PDA

View Full Version : How many cavity mold to buy ?



mikeh3
04-12-2007, 08:16 AM
As you can tell by my previous post "Help with what lee mold to buy", I'm just starting to get into the cast bullet game. My next question is how many cavity mold should I buy. It would seem the more cavities the better but like I said, I'm just getting started and their may be something that I'm not thinking about. Please advise. Thanks

Lloyd Smale
04-12-2007, 08:45 AM
best off to start with a couple two cavity molds. Get the hang of casting and then you will be able to answer your own question based on how much production you need and how much time you want to spend casting vs. mold price.

Bret4207
04-12-2007, 08:47 AM
Start with a 1 or 2 cavity mold, any brand, and go for quality until you get the hang of casting. Actually trying 4 or 5 single cavities would be the best way. 2 moulds from the same maker of the same design can be 2 completely different animals. Start with a six cav aluminum and you have 6 times the start up issues to deal with, and a lot more money lost if you ruin a mould in the learning process.

BruceB
04-12-2007, 09:35 AM
Lee has recently made what I think is a wise move.

They've begun making many of their RIFLE moulds in two-cavity format, where previously only the pistol designs were to be had in two-bangers. This offers a very useful gain in output without a lot of extra expense, and I'm going to be upgrading at least couple of mine to 2-cavity in the near future.

I've never owned a six-cavity Lee, nor do I believe I need such a critter. When my 2-cavity moulds (Lee, Lyman, RCBS etc etc) can turn out four hundred-plus bullets per hour, and the 4-cavity jobs can push the 1000/hr figure, I just don't need SIX cavities.

For starters, Lee 2-cavity moulds will be fine. I've been at this casting madness now for over forty years, and although I use a lot of more "up-scale" moulds than my Lees, the humble Lee products still give me a lot of excellent bullets....and their .338-220 is still the BEST .338 design that my various .338 rifles have found.

"K-I-S-S" is still mighty good advice, and not just for beginners, in a lot of cases.

MT Gianni
04-12-2007, 09:58 AM
I have several Lee 6 cavity molds mainly copies of molds that are "out of print" or too unaffordable if one does come upon an original. I would trade any of them in a heartbeat for the original design in a good dimensioned 2 cavity LY Saeco or RCBS. Some of my best shooting loads come from single cavity molds,, the production rate is down but the consistency is very high. Gianni.

Sundogg1911
04-12-2007, 12:11 PM
I would suggest getting 2 double cavity molds. Start off using just one untill you develop a rythm. at this point you can add the second 2 cavity mold. once you master 2 molds at a time you might want to move up to a six cavity. use it by itself until it has become second nature, then add one of the 2 cavitys so you're now casting with a 6 and a 2, after this starts going way too smoothly, you're ready to add a 3rd. :drinks: I've never been able to keep more than 3 molds going smoothly. after you have this mastered you can use 3 six cavitys, 3 two cavitys, or any combination of 3 molds. This is what has worked the best for me. You may be different, but after you've got the hang of 2 molds, you'll know what's going to work the best for you. There's no one way to do this, so it's best to read how everyone else does it and from that point you can see what works best for you.
I hope I didn't make that answer as confusing as it just looked to me when i read it.:-?

Larry Gibson
04-12-2007, 01:05 PM
Good input on using 1-2 cavity moulds in the learning process. MT Gianni nailed the best reason; The BEST accuracy will come from a single cavity mould or two cavity moulds with one cavity dimpled so you can sort the bullets. A good multiple cavity mould will produce some good accuracy but not the best. During my recent tests with the recent 6 cavity GB 8mm mould I purposily cast 20 good bullets with one cavity. Then when I had a good accurate load developed with the multiple cavity bullets, a 2 Moa at 100 yards for 10 shots, I shot 2 10 shot strings with the bullets from the single cavity of that mould. Both groups were less than 1 1/2 MOA. If pure accuracy is your game then that's a good reason to go with the single cavity. However for the purpose of what I shoot my Mausers for the loss of 1/2 MOA is of little consequence compared to the convienance of casting a large quanity of bullets in short order. However the advise is good, learn (at least the basics as we all here are still learning) on one or two cavity moulds then go for it.

Larry Gibson

mikeh3
04-12-2007, 01:36 PM
What a great site!!!!
Thanks to everyone for the advice.
I'll start simple.
Thanks

1Shirt
04-13-2007, 09:19 AM
Agree with Larry Gibson on single cav factor of accuracy. I like gang molds for pistol blts. only, and weigh all rifle blts. There is often a slight variation between what comes out of a two cav mold if you weigh them. Also there is often a minute difference in the base of one or the other of those cast in double cav. molds. In addition, gang molds are heavy and hard on the wrist if you cast very often. I also think that the recommendation(s) to start with a lee make sense just based on economy. Good luck!
1Shirt!:coffee:

mooman76
04-13-2007, 11:43 AM
I agree with everyone else. Get a 2 cavity mould first to develop your skills. If you get a larger one beggining out they can beflustrating espesially starting out and you may get discouraged and quit befor you learn how to get flustrated with the smaller moulds!

leftiye
04-13-2007, 03:40 PM
And besides, If you start with a gang mold you'll just throw most of them back anyway. FWIW

Ken O
04-13-2007, 10:11 PM
I agree with the above. Also the Lee has a shorter learning curve than the others because it heats up faster. I have a few Lee six gang molds, I use one a lot... the .452 200gr SWC. One problem I have with the lees is every cavity can be different, what I do is drop a bullet from each cavity and measure. The ones that are small I drill in the base of the bullet and put a lag bolt. Put a little valve grinding compound on it, close the mold and use a drill with a socket to open the cavity. Its a little trouble to get them the same, but they are a very good value.
That said, I much prefer the steel molds, one mold I use a lot is the Lyman 452374, (45acp 230 RN) four gang. It is very consistant from gang to gang, I'm not real concerned with the weight, but the size matters, which if you have the one, you should have the other.
I shoot ISPC, Idpa and Steel Challenge, so I use a massive amout of bullets. The SWC goes in the 1911, and the RN goes in the S&W625 (revolver).