NOE HP pins and dimple/post

[Tonto]

Just has a session with a new NOE 35-180 WFN and started with the non-hp pins in the mould. This is the new group buy brass mould, a true beauty and work of art. Casts beautiful bullets too but the nose has often either a divot or a short post depending on how the pin seats with each pour. Any tricks to get a consistent result? I suspect it doesn't matter beyond aesthetics but wanted to ask.

[zuke]

Run the lead hotter

[Blammer]

sounds like you have good heat on the lead and your mould temp is good too.

to me this is more of a technique issue than a heat issue.

the trick is to get the pins to seat the same way for each pour.

I usually findout how the pins set and how the boolits look. then remember it and try to cast cosistently.

for some moulds closing it with the sprue up causes the pins to set the way I want. Some with the sprue down.

I usually give a gentle shake/tap, Just before closing the mould and the pins set the same way each time. I do this either sprue up or sprue down. Pick one way and be consistent and it's all good.

[dmize]

From my own experience with a .501 NOE mould and looking at other people's pics I came to the conclusion that a nose divit is normal

[Tonto]

Ran the mold with hp pins and again with fp pins with an eye towards technique and much more consistent results, especially with the fp pins. Turning the mould upside down to dump with a slight tap on the hinge before closing seems to show promise. Still some variation but much less with technique...metal plenty hot (WW) and mould up to temperature, well fluxed too. Brass mould is heavy, especially after casting with aluminum moulds but the results are great. Bullshop lube applied to pin channels in mould blocks helps things slide easier too. HP pins sprayed with mould release helpful too. A little more tinkering but results well worth it. Even the double cavity mould cranks out a pile quickly. A 5-cavity brass mould must weigh a ton though. Weights for FP were 183.5 and the HP 171.5 or so.