So I met this old girl from South Bend wants to come home with me.

[Just Duke]

Yea the fella says she's a Heavy 10 South Bend? I hope I got that right. (I was eye oogling a Baldor buffer he was selling.) She came from a school so she might be 3 phase.
He has 2...... And maybe 8 more scattered about from other origins Atlas I think? Wifey says she would fit in the garage :D and move up north with us in a horse trailer.
She big enough to help me put barrels on?
As if I don't have enough junk to work on as it is...... <scratching head>
Many a hours I spent with gramps ( former Chief Design Engineer @ Norden Bombsight Factory in IN.) helping him on his lathe. Thought he would out live us all. <reminiscing>
I would not even consider this if I....... Oh! So sorry! Let me introduce you to my new set of eyeballs http://castboolits.gunloads.com/images/smilies/popcorn.gif HERE (http://www.magnifiercity.com/bauschandlomb81-42-00magnavisormagnifyingvisor.aspx)

[crowbuster]

Sounds like a good gal to have around, many uses. Been following your posts and really hate whats been delt you, make the best of it and by all means, those magnfiers are cheap enough, hope they are the ticket for you, god bless.:Fire:

[gzig5]

The SB Heavy 10 is a fine gunsmith lathe. Short spindle length with a 1.3" bore makes for easy chambering through the headstock if you don't want to use a steady rest. Tons of parts, new and old available. Mine should be back together and running soon.

[Just Duke]

The SB Heavy 10 is a fine gunsmith lathe. Short spindle length with a 1.3" bore makes for easy chambering through the headstock if you don't want to use a steady rest. Tons of parts, new and old available. Mine should be back together and running soon.

Doesn't look big enough to do barrel contours though.

[Just Duke]

Sounds like a good gal to have around, many uses. Been following your posts and really hate whats been delt you, make the best of it and by all means, those magnfiers are cheap enough, hope they are the ticket for you, god bless.:Fire:


Thanks CB. :grin: I've been reading over at http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/ and from what they say it's pretty easy to disassemble which is good for me as I would rebuild it and paint it gloss black epoxy or gloss white epoxy. I like the gloss black myself for it gives that 1930's Art Deco steam engine look especially with the bare metal parts either sent off for chrome plating or polished on a buffer. She would look real good then sitting in one of the out buildings with a white rubber-ish garage floor coat, white textured FRP paneling and a plethora of can lights fitted with LED floods.


THE PICS HERE ARE NOT MY LATHE'S

Here a little one here with her black paint job as a color reference.
Bad choice for a mounting surface. That top will shrink and split right down the middle come summer as the bolts will hold fast.
Looks scarey top heavy too.
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad54/LEVERACTIONSHOOTERS/LATHE/CCBOB14.jpg

Wifey thinks gloss white would help with light reflection. :roll:

Here's a smaller 9 incher disassembled. I have never had one apart myself but if I was designing one I would say the main bearing would be sort of babbet 2 piece unit to eliminate deflection.
I would surely think the long leadscrew for the power drive would be a high wear item and in need of replacement.
I would also haul the base down to the local ship yard with a couple cases of brewskies and hand full of pesos's and have the ways reground
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad54/LEVERACTIONSHOOTERS/LATHE/6554945823_8609216012_b.jpg

[Frank46]

Duke, nice lathes. The leadscrew which makes the carriage travel isn't a problem. You can buy
acme threaded rod cheap and most likely in the thread pitch you'll need. And acme taps can be bought as well for the half nuts. Look at it this way, now that you have the two little ones getting all the new tooling for the big one is somewhat like Christmas shopping. You get to open all those nice heavy boxes and clean up your new toys. I have had my lathe for a few years and slowly but surely been getting all those must have goodies. Frank

[Just Duke]

Duke, nice lathes. The leadscrew which makes the carriage travel isn't a problem. You can buy
acme threaded rod cheap and most likely in the thread pitch you'll need. And acme taps can be bought as well for the half nuts. Look at it this way, now that you have the two little ones getting all the new tooling for the big one is somewhat like Christmas shopping. You get to open all those nice heavy boxes and clean up your new toys. I have had my lathe for a few years and slowly but surely been getting all those must have goodies. Frank

Frank, Thanks for the heads up on the lead screw. They are just stock pics I got off a website to show color and disassembly. The lathe's don't belong to me.

[gzig5]

Doesn't look big enough to do barrel contours though.

If it is a short bed model, you simply have to do the contouring in sections of 10" or so and blend the junction. You get a lot less chatter that way. A 22-30" barrel can really resonate and make contouring a chore if it is done full length on a relatively light lathe, which the 10L is.

[Just Duke]

I just found out it's to small for barrel contours. Oh well. I'll look again in a few months.

[gzig5]

I just found out it's to small for barrel contours. Oh well. I'll look again in a few months.

How is it too small? If the barrel can be fit partly in the spindle, the job can be done is sections. No need to do it all at once. Have you ever tried to profile a long barrel that spans 20+" between the mounting points? Unless you have a very large and heavy lathe tool chatter can be considerable and its will still be present on a large lathe unless you have a special follower rest. Gunsmiths have been using short SB 10L's for decades for all manner of barrel work. You just have to use your imagination to help get the job done.

[M-Tecs]

I have very large and heavy lathes. Chatter is still a problem. Normally I order the blanks in the contour I or the customer wants. For the average home setup doing the barrel in sections is your best bet. I do have a CNC lathe that I built a hydraulic follower that I can do contours on. I don’t chamber between centers so bed length is not an issue for me.

[Just Duke]

Thanks guys. I will just order barrels pre-contoured.

[theperfessor]

One time I contoured a barrel blank between centers on my Clausing. Took me all day, even with a ready rest. Chatter is caused by the machine, the tool, and the part, and a gun barrel is a long skinny tube that wants to ring like a wind chime. Heaven help you if your RPM matches the resonant frequency! Cut the unsupported length in half, and the strength goes up by a factor of four and the deflection goes down to 1/4 the original value.

This is not a comment or recommendation to buy or not buy any particular piece of equipment.

[Just Duke]

One time I contoured a barrel blank between centers on my Clausing. Took me all day, even with a ready rest. Chatter is caused by the machine, the tool, and the part, and a gun barrel is a long skinny tube that wants to ring like a wind chime. Heaven help you if your RPM matches the resonant frequency! Cut the unsupported length in half, and the strength goes up by a factor of four and the deflection goes down to 1/4 the original value.

This is not a comment or recommendation to buy or not buy any particular piece of equipment.

Thanks TP. Looks like she's going to have a new home. I will bore you guys with the rebuild. :bigsmyl2: Parts cure real well in a 145 degree garage. lol

[theperfessor]

I look forward to reading about it. Have greatly enjoyed reading about your other projects, such as your foundry thread. Keep on keepin' on Duke.

[Just Duke]

I look forward to reading about it. Have greatly enjoyed reading about your other projects, such as your foundry thread. Keep on keepin' on Duke.

Thanks for the inspirational TP.
Wifey and I looked at some at some old remastered pics of machinery.
She says black and chrome it is. :bigsmyl2: My drill presses need some TLC too. ;)

[theperfessor]

Black and chrome - a paint job like the one on my Grandma's old Singer, a classic piece of equipment. Sounds like it could be real purty. Wish you success!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Duke: the only caution I would make on the black paint job is it makes the machine difficult to keep clean cuz you can't see the dirt.

My vote would be for white. See pic

Also use DuPont Centari single stage paint. This paint is virtually impervious to oil staining and chipping. It is a polyurethane enamal. I have painted engines in my Jeeps as well as the bodies with this material and it has excellent wear resistance.

Another excellent paint is Cardinal 6400 series Poly paint. It is now my goto paint as it is still legal in My county in CA, Centari is not. I paint all of my Navy jobs with his stuff. You must blast with steel grit to remove it! It is by far the best paint I have ever used

On a machine tool you must also use a sealant before you paint as the casting has soaked up oil over the years and it will make the paint fisheye instantly. (ask me how I know) Can you imagine a whole Bridgeport mill that looked like a fish eye farm? I was sick!

The sealant is called DuPont Velvaseal. Very easy to use and oil will not bleed thru it.

To prep the castings blasting with steel grit is the best way. Most just can't do this. Easy Off Oven Cleaner will remove even the most stubborn oil and grease build up and it is what we use for cleaning engines prior to paint.

If you regrind the ways you must also realign the half nut with the lead screw as grinding the ways lowers the saddle, Same holds true with the cross slide. If you're gonna do this do it right and the machine will be worth much more when you decide to sell it. I have seen professionally restored South Bend lathes sell for $5000+ They will last for another 100 years easily.

The concept of an obsolete machine or gun or cartridge being useless becasue of it's age, is downright stupid. Just like the DC 3 airplane these tools still do what they were designed to do as well or better than other more recent tools. When you consider how much work these older machines have done in their lives, it begs to wonder what the term obsolete really means? They were hardly useless then and they still work so how can they be useless now? If a machine is restored correctly it is NEW, and in most cases it can be done nowadays to be better than new!

What is usually missing is the knowledge to use these older tools. People think CNC is the answer. Nobody CNC's one part, it just isn't cost effective. You still have to know what you're doing to program a CNC and if you don't knwo how to run a manual machie chances are you won't do very well in CNC either.

on anotehr note: I doubt you'll find anyone volunteering to be shot at by an obsolete .30-40 Krag or .303 Savage. I also doubt that anything shot by an obsolete gun will know the difference.:Fire:

How about an obsolete Rolex watch. I haven't seen any of those?

Here's a pic of my obsolete Cummins 4BT that is powering my Obsolete Jeep Scrambler. This is why I suggest White for your lathe. Note how you could easily see any oil leaks? :-D

Randy

[Red River Rick]

Nobody CNC's one part, it just isn't cost effective.

Randy

So, what you saying is that if someone needs one part, it has to made on conventional equipment otherwise it'll be to expensive?

Custom Shops make one piece or part all the time.

That's what I do for a living............Tool & Die.............lot's of "One Of" jobs. All CNC machined because some of the stuff just can't be made conventionally.........because it would take too long.

And besides, the "One Of Jobs", that's were the money is to be made.............BECAUSE IT"S CUSTOM.

RRR

[2Tite]

Duke, If you're going with a total rebulild then I suggest you "restore". That of course would be that beautiful South Bend gray. A South Bend that isn't gray.........Oh My.....

[andremajic]

Hey Duke, paint it whatever color you want! It's YOUR property and you can do what you want with it. I might just paint my old Logan white like those engine blocks. I like having clean tools.

I don't have a lot of pics of my old Logan 922, but here's what I got so far:


http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/44874f9818e442f9f.jpg


Andy.

[Just Duke]

Hey Duke, paint it whatever color you want! It's YOUR property and you can do what you want with it. I might just paint my old Logan white like those engine blocks. I like having clean tools.

I don't have a lot of pics of my old Logan 922, but here's what I got so far:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24940707@N07/5377455015/in/photostream/

Just browse the photos as I haven't figured out how to link them correctly yet.

Andy.

Lookin good. http://www.flickr.com/photos/24940707@N07/5377455015/sizes/l/in/photostream/

Get two 5 gallons cans of MEK and a old bath tub. Clean all parts once, drain back into the can, then cleab them again with the other 5 gal. can.

[Just Duke]

Maybe some of our experts can help out. http://www.flickr.com/photos/24940707@N07/5381158224/in/photostream

[andremajic]

Fixed the pic

[Just Duke]

Hey Duke, paint it whatever color you want! It's YOUR property and you can do what you want with it. I might just paint my old Logan white like those engine blocks. I like having clean tools.

I don't have a lot of pics of my old Logan 922, but here's what I got so far:


http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/44874f9818e442f9f.jpg


Andy.

Worthy of fresh paint. :D Thanks for sharing. 8-)

[W.R.Buchanan]

RRR: No that is not what I said.

One offs are most of my business too. But I do them for the Navy, and they are more expensive, mostly because of the insanity and incompetance I have to put up with to do business with them. You wouldn't believe how much money I have made correcting their errors. I am sitting here writing this instead of doing one of those jobs because I really dont' want ot do it. I still have to make a living.

Jobs like injection moulding dies are CNC'd nowadays, but they are very complex and still have all the time factored in to complete the job, and one offs are certainly more expensive than making a few of the same dies in the same setup. Did you ever make a die on a Bridgeport with a Volstro Head? That was the way they did it before CNC came along. If they needed more than one they set up a tracer mill.

I also bet you have manual machines in your shop and you don't put anything onto a CNC that can be easily done efficiently on the manual. Manual machines are worth $X per hour. CNC machines are worth alot more than $X per hour. That's why they get saved for the more complicated stuff. You wouldn't set up a cnc lathe to make one boolit sizing die, would you? Now 100ea. I could see.

Point of my post was the older machines are no more useless than older guns. Sure there is more efficient stuff out there, but it doesn't mean the old stuff won't work.

I worked for a guy once who kept saying, "can't you just muddle thru this job with what you've got." I said "I can, but you won't make any money."

He just went out of business for the third time this last month. He never could pick the right man or machine for the job.

Randy

[theperfessor]

The real secret is using the best machine for the job at hand. Sometimes that's a manual machine, sometimes it's a CNC.

[Just Duke]

Looks like I'm going to trade for one of the lathes seeing I can't find anyone to put barrels on for me.
Figures. I pretty much have to do everything myself anyway.

[leftiye]

So, what you saying is that if someone needs one part, it has to made on conventional equipment otherwise it'll be to expensive?

Custom Shops make one piece or part all the time.

That's what I do for a living............Tool & Die.............lot's of "One Of" jobs. All CNC machined because some of the stuff just can't be made conventionally.........because it would take too long.

And besides, the "One Of Jobs", that's were the money is to be made.............BECAUSE IT"S CUSTOM.

RRR

Plus, Oh Boy is it disappointing after 20 operations done perfect to turn the piece into scrap and have to start over. CNCs do the same each part. Once you've got the code right, it makes the part. Pretty much a done deal.

[EDG]

>>>You wouldn't set up a cnc lathe to make one boolit sizing die, would you?<<<
Sure with a modern CNC lathe (same goes for milling machines) set ups can be nothing more than calling up the program and hitting cycle start. The problem is a company like Lyman probably does not have the finances or expertise to run such a set up.
The tool magazines are large enough for hundreds of tools - some of which are redundant to allow pre-programmed replacement of dull tools. Milling machines have large tool magazines and storage/retrieval systems for pallets and tombstones. Some shops can run these setups lights out.

[257]

i have a southbend heavy 10 x 36 inch between centers it's served my needs well i got rid of my 3 diferent lathes and bought the heavy 10 becausei wanted to do my work all on one machine. i have tuned many barrell shapes over the years with no problems