I just bought a 36 cal flintlock

[DCP]

I just bought a 36 cal flintlock

Where is the best place to learn about making or buying flints

Can one take a Granite Pestle and Mortar and make 3f finer for the priming pan

or
Should one use a wood Pestle and Mortar

or
Just use the 3f in the pan


Thanks

[Mike Brooks]

3fff works fine for the pan. Google Track of the Wolf and get your flints.

[Maven]

"Can one take a Granite Pestle and Mortar and make 3f finer for the priming pan or
should one use a wood Pestle and Mortar?"

DCP, I have a ceramic mortar & pestle, which my father used for compounding as a pharmacist. When I got my first flintlock, I used it to reduce FFg to ~FFFFg for priming. However, I used only 1 tablespoon at a time, wore a full face shield, and worked slowly...and gingerly. It worked well enough until I was able to purchase FFFFg.

[JMtoolman]

Another thing you can do to get your priming powder is to take a can of 3FFF, and a small hand sifter. You know the ones that look like a big flour sifter. Pour a small amount of 3F into it and shake gently over a bowl. You will get fines out of the 3F powder that is what the 4F size is. Do a small amount at a time, and out of a pound you will get enough to last for long time. The toolman.

[Hanshi]

I'm in agreement with Mike Brooks. I prime with 4F but only because I have plenty. When I've had to prime 3F I couldn't tell any difference.

[JDL]

Probably 12 years ago, I was in camp during MZ season and a discussion arose about what was the best priming powder size. A friend from Arkansas said he used a powder from deactivated grenades and IIRC, was 10Fg. I remember it being much finer than my 4Fg.

[DIRT Farmer]

I try for the most consistant ignition time I con get. It is most likely just part of the head game but a lost target in clay target shooting is one I don't need to loose. Most of my slow ignition comes from a weak spark generaly a dull flint. I keep nul-B from Swiss in my shooting box along with Goex ffffg for priming, The Goex works better on damp days, in perfect conditions the null-B being finer and unglazed is the ticket. The size of the lock and flint make a difference, my brown bess will fire better than 10% of the time without priming, smaller locks are more persnickity.
There are several places to buy flints, Log Cabin Shop, Dixie Gun Works and when I get to Friendship in June I plan to get another bag (250 flints) from Stone Wall Outfitters, the best deal I know being as I havent learned to make them yet.

[405]

Probably 12 years ago, I was in camp during MZ season and a discussion arose about what was the best priming powder size. A friend from Arkansas said he used a powder from deactivated grenades and IIRC, was 10Fg. I remember it being much finer than my 4Fg.

!! The only really fine grain stuff I've seen used in explosive devices had kind of a silvery look and had a very high velocity nature to it , if memory serves. Acted somewhat like blackpowder on steroids. I'm sure it would work well for pan ignition in small quantities. Using in a main charge by mistake- yeow!

[waksupi]

You used to be able to get "sweepings", but I don't know if they are available anymore. Only available at the plant. It is very fine powder, like flour, and tends to draw moisture rather quickly.

[Lead Fred]

I buy a can of 4f about every 10-12 years.
Some folks laugh at the price tags on some of my black powder.

larger grains only delays burn time.

You want it to go poof

[Ajax]

http://www.huntingpa.info/2010/03/rich-pierce-gunflint/ rich makes great gunflints and is very reasonably price.


Andy

[telebasher]

http://www.huntingpa.info/2010/03/rich-pierce-gunflint/ rich makes great gunflints and is very reasonably price.


Andy

This guy is all you need to furnish your flints. He will send you the flints for you to try in your gun then you send him the money if you like them, if not send the flints back. His flints are as good as you can buy anywhere. I have tried all the English and French high dollar flints and Richs Missouri flints are sparkier! Buy American!!!

[Boerrancher]

I make all of my flints out of good old Burlington Chert from here in MO. It is harder and tougher than the hubs of hell and stays sharp forever. I have yet to have one of my Burlington flints give me any grief. If you wish to learn how to make your own, it is really no big deal. You just need a good hunk of flint, a rounded smooth rock to use as a hammerstone, and a long deer antler tine to use as a pressure flaker. Use the hammerstone on a corner to drive off a long flake. Then use the antler tip to apply inward and downward pressure to the edges of the flake to remove smaller flakes to shape it up. Keep in mind the angles of what a gun flint looks like and with a bit of practice you will soon be knocking out gun flints like a pro.

Best wishes,

Joe

[FLINTNFIRE]

I also use 3f , works fine in mine , as there are not to many dealers of black powder any where close , sifting it will work also as already suggested , Meal-d is a finer mix , and there was a 5f also , and then of course there is also making your own , as to making flints there are several good books on flint knapping

[waksupi]

The Burlington flint/chert is hard and sparky. I've used some, but now reserve them for emergency use. I noticed that the gun I had used them in for a season of competition, that the frizzen was showing exceptional wear, and needed replaced.

[pietro]

Call me Lay-z, but I've been using FFFg for both main charge & prime forever, w/o any issues - Goex Holy Black, at first, now Swiss.

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