, but I've always had better luck using correctly sized and tapered steel dies for the rimmed handgun cartridges. Try both types and see what your results are.

Gear

[eniku40]

I'd skip the riser and the safety prime and get a hand primer to prime your brass.
The safety prime is very finicky and I've finally given up on it and prime off- press. (yes, I've enlarged the hole in the primer mount plastic plate etc. but every 30-40 rounds a primer either fails to present itself or it ends up on the floor. )
This part really does not need to be as rickety as it is.
Th turret press itself is excellent. (I have the classic cast turret)

[geargnasher]

I'd skip the riser and the safety prime and get a hand primer to prime your brass.
The safety prime is very finicky and I've finally given up on it and prime off- press. (yes, I've enlarged the hole in the primer mount plastic plate etc. but every 30-40 rounds a primer either fails to present itself or it ends up on the floor. )
This part really does not need to be as rickety as it is.
Th turret press itself is excellent. (I have the classic cast turret)

*Results subject to user*.

Gear

[PAT303]

All good advise,I'm heading off in a minute for an overnight camp and have a sleep on it,buying once and buying right sounds good to me. Pat

[David2011]

Hi Pat,

When I first started I was loading .38/.357 as well. I hated the case lube part and went with carbide dies at the first opportunity and have never bought steel dies when carbide was available since. I loaded .38s by the hundreds on a single stage press and still have the first one I bought. It's an RCBS JR series and was used when I got it in about 1982. It and a Rockchucker are still used regularly even though three Dillons have joined the single stage presses in the reloading room. The only rifle cartridges I've loaded on a Dillon are .45-70 which is functionally a huge pistol cartridge and .223 Remington. I find the preparation required for reloading bottleneck cartridges limits the speed gain of a progressive. For .223 they go to the case feeder only after being sized on a single stage press and trimmed. If the brass is 5.56 NATO, the primer pocket also has to be swaged or reamed before you can seat a primer. All the Dillon does for me is seat the primer, drop powder and seat the bullet. If I'm not loading lots of cartridges, the setup time for a progressive ends up making it take at least as much time as just going ahead and getting with it on a single stage. I've loaded about 300-350 rounds of bottlenecked rifle cartridges in .223 and 6.5x55 in the last few days and don't see how i could have done it faster on a progressive. They were for long range shooting so I preferred a single stage anyway.

Don't get me wrong; I LOVE the progressives, especially the Dillon 650 when cranking out lots of .40 S&W for action pistol shooting but I seldom load fewer than 400 or 500 rounds at a time on that press. The turret presses will run faster (and easier) than a fixed single stage and will also eliminate the variable of removing dies from the press and putting them back the same as last time if you buy the additional turret discs so you do have a lot of the benefits of a progressive.

On a single stage press with a 1-1/4"x12 thread the 7/8" bushing can be removed and the Hornady Lock 'n Load bushings used. They allow changing dies very quickly and hold their adjustments very well in my experience. Not everyone will agree with me. That's OK; it's only my opinion but it's based on living with a single stage since 1982 and my first Dillon was purchased in '91 or '92.

David

[mdi]

I would strongly suggest before you buy any reloading equipment, get a couple books. "The ABCs of Reloading" and "Lyman's 49th Edition Reloading Handbook". Read them and you'll have a good idea of the equipment that will suit your reloading needs. When you ask a "what is the best press" question, you will get opinions ranging from the $20 whack-a-mole Lee Loader to a $500.00 progressive, automatic every thing sky blue giant. My suggestion is start simple, learn what every step in reloading is and why it's done. This can be done on a Lee Loader, a single stage, turret, and progressive, but a single stage is simple, easy to use and understand, and not gonna cost a bunch to start...

[Old Caster]

I think starting with a Lee press would be OK even though I wouldn't even think of not using my Dillon now but who knows how deeply you will get into this hobby. The Lee stuff works OK especially for the money and if and when you decide that you need an upgrade you can get some of your money out of the used equipment because someone is always starting. If you feel that without a shadow of a doubt, you are getting in and aren't going to turn back, I would get a Dillon, so it is your choice based on what you think the future is. -- Bill --

[Don in Texas]

I started out with an RCBS beginners kit (Reloader Special?) back in '77 and have stuck with RCBS all that time. It's hard to beat their Master Reloading Kit for a good combination of quality and value. I also started out loading 38/357 for my S&W Model 27 which was my first major handgun purchase.

[Shiloh]

I've uses RCBS, Dillon, and LEE.

They all load good ammo. A match chambered precision firearm may demonstrate the difference, but nothing I have is that precise. That being said, I do use consistent reloading practices.

Shiloh

[williamwaco]

PAT:

Can you spell:

"analysis paralysis"

This is all good advice. Note how many different opinions there are!
Most of these tools are really excellent.
All of them can load better ammo than you can.

Eventually, you will have to make a decision and plunk down your money. When you do, buy something that appeals to you.

There is only one thing more exasperating than buying a tool and finding out you hate it. That is buying a tool you didn't really want because somebody told you it was "the best" and then finding out you hate it.

A large part of the pleasure of reloading comes from using a tool you enjoy.

I have been loading .38 Special and .357 Mag since 1956.
For .38 Specials in batches of 500 to 1000 I use the Hornady LNL AP.

For .357 Mag I load 100 to 200 at a time and I use single stage press Hornady LNL or RCBS RC.
Dies are RCBS Carbide - model of about 1965 +/-.

I make no claims that any of these are the "best".
I chose them because I like them and enjoy using them.

And they make really great ammo.

And so will you.



.

[DrCaveman]

Great words William. It makes me wish that there were places of business that let you rent or simply audition for function various reloading presses.

Maybe some of you know of places like this, I certainly can't find any in my area. Closest thing is Cabelas, but at my store the presses never have dies in them and they sure wouldn't let me tinker with primers in a store full of people.

Guess the next best thing is to find individuals who will graciously show you the ropes of reloading and let you try out their equipment.

Pat, there seem to be a fair number of Australians on this site, and they all seem pretty friendly. I know it is a big country but I'd bet that reaching out to them would help you as much as the (hugely varied) advice from the masses.

[PAT303]

This is the best forum,thanks everyone for the imput.I like the idea of the carbide dies as lubing a 100 cases every time is a pain but having dies that overwork cases is worse.I might go a Lee four holer with Hornady dies and see how I go.Thanks again. Pat

[Wayne Smith]

One question for you to consider - are you more interested in volume (semi-auto shooting) or precision, and by that I don't necessarily mean competition? If you are more interested in volume then anything from the Lee 4hole to the Dillon are appropriate. If you are more interested in precision you will never beat a single stage press. The other advantage of a single stage press is price, the Lee Cast is currently tops in quality/design issues and is not expensive.

It is distinctly possible, if not likely, that you will end up with at least two presses on your bench, one for volume and one for precision. If you think this is likely your end state all you need to decide is with which you wish to begin!

[PAT303]

Good point,looking at die sets whats better,normal or cowboy dies?,seeing that I'm only shooting cast the cowboy dies would be the better buy?. Pat

[DrCaveman]

Cowboy dies? I am not familiar. Can you enlighten? Maybe us casters are missing out on something.

It seemed like the majority of responders were pushing carbide dies, but some great arguments were made for steel, along with a handy tip for simplifying the case lubing process.

Another difference in die sets which may not have been discussed much is the method of case expansion/flaring and of course crimping. There must be a massive amount of discussion on these issues here, and what I have gleaned from many members is that they use dies from several manufacturers for one caliber.

Case in point, the Lyman M die is widely adored. The Lee factory crimp die for 357 is widely derided. You may need to buy a few die sets to settle on a combo you like.

[geargnasher]

RCBS makes "cowboy" dies designed for lead boolits and/or calibers that only shoot lead.

Gear

[ku4hx]

Dillon RL550B press and dies from a mainstream die maker such as RCBS, Lyman, Redding, Hornady and etc. I have a few Lee dies and have never had a problem with any.

My first press was a RCBS Jr. I bought circa 1970. I still have it and it still works very well. It's old, scared and well just beautiful to me. If I had to have only one press, that would be it.

If you can afford a carbide sizing die, the extra cost will be well worth it. If you load enough, not having to buy sizing lube will eventually pay for the marginal cost of a carbide die. Not to mention the time and effort you not have to spend.

[41 mag fan]

Gear made a good point on the Lee 4 holer...just make sure it's the 4 holer not the 3 hole. you can buy factory reconditioned or factory 2nds turrets and sometimes the press from Lees website. One thing I like on that is $5 shipping.

I've got the 4 holer and it's loaded 10's of thousands of rounds and still loads many a round, when I'm not using my LNL

I myslef don't like Lee powder measures, when using my 4 holer I use my Lyman DPS3. By the time I get one round loaded, my lymans got another powdwer charge waiting for me.

On Dies, we each have a preferance, Gear likes Steel, and so does many on here. And many of us like carbide. One thing I prefer is each die has a use I like.
As in, for a decapper, I like Lees, expander I like RCBS or redding and for bullet seaters I like Hornadys. And for FCD's I like Lees.
I might be a little off the beaten path in this, but over the decades i just liked certain dies for certain functions in each stage of reloading. So normally when I buy for a caliber, i've got 4 different brands of dies.
Heck maybe i'm eccentric, but it all seems to work for me andturns out ammo to my preferance.

Also if buying the lee turret go with the auto prime like gear advised. You wont be sorry you did.
For years I hand primed on my RCBS and finally after 5-6 yrs set up the auto prime on my Lee....
My RCBS collects alot of dust these days, I'm still scratching my head wondering why I waited so long to hook up my auto prime.

[Alan in Vermont]

I like the idea of the carbide dies as lubing a 100 cases every time is a pain but having dies that overwork cases is worse. Pat

I'm firmly in the carbide sizer camp. In my experience, based on repeated reloadings for the same cases, sized in carbide, I never had a case fail from sizing. When I was shooting silhouette I ran the same 300 or so 44 mag W-W cases for four years, no idea how many times the the first ones I bought went through the process as they were all mixed together. What cases I did lose were from mouth splits from the heavy crimp I used. These were fired with heavy loads of 296, IMR-4227, 2400 behind big boolits so they were stressed in both directions.

I also have a lot of 38 and 357 brass, again processed repeatedly, with ne evidence of overworking other than the occasional mouth split.

It is my firmly held opinion that carbide is no harder on brass than steel.

[ColColt]

Some of us, like me, are pretty much set in their ways about reloading. I've had RCBS presses and dies since about 1970. Prior to that I used Pacific dies and one of their "C-presses". Awful press as it would spring too much. It had a short life on my bench and was replaced by an RCBS Jr.

I've used standard dies with rifles decades ago but switched over to carbide dies in all pistol calibers long ago and wouldn't want to roll cases across that old sticky pad ever again.

Starting all over again today I'd still use the RCBS Jr or get a turrent press. I'm just plum skeerd of them progressive presses...don't trust them for measuring powder.

[KCcactus]

I've loaded many thousands of rounds over the years with my Lee turret press and Lee carbide pistol dies. I bought it about 1985. Back then, they only had the 3 hole, but offered it with auto-index, which I got. I also have their Auto-disk powder measure. I've been happy with the set-up. I recently added their Safety prime and mostly like it better than the old system.

If I bought a new one now, I would get the 4 hole with auto-index. They don't offer the 3 hole one with auto-index any more. I like my 3 hole press, but I don't like turning the turret by hand. I finally wore out the auto-index on mine, but fortunately had a spare from a second turret press I bought used years ago. They used to sell the auto-index parts separately, but I couldn't find anyone selling it. I just ordered the parts to convert my spare to a 4 hole with auto-index. Can you tell I like the auto-index?

My budget was pretty limited when I started reloading. My cousin showed me how to use his Lee set-up and I bought one just like it. I haven't felt the need to buy a more expensive press. If you want to see how the different presses work, there are probably videos of every set-up you can imagine on youtube. Lee has a few short videos on their website showing set-up and operation.

The best press and dies to use are the ones you have. Find a set-up you like and can afford that will do what you need and get it. You can always add more toys later, if you feel the need.

[williamwaco]

I use the Cowboy dies for my .38-55 and really like them.

They include two expander plugs. One is about .003 larger than the other. I don't remember the exact sizes.

This works great for old rifles with unpredictable bore sizes but I don't see any advantage at all for the .38 Special / .357 Magnum. I think you would be wasting your money .

.

[Elkins45]

I have two presses that see regular use, an RCBS Reloader Special 3 and a Lee Turret Press (older model). The RCBS is permanantly mounted to my bench and the Lee is on a removable plate system.

Here's the big question: do you think you will ever want to load full-sized rifle rounds someday? If yes then get some sort of beefy single stage press--there are dozens to choose from. If not then get one of the Lee turret presses.

[PAT303]

All my reloading up to now has been on an RCBS partner press I bought new 15 years ago,that little press has loaded 10's of thousands of rounds and would buy one again in a heart beat,thing is I need more production so a Lee four holer would suit.I like Gears idea on case lubing,I'm going to try that with rifle rounds. Pat

[meshugunner]

Like Pat, I bought a 686 and started reloading so that I could do some real practice with it. I went with the Dillon 550 because it is supposed to be able to crank out 400+ rounds per hour. I would like to shoot at least that many a week and I have trouble concentrating on repetitive tasks. I reload for 20 mins at a time and take breaks. Whenever I step away from the press I have complete bullets not groups of casings in various stages. I dont have to keep track of where I am. This works well for me. My output is nothing like 400 per hour yet but I'm improving. :)

[Lizard333]

You defiantly have to be in the "zone" to get 400+ rounds an hour out of a Dillon. I do it when loading for 38, 45, and 223.

[snuffy]

I can't recommend this strongly enough. Be sure it's the classic turret! The word "cast" doesn't belong in the description. Lee still sells what's being called the "deluxe" version of the 4 hole, auto-advance, it's NOT what you want! (Unless you want spent primers on your bench, in your lap, down your shoe, or on the floor!) The classic handles spent primers down the center of the ram, to be gathered into a plastic tube, or directed into a bucket.

I bought the older deluxe model about 10 years ago. I added turrets until I had 15 calibers/turrets. I bought it to keep up with demand for ammo, as I got into IDPA and IPSC shooting. It was much faster than my co-ax, but still was lacking in output. Money became available to buy a dillon XL650. I sold the lee turret with ALL those turrets to a buddy.

After nearly breaking the bank buying conversion kits for the 650, I bought a classic turret, the riser for the disc measure, the safety prime, and a rifle charging die. I load more on the classic turret than I do on the 650. Why? Because set-up is so simple, and the quantity is so close that I only do 9mm, 45 ACP, and .223 blasting ammo on the 650.

The classic turret is made of cast iron, instead of the flimsy aluminum casting on the deluxe. The linkage is also all steel, no more busted al. links. It also is auto advance, but the auto advance can be easily removed to use as a single stage.

I also bought a lee classic cast press. It's the massive single stage that's BETTER than a rockchucker.

[EDK]

IF you get a 550B DILLON, get their dies. The dies are designed for progressive presses and a lot less head ache and damaged casings. While not the cheapest to change calibers on, it is superb. I bought my first 550B around '91 or 92 and have replaced very few minor parts on it; my second was purchased in 2008 to "honor Mr. Obama's nomination." (This year's celebration will be as much primers and powder as I can afford.) I had a single stage, then a LYMAN T-MAG, then a SQUARE DEAL B, and now the 550B. It ain't cheap, but the 550B will do everything you need and then some...and will outlast your chilldren.

It is more money, but I'd get a single stage press AND the DILLON dies, and do my preliminary pistol reloading on it. You would then understand the processes and transfer the knowledge to your DILLON or whatever. The single stage press would be good for rifle reloading AND considerably cheaper to change calibers. You aren't going to be reloading the rifle calibers you mentioned in the quantities like your pistol ammo...OR 5.56 if you have an AR15 to feed. Rifle ammo eats up powder pretty quick and "J-words" ain't cheap. I now cast for my M1A and even with gas check prices, it is cheaper than buying 5.56 bulk bullets for my AR15 clone. (I have the luxury of a back yard shooting range up to 100 yards and reload for all my guns, but probably shoot 50 or 100-to-1 pistol rounds compared to the various rifles.)

Reloading is like owning a freezer in your home. You don't save a lot of money, but you sure eat better....on in this case, get to shoot more.

:redneck::cbpour::guntootsmiley:

[meshugunner]

I got my 550 with a 9mm setup. Adding .38Sp cost about $170 for dies, conversion kit, die holder and powder die. I didn't buy a second powder dispenser. Some calibers use the same conversion kit so you can save some money there.

Every thing about the 550 is first class except the primer feeder system which is something I would expect to find in Harbor Freight equipment. I don't understand how a company can manufacture something so fine and then make a Rube Goldberg primer system.

I agree with the suggestion to start with a single stage (I didn't have the patience). It's much less overwhelming and you will always have use for a single stage press even if you upgrade to a progressive. I just bought a Redding Boss from a member of this forum.

[BCB]

I guess maybe I will go against the grain a bit as it seems that the progressive reloading presses have been the top candidate of recommendation…

I started reloading the 357 Magnum in 1970± a year or so…

I purchased a Rock Chucker kit that gave me everything except a die set to get started reloading…

I purchased a carbide die and still use it to this day…

I honestly think that progressive reloading outfits may not be the way for a beginner to start out. They can be tricky and I have yet to figure out at what station I trim the brass if need be!!! I am, of course, being sarcastic about this…

And, I have yet to understand the bushing concept. I can set a die and unscrew it and screw it back in and it is still setup as when I started. A bushing adds another set of threads to just get out of adjustment. But maybe I really don’t understand the concept. Plus they cost extra money and you need them for each die and caliber you want to reload if you are going to let them on the dies…

I have used the same Rock Chucker to reload 26 different cartridges and have had nothing but success…

I am uncertain that a progressive reloading is needed for quality reloads such as some of the rifle calibers and maybe even some of the handgun calibers. Semi-auto shooters—maybe…

I guess if you are planning on shooting hundreds of 357 Magnums at a time, and then all of the time, maybe you better get a progressive. But other wise I would get the Rock Chucker kit and reload ammo…

I would have no idea how many rounds I have reloaded since the turn of the 70’s, but I did it all on my single stage RCBS…

Just my thoughts…

Good-luck…BCB

[1bluehorse]

I'd say everything written above is pretty much right on. (with the exception of the Lee safety prime not being worthwhile, if you set it up correctly it is a very quick and easy system). It would be extremely hard to come up with a better all around press than the Lee Classic Turret press. If you're not in one of the alphabet shooting sports or burning through 500 rounds or more a week a progressive press is overkill. They're definitly faster in rounds per hr. but it's much easier for errors to happen, the presses are more expensive and caliber changeovers take longer (different shellplates/and or primers) and are also more expensive. I have two on my bench and rarely use them, I'd rather use the turret press, but maybe thats just me. I'm sure some may disagree but good, accurate, ammo can be loaded on pretty much any press. The most important "tool" is the operator..

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg23/ruger45s/reloadingroom001-1.jpg

[Norbrat]

Something our brethren on the other side of the Big Pond may need to know is that getting reloading equipment here in Oz is not as easy and certainly nowhere near as "value for money" as it is for them.

For example, a basic Dillon 550 set up for one caliber will set you back AUD$550, close enough to US$550. http://www.nvt.com.au/p/712/dillon-550b-machine-basic-machine-with-caliber-conversion-included-14261c.html

Then the issue is that while it may be advertised, it is more often than not available only on "back order". That basically means "you order it and pay for it, and we will order it for you from the States and it will get here when it gets here" which could be 3 months or more!

And fergeddit if you want something a bit unusual; say a SAECO lubesizer, dies or top punches.

It is actually our best option to try to "import" our own stuff, although shipping costs, especially for heavy presses, etc, add even more to the cost.

Then we have many online dealers not willing to ship to Aust. Midway will not (although their Australian importer will do the "back order" trick and charge you double for the pleasure) Midsouth will with some serious conditions http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/internationalorders.asp and Graf's have a minimum $200 for "International" orders.

Anything from Lyman is locked down by our local importer who has effectively convinced many of his suppliers in the US to ban any direct sales; for example, you cannot buy a Leupold scope from Optics Planet and have it shipped to Australia.

So while suggestions for what might be best are welcome, in reality we often do not have the options and choices available to us.

At least Lee stuff is reasonably easy to obtain through local importers, and enough US based online dealers are willing to ship Lee stuff to us as well.

[ladOregon]

Hornady has come a long way in providing very good press and dies. They have a kick back program. Buy their dies and get a box of bullets. Buy their press kit and get 5 boxes of bullets. fair deal.

[meshugunner]

....
I purchased a Rock Chucker kit that gave me everything except a die set to get started reloading…

I purchased a carbide die and still use it to this day…

I honestly think that progressive reloading outfits may not be the way for a beginner to start out.

I thought long and hard about this and several times almost pulled the trigger on a Rock Chucker kit. You can get the whole set up except for dies for about $300. The Dillon 550 with all the necessary accessories came to about $750. Furthermore, to swap calibers on the 550 and keep it convenient is another $110 in addition to the dies( for shell plate, tool head, powder die etc). I was very hesitant to commit that much money and yes, take on the overwhelmingly complex task of figuring out a progressive press.

But you have to know who you are. I want to shoot several hundred rounds a week. A single stage press is capable, in skilled hands, of producing about 100 rounds an hour. I am profoundly ADD. I just can't concentrate on repetitive tasks for long periods. Nor would I do well with the strategy of performing one operation on all the cases and taking a break. I might never get back to it. With the Dillon I can satisfy my needs in an hour or so. I can take a break for 15 minutes and I leave behind me finished rounds. If I get distracted and dont return for a day or ten I dont have a bunch of open cases with powder in them.

I figured the extra $400 was worth it to prevent an accident at the range. And yes, it was an overwhelming task to figure the whole thing out but that's the sort of thing I do well.

In the end the 550 worked out very well for me and I ended up picking up a Redding Boss single stage anway so that I could size cast bullets but I do think that this is not the best approach for most people. Start with a single stage, learn how it works and then upgrade.

[H.Callahan]

I, too, would fall on the single stage side -- at least to start out with. When you are learning to reload, I don't think speed should be the driving force. Progressives and to a certain degree turrets are about speed. I think the new reloader would be better served learning the craft of reloading. Then, when they have mastered the process, a faster method could be considered.

With a single stage, there is no expectation of "400 rounds per hour" and less temptation to cut corners to try to get more speed. There is a lot going on all at once with progressives and without a good basic knowledge of what is good and what is bad, the safety margin is greatly reduced with them.

[mpmarty]

Well let's see here.... In the 1960s I wanted to reload rifle ammo and bought an RCBS Rock Chucker, a set of dies a scale and a Redding powder measure. Happy days! In 1986 I joined the local IPSC club and bought a Dillon 550B and that was the best purchase I've ever made in the shooting sports. The dillon is easy to understand, has enough die positions to process nearly anything and it WORKS. In the many years since buying the 550 I've added four top plate die holders and three different shell plates. I load 45acp, 308Win. 45/70, 7.5X55 Swiss as well as 9mm, 40S&W and 10mm on my Dillon. I do have a cheapie LEE "C" press that I use to pull bullets, deprime cases etc. The RCBS Rock Chucker is retired now. If I were just starting out I think knowing what I do now I'd just spring for a new 550B.

[paul h]

For single stage(but quickest and cheapest) die change outs, the Forster Co-ax is the best bet, making the most accurate reloads if done right. For progressives, the Dillon is king.

Definately the way to go, and I'd say even with a dillon, you'll want a co-ax.

I've used both lee's carbide 357 dies and dillon carbide dies. Lee carbide dies work every bit as good as other companies dies and I've never had a hickup with lee dies. That said, if you do go with a progressive press, I'd recomend the dillon dies. The mouth of dillon dies have a more generous flare and the brass will more easily be lined up with the dies vs. having the potential of a case "crashing" into a die.