Want to try casting my own Boolits - What 38/357 mold do you recomend?

[dms1]

Hello, I decided I wanted to try casting my own boolits and wanted to know which 38/357 mold you guys recommend for a boolit to be shot out of a Colt Python with a 6 in barrel and a Marlin 1894c with an 18.5 inch barrel?

Thanks

Dave S

[462]

Howdy, Dave.

An inexpensive mould that produces an excellent boolit is Lee's 358-158-RF. Start with the two-cavity mould, as it is much easier to learn to cast with. As you gain casting experience, and if the boolit performs to your expectations, you can move up to the six-cavity mould.

If you decide to buy any Lee mould, read the various Leementing stickies and follow their advise.

[jblee10]

Decide how you are going to lube first. I prefer using a Luber/Sizer myself, but many like tumble lubing. Have a look at Lee 358 SWC molds. They have a gas check and tumble lube design. I like their six cavity molds, but two cavity will work also.
I say jump right in with both feet. Casting adds a whole new dimension to reloading. When I started casting years ago, there was no looking back.

[MT Gianni]

Lyman 358477 or it's twin brother RCBS 150KT. They will do almost anything needed in 357 & 38.

[beagle]

The 358477 works well in both my M1894 Marlin as well as my 4" "snake". It would make a great choice./beagle

[Grandpas50AE]

I don't have a rifle, but for pistol I have found the Lyman 358429 bullet to be a really good performer. I have a friend with a Python I make them for, loaded over H110, and he has taken deer with it and loves that boolit. Lyman molds have always worked for me, but mine are older molds and I have seen several posts of current production being hit or miss, so I don't know how good their QC is these days...you might get a perfectly fine one. But I really like that boolit, it drops at 173 gr. with 95% WW and 5% pure lead added back in.

[Cherokee]

Welcome to the forum !! I have used the Lyman 358477 for many years with great performance. I also used the RCBS version for a while but went back to the 358477, didn't see any difference. Lately I have tried the Lee 358-158 RFN and it also performs great. I have not hunted with either so performance for me is accuracy. I find the Lee easier to use because of its light weight. I prefer the conventional lube groove version using a lube/sizer. Jump right in, if you enjoy your reloading and shooting hobby, you should like casting. It's not hard to get good bullets, but it does require good safety measures and some practice. Read the stickies.

PS - anyone shooting the Lee bullet in Marlin LA should comment, I don't have one so have no experience. My opinion would be that it should feed great and be as accurate as it is in pistols.

[Larry Gibson]

Lyman 358477 or it's twin brother RCBS 150KT. They will do almost anything needed in 357 & 38.

+ another, both excellent moulds for your .357s. Suggest a GC'd mould, the Lyman 358156, for top end magnum level loads in both the Python and the Marlin. The 2 moulds will give you options from mild 38 SPL target load s to tope end magnum loads with softer expanding alloys, particularly out of the Marlin.

Larry Gibson

[runfiverun]

some leverguns don't like swc type boolits but i have never seen unacceptable accuracy from a revolver with rnfp boolits.
they also make good hunting boolits.
in fact if i had to liquidate all my molds except the bare minimum i would keep only the rnfp molds.

[TNFrank]

I'm a cheap skate so I went with a Lee Tumble Lube 158gr SWC. Seems to be working out ok so far. I've bought quite a few Lee molds over the years and they seem to work out ok if you take care of them.

[williamwaco]

Every one of these are good advice but for a beginner I recommend starting out with something inexpensive so if you don't like it or if you break it, you are not out a lot of money.

Start with the Lee


http://www.midwayusa.com/product/164178/lee-2-cavity-bullet-mold-tl358-158-swc-38-special-357-magnum-38-colt-new-police-358-diameter-158-grain-tumble-lube-semi-wadcutter

or the Lee

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/188719/lee-2-cavity-bullet-mold-358-158-rf-38-special-357-magnum-38-colt-new-police-358-diameter-158-grain-flat-nose

Both are equally "good"

I personally use the SWC and find it to be one of the best bullets I have ever used.


.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

http://www.ranchdogoutdoors.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_56&products_id=124
this boolit may be a bit stout for the revolver, but with the correct load, it'd be no problem at all.
BUT...it is the cats meow for a levergun.
Leverguns are ranchdog's speciallty.
this mold would definately be my first choice for a levergun, it's not as cheap as a non-custom mold, but with Ranchdog...you a guarenteed a very good and correct mold.
You should also find out the size of you bore in that rifle, to know what size sizer to get.
Jon

[Reload3006]

358429 hands down. the most forgiving design and shoots great too. IMO and if you find that casting isnt for you you can sell it for what or more than you pay for it if your careful.

[mdi]

I too would suggest Lee T/L bullet molds for the beginner. The Lee 358-158 RF may cause problems lubing because of the bevel base. If pan lubing, a ring of lube will be left on the bevel and base and if they are run through a lubersizer, lube will squirt under/around the bevel and on the base. Not a big deal, but just one more thing a beginner doesn't need to deal with. I think my all time favorite .38 cal. bullet is Ideal's 357446 with Speed Green Lube. I have a fav Lee T/L for my .44s that I dip lube (thin alox with mineral spirits about 25%, hold bullets by the nose w/small pliers, dip into alox and set on a sheet of wax paper to dry). Not as fast as lubing enmasse in a tub but I have the time and it's really neat. Recluse's 45-45-10 is a great tumble lube that's easy to make, easy to apply, and works in every application I've tried it in...

[TNFrank]

I've been using a plastic sandwich bag to lube up my T/L bullets. Seems to waste less lube then using a plastic tub and I can throw the bag away when I'm done and just get a fresh one for the next use.

[GLL]

Take a look a the 359640. It is a 45 2.1 design that has been produced by BRP, NOE, and MP in both PB and GC form. Great bullet !
The 358429 clones produced by these same three mold makers are all outstanding as well ! (BRP is no longer in production though).

Jerry

359640
http://www.fototime.com/1B13AAC75BFC73C/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/7841363A64E2C41/standard.jpg

[dms1]

Thanks for all the replies, I will sit down tonight and digest all of the information and let you know what I ordered. As far as lubing\resizing, I was going to start out with the inexpensive lee sizers, but that will probably be my next question on the board ;- )


THanks

Dave S

[youngda9]

I would get the Lee 358-158-RF 6 cavity. It's a great general purpose design that should be inherently more accurate than a semi-wadcutter design. You'll want the 6 cavity right away after casting with a 2 cavity. Casting with a 6 is simple. I don't think there is anything to be gained starting with a 2 cavity really. Get fancy and spend the bigger $$ down the road for a more expensive mold. Learn and crank out bullets with the Lee.

[MtGun44]

Lyman 358477 is a great overall design. The Lee 358-158-RF is also excellent, but has
a minor PITA due to the beveled base, depending on how you will lube it. Keith 358429
is a great design, heavier than most, and may not fit well in some short cylinder .357s
like S&W M27/28 N-frames. Fine in most K and L frame Smiths, but I have no idea if
the Python cyl length will accomodate it.

Feeding in the levergun may well be the controlling factor on mold selection.

Bill

[wv109323]

I think the Cowboy Action Shooters like the Round Flat Nose bullets for Reliability.

[dms1]

So, I went over all the posts and it looks like the Lee 358-158-RF and the Lyman 358477 molds were recommended the most. I am leaning toward the Lee mold due to the fact that I want to avoid any feeding issues that might\could happen in the Marlin due to the Lyman 358477 mold being a semi wad cutter, but I am also not 100 percent sold on the Lee 358-158-RF mold due to references of issues with the "bevel".

Can anyone tell me more about this bevel issue and what is needed to over come it? I did like the Ranchdog mold but I want to avoid gas checks for now.

Also I will be using the Lee .358 sizer kit.

Thanks in advance

Dave S

[cummins05]

i have the 358-158-rf and have no issues shooting it through my ruger gp100 in both 38 and 357 i have had great accuracy and good results i would even send you a few if u wanna try it before u buy it let me know i would be happy to help out as some others did for me here

[MaineJim]

Another satisfied user of Lyman 358477 and also 358429 if its not too long for your guns cylinder.

[dms1]

This is what I am going to order, let me know if I am missing anything:

Lee Pro 4 20lb Furnace
Lee Lead Dipper
Lee Bullit lube and sizer - 358
Lee Bullit mold handles
Lee six cavity mold - 358-158-RF

I decided to also get the Lyman 358477 mold and handles but it is on back order so I will pick that up in a couple of weeks.

Thanks

Dave S

[.357MAN]

A little late, but you missed a lead thermometer. I use the RCBS
( http://www.midwayusa.com/product/357906/rcbs-lead-bullet-casting-thermometer ) and there are others that are cheaper. I recommend using a lead thermometer. It helps you keep the lead at a consistent temperature.

[mdi]

A bevel base bullet sitting in a pan of lube will have a ring of lube where the bevel is when the bullet is either punched out or cut out of the mold cake. A bevel based bullet being pushed through a lubersizer die and pressureized lube forced into the lube grooves will also have lube forced into the bevel. Additional lube on the base of the bullet can be messy, and removing it's a pain. Extra lube on the base is believed to be able to contaminate the powder charge and result in faulty ignition/powder burn and cause misfires and squibs...

I too suggest you start with a two cavity mold to shorten the learning curve without additional problems of a multi-cavity mold (hot spots, maintaining even mold temp, sprue cutting, etc., especially using a ladle).