Rapine Mould Prep

[DanM]

I have been using this stuff on all my molds with good results, but molds are not what i want to mention here. Yesterday, I got a wild hair, and coated the bores of two .45s with this stuff before an extended shooting session. My .45 CBs feed and shoot exceptionaly well, but they do leave a little lead in the barrel after 200+ rounds. Not a problem, since I have a Lewis gadget, and a chore boy, and one or two passes with either gets it all out. This time none of that was needed. A few passes with a wet brush, and three GI patches, and I was done. Obviously, I can't be drawing any definite conclusions from just one shooting session, but I will be trying this again....

[homefront]

Dan,

That's very interesting. Please keep us posted. :coffee:

[John Boy]

... if I am not mistaken, the Rapine Mold Release is graphite with an alcohol based carrier.

Is the concept new? Nope ... Harry Pope's favorite lube was:
6 oz. beef tallow all by weight
4 oz. baybarry wax
2 oz beeswax
2 oz. synthetic sperm oil
1 heaping teaspoon of fine graphite powder

[dromia]

Dan,

do you use Rapine mould prep on Lee 2 or1 gang moulds, I've found the stuff to work fine on steel moulds and the alignment lugs/pins on the lee but useless on the Lee sprue plates.

I'm awaiting some Bull Plate lube to try as well.

[Larry Gibson]

Dan,

.... I've found the stuff to work fine on steel moulds and the alignment lugs/pins on the lee but useless on the Lee sprue plates.....


What do you mean by "useless"? I've been using it on all my moulds, including Lee moulds and thier sprue plates. No problems that I'm aware of but I might not be seeing everything.

Larry Gibson

[dromia]

Useless in the sense that it doesn't work, it rubs off the sprue plate and the top of the mould after a couple of passes and doesn't stop the chaffing like a touch of beeswax does.

On the alignment pins/grooves it stays in place and you can feel the mould easing smoothly into place as you close it.

I've thoroughly cleaned the moulds and eased the plates at tad but it doesn't seem to want to work.

Any suggestions welcome.

[DanM]

I am using it on Lee molds, and I find that they go longer between cleanings, and are easier to clean when they need it. It works on the pins and screw threads too. I was hoping that someone had tried it for coating a bore. It seems to make for easier bore cleaning too....

[Larry Gibson]

Useless in the sense that it doesn't work, it rubs off the sprue plate and the top of the mould after a couple of passes and doesn't stop the chaffing like a touch of beeswax does.

On the alignment pins/grooves it stays in place and you can feel the mould easing smoothly into place as you close it.

I've thoroughly cleaned the moulds and eased the plates at tad but it doesn't seem to want to work.

Any suggestions welcome.

Yup I get the "chaffing" in a couple spots but never noticed it to damage anything. More like just rub marks to me. I like the Rapine Mould Prep as the sprues fall off easily not sticking to the sprue plate. I "prep" the mould before the casting session and even after some lengthy casting of large numbers of bullets have yet to have to re-prep.

BTW; I don't use a wood or plastic mallet to knock open the sprue plate. I use a thick leather work glove and twist the sprue plate open. Perhaps that's why I don't have severe chaffing problems.

Larry Gibson

[Larry Gibson]

I am using it on Lee molds, and I find that they go longer between cleanings, and are easier to clean when they need it. It works on the pins and screw threads too. I was hoping that someone had tried it for coating a bore. It seems to make for easier bore cleaning too....

I've not used the Rapine Mould Prep for coating the bore but I have sprayed some long nose bullets that were severely engraved and riding the bore with Midways Drop Out, a similar graphite product. It stopped the minimal leading I was getting and accuracy seemed to improve. I didn't do a thorough test of it at the time so can't say the Drop Out really improved hings. It's one of those projects I've got on the "to do" list. Might have to try some bullets sprayed with it in the 1-14" Palma barrel as I am driving the bullets pretty fast in it.

Larry Gibson

[Bullshop]

Dromia
Help is on the way from Alaska. Should be somewhere over the Atlantic now. I would love to see a comperison test posted here at CB.
I just asked BS Mom if she sent instructions with it and she said *well yea, I I I think* If she is wrong first please let me know as I always enjoy pointing that out to her, then we will get them to you via E-mail or PM.
BIC/BS

[dromia]

Thanks Dan I look forward to trying it out.

Larry I gave up whacking moulds years ago, braying hell out of a precision tool doesn't seem quiet right some how.

[Larry Gibson]

Thanks Dan I look forward to trying it out.

Larry I gave up whacking moulds years ago, braying hell out of a precision tool doesn't seem quiet right some how.

Surprising how many still wack on 'em, probably because that's what the Lyman and RCBS manuals show.

Larry Gibson

[3sixbits]

Good molds never need wacking, it's the bad molds that need to be wacked. "Spare the rod and and spoil the mold"