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Frozone
03-10-2012, 09:15 PM
THIS BUY IS CLOSING

I am building PID Controllers.

They are 10 amp max units, enough to run any 'noncommercial' pot you can buy.
I have included a 3 light warning system to let you know at a glance what the melt is doing.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_102484f59c0f4de02d.jpg

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_102484f59c107b2820.jpg

Case design may vary slightly from the photos, depending on supplier.
Power cord will be 16/3 'SVT' type. (round)

Price will be $140 + shipping.

A thermocouple is NOT included at this price but I am looking into them and May be able to offer a good deal soon.
The plug for the end of the TC cable is included - you just need to wire up 2 wires and plug everything in to be good to go.

An "I want One" and your Email address (use the xxxxx (at) yyyyy (dot) zzz format please) posted here puts you on the list.

Please include your preferred Thermocouple type - 'Immersion' if you wish to purchase one from me.
<edit> I have not stocked the NON immersion type - not enough interest to justify the order of the parts. Sorry </edit>

The Immersion type is the one that is a long slender rod that you have to suspend over the pot and down into the lead.
The Through Pot type is a small sensor that you can mount in the pot bottom (silver solder is the best method, but I have compression fittings too)

I have the Immersion type on order. It is a high temp version with a max working temp above 1200º F
It will have a probe 6" long, ~ 3/16" diameter and comes with 6 feet of SS braided cord.
Between the probe and the cord is a threaded section to mount it.
I can supply them with spade connectors or with a 'K' type plug.
They are for sale separately, $10 for the spade connector (shown) and $13 for the 'K' plug. If you wish one of these with your purchase of a PID Unit, the K plug type is $10.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_102484f60e3ccd6ec6.jpg



Here is the list of people who want one
and in the order I will be shipping (pending funds):


{the first four are the 'prototype' models for that were offered for $120}
1: patsher <immersion > shipped

2: Ole <immersion> shipped

3: Redwoode <not specified>shipped

4: 2hawk <immersion>shipped
{ end prototypes }

5: Blue Hill <immersion> HDSSR shipped

6: Roger Ronas <immersion> packaged invoice sent

7: (name withheld by request) <immersion> shipped

8: MajorJim ORDER CANCELED!
Sent this character an invoice - He threatened me with the FBI!
NO SOUP FOR YOU!


9: Southern Son <immersion> (240V) shipped

10: lup <immersion> HDSSR packaged invoice sent

11: gmsharps <immersion> shipped

12: Bob J <immersion> HDSSR shipped

13: ipijohn <immersion> packaged invoice sent

14: willie_pete <immersion> packaged invoice sent

15: drmaynard3235 <immersion> shipped

16: sleeper1428 <immersion>

17: hanleyfan <immersion>

18: rayv <immersion> HDSSR

19: Dannix <immersion> HDSSR

20: GLL <immersion>

21: badgeredd <immersion>

22: Valley Forge <immersion>

23: Freischütz <immersion>

24: Doc Highwall <immersion> HDSSR

25: cba257 <immersion> HDSSR

26: jpatm2 <immersion> HDSSR Shipped

27: buckndee <immersion> HDSSR

28: Mohillbilly <immersion>

29. going to NZ

.

MajorJim
03-11-2012, 02:38 PM
I want one.

jmaniii56 at msn dot com.

Roger Ronas
03-11-2012, 05:10 PM
I;m 6th already on your list in other thread but putting my name here so I don't get lost.
Roger.Ronas0 (at) gmail (dot) com

Thanks
Roger

EDIT: I would lik to add a thermocoupler and compression fitting to my order.

Southern Son
03-12-2012, 09:39 AM
Will you be able to do these in 240 volt/10 amp? If so, I DENFINATELY WANT ONE!!!!!

ronandruby at bigpond dot com

or pm me here. Serously, I have been looking into one of these, but I have NO electrical tallent and I can't even find a place in Oz that will sell the bits.

lup
03-12-2012, 11:32 AM
I want one.

rstaab(at@)panix(.dot)com

PID Controller: $140
20A SSR: +$5
Immersion type thermocouple with 'K' plug: $10
Shipping: TBD

Springfield
03-12-2012, 11:51 AM
SS: E-bay sells the bits. Easier to buy a built one, though.

Frozone
03-12-2012, 01:49 PM
Will you be able to do these in 240 volt/10 amp? If so, I DENFINATELY WANT ONE!!!!!

ronandruby at bigpond dot com

or pm me here. Serously, I have been looking into one of these, but I have NO electrical tallent and I can't even find a place in Oz that will sell the bits.

I don't know exactly what your power specs are but as long as it's 2 wires hot and an earth ground (for safety), this unit will do 240V AC without internal mods.

You will need to change the cord end I'm Sure. The stock unit uses ANSII spec fuses, I may need to change the fuse block to something you can get locally. No charge for that.

What kind of plug do you have on your Pot?? You'll need a US standard 110V plug. Best bet would be to make an adapter.

gmsharps
03-13-2012, 09:12 AM
I would like one with a Thermocouple type - 'Immersion' if possible

gmsharps at cs dot com

Thanks,
gmsharps

Blue Hill
03-13-2012, 08:34 PM
Frozone,
I believe I'm down as number five for the first batch. Please include the K type, plug in, immersion style thermocouple option on mine. I trust you got the Email that I sent the other day.
Best regards,
Blue

gmsharps
03-14-2012, 02:14 AM
I believe I also need the K plug in that I for got to add from post 8

Thanks,

gmsharps

Bob J
03-14-2012, 08:04 AM
These look awesome! In for one, K plug immersion....

Gjohnson at foxboro dot com

ipijohn
03-14-2012, 11:14 AM
I'm in for one. Please include the K type, plug in, immersion style thermocouple option on mine.

jhmatthews at charter dot net

Southern Son
03-15-2012, 05:22 AM
Frozone, I see that you have me down for the Immersion type of thermocouple, I will also get what ever type of plug will let me just plug it in and use it. The less I have to do to get this working, the better. My history with electronics is only slightly better that your average caveman. If I can plug something in the wrong way, then I probably will. If I can't plug it in the wrong way, then there is only about a 50/50 chance that I will plug it in the wrong way.

Thanks again.

Frozone
03-15-2012, 12:17 PM
Frozone, I see that you have me down for the Immersion type of thermocouple, I will also get what ever type of plug will let me just plug it in and use it. The less I have to do to get this working, the better. My history with electronics is only slightly better that your average caveman. If I can plug something in the wrong way, then I probably will. If I can't plug it in the wrong way, then there is only about a 50/50 chance that I will plug it in the wrong way.

Thanks again.

Southern Son, The thermocouple plug (K type) is included in the purchase of the PID and will be installed on the thermocouple before shipment - no worries, You can only plug it in one way.

I have ordered a power cord for/from Australia . Your unit will ship with the correct cord installed.

Roger Ronas
03-15-2012, 03:03 PM
^ Now that's customer service right there. Good job Frozone

willie_pete
03-15-2012, 08:27 PM
I'm in for one with a K type, plug in, immersion style thermocouple option.

cesaryw at yahoo dot com

Thanks,

WP

Southern Son
03-16-2012, 02:21 AM
Frozone, thanks mate, your a dead set legend. PM me how much you want ant the paypal details as soon as you know and I will pay ASAP. I am really looking forward to getting my Lee bottom pour back into buisness with my NOE RG4 .44 mould and my CBE mould for my Martini Cadet.

Take care.

drmaynard3235
03-16-2012, 09:56 PM
Frozone
I'm in for one PID with K type plug and immersion thermocouple.
campp at juno dot com
Thanks
drmaynard3235
Pres

MajorJim
03-16-2012, 10:49 PM
Immersion with K plug on mine.

sleeper1428
03-17-2012, 02:06 AM
I'm in for one, including the immersion thermocouple with K type plug. I've been thinking about building one of these for quite some time but decided to opt for one pre-assembled and ready to use. Let me know the info necessary to pay via PayPal and I'll get it taken care of as soon as possible.

sleeper1428 (at) charter (dot) net

Thanks,

sleeper1428

Frozone
03-17-2012, 03:59 AM
Just thought I'd give everyone an update.

I'm still waiting on a few components. No real problem there - I have a lot of cutting to do, I ahve 10 cases done. Then I have to build the wiring harnesses.

The heatsinks are on a slow boat apparently. But I can't complain too much, at least this company would sell me Less than 1000 lbs of em!! Some had a minimum order of 1000 Kilos!

Thermocouples are 2 weeks or more out as well - dealing with China is a pain in the arse! They don't take credit cards or paypal and cash is out. You use 'bank transfers' and just sending payment takes 5 days. I did enjoy Emailing the salesrep however, all the Emails from him began: Dear Darling Mr. ...... something is getting lost(?) in the translation. :-)

mstarling
03-17-2012, 06:17 AM
Have you determined what the cost of the K immersion thermocouple would be?

Thank you!

Mike

Frozone
03-17-2012, 11:08 AM
The thermocouples will be $10 each. They come with 'spade' connectors.
I can supply a K type plug for them for an additional $3

bosterr
03-17-2012, 12:30 PM
What's the temp capacity of the thermocouples?

bosterr
03-17-2012, 12:32 PM
1200, Sorry, I asked before looking.

Frozone
03-17-2012, 04:56 PM
1200, Sorry, I asked before looking.

You select a base 'model' than add options, kinda like buying a car.
Of course the more option off the base model the more things cost ;-)
Base model here had a probe length of 2" (50mm) and no max operating temp speced.

It was easiest to send the sales rep my specs and let him fill in the slots for options. I couldn't read the Chinese chart!

I only speced a minimum of 1200 F as the max operating temp.

It's mineral insulated however so that would put the true max at ~ 2000 F.

mstarling
03-17-2012, 09:59 PM
Please excuse my uneducated questions. I am a control guy and do know exactly what PID control means. I do use PID controllers on my molten salt heat treating pots.

Am using an RCBS bottom pour pot. It obviously uses bang-bang control and does overshoot when metal is added after casting a while.

In practical terms, when such a pot is used with a PID controller:

1) Is the approach to set point faster and with minimum overshoot?

2) Is the temperature of the metal being used to cast stay at a more constant temperature even if there is air moving around the pot (I cast under a metal roof with two open walls.

Finally, to implement control do you pull the main input power to the pot into the output of the controller and turn the temperature controller on the pot much higher than needed so that the PID controller can feed power to the pot heaters as calculated with feedback from the K thermocouple?


THank you for your patience.

Mike

Frozone
03-17-2012, 10:44 PM
The Visible advantages of a PID controller on a device that already has an effective mechanical thermostat are minimal.
Because the thermostat is mechanical it will of necessity have more hysteresis built in.
The time to temp may actually be longer with the PID controller but overshoot is almost nonexistent.

(for those who may not know) In this case, Hysteresis is the amount of allowable error before an action is taken. The thermostat doesn't turn on until it's so many degrees under the set temp nor does it turn off immediately upon reaching the setpoint.

The PID device has a much smaller Hysteresis (often 0.3º) an it can be adjusted.
The PID can predict the rate of change also, something a mechanical won't do.

So if you need to adjust the heat requirements because the wind is blowing, the PID will do that. The thermostat can't.

To your last question : Yes.

Frozone
03-19-2012, 01:21 PM
Bumping this back to the top ;-)

rayv
03-19-2012, 09:41 PM
I'm new at this, but thinking this would be a great way to control heat level during smelting, to keep from melting the evil zinc. Using a single burner hot plate for smelting, would your PID controller allow me to do this?

2hawk
03-19-2012, 09:48 PM
Glad to see this up and running.

Frozone
03-19-2012, 09:59 PM
I'm new at this, but thinking this would be a great way to control heat level during smelting, to keep from melting the evil zinc. Using a single burner hot plate for smelting, would your PID controller allow me to do this?

Yes, the controller will work with any electric hot plate that draws less than 1100 Watts, even 220V ones But only with single phase power.

rayv
03-19-2012, 10:28 PM
Yes, the controller will work with any electric hot plate that draws less than 1100 Watts, even 220V ones But only with single phase power.

Thanks for the quick reply, Frozone. Hot plate says it's an 1100 watt version. All I could find was this, or 800 watt, so I went with the more powerful one. However, I don't want to spend 140 on the PID and risk zapping it. What would you recommend? Is 1100 safe, or running too close to the edge?

Frozone
03-19-2012, 10:46 PM
I'll have to put in a different SSR.
I speced 16 AWG power cord so the wiring is good to 13A (15A for a short while).
The SSR is 12 A max, which is enough, but I like margin.
If I put in a 20A SSR - it should be fine.

I have 5 of the larger SSRs coming, they should be here this week.
I will need an extra $5 for the change (they are twice as expensive) if that is OK?

rayv
03-19-2012, 11:10 PM
That's perfect. Thank you. I will happily pay the extra cost. My concern was running too close to the edge of the spec envelope; happy to have the extra margin. Are there any other parts at risk with the 1100 watt hot plate?

Frozone
03-19-2012, 11:18 PM
nope.

hanleyfan
03-19-2012, 11:55 PM
I'm in for one PID with K type plug and immersion thermocouple. let me know when you want the funds.

Blue Hill
03-20-2012, 12:18 AM
I'll have to put in a different SSR.
I speced 16 AWG power cord so the wiring is good to 13A (15A for a short while).
The SSR is 12 A max, which is enough, but I like margin.
If I put in a 20A SSR - it should be fine.

I have 5 of the larger SSRs coming, they should be here this week.
I will need an extra $5 for the change (they are twice as expensive) if that is OK?

Frozone,
Is it too late for you to bump mine up to the 20 amp SSR?
If not, please do so.

Thanks a ton!

Blue

rayv
03-20-2012, 12:48 AM
nope.

Excellent. Thank you again.
PM sent.

sleeper1428
03-20-2012, 04:32 AM
You select a base 'model' than add options, kinda like buying a car.
Of course the more option off the base model the more things cost ;-)
Base model here had a probe length of 2" (50mm) and no max operating temp speced.

It was easiest to send the sales rep my specs and let him fill in the slots for options. I couldn't read the Chinese chart!

I only speced a minimum of 1200 F as the max operating temp.

It's mineral insulated however so that would put the true max at ~ 2000 F.

Frozone:

Can I assume that since I've indicated that I want not only the PID controller but also the K plug immersion thermocouple that the thermocouple I get will be the one that is 6" long rather than the 2" model you mention in your description of the base model? As I read your announcement, if the thermocouple with K plug is ordered at the same time as the PID controller, the cost for the thermocouple and K plug will be $10 rather than $13. If I'm wrong on this, please let me know as I like to know what the 'bottom line' will be on such purchases.

sleeper1428

Frozone
03-20-2012, 04:43 AM
Frozone:

Can I assume that since I've indicated that I want not only the PID controller but also the K plug immersion thermocouple that the thermocouple I get will be the one that is 6" long rather than the 2" model you mention in your description of the base model? As I read your announcement, if the thermocouple with K plug is ordered at the same time as the PID controller, the cost for the thermocouple and K plug will be $10 rather than $13. If I'm wrong on this, please let me know as I like to know what the 'bottom line' will be on such purchases.

sleeper1428

Yes, the thermocouple I offer is ~6" x ~1/5" (spec is 150mmx5mm ). It has approximately 6 ft of braided stainless steel shielded cable on from the probe to the connection end.

The PLUG is included with the controller at no additional cost, as you must have one to connect a thermocouple to the unit.

I only have the immersion type thermocouple in stock, and I sell them for $10.

<edit> These TCs have minimum orders in the 100s of units. There is not enough interest in a through the pot design for me to order 250 of this type </edit>

I'm offering a 'deal' to the purchasers of the controller; If you purchase a TC from me with the controller, I'll install the plug on the thermocouple for you.
That makes the controller a "plug and play" when you receive it.

For those wishing to use a through the pot design, they will need to purchase an appropriate thermocouple and install it and the plug themselves.

So a controller with a thermocouple will be $150 plus shipping.
I hope that clears things up.

Roger Ronas
03-20-2012, 06:36 AM
Ok Frozone, Reading your last post looks like I have to change my TC type to the immersion. That will work. I will order a thru the pot type on my own. Can I get a second plug for a TC from you or is it easier for me to order that myself?
Thanks for all you do.

Roger

rayv
03-20-2012, 11:54 AM
I want one, please. With the upgraded SSR plus fee for same, and immersion TC.
Thanks!

Dannix
03-20-2012, 10:51 PM
Awesome group buy, Frozone. I thought about putting together a unit on my own, but I've got too much going on and my electrical know-how hasn't progressed since uni physics.

Please add me to the list:
PID Controller: $140
20A SSR: +$5
Immersion type thermocouple with 'K' plug: $10
Shipping: TBD

I'm going with the K plug because I'm presuming it must be better. :mrgreen: Actually, I don't know all the ins and outs, so please clarify, if you would, if anything else may be required or likely desired to be up and running. Based on post #41, is the K plug is not applicable for me as I'm going the immersion route?

Please let us know when you would like me to send payment. I can send payment right off (if it would get it to me sooner. ;) )
dpumpkin [@+] runbox (d0+) com

Do you have an ETA? I was hoping to start casting in a couple of weeks.

Frozone
03-21-2012, 01:13 PM
Well, the difference is there is a K type socket on the back of the unit to plug the TC into.
There is no way to hook up a 'non plug' TC without modifying the unit.
The plug has several advantages over a 'hard wired' TC. The use and replacement of multiple TCs for one. You just unplug the sensor and plug in a different to do a second job. As an example, to run your luberisizer heater. You put one of the small screw in TCs in the heater base and just plug it in. There would be no need for the 6" long probe in that usage, you could just leave it in the pot.

AS FAR AS ETA -------

It takes me about a day ( closer to two ) to make one of these.
I don't even have all the parts yet, they are on order.
I am still trying to speed things up by production lining things.
I cut all the boxes at onetime , build all the wiring harnesses. ect.
It still rather time consuming.

I think I'll close this buy after 1 more unit for a total of 20.
That puts it 2 months out for delivery - at best.

Dannix
03-21-2012, 04:47 PM
Makes sense. Thanks, Frozone. I will indeed go with the K plug as using the PID Controller when lubesizing with a heater makes a lot of sense.

No problem on the 2 months, at best, wait. I'm willing to wait.

Thank you, sir!

Bob J
03-22-2012, 08:29 AM
2 Months is fine with me as well..... Much appreciate you doing this....

GLL
03-22-2012, 10:20 AM
I will take one with immersion K plug !

Jerry

badgeredd
03-22-2012, 07:00 PM
I'll take one with the immersion K plug.

eddbadger at mwconnections dot com

Edd

rayv
03-23-2012, 12:44 AM
Well, the difference is there is a K type socket on the back of the unit to plug the TC into.
There is no way to hook up a 'non plug' TC without modifying the unit.
The plug has several advantages over a 'hard wired' TC. The use and replacement of multiple TCs for one. You just unplug the sensor and plug in a different to do a second job. As an example, to run your luberisizer heater. You put one of the small screw in TCs in the heater base and just plug it in. There would be no need for the 6" long probe in that usage, you could just leave it in the pot.



Even better! Great to have the flexibility to use it on other tasks; lubrisizer's a great example. Looking forward to it. Thanks for doing this. Dunno about the other folks in the thread who want one; I'm not dissing their mad electronic skills, but if I had to build my own ..... I'd never have one.

Frozone
03-23-2012, 12:19 PM
THIS BUY IS CLOSING. GET IN NOW!!!

I have decided to close this group buy at the end of this weekend.

Spring will be here in 2 months and with it tourist season.
I'll be busy driving until September. The amount of orders I have now is about all I can do until next fall.

Valley Forge
03-23-2012, 12:32 PM
I'll take one with the immersion plug. Thanks

Freischütz
03-23-2012, 05:27 PM
I'll take one with the immersion plug too.

Any limitations in cold weather? My garage isn't heated.

Doc Highwall
03-23-2012, 05:59 PM
I'll take one with the immersion plug. Thank You!
highwall--at--cox--dot--net

Frozone
03-23-2012, 06:55 PM
.......Any limitations in cold weather? My garage isn't heated.

Yes! The electronics (the PID controller itself) will not power up below 32 F.

I have the same problem.
Look at the bright side you are going to save on shipping - I'm in Anchorage as well.

The solution is simple - when the temp is below freezing, take the controller inside your house for an hour before you start it up . Once it's warm and running, it generates enough heat internaly to stay warm.

MajorJim
03-23-2012, 10:42 PM
20A SSR for me.

cba257
03-23-2012, 10:44 PM
Please add me to the list:
PID Controller: $140
20A SSR: +$5
Immersion type thermocouple with 'K' plug: $10
Shipping: TBD

This is great! Thanks.

codya <at> potlatch <dot> com

Cody

Doc Highwall
03-24-2012, 10:54 AM
Frozone, I have updated what I want.

Just buying the best and crying once. Cheaper to start out where I plan on ending up at.


PID Controller: $140
20A SSR: +$5
Immersion type thermocouple with 'K' plug: $10
Shipping: TBD

Thank You! again Doc Highwall.
highwall--at--cox--dot--net
[smilie=w:

Dannix
03-25-2012, 12:03 AM
Please add me to the list:
PID Controller: $140
20A SSR: +$5
Immersion type thermocouple with 'K' plug: $10
Shipping: TBD

dpumpkin [@+] runbox (d0+) com
As an example, to run your luberisizer heater. You put one of the small screw in TCs in the heater base and just plug it in. There would be no need for the 6" long probe in that usage, you could just leave it in the pot.
Would it be possible for you to add a small screw-in K-plug TC to my order? Or point me in the right direction to buy one on my own? Thanks!

Alaska summers sure are beautiful. Almost makes me jealous...and then I think of your winters.

jpatm2
03-25-2012, 01:53 AM
Because I have no electronic ability...
Please add me to the list:
PID Controller: $140
20A SSR: +$5
Immersion type thermocouple with 'K' plug: $10
Shipping: TBD

Gotta love cut and paste. :-P

jeremy (dot) martin (at) us (dot) army (dot) mil

buckndee
03-25-2012, 04:39 AM
Please add me to the list:
PID Controller: $140
20A SSR: +$5
Immersion type thermocouple with 'K' plug: $10
Shipping: TBD

Thank,
Buckndee

2hunters2 at com cast . net

Frozone
03-25-2012, 02:23 PM
Would it be possible for you to add a small screw-in K-plug TC to my order? Or point me in the right direction to buy one on my own? Thanks!

Alaska summers sure are beautiful. Almost makes me jealous...and then I think of your winters.


I'm starting to have trouble with those winters myself. About tired of 6 or 7 months of ice.

I just happen to have 3 of the small screw in K type TCs here.
They are a 'low temp' version, not suited for use with molten lead, but
they will work fine below 700º, as in a lube heater for example.

$7 with the K plug installed sound OK?



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Now to the rest of you -

I made the offer to ONE person to upgrade his SSR.
It was not an option in the group buy! :rolleyes:

You guys are taking advantage of my generosity. :killingpc

These is also a 'snag' remember those heatsinks on the 'slow boat from china'?

Well, after placing an order with the supplier, and waiting a month for them to arrive, I just got an email from them yesterday informing me that they haven't shipped them and don't have enough to fill my order.
The heat sink is integral to the SSR/enclosure. The entire project was designed around it. If I can't find an almost Exact replacement I cant fit the 20A SSR in the case. It looks like I'm going to have 5 ( they were the samples provided) to maybe 15 (if I'm lucky) available.

Without these heatsinks I can't build the heavy duty SSR model.
I'm scrambling to find replacements now.

Dannix
03-25-2012, 05:48 PM
I just happen to have 3 of the small screw in K type TCs here.
They are a 'low temp' version, not suited for use with molten lead, but
they will work fine below 700º, as in a lube heater for example.

$7 with the K plug installed sound OK?
Sounds perfect, thanks!

rayv
03-25-2012, 07:43 PM
Argh. Sorry. If I'd known it would turn into a headache, I wouldn't have asked.

Sorry you're having supplier troubles. Stinks when you're ready to go and they drop a bomb on you.

Frozone
03-25-2012, 07:48 PM
Yeah, I've been beating my head on the wall for a couple days now.
They offered me 11 pieces instead of the 50 I ordered. That would be enough to do this buy IF I can find replacements for the standard SSR sinks. But I haven't heard back on that yet.

They make a larger heatsink that looks just like the one I want. it's the same except for length. OF course it's 8mm to short to get 2 out of 1. But I could get one HD SSR sink and use the short piece as the regular one. It's the best option available.

Dannix
03-25-2012, 10:58 PM
Frozone, if you need to bump the price up a couple of bucks to cover the cost or time of cutting the heatsinks, I'm OK with, no sweat, that if that's a route you end up needing to take.

Bob J
03-26-2012, 08:35 AM
Would like to upgrade to the 20A SSR if possible.... Sorry for the late notice....

Frozone
03-26-2012, 02:59 PM
This Buy Is Closed

Blue Hill
03-26-2012, 09:45 PM
Frozone,
I'm ok with a price bump. I would not expect you to do this and go in the hole for either time or materials.
Blue

jpatm2
03-29-2012, 06:01 PM
Frozone,
Quick question... will this also be able to double as a thermometer for melting over propane? I know it would be kinda overkill, but just wondering if it would be able to be used that way too.
Thanks,
jpatm2

Frozone
03-29-2012, 08:00 PM
Frozone,
Quick question... will this also be able to double as a thermometer for melting over propane? I know it would be kinda overkill, but just wondering if it would be able to be used that way too.
Thanks,
jpatm2

Yes and No. It will work as a thermometer. But with the input 'uncoupled' from the output, the PID alogrith will get confused.
You will need to 'retrain' the unit when you go back to your regular pot.

I can't tell just how but most units can be put into a 'manual mode'.
That should solve the problem.

Redwoode
03-30-2012, 06:55 PM
Could I add one of the small screw in k type tcs with k plug to my early order please? Like to use controller on lube sizer too.

Please advise and I'll paypal right away.

Thank - you

Frozone
04-03-2012, 06:17 PM
Update!

I just recieved a large box from China, It contained HeatSinks!!!! 40 to be precise.

I also took possession today, from a DHL courier, of a large box of Thermocouples! Yeaaaahh.

Things are moving and the first 10 will ship soon.

Unfortunately I've all ready had a failure rate of 10% on the TCs so far.
Don't worry- I bought 100, so I still have plenty that do work.

Still waiting on a piece of tooling to speed up hole cutting on the cases ~ 3 days out.

Dannix
04-03-2012, 10:58 PM
:bigsmyl2:

GLL
04-03-2012, 11:34 PM
GREAT news ! :)

Jerry

Blue Hill
04-04-2012, 01:45 AM
YAY! :drinks: Here's to you Frozone!
Blue

DRNurse1
04-04-2012, 02:02 AM
I would like one. I prefer the immersion type thermo-coupler. Is the k-plug ready to attach to the Controller or do I have to wire it? Drats, I did not see the closed sign. Next time.

Frozone
04-04-2012, 02:49 AM
I would like one. I prefer the immersion type thermo-coupler. Is the k-plug ready to attach to the Controller or do I have to wire it? Drats, I did not see the closed sign. Next time.

Take a look in the 'Vendors" section.
I'll be building these for a while.

But I'm only taking orders with no firm delivery date now.

After these 27, I need the summer to recover.
(don't worry 'summer' here is Short)

To answer your question.
If you buy a thermocouple from me, I'll attach the plug before I send it.
Otherwise the plug is included with the unit, but you'll need to wire it yourself.

Bob J
04-04-2012, 08:04 AM
Awesome news! Let me know payment details and I'll get the money to you....:wink:

Ole
04-04-2012, 01:51 PM
Frozone:

I mailed your funds today.

Not sure why it says "banned" under your username, but I just wanted to relay that I got your funds in today's mail.

Hope all is well there.

jarex
04-04-2012, 01:58 PM
damnit i was to late, i wanted a 240v version :(

2hawk
04-07-2012, 11:40 AM
Frozone, let me know how I can get my payment to you.
g underscore blomquist at msn dot com

Blue Hill
04-07-2012, 05:43 PM
2hawk,

Send Frozone an Email. He will answer.

2hawk
04-08-2012, 11:17 AM
2hawk,

Send Frozone an Email. He will answer.

Did and done, thanks.

Dannix
04-08-2012, 09:37 PM
Frozone
Banned

:shock:

Hopefully it is only temporal.

Frozone, I'm #19 on the list and will send you an email with regards to getting payment to you.

Southern Son
04-09-2012, 09:48 PM
I am rather curious as to why Frozone has been banned? I looked back over his last posts and there was nothing that really looked ban worthy.

Roger Ronas
04-09-2012, 11:00 PM
I received an e mail from him. He is on a 10 day ban, he can explain when he returns if he wants to. He's working on the PIDs.
That's all I got,
Roger

Suo Gan
04-09-2012, 11:56 PM
If there happens to be another left I will go for it. Thanks

Dannix
04-09-2012, 11:58 PM
Basically some unpleasantries were exchanged. The unpleasantry Frozone received was in the form of a 10 day ban. So he'll be back soon, and, as he mentioned, it will likely be a boon to his productivity.

Apparently some guys play nice, while others make PIDs. :kidding:

Bob J
04-10-2012, 09:11 AM
I am rather curious as to why Frozone has been banned? I looked back over his last posts and there was nothing that really looked ban worthy.

Yep, I did the same thing..... Didn't see anything in the posts so either it was a PM discussion or the posts got deleted.... Anyway, glad it's only a temporary thing....

Ole
04-12-2012, 05:59 PM
I got one of the prototypes today and it looks like a very nice piece of equipment.

Here's how I plan to use the thermocouple.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/Ole1830/IMG_5608.jpg

I reckon I'll be doing some casting tomorrow. :mrgreen:

Roger Ronas
04-12-2012, 06:53 PM
Ole, looks like a decent way to mount it.

Rog

Doc Highwall
04-12-2012, 08:14 PM
If you mount it that way it will be in the way for stirring and fluxing your alloy.

Depending on the size of your ingots it could cause problems refilling your pot.

Ole
04-12-2012, 09:33 PM
If you mount it that way it will be in the way for stirring and fluxing your alloy.

Depending on the size of your ingots it could cause problems refilling your pot.


I'll probably stir and flux then insert the PID thermocouple to maintain.

I usually don't refill my pot while casting outside of throwing the sprues back in the pot. :Fire:

Blue Hill
04-12-2012, 11:16 PM
I was thinking I would try to use the bracket that came with my Lyman conventional casting thermometer to hold the thermocouple. It should work and the probe will be off to one side. Mine is ready to ship and PayPal has been sent, just now. Thanks for posting Ole. I'm glad you are happy with it.
Blue

Redwoode
04-16-2012, 05:51 PM
Received another one of the prototypes today. Workmanship and functionality are first rate. Really packaged well too.

Thank - you!

Frozone
04-17-2012, 01:21 PM
UPDATE

I had to order more expendables - heatshrink tubing ect.

patsher shipped

Ole shipped

Redwoode shipped

2hawk shipped


Blue Hill shipped

Roger Ronas ready invoice sent

(name withheld by request) (this ones next, I had one ready but didn't have an address to send to - Fixed)

MajorJim ORDER CANCELED!
Sent this character an invoice - He threatened me with the FBI!
NO SOUP FOR YOU!


Southern Son shipped (On a slow boat might be a few weeks for it to get there.)

lup (should be ready tomorrow)

gmsharps shipped

Roger Ronas
04-17-2012, 03:08 PM
Welcome back Frozone,
Nothing but good reports from the guys getting these from you. Can't wait to pay for and get mine.
Major Jim sounds like a MAJOR PIA,

Roger

Frozone
04-17-2012, 03:37 PM
Major Jim sounds like a MAJOR PIA,


A little overly paranoid maybe; but That seems to be a fairly wide spread condition on this group.


To be fair, it seems that what Paypal sends out as the "Invoice" is NOT what it shows me when I click on the "See customer's Invoice" from their site.

There is no information to speak of in the email sent, it just tells you to click a link to pay!
I didn't know that.
Paypal shows me a completely different page when I ask to see what is being sent!!!!!
When I tried to explain that, he said "Grow Up". THAT cost him his PID.


ON A DIFFERENT SUBJECT:

I'm considering making a mount for the Immersion TCs.

Anyone Interested????
and If you are what pot(s) do you need it for?
I am working with the LEE 4/20 to start with.

Roger Ronas
04-17-2012, 03:48 PM
I be interested in a mount for a 4/20 pot. Will it be off to the side (edge) or in the middle? Prefer edge of course. Something may be the thermo can be slid out of when needed. Like when done casting so that the probe isn't stored in the hardened lead, or can moved out of the way if fluxing and scrapping the pot.
Just thinking out loud.

Roger

Frozone
04-17-2012, 03:56 PM
I be interested in a mount for a 4/20 pot. Will it be off to the side (edge) or in the middle? Prefer edge of course. Something may be the thermo can be slid out of when needed. Like when done casting so that the probe isn't stored in the hardened lead, or can moved out of the way if fluxing and scrapping the pot.
Just thinking out loud.

Roger

On the LEE 4/20.
Mount would be to the 'nut' on top/front/left of the pot and would point/hold the TC at the spout rod - about 1/8" away from rod/pot bottom.

Not completely out of the way but easily removable.
It wouldn't get in the way as much as the spout rod does now.

Redwoode
04-17-2012, 05:36 PM
I have a Lee 4 20 and would certainly like a well made mount. Just give the word when they might be ready.

Thanks again,
Arnell

Roger Ronas
04-17-2012, 06:20 PM
On the LEE 4/20.
Mount would be to the 'nut' on top/front/left of the pot and would point/hold the TC at the spout rod - about 1/8" away from rod/pot bottom.

Not completely out of the way but easily removable.
It wouldn't get in the way as much as the spout rod does now.

Sounds perfect. Let me know cost and I'll add it to payment of PID (if pp let's me) or send another payment on that same date. May be it can go ion same box if your making them by then.
Thanks
Roger

Frozone
04-17-2012, 07:11 PM
I'm just throwing this out there for now.
I won't be working on it until All the current PID Controller Orders are shipped.
It just wouldn't be fair to those farther down the list.
plus I have a 'production line' set up in the shop - can't make room for much else.

I had to load a couple hundred rounds for the son in law this week end - it took a day just to clean up, put it back.

Roger Ronas
04-17-2012, 07:19 PM
That's only fair. Let me know when they become avail or you start taking orders.

Blue Hill
04-17-2012, 08:40 PM
Hey Frozone,
Glad to see you back. I'm looking forward to the arrival of my unit. I didn't have trouble with PayPal and I could see every detail of the invoice before I paid. I had to click on a seperate button to see the invoice details, otherwise there was just an amount and click to pay.
Best regards,
Blue

Southern Son
04-17-2012, 10:04 PM
Ten days already? Thanks for sending mine. How ever long it takes to get out of the US, it will take even longer in the postal system here in OZ.

Dannix
04-17-2012, 10:36 PM
I would be interested in a mount as well, for my Lee 4-20. Thanks!

gmsharps
04-18-2012, 07:59 AM
Received mine today according to my wife. I'll be able to see it in July and get to try it out in a couple of years.

gmsharps

Bob J
04-19-2012, 06:06 PM
I'd be interested in a mount for my Lee pot as well...... Looks like I'm the next up..... No rush if you need to hold my order until it is ready if you want to save postage etc.....;- )

Frozone
04-19-2012, 06:35 PM
I have a controller with a 'slight' cosmetic problem.
It was to be lup's but I haven't heard from him yet.

I missed with the drill bit. I drilled one of the LED holes a 1/64" or 2 off center.
As the result the RGB LEDs are not in a straight vertical line. The blue one is a little right of center.

This controller is a HDSSR model, and would normally be $145.
I will reduce the price to $140 if any want it.
It is also available to ship now.

jpatm2
04-19-2012, 08:06 PM
Frozone, I'll take the one with the cosmetic defect.

Frozone
04-19-2012, 08:08 PM
Frozone, I'll take the one with the cosmetic defect.

It's yours. I see you at #25 on the list.

I'll send a Paypal Invoice tonight.
You can pay that way or send me a USPS money order.
Just let me know if it's by money order.
It's ready to ship.

jpatm2
04-19-2012, 08:09 PM
Yes sir I am number 25.

Frozone
04-19-2012, 08:56 PM
Payment received- I'll ship as soon as ECheck clears.

jpatm2
04-19-2012, 09:19 PM
:guntootsmiley: Looking forward to it!

lup
04-23-2012, 07:57 AM
I have a controller with a 'slight' cosmetic problem.
It was to be lup's but I haven't heard from him yet.

I missed with the drill bit. I drilled one of the LED holes a 1/64" or 2 off center.
As the result the RGB LEDs are not in a straight vertical line. The blue one is a little right of center.

This controller is a HDSSR model, and would normally be $145.
I will reduce the price to $140 if any want it.
It is also available to ship now.

I must have missed your notification. I can wait until the next run since it looks like you have a buyer for this one.

Thanks,

Frozone
04-23-2012, 11:54 AM
Your new one is finished.
I sent you a message in the invoice cancellation.

I'll send a new invoice.
Just ignore the paypal fee part if you want to send a USPS money order.
Please let me know if it's the MO route however.

Blue Hill
04-27-2012, 09:32 PM
Hey Frozone;
Serial number 100005 HDSSR arrived today safe and sound and very well packaged. :drinks:
The weather here sucks so if I can't go shooting, it will be a great weekend to go out to the shop and make some musket balls, especially good since I have a brand new PID controller I'm itching to try out. :Fire:
My box didn't have any instructions though Frozone. I went on Auber's website. They've got a ton of PID controllers on there and you can download manuals, I just don't know which of them you used to make up our units. I seem to remember some rudimentary instructions as to the function of the LED's etc. in the forum discussions, but darned if I can find them now. If you can lead me to some instructions I'd sure appreciate it.
Thanks again Frozone. :drinks:
Blue

Frozone
04-27-2012, 10:30 PM
Sorry, I keep meaning to write an instruction manual.
I'm anything except a technical writer, however.

For the 'Auber Instruments" based Controllers:
Here are the Instructions (http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Manual%20version%203.4.pdf)
Just don't modify the Alarm function settings (AL-P), or you change the LED functions.
The LEDs are very straight forward (like Goldilocks and the three bears), If the Red is on the melt is too hot, if the blue is on melt is cold, if the Green is on you're just right.

BTW Red is 'Alarm 1' and Blue is 'Alarm 2'. The range of the green led is set at 14º (+7 to -7 of set point). And that is degrees in the units the device is set to.
(I tried to set the centigrade units to '3', but I may have missed one)

Here are the default settings:
any settings not listed are factory defaults;

ALM1 = 1100 (max operating Temp alarm)
HY1 = 7 (degrees above set temp to turn on RED LED)
ALM2 = 0 (min operating Temp alarm)
HY2 = 7 (degrees below set temp to turn on BLUE LED)

SN = 0 (K type TC)
dP = 0 (no decimal point)
AL-P = 21 (deviation alarms active)
COOL = 8 for Fº ( Cool = 0 for Cº)



For those with "MYPIN" based controllers:

Use the included manual to make changes if you wish. I marked them with my default settings.
I will try to get a PDF up on my FTP site soon.
This unit IS a little more complicated to program.
It has different controls too.

To change the set point:
Press 'AM' once - you'll see decimal point flashing in the bottom right of the lower number display. By pressing 'AM' again, you can move the 'cursor' between numbers.
Set the temp (leading zeros will appear in the display to tell you you are in 'set' mode)
When done setting temp, press 'Set'. The leading zeros will disappear, and you're good to go.

jpatm2
04-27-2012, 11:41 PM
Letting you know SN 100010 HDSSR arrived today! Thanks

Blue Hill
04-28-2012, 11:00 AM
Thanks for the instructions Frozone. I'd hate like heck to screw up my brand new gadget.
All the best.
Blue

Bob J
04-30-2012, 09:32 AM
Mine arrived Friday in great shape! Can't wait to give it a try....;- )

Thanks again for doing this for us!

ipijohn
04-30-2012, 08:41 PM
Mine arrived today in good condition. Fast delivery from Alaska to Michigan in 3 days, two of which were weekend days. Made a fast bracket, reset the set point to 700* and plugged in my Lee 4 / 20. Works like a charm.

Southern Son
05-01-2012, 04:18 AM
I got mine!!!!!! SN 100009 HDSSR is here and it is killing me knowing that I have to wait until my next day off to give it a go (I only have 4 days left before I have a day off, but they are going to be a looonnnnnngggggggg four days!). I have to say, I am impressed with the looks of it so far. If it works half as good as it looks, I will ge stoked.

drmaynard3235
05-01-2012, 08:44 AM
SN100015 has arrived!!! It was well packaged and the unit looks great.
Thanks Frozone
drmaynard3235

Dannix
05-01-2012, 04:55 PM
You guys are starting to get me both excited and impatient. :mrgreen:

willie_pete
05-04-2012, 10:48 PM
#17 arrived and is in good order. Again Thanks for doing these.

WP

sleeper1428
05-05-2012, 09:11 PM
SN100016 arrived intact yesterday. Now all I have to do is try to figure out how to use it and how, if necessary, to set the parameters, taking into consideration the fact that the instructions for the MYPIN PID TA4 Controller are quite obviously a translation from the Chinese language by someone who is only barely familiar with the English language, resulting in a set of instructions that one has a great deal of difficulty understanding. I've downloaded the full 8 page set of instructions for the Auber Instruments PID Controller but there's no such manual on the MYPIN website for their PID Controllers so I'll be looking forward to the manual you say you're putting together as a PDF file for the MYPIN PID TA4 Controller.

Am I correct in assuming that the values you've included (in addition to the printed values already present in the brief instructions) on the MYPIN instruction sheet are the ones you've already programmed into the unit? If so, it would appear that all I'll have to do is to plug my Lee 4-20 Pro pot into the controller, suitably attach the TC probe and plug it into the controller, set the Lee pot to maximum and then turn on the controller and adjust the set point as instructed, using the AT, arrow keys and finally the SET key to adjust the set point display.

Would you be so kind as to post your FTP site address when you have finished and posted the manual for the MYPIN PID TA4 Controller. I'm sure many of us would appreciate having such a manual available should we wish to change any parameters at a later date.

Thanks again and I'm really looking forward to putting my new controller into use.

sleeper1428

Frozone
05-06-2012, 03:11 AM
The controller comes as a 'plug and play' unit.

There is no set up required other than setting the desired temp and 'training' the unit.

Unlike the Auber units, the Mypin is a little more difficult to change the temp.
I'm not sure if this is good or bad, but it does prevent accidental changes.

To change the temp on the Mypin press 'AT' then press the up/down arrows.
On the first press the displays will change to leading zeros ( 15 becomes 0015, for example). Now you can press 'AT' to cursor between digits (same as the Auber), and use the up/down arrows to change that digit. When you have the temp you want set, press 'Set' to lock that setting in.

Once your controller/melter is set up.

The first thing you need to do is set the learn function.
You only do this once, unless you use your controller for more than one purpose.

Turn things on and set the desired temp.
Fill the melter about 2/3 full with alloy.
Once it's up to temp, press and hold 'AT' until a green led starts to flash in the lower right of the PID.

This is the learn mode, it takes about 15 min. for the controller to set itself and the led stop to flashing.

You can retrain the Mypin anytime you like just by press/holding 'AT'.


The Auber is harder to train.
You must first reset a value in memory.
Then the process is the same as the Mypin.

Oh and BTW, I'm sure any thing you translate to Chinese would not be exactly perfect. But at least the Chinese would not comment on Your ability to speak a different language.
You DO speak more than one language, right?
Well any way - "Nee How Ma"

Southern Son
05-06-2012, 06:54 AM
I must be doing something wrong. I plugged the PID in, then I used the arrows to get to 720 degrees, plugged the Lee pot into the back, turned the dial on the top of the Lee pot to full power and when the lead in the pot was melting, I put the thermo thingy into the lead. I watched the numbers on the top screen of the PID and they where pretty much in line with my old RCBS thermometer. They did vary a little (alot when I dumped in a bunch of sprues or a new ingot), but generally they were within about 7-10 degrees of the 720 that I set at the start. I didn't do any "Learn mode" and changing temperature was easy. Have I stuffed it, or did I just get lucky?

sleeper1428
05-06-2012, 12:17 PM
Frozone:

I do appreciate the additional instructions in regard to setting up the MYPIN PID TA4 Controller. But I must say you appear to be a bit 'touchy' in regard to anything that you interpret as being critical of your efforts. What I was referring to in my comments on the obviously poorly translated instruction sheet included with my unit is a very common problem encountered when one language is translated into another. Most commonly, the person doing the translation is translating his/her native language into a foreign language and therefore it is not uncommon for that person to fail to recognize grammatical errors in their translation. This was abundantly evident in the instruction sheet included with my controller and my comments were in no way meant to demean you or the person who did the translation but rather to point out that it was obvious that the translator was quite unfamiliar with English grammar.

In regard to whether or not the Chinese would make such a comment about a document poorly translated from English to Chinese, I question your assumption that they would make no comments similar to mine. Perhaps they wouldn't express them in a written form but I'm also quite sure that they would feel the same degree of frustration that I felt while trying to read and understand the included instructions.

And finally, yes, I do speak another language but I certainly wouldn't take on the job of translating a highly technical document from English into that language because of precisely the problem that I've pointed out in regard to the MYPIN instructions included with my controller. Specifically, while I am able to read and write that foreign language, I certainly do not hold myself out as knowing all the possible grammatical forms for that language and thus would not trust my translation, especially of a technical document, to be grammatically correct and easily understood.

May I suggest a change to decaffinated coffee ... You sound as if you're a 'bit uptight', as we used to say, and as I've already mentioned, ready to pounce on anything that you interpret as being critical of your work. This is far from the case and I'm sure everyone is as happy as I am with their new controllers. It was only the lack of a complete and well written manual that I was questioning.

sleeper1428 (Dr. Gaither B. Everett)


The controller comes as a 'plug and play' unit.

There is no set up required other than setting the desired temp and 'training' the unit.

Unlike the Auber units, the Mypin is a little more difficult to change the temp.
I'm not sure if this is good or bad, but it does prevent accidental changes.

To change the temp on the Mypin press 'AT' then press the up/down arrows.
On the first press the displays will change to leading zeros ( 15 becomes 0015, for example). Now you can press 'AT' to cursor between digits (same as the Auber), and use the up/down arrows to change that digit. When you have the temp you want set, press 'Set' to lock that setting in.

Once your controller/melter is set up.

The first thing you need to do is set the learn function.
You only do this once, unless you use your controller for more than one purpose.

Turn things on and set the desired temp.
Fill the melter about 2/3 full with alloy.
Once it's up to temp, press and hold 'AT' until a green led starts to flash in the lower right of the PID.

This is the learn mode, it takes about 15 min. for the controller to set itself and the led stop to flashing.

You can retrain the Mypin anytime you like just by press/holding 'AT'.


The Auber is harder to train.
You must first reset a value in memory.
Then the process is the same as the Mypin.

Oh and BTW, I'm sure any thing you translate to Chinese would not be exactly perfect. But at least the Chinese would not comment on Your ability to speak a different language.
You DO speak more than one language, right?
Well any way - "Nee How Ma"

Frozone
05-06-2012, 01:11 PM
I must be doing something wrong. I plugged the PID in, then I used the arrows to get to 720 degrees, plugged the Lee pot into the back, turned the dial on the top of the Lee pot to full power and when the lead in the pot was melting, I put the thermo thingy into the lead. I watched the numbers on the top screen of the PID and they where pretty much in line with my old RCBS thermometer. They did vary a little (alot when I dumped in a bunch of sprues or a new ingot), but generally they were within about 7-10 degrees of the 720 that I set at the start. I didn't do any "Learn mode" and changing temperature was easy. Have I stuffed it, or did I just get lucky?

No you didn't do anything wrong or right ;-)

I 'burn in' every unit for a couple hours to make sure they'll function.
This gives the controller a chance to set it's parameters.
In some cases (> half) I have even 'trained' them.
Since they are trained on a 20# LEE pot, they'll be about perfect on a LEE pot.

Well, actually for the initial setup, I would recommend melting the lead using just the pot first, then plugging everything back together.
The reason is that by using the controller to bring the melt up to temp without the TC in the loop causes the PID function to be adjusted in the controller.
The controller 'learns' by comparing changes in input readings against output.
So applying heat for that long without seeing any change in input has caused the controller to temporarily loose it's accuracy.

You can make them better by training it on Your set up.
It should maintain temp to a degree while just sitting there.
But don't worry, even without 'training' it will get better as you use it, for the same reason as it got out of sync.

I have found that if you use sawdust to flux and leave a good 'bed' of it floating on top. Then dumping the sprue back in as you cut it causes almost no variation in temp.
The sprue floats on top of the ash and slowly melts in - it's almost self fluxing that way.

<I had to look up the instructions>

On the Auber the unit automatically locks out the learn mode after it completes the learn cycle.
To train the unit again do this:

Press and hold 'Set' for more than 2 seconds to enter set mode.

Then press 'Set' until "At" is displayed.
Use the up/down arrows to set the value to 1 (it will be 3 if the unit is in lockout)
Press and hold 'A/M' and press 'Set' to exit mode (or just leave it alone for 10 sec or so)

Bring the unit up to temp.
Now press and hold 'A/T' to enter learn mode.
The red AM led in the display will light.

Frozone
05-06-2012, 02:45 PM
If any used an Auber Instrument PID a few years ago. Do you remember their data sheet?
It looked a lot like the a "translated from Chinese" thing and, with exception of a few application recommendations, was only about 4 pages long.

What needs to be remembered is that these PID units are NOT meant for the public.
They are intended as a component for companies to use to build final products with.
Most of the 'manual' is installation/performance/pinout data.

Auber has changed their data sheet a lot in the last few years - likely as a result of this group using them to build controllers and Not knowing the engineering behind them.
They have gotten much more 'end user' friendly - almost a user manual.

I cut out most (almost 3 pages) of the Mypin 'data sheet' - it is Not a "manual", it is a spec sheet for designers. What you receive are the only parts (2 pages) that the end user could possibly use.
If you look carefully you can even see the (literal) cut and paste I used to assemble the front page.

The only things the end user should need to change is the temperature.
They should be able to 'train' the unit as well.

On the Auber you must change settings just to Train the unit.
I feel this is a mistake and prefer the Mypin for that reason.
You can't harm the units (either type) even if you constantly retrain them.
But, you can make a mess of things with the wrong settings.

willie_pete
05-07-2012, 07:42 PM
Ran the controller on a Lee pot today making 148 gr. wadcutters. It works great. A little bit of overshoot, but nothing bad.

WP

Roger Ronas
05-12-2012, 02:31 PM
#6 received and accounted for.
Thanks Frozone.
Let us know when you get to the probe mounts.
Roger

Frozone
05-12-2012, 03:12 PM
Sure will Roger. I'm working on it right now.

willie_pete: Train the unit, it should hold to a degree if it's just sitting still.
<With the pot about 2/3 full and up to temp (a little under works well too).
Press and hold the A/T button (second from the left) until the small green led in the bottom right of the display comes on.
Walk away,come back in 15 minutes when it goes out. Unit trained.>

UPDATE: I'm waiting on parts.
I was partially back-ordered on a certain item. I only received about 2/3 the order, the balance should be here next week.

That doesn't matter any way. I ordered 10 HDSSRs ~7 weeks ago.
The distributor would not ship anywhere except the lower 48. I can't figure out why, but I couldn't argue them out of it either.

Well, I had him ship to a kid of mine in the lower 48. (A kid BTW that owes me a lot of money for "after 30" help).
6 weeks later I'm still waiting for the package from NC that came from China in 6 days!
She has shipped it, after 4 weeks of sitting on it, but not by priority mail. She used 'book rate'.
This is why I don't celebrate Christmas - my useless kids would try to borrow $100 so they could buy me a $10 gift :-}
ANYWAY, post office says it'll be here the 15th.
So those of you waiting on the HDSSR models - now you know why you don't have em yet.

Roger Ronas
05-12-2012, 03:26 PM
Sorry to hear of all the shipping problems. I can play middle man if you need on any future orders to help you out.

Rog

Valley Forge
05-17-2012, 01:45 AM
Received mine & looking forward to trying it out. Thanks Frozone!

GLL
05-17-2012, 02:27 PM
#20 arrived in good order ! It will go on one of my WAAGE 20 pound ladle pots this weekend.

Thank you again for providing these units.

Best Regards,

Jerry

Frozone
05-18-2012, 03:35 AM
OK! The last of the units are done and all but 2 shipped.

One goes out tomorrow (cba257) - I couldn't get it off the burn-in bench and to the post office in time today.
The other is awaiting payment (flintlockrecord).


--------------------------------------------------------------

These people need to contact me if they still want one.
I couldn't get an answer by email or PM.

buckndee <immersion> HDSSR

Mohillbilly <immersion>

Suo Gan

-----------------------------------------------------------

Other than that I'm done with these for the summer or so.

It's on to my DIY Kits and the thermocouple mounts.

Thanks Everyone.

Doc Highwall
05-21-2012, 04:15 PM
Frozone, I recieved my PID today. Thank You! :bigsmyl2:

cba257
05-21-2012, 06:27 PM
Frozone

I received the PID controller today. Now all I have to to is figure out how to use it. Thank you very much for making these, excellent craftsmanship.

Cody

Frozone
05-21-2012, 06:45 PM
....... Now all I have to to is figure out how to use it........

Thanks for the kind words.

Turn your pot up all the way.
Plug the pot cord into the back of unit.
Plug in TC in the back of unit.
Plug unit into wall.
Place TC in pot - only the probe ;-)
Turn on unit, and set temp (default is ~ 650)
When green LED comes on - Make boolits!

Dannix
05-22-2012, 04:48 PM
I just got mine in. Thanks! Now I just have to squirrel away some time to try it out.

rayv
05-24-2012, 11:15 AM
Got mine. Looks great. Can't wait to get back to the shop and try it out. Thank you, Frozone.

Blue Hill
05-29-2012, 08:49 AM
Hey Frozone,
I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong. On my unit, 100005 HDSR, the only LED that ever comes on is the green one. It's on as soon as I power the unit up and stays on until I shut it down. Blue and red never come on. The unit works perfectly, brings the lead up to the set point and maintains it very accurately. Just no idiot lights. Am I missing a step?
Blue

Frozone
05-29-2012, 01:20 PM
Sorry about this.

It is likely a parameter set wrong.
I have PMed instructions.

The parameter in doubt is the "AL-P" setting.
It should read 21.

Blue Hill
05-29-2012, 07:10 PM
Thanks Frozone
I'll try your instructions and let you know how I make out.
Blue

buckndee
06-02-2012, 02:10 AM
I received my controller the other day. Very nice product.

Thanks frozone for doing this GB for Cast Bullits members.

Buck

Dannix
06-30-2012, 06:37 AM
I'm re-reading the how-to posts in this thread as I'm going to do some casting this morning with the PID for the first time this summer, and when I came across this bit, I realized it seemed to imply instructions were included with the PID.

My first thought was "what is he talking about?" And then I actually looked and, sure enough, there was a double page of instructions included that I somehow completely overlooked. I guess I'm helping hold the male stereotype of ignoring directions. :bigsmyl2:

Frozone, once tourism season ends, I'll be interested in whatever TC mounting design you may come up with. Thanks!


I cut out most (almost 3 pages) of the Mypin 'data sheet' - it is Not a "manual", it is a spec sheet for designers. What you receive are the only parts (2 pages) that the end user could possibly use.
If you look carefully you can even see the (literal) cut and paste I used to assemble the front page.

The only things the end user should need to change is the temperature.
They should be able to 'train' the unit as well.

On the Auber you must change settings just to Train the unit.
I feel this is a mistake and prefer the Mypin for that reason.
You can't harm the units (either type) even if you constantly retrain them.
But, you can make a mess of things with the wrong settings.

Flintlockrecord
06-30-2012, 08:13 PM
Got mine this week. About to fire it up

Thanks for a great looking unit

Ian

Dannix
07-01-2012, 01:04 AM
Well I used the PID today, and I consider it the best money I've ever spent on casting. I used a clip from a Tel-Tru to hold the thermocouple.

Thanks again Frozone! :bigsmyl2:

Doc Highwall
07-01-2012, 08:18 AM
Dannix, and everyone else don't put your old thermometer away. Attach it to your hot plate for re heating your moulds and lead ingots for replenishing your lead pot as you cast.

dragonrider
07-01-2012, 12:15 PM
Got mine yesterday, it was actually delivered to the wrong address, it was addressed correctly, the neighbor then brought it to me, I don't know him but appreciated his efforts. I haven't played with it yet. It is certainly well made, going to be a big change for me at least as I have only used a thermometer to monitor temps for the last 25 years. Thanks Frozone

Dannix
07-03-2012, 11:42 PM
Dannix, and everyone else don't put your old thermometer away. Attach it to your hot plate for re heating your moulds and lead ingots for replenishing your lead pot as you cast.
I thought about PMing you, but I figured I'd just post so others could see your input.

I'm assuming you are just putting the thermometer in a cavity of the mould? What temp do you look for?

I'm personally just using an coil thermometer for irons (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXB352&P=7) on top of the sprue plate, but I haven't used it enough to know if it's a good process to go by.

Doc Highwall
07-04-2012, 12:04 AM
I found a piece of aluminum about 4"x6"x1/2" thick that had a hole in it that the thermometer fit into and take the temperature from that. Some people here have even made small metal boxes large enough to hold a mould with the handles sticking out of it, with the thermometer attached for setting the temperature.

jayhutch
02-28-2013, 10:18 AM
I want one - immersion thermocouple

jayhutch@roadrunner.com

- hutch

Frozone
02-28-2013, 02:30 PM
This Buy is long Closed!

If you wish to purchase a PID Controller go Here (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?116-Frozone) for ordering info.