Replacing engine on a Chevy Pickup

[DSL1138]

With me getting my learner's permit a little while ago and my 16th birthday not far away, my dad has given me his old 1994 Chevrolet Silverado as my first car. It's a great truck as is, but the engine has almost 200,000 miles on it, and various other problems to boot. So, my dad wants me to learn how to replace to engine once we get another one, and to be able to take the current one out and to put the new one in myself.

So, I have been searching on google and youtube for a while now, but to no avail. If anyone knows anything about these trucks or can provide a link that might help, it would be much appreciated. Specifics on the truck, it is a 1994 Chevrolet Silverado, Extended Cab, 350 cu. in. 5.7 L V8 Engine, 4-speed automatic transmition. Also, to anyone who is willing to help, please keep in mind that I am not a grease monkey by any stretch, and my knowledge of doing work on the truck ends at checking how much oil is in the tank. As I said earlier, any help I can get is appreciated.

[runfiverun]

you picked a good one to learn on,the chevy's are pretty easy.
mark everything.
the wiring and the vacume lines will be the hardest part.
follwed by the exhaust bolts.
if you aren't familiar with things either draw a picture [diagram] or take pictures.
put all the little parts in bags and lable them, along with the picture of the area.

the new vehicles look pretty intimidating but it's still just a motor under there.

[Mk42gunner]

you picked a good one to learn on,the chevy's are pretty easy.
mark everything.
the wiring and the vacume lines will be the hardest part.
follwed by the exhaust bolts.
if you aren't familiar with things either draw a picture [diagram] or take pictures.
put all the little parts in bags and lable them, along with the picture of the area.

the new vehicles look pretty intimidating but it's still just a motor under there.

If you have a digital camera, put in a new sd card and take pictures of everything as you go.

The vacuum fittings will be brittle after being under the hood for 18 years, be prepared to replace several of them. New vacuum lines will be a goood idea also.

The only thing I can think of that requires special tools are the fuel lines.

Robert

[greenbud]

If your doing an engine for engine swap in todays world of digital cameras take tons of picturs. Lable everything good masking tape and a marker

[CBH]

If you can find a good machine shop in your area, why not just rebuilt the current motor? Great learning experience and probably less expensive to boot. You'll learn much more rebuilding than simple replacement. I used a book "How to rebuild your small block Chevy" by HPBooks. Tells you everything . Just a thought. Good luck.

[tomme boy]

If it is running OK, the only thing that motor really might need is to have the distributur replaced. The bushings start to go out around 150K. It will start to lose power and miss. It will short out an leave you stranded. Very common for this style of dist.

[Stick_man]

If you can find a good machine shop in your area, why not just rebuilt the current motor? Great learning experience and probably less expensive to boot. You'll learn much more rebuilding than simple replacement. I used a book "How to rebuild your small block Chevy" by HPBooks. Tells you everything . Just a thought. Good luck.

+1 on everything said above. There is nothing easier or cheaper to rebuild than the small block Chevy (except maybe the Mopars from prior to the mid-70s).

Chiltons offers a pretty good book on the truck as well as the engine, although the HPBooks probably do a better job of detailing how to remove and reinstall engines.

Your local Auto Zone or Napa parts stores will have lots of information available.

[shooterg]

1994 is OLD ?

My "new" truck is a 1977 !!

[geargnasher]

Take lots of pictures, can't reiterate that enough.

Study every elecrical connector carefully before trying to defeat the latch, they're all different and if you break the latches they can be tough to replace or repair.

Buy several aftermarket repair books and read them. Follow the step-by-step, that way you won't forget things like torque converter bolts or the ground strap on the back of the passenger-side cylinder head.

Buy two cans of "PB Blaster" penetrant, and start soaking the exhaust flange nuts (the ones where the pipes hook up to the manifolds with the coil springs under the nuts) days before you attempt to remove them.

You will need some special tools that you can rent from Autozone or O'reilly's such as a harmonic balancer puller kit, installer kit, exhaust manifold spreaders, and a timing light to reset the distributor to "zero" after unplugging the timing connector.

If you don't own a 100lb torque wrench, buy one. Get a beam type, the "click" types are junk unless you buy professional grade.

Scribe the paint around the hood hinge bolts (reference marks for reinstallation) and go ahead and get it the heck out of your way right at the beginning.

All the bolts on the engine are fractional, all the others are metric. Many of the bolts, like the ones holding the transmission to the engine, have fractional threads and metric heads. You will need an inverted torx socket to remove the long stud going through the driver's side alternator/power steering bracket into the head. It's the one with the nut on it, the rest are bolts. The end of the stud has a six-point star on the end and you have to remove the stud to get the bracket off unless you take the whole front end off the truck.

That should cover the basics, it ain't rocket science, but there's a lot to cover here even with the simplest of engine swaps. At least the one you have only has five vacuum lines: Brake booster, PCV, cannister vent, supply to EGR vacuum switch, EGR vacuum switch to EGR valve, and HVAC supply.

Gear

[MT Gianni]

Tape similar bolts together. Use masking tape and write on it where they go. If there is an odd long or short one note that and which hole it goes into. Keep your parts clean, that means cover them up with old sheets or plastic.
I would also diagram what your compression was at each cylinder before you tear things down and anywhere else that looks to be important. Measure fuel and oil pressures. See what rebuilding will do for it.
I think a battery operated impact wrench will save your knuckles and still allow you to learn things. Get a good set of impact sockets. When you are done keep enough tools in it to do minor repairs. You will know a lot more then most folks do when you have finished.

[darkroommike]

Look into a Haynes manual, I prefer them to the Chilton's (both are good). And if you have a digital camera or camera phone (and what 16 yr. old doesn't?) take LOTS of pictures and write down every step. If it has AC do NOT disconnect the lines, just unbolt the compressor and move away from the block and you might not even need to recharge the AC. And if your school or community college has auto shop classes get to be a friend with the instructor.

[375RUGER]

Get a manual and study it. I've always used Haynes. Get a manual, I cannot stress this enough for someone your age to learn to use a manual.
My first engine swap was without manual but it was easy on a '69 442, and I had a mentor who knew what to do anyway.

[Hickory]

If no one has mentioned it, and I did not read all the posts.
But, with 200,000 miles you need to rebuild the transmission also.
And check and replace any needed front-end suspension joints.
With that done you should have a good truck for the next 15-20 years.

[Olevern]

I understand the benefit of learning on this job, but you might be buying an engine and doing a lot of work when that engine will probably last several more years before giving out on you. Average usage is probably about 12,000 miles a year, if you live rural add maybe 3 or 4 K more. My 1995 4 wheel drive chev. 350 is well over 300,000 miles and still runs and drives very nicely. It is a smoother ride than the 2002 Chev venture van my wife drives. Why spend a lot of money on transportation when there are guns out there to buy? Just my 2 cents worth.

[Reg]

If you decide to also go through the tranni, don't mess with rebuilding it. GM offers a factory reman ( auto) for about $2500.00 ( installed ) and it comes with a 3 year or 100,000 mi guarantee. If you put it in your self it will be quite a bit less. Can't mess with the old one for that and the guarantee is good.

PS

The older ones are better !!! Rode to Denver over the week end in a 2010 Silverado. Noisy and rode like a lumber wagon. Will keep my 96 GMC going as long as the fenders do not fall off !! Very quiet, no squeeks or rattles, very smooth ride,18 MPG and its PAID FOR !!!

[DSL1138]

Thanks for the input everyone, and I probably wont be rebuilding it as I know someone who is willing to sell me another truck of the same model (although it's transmission is broken) with an almost-brand new GM crate engine that has only 10,000 miles on it. Now, I am definately going to look into a manual, and I'll remember to use my camera as well as masking tape and markers, and I'll see about getting my uncle and grandfather (who are both grease-monkeys) to help me out to.

[MtGun44]

putting the bolts back in place immediately after removal or put them in groups into
baggies and label the baggie with a sharpy.

Read what gear said twice more and take notes.

Replace the belts, radiator hoses, water pump, and all vacuum and other rubber lines unless you know that they have been replaced within that last 5 yrs for certain.

[Blammer]

go to autozone get a Haynes manual for about $25 and read it!

It will have pretty much everything you need and have pictures. It's a good place to start.

I have a 1992 Chevy Silverado extended cab with the 5.7 aka 350 with TBI on it, with auto trans with OD aka 4 speed.

I recently pulled the motor had it rebuilt and put it back in. I may have some pics hanging around somewhere if I can find them. If you have some specific questions feel free to PM me.

Is your's Fuel Injected? or Throttle Body?

Oh yea, when you replace the motor, put in a new fuel pump too. Trust me, you'll need/want it.

[wallenba]

Think it through, make a check list. Then review it with your dad, in order to put it in a logical order. Take pictures, make notes. Have baggies to put small parts in, label them all. Put tape on all vacuum lines noting where they go. Lastly, don't skimp on the stuff you can fix easily while the engine is out. Such as the transmission converter seal.

[BD]

I put a crate motor in my '93 2500HD about 8 years ago. That 350 with the throttle body fuel injection is really pretty simple. If the motor you're getting didn't get a new distributor and oil pump when it was installed 10,000 miles ago, I'd replace them along with vacuum lines and ignition wires at the same time. Gear pretty much covered the tricky points that I can remember. When I did mine I had the time and space to pull the radiator and support which made things much easier to get at, and I had some profession help, (in exchange for a few cold ones), swapping the manifolds, setting it back up, timing it and getting it started. If the transmission has been maintained, and not abused, I wouldn't worry about it unless it demonstrates some issues. I plowed serious snow with my truck for 16 years, often with peg chains on all four wheels, and the tranny was still going strong at the end. That truck finally succumbed to rust last winter.
BD

[Reload3006]

you picked a good one to learn on,the chevy's are pretty easy.
mark everything.
the wiring and the vacume lines will be the hardest part.
follwed by the exhaust bolts.
if you aren't familiar with things either draw a picture [diagram] or take pictures.
put all the little parts in bags and lable them, along with the picture of the area.

the new vehicles look pretty intimidating but it's still just a motor under there.

better than drawing a picture get a camera and take pictures then you will know how its supposed to go back. and Label everything

[gwpercle]

1994 is OLD ?

My "new" truck is a 1977 !!

Since when is 1994 OLD.... I got socks and underwear older than that. Heck my daily driver is a 1968 Chevelle, been driving it since 1979 and we don't plan on stopping any time soon. You can do a swap or rebuild but it will be easier if you can get someone to help you. A crate motor/ exchange will be easier if you don't have experienced help.

[wv109323]

I will add one more thing that will help. Put the bolts in baggies and label them as to usage. ALSO write down what size wrench fits them. I think in 1994 you will get a mixture of SAE and Metric bolt heads.
I am working on a 1992 Mustang and it is difficult because there was no rythme or reason as to what is metric or Standard thread.
The intake manifold bolts were metric and then the four bolts in the corner s that bolts directly into the head are SAE.
It will save you lots of time if you knew what bolts go where and what wrench fits them. It will save you all lot of trips back and forth to the tool box.
+1 on pictures, Label all wire ends,hose ends.

[Recluse]

Why do you need to replace the engine? That's about as bullet-proof of an engine ever made. Unless it's giving you bad problems, get as many miles out of it as you can. I've got that same exact truck--1994 Chevy extended cab C1500 with the 5.7 V8. Got over 225,000 miles on it and the compression is still excellent, no oil consumption, no leaks/drips, etc.

I've replaced a lot of the peripherals--radiator, water-pump, alternator (five times), distributor, hoses, etc. I run the Penzoil synthetic 5W30 in it with a Bosch filter and change both out every 4,000 miles. They say you can go 10,000 miles on the synthetic oils easily, but I just can't go that long no matter what they say.

This fall I'm going to rebuild the entire front end--tie-rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, new springs, new steering, etc. I put a new transmission in it back in 2009.

No rust, interior still looks almost showroom new and she runs like a well-oiled sewing machine.

Those trucks will flat take care of you if you return the favor.

:coffee:

[Lloyd Smale]

i agree with the crate motor. It is going to cost you a bit more but everything is brand new and it has a warantee. You can go through all the bother of pulling and stipping down that old motor and find out the block is no good. With a crate motor everything is new and is good for another 200k. Ive seen long blocks as cheap as 2000 bucks. New heads and all. By the time you pull yours apart have it decked and bored replace all the bearings, cam, rings mains rods and cam bearings, freeze plugs, recondition your heads your going to have well over a grand into it if its done right. Add to that the new tools your going to need to do it and your going to be right up there at about the same cost as a crate motor especially if you factor in your time as being worth anything. Your better off to spend that time working a bit of overtime where you work and spending it on the crate motor. You will be missing one thing though. the pride and knowlege learned doing it yourself.

[DSL1138]

go to autozone get a Haynes manual for about $25 and read it!

It will have pretty much everything you need and have pictures. It's a good place to start.

I have a 1992 Chevy Silverado extended cab with the 5.7 aka 350 with TBI on it, with auto trans with OD aka 4 speed.

I recently pulled the motor had it rebuilt and put it back in. I may have some pics hanging around somewhere if I can find them. If you have some specific questions feel free to PM me.

Is your's Fuel Injected? or Throttle Body?

Oh yea, when you replace the motor, put in a new fuel pump too. Trust me, you'll need/want it.

I'm not really sure if it's Fuel Injected or Throttle Body, as like I said before, I'm not much of mechanic. And I am curious, why will I need/want to replace the fuel pump?


Why do you need to replace the engine? That's about as bullet-proof of an engine ever made. Unless it's giving you bad problems, get as many miles out of it as you can. I've got that same exact truck--1994 Chevy extended cab C1500 with the 5.7 V8. Got over 225,000 miles on it and the compression is still excellent, no oil consumption, no leaks/drips, etc.

I've replaced a lot of the peripherals--radiator, water-pump, alternator (five times), distributor, hoses, etc. I run the Penzoil synthetic 5W30 in it with a Bosch filter and change both out every 4,000 miles. They say you can go 10,000 miles on the synthetic oils easily, but I just can't go that long no matter what they say.

This fall I'm going to rebuild the entire front end--tie-rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, new springs, new steering, etc. I put a new transmission in it back in 2009.

No rust, interior still looks almost showroom new and she runs like a well-oiled sewing machine.

Those trucks will flat take care of you if you return the favor.

:coffee:

Yeah well, my grandfather purchased the truck back when it was new and worked it pretty hard, but about 10 or 12 years ago, he needed some money, so my dad bought it from him, and ever since then it's only been driven maybe once or twice a year, and right now the thing overheats bad when I run it, just yesterday I had to move it out from in front of my target I have in the backyard, and I hadn't even been running it for maybe a minute at the most, and the engine started smoking, so unlike yours, my truck hasn't been taken care of much at all, so the engine swap is definately needed.

[Norbrat]

If it's overheating, first place I'd look is the cooling system.

Is the thermostat stuck?

Is the radiator blocked?

Is the waterpump working? Agree that waterpumps usually fails by leaking, but who knows? Maybe the impeller has broken off.

If the engine runs, has good compression, doesn't burn oil and doesn't make any strange noises (bearing knocking, etc) I would check everything I could before spending the time, money and effort to replace an engine.

[Recluse]

I'm not really sure if it's Fuel Injected or Throttle Body, as like I said before, I'm not much of mechanic. And I am curious, why will I need/want to replace the fuel pump?

It's a throttle body--simple as it gets (read: RELIABLE).

As far as replacing the fuel pump? If you're going to go through the expense and trouble of replacing the engine, this is a good time to drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump. It's electric and it's not a question of IF it will fail, but rather WHEN it will fail. When mine failed, it only gave me ONE very minor indicator, which I stupidly ignored.

The tow-truck bill would've more than paid for the fuel pump part itself. [smilie=b:


10 or 12 years ago, he needed some money, so my dad bought it from him, and ever since then it's only been driven maybe once or twice a year, and right now the thing overheats bad when I run it, just yesterday I had to move it out from in front of my target I have in the backyard, and I hadn't even been running it for maybe a minute at the most, and the engine started smoking, so unlike yours, my truck hasn't been taken care of much at all, so the engine swap is definately needed.

Gotcha, and you're right.

Engines. . . worst thing you can is let them sit. They need to be cranked up and run regular and often.

My boat has set up for the past three years without being run, and I'm dreading what THAT may have done to her. . .

:coffee:

[Norbrat]

As far as replacing the fuel pump? If you're going to go through the expense and trouble of replacing the engine, this is a good time to drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump. It's electric and it's not a question of IF it will fail, but rather WHEN it will fail. When mine failed, it only gave me ONE very minor indicator, which I stupidly ignored.

The tow-truck bill would've more than paid for the fuel pump part itself. [smilie=b:


Usually, a couple of thumps with a rubber mallet under the tank will shake the fuel pump back into action enough to get you home. When they get old, they seem to "stick" in one spot as you switch off. BTDT a few times!

[koehn,jim]

Instead of buying a manual new they can be had on Amazon for about 17.00 instead of 25.00. I agree with those that suggest driving it as is until there is a problem.

[DSL1138]

If the engine runs, has good compression, doesn't burn oil and doesn't make any strange noises (bearing knocking, etc) I would check everything I could before spending the time, money and effort to replace an engine.

Well, I know the engine does make a knocking noise whenever I crank it or turn it off, and I'm not sure of the compression or the burning oil either, but my dad and my uncle (who has been taking engines out and repairing them since he was 16) both agreed that the engine needed to be either rebuilt or swapped out for another one.


As far as replacing the fuel pump? If you're going to go through the expense and trouble of replacing the engine, this is a good time to drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump. It's electric and it's not a question of IF it will fail, but rather WHEN it will fail. When mine failed, it only gave me ONE very minor indicator, which I stupidly ignored.

Oh, thanks for the info, if I'm lucky, this other truck I'm getting with the engine I'm going to use will have a fuel pump that will make a suitable replacement.

[FISH4BUGS]

1994 is OLD?
Goodness....my daily driver is a 1987 Mercedes 300 diesel with 345,000 miles on it. Doesn't burn a drop of oil and gets 35 mpg at 65......I make runs back and forth to New Jersey from New Hampshire all the time.
I think I would go with rebuilding the motor. Why not buy one from a junkyard and start assembling the parts for the rebuild and just drive it until it won't go any longer....then you will be ready......

[DSL1138]

1994 is OLD?
Goodness....my daily driver is a 1987 Mercedes 300 diesel with 345,000 miles on it. Doesn't burn a drop of oil and gets 35 mpg at 65......I make runs back and forth to New Jersey from New Hampshire all the time.
I think I would go with rebuilding the motor. Why not buy one from a junkyard and start assembling the parts for the rebuild and just drive it until it won't go any longer....then you will be ready......

Well, I call it old because it's been in my family since before I was born, so it's old to me.

[Recluse]

Oh, thanks for the info, if I'm lucky, this other truck I'm getting with the engine I'm going to use will have a fuel pump that will make a suitable replacement.

In all honesty, I'd just buy and install a new one. The cost of replacing a fuel pump isn't with the part itself, it's with the labor. Since you're going to have the truck taken apart anyhow, I'd go ahead and drop the gas tank and just replace it with a new one--then not have to worry about it for probably at least 100,000 miles.

With a used one or one that's been sitting, you just never know. What I do know is that a fuel pump NEVER fails at a "good time." :)

Oh, and one other thing about extending the life of a fuel pump. . .

Fuel pumps are electric devices and electric devices generate heat. Because they are immersed in gasoline, which is a liquid and also a cooling material, if you keep at least a quarter of a tank (or more) of gas in the fuel tank, your fuel pump will stay a bit cooler which means it will last a bit longer.

:coffee:

[bob208]

my first car was a 61 chevy 2 door. my father found it for me with a bad motor. cost me $60. grandfather gave me a good motor. father said you figuer it out you will have a car to drive. tok 2 weeks.

the newest car i have is a 66 corvette. i have chevy trucks from 38 to 72. i will not own a car unless it is p.c. that is precomputer.

[Recluse]

the newest car i have is a 66 corvette.

OK, I'm drooling so bad it's making it hard to type this, but do you have a picture?

I'm in absolute lust with a 'Vette/Stingray of the '68 to '74 vintage.

:coffee:

[geargnasher]

It's throttle-body fuel injection. Two big, low-pressure injectors mounted above the throttle plates. Basically a carburetor with electronic fuel control instead of vacuum/venturi.

If you do the fuel pump, just pull all the bed bolts on the driver's side, loosen all the ones on the right side, disconnect the rear lighting harness back at the end of the left frame rail, pull the three screws holding the filler housing to the bed skin, and tilt the bed up on the left and block it with large wood blocks. You can sneak under the bed and remove the fuel lines, ground wire at the frame by the pump, unplug the harness, clean the mud off from around the hold down ring, unscrew it with a hammer and large screwdriver, and remove the whole assembly. Don't bother replacing the pump unless you get a new sock filter and in-tank wiring harness, the harness causes most of the failure and the new pump won't come with a sock filter. Also replace the in-line fuel filter on the frame rail. All four items are less than $100 combined. Save and reuse the original pump housing gasket, you will lose your religion trying to use the new one that comes with the pump, every one of them is just a hair too small in diameter and won't lay in the groove in the top of the tank. Also replace the o-rings on the ends of the fuel lines.

That's a freebie that will save you hours of work under the truck fighting the tank straps and having to jack the thing way up in the air, not to mention the nightmare involved with disconnecting/reconnecting the hardened rubber filler and vent hoses.

Gear

[blackthorn]

I had a 1991 GMC 3/4 ton and I had to replace two fuel pumps! Both lasted just over 100,000 miles so the advice to change it is very good advice! The second time the pump went there was no warning, I was 54 Km back in the bush at my cabin (fishing/hunting). Got a ride into town from another cabin owner and---- thank goodness for BCAA!!!

[pmeisel]

A good resource site is hotrodders.com -- friendly people with all sorts of different takes on the automotive hobby. They helped me through a lot of problems rebuilding a jeep.

[Beagler]

I agree my local NAPA has a custom machine shop. Old Al does a great job. Napa even does old cast iron small engines for me. Cheeper than buying a new shortblock
If you can find a good machine shop in your area, why not just rebuilt the current motor? Great learning experience and probably less expensive to boot. You'll learn much more rebuilding than simple replacement. I used a book "How to rebuild your small block Chevy" by HPBooks. Tells you everything . Just a thought. Good luck.

[EDG]

Take a look at Scoggins-Dickey or Jegs. Talk to your buddies and you will eventually find a new Chevrolet crate motor long block - as in all new parts (not re built or remanufactured) for about $1500 plus or minus a little.
Get the original factory manual. Yeah they are expensive but they are much better than the crappy parts house fakes.

Plan the job well and make a good list.
I like to find a dead motor and pull the manifolds and have them cleaned and repainted. I like to replace the exhaust manifold bolts if they look tired. Assemble the new motor to the point needed to minimize work on it in the truck.
Get everything ready. As mentioned above change the fuel pump and filter and make sure the new one works well. Change vacuum lines, hoses and other things replaced. Check your exhaust pipes and mufflers.

Then have someone help you pull the front clip off the truck so you can work on the motor right on the frame.
remove the old motor accessories then the old motor. If your old transmission needs repair or replacement do it now. At least replace the transmission front seal and check the flex plate. Check the U joints while you have the transmission out. Replace the engine being careful not to drop something down the throttle body. If the radiator is shot think about canning it too. Put it all back together.
Prime the oil pump and get pressure to the entire motor before starting it. Make sure you do not have an airlock when you fill it with coolant/antifreeze. Think about replacing the starter.( At least check the brushes)
Do a quality job on each part. Put it all back to gether. It should run about another 20 years.

[oldred]

Rebuilding that motor will be worth every penny of the cost just for the education alone not to mention the pride that comes from hearing it run after reassembly! You were given good advice about buying a repair manual but DON"T BUY A CHILTON'S!!! Chilton manuals are a bad joke, they will spend half the pages of every section telling you to jack up the vehicle, block the wheels, raise the hood, etc or worthless information that's simply common sense then they cover the repair in the broadest terms giving very little useful info. One of their common lines for items that require proper settings is to "adjust as required" without giving any hint of proper adjustment procedure! :veryconfu The Hyanes manuals are a heck of a lot better but even they sometimes leave out important info and can even sometimes give wrong info (for example the wrong firing order on Ford 5.0 engines in at least one issue but I have found several other errors). If you decide to rebuild that engine then you need another book to go with the Haynes, "Rebuilding the small block Chevy engine" (Can't remember the author's name) available at most chain auto parts stores and it is an excellent how-to on these engines, it goes into specifics and has a lot of tricks-of-the-trade type info specific to these engines.

[rockrat]

Too bad you aren't close to me. I had a 94 and had picked up a tranny from a 94 truck that had been rolled at 7K miles. It was a spare, in case I would need it.

I would give it to you.

[Frosty Boolit]

smoke could be from a seized a/c compressor, or water pump, hence the overheating.