"New" Boolit release spray

[largecaliberman]

After several attempts I gave up on purchasing the ready to go Bullet Release spray made by Frankford. The shipping to Hawaii is the problem because the can is preasurized. I tried powdered graphite mixed with alcohol and that seems to work fine except a trigger spray bottle would clog after a while. I then came across this liquid wrench dry lubricant and with NO oily residue--tried it and it sure beats the Kroil brand. No wrinkles and no stinky smoke after the solvent evaporates.

Coments?
:castmine:

[DrB]

I had mixed feelings about the frankford graphite, though it kills static dead on sticky plastic funnels, etc., in winter. :)

Can you share any pictures of your bullets?

[GT27]

Need to know how it holds up against heat,we know it's made for friction,but how well will it hold up to heat,that's the 50,000 dollar question,IMHO!Oops a boolit release for molds,sorry I now see!:roll: I would like to know how it works as a boolit lube,compared to alox,not as messy and a faster drying time???:?:

[williamwaco]

I had mixed feelings about the frankford graphite, though it kills static dead on sticky plastic funnels, etc., in winter. :)

Can you share any pictures of your bullets?

Thanks, Doc

I wondered if it had any useful purpose.

It sure will mess up a bullet mold.

[btroj]

If you need a mould release agent you are doing something wrong.

[462]

A properly prepared mould, and operating at its optimum casting temperature, needs neither smoking nor the application of any type of release agent for its boolits to drop due to the force of gravity, or no more than a gentle love tap on the handle hinge.

[Lizard333]

If you need a mould release agent you are doing something wrong.

I second that. None needed. If your having difficulty despite proper techniques, look at the kroil thread at the top. Works like a champ.

[MtGun44]

If you think you need a release agent, you need to study the mold for burrs most likely,
or possibly some other issue with your process. Almost certainy a burred mold.

Bill

[ShooterAZ]

I found out early on that the Frankford Arsenal mold release is only good for ingot molds at best. Their flux is not so good either (putting it lightly), it started to rust my melt pot right away. My best advise is if you don't have one...get a hot plate. Preheat your molds, clean the heck out of them first. A very small dab of comet and a toothbrush, preheat, and your boolits should fall right out.

[John Boy]

Need to know how it holds up against heat
<100 degrees Fahrenheit

http://urbanelevator.com/msds/radiator-specialty-company/MSDS-liquid-wrench.pdf

The lube contains Cerflon, a ceramic reinforced fluoropolymer (plastic)
http://www.cerflon.com/

[canyon-ghost]

If you need a release agent, turn the heat up on that mold. Fill it with hot lead and then give it 30 seconds to 60 seconds to soak up heat after the sprue glazes over in that dull silvery texture. Hesitate and let the mold soak up the heat.

I've been in that little row boat.

[ku4hx]

I had mixed feelings about the frankford graphite, though it kills static dead on sticky plastic funnels, etc., in winter. :)

Can you share any pictures of your bullets?

On killing plastic parts static cling. Wash your funnel in warm soapy water, rinse the crud away with clear water, swish them in warm, slightly soapy water, and let them dry UNRINSED. The slight soapy film will kill static electricity, is harmless to powder and lasts a long time.

Mold release agents are designed to solve the problem of money not falling easily out of your pocket and into the release agent manufacture's.

[stubshaft]

To kill static cling I use a used softener sheet from the dryer. A quick swipe and the static cling is gone.

[LUBEDUDE]

The only time I have ever used a release agent is when I purchased used molds over the internet which were abused.

I will NEVER purchase used molds again unless I can see them first hand up front.

[mdi]

A properly prepared mould, and operating at its optimum casting temperature, needs neither smoking nor the application of any type of release agent for its boolits to drop due to the force of gravity, or no more than a gentle love tap on the handle hinge.
I concur...

[swheeler]

After several attempts I gave up on purchasing the ready to go Bullet Release spray made by Frankford. The shipping to Hawaii is the problem because the can is preasurized. I tried powdered graphite mixed with alcohol and that seems to work fine except a trigger spray bottle would clog after a while. I then came across this liquid wrench dry lubricant and with NO oily residue--tried it and it sure beats the Kroil brand. No wrinkles and no stinky smoke after the solvent evaporates.

Coments?
:castmine:

You will find the best use for mold releases is to reduce the as cast diameter of your bullets. This may actually be useful if you wanted to cast smaller, nose, body or both.

[DLCTEX]

The mould release will fill in dings in a cavity. Apply a heavy coat and spin a boolit with mild abrasive to remove most of the release. Any depressions will retain the coating.

[doctorggg]

You gentlemen are a wealth of information. Being a newbie to casting I learn something new every time I read the posts. I have been using Frankford mold release and flux. I am looking forward to my next casting season. I have several molds to clean. Thanks

[DrB]

Thanks, Doc

I wondered if it had any useful purpose.

It sure will mess up a bullet mold.

:)

Now, I didn't think it was that bad, I just didn't find it particularly useful as mold release.

I didnt find any damage or other issues after cleaning it off, but I didn't find it to be particularly helpful.

Graphite is electrically conductive though, and harmless to powder (commonly used as a grain opacifier and to improve flow of solid propellants)... works like a champ as a semi-permanent anti static conductive coating since its basically a graphite paint. :)

[olafhardt]

I have only limited experence casting; however, I smoked molds and about wore out my little club beating on molds to get the boolits out. Then one day I picked up my can of Gunk spray silicone, sprayed a mold and immediately began casting perfect boolits that fell out of the mold. I guess if you don't need release you are better than me and your pecker is longer.

[Hardcast416taylor]

On killing plastic parts static cling. Wash your funnel in warm soapy water, rinse the crud away with clear water, swish them in warm, slightly soapy water, and let them dry UNRINSED. The slight soapy film will kill static electricity, is harmless to powder and lasts a long time.

Mold release agents are designed to solve the problem of money not falling easily out of your pocket and into the release agent manufacture's.


Use Dawn dish soap.Robert

[dromia]

If you think you need a release agent, you need to study the mold for burrs most likely,
or possibly some other issue with your process. Almost certainy a burred mold.

Bill

Concur, mould release treats the symptom not the problem.

[HangFireW8]

I have only limited experence casting; however, I smoked molds and about wore out my little club beating on molds to get the boolits out. Then one day I picked up my can of Gunk spray silicone, sprayed a mold and immediately began casting perfect boolits that fell out of the mold. I guess if you don't need release you are better than me and your pecker is longer.

I started casting Dec of 2008 and bought some Midway mold release as a backup plan. I very quickly ended up using that backup plan. What I found is that the first few boolits would drop out and then sticking would resume. My production rate, between sticking boolits and re-applying mold release, could be measured on my fingers.

I thought maybe release-free casting was the province of custom molds only, but some folks here were using the same brands (and exact molds) that I was.

While I thought I was doing proper mold prep, a good clean and scrub and checking the edges for burrs with my fingernails, I decided to get really serious. I really scrubbed all the mold release out. I got out my big magnifying glass and a sharp probe and gently traced every millimeter of the cavity edges. I found lots of slight overhangs.

I tried my newly Lee-mented molds, and while not every cavity dropped, several cavities started dropping easily every single time. Wow! So, I went back and did the sticky cavities again. Some molds went back for treatment multiple times, but the payoff was clear when I got it right.

One problem I had with a new Lyman mold seemed to be poor venting. The vent lines, as it turned out, where clogged with mold release. I cleaned it out with a scribe and then boolits really starting sticking. I had scraped from the outside towards the cavities and created very tiny burrs where the vent lines met the cavities. I had to lap with a boolit cast around a nail and some Clover to get rid of it. Properly cleaned and vented, suddenly one of my worst molds became one of my best, dropping boolits on opening without further persuasion.

After spending a year knocking and spraying, and another year of cleaning, deburring and lapping, I now own a shelf full of molds that drop their boolits easily- well, the majority of the time. When I get a new mold, it gets the full clean, exam and deburr treatment before it gets near the pot. Well, deburring was not necessary with my Mihec mold, but I cleaned and checked it like the rest.

The people here telling you that mold release is not necessary are not bragging. They are trying to show you a better way.

HF

[rintinglen]

The beauty here is that you can learn in a day stuff that would take you years to learn on your own. I cast my first bullet in 1967 at the tender age of 13, I have cast tons of boolits since then, and I still learn things. There is a lot of experience kicking around here, and a pretty good bit of smarts as well.
Though one thing I truly believe is that there are few absolutes. Some mold, at some temperature, with some alloy might work better with a mold release. Some Lee molds do not require Lee-menting to get good boolits. But most of us will not need the former, and do better with the latter if we do spend a bit of time cleaning it up.

[buck1]

I use the release on the under side of the sprue plate. No more smeers

[GT27]

<100 degrees Fahrenheit

http://urbanelevator.com/msds/radiator-specialty-company/MSDS-liquid-wrench.pdf

The lube contains Cerflon, a ceramic reinforced fluoropolymer (plastic)
http://www.cerflon.com/

So much for that thought then,thanks!!!

[Longwood]

After several attempts I gave up on purchasing the ready to go Bullet Release spray made by Frankford. The shipping to Hawaii is the problem because the can is preasurized. I tried powdered graphite mixed with alcohol and that seems to work fine except a trigger spray bottle would clog after a while. I then came across this liquid wrench dry lubricant and with NO oily residue--tried it and it sure beats the Kroil brand. No wrinkles and no stinky smoke after the solvent evaporates.

Coments?
:castmine:

Thanks for the tip.
I well certainly pick up a can to give it a try.
Now and then a new product proves itself to be the "Cat's Meow".

Some use junk like Marvel's Mystery oil because their Daddy told them it was good for something and some of us have to prove it for ourselves.

[dragonrider]

Anything in your mold cavities except lead is a mistake that will come back and bite you on the butt. A short time after using a spray like frankfurter arsenal and you will notice poor fillout beginning to happen, that is because it is filling in the vent lines. Soot will do the same. And both of them will reduce the size of your boolits. It was mentioned that using f/arsenal spray to fill ding holes in a mold and then lapping the cavity with a boolit coated with valve grinding compound, OK, then what, you need to clean the mold of valve compound at the same time you clean the spray out of the dings and dangs and end up right back where you were. Prepare your mold properly, and no mold comes to you properly prepared, and no mold release agent of any kind is needed. This seems to be the hardest thing for a newbie, even some oldies, to comprehend.

[Ecramer]

I found out early on that the Frankford Arsenal mold release is only good for ingot molds at best. Their flux is not so good either (putting it lightly), it started to rust my melt pot right away. My best advise is if you don't have one...get a hot plate. Preheat your molds, clean the heck out of them first. A very small dab of comet and a toothbrush, preheat, and your boolits should fall right out.

This hasn't been my experience with the Frankford Arsenal mold release. Perhaps it isn't truly necessary, but I find it highly beneficials, especially on aluminum mold blocks. Your mileage may, of course, vary.

[ku4hx]

Use Dawn dish soap.Robert

Exactly! I like the blue variety. :-D