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rak1
01-29-2012, 05:14 PM
Every time I log on and read the new post I learn more things. So I am asking the question on annealing. How does everybody anneal the necks of their brass and I just read about annealing gas checks. How do you anneal aluminum gas checks? This forum has greatly accelerated the learning curve for this old man.
Thanks
Dick

GRUMPA
01-29-2012, 05:46 PM
For me annealing is real simple, I always use the lower part of my LEE trimmer, insert the end of the trimmer in a drill. Insert the brass and I use a propane torch and with the brass spinning I heat it up till the brass changes. Its color to a dull red, untwist the locking ring holding the brass and tump it into water. This is not for production but rather for small lots, if it were for a business it's much more elaborate and so is the price.

As far as the aluminum gas checks I would have no clue, I've done heat treating with the copper ones and there's nothing I've noticed when I got done.

Wayne Smith
01-29-2012, 06:09 PM
I use my lead pot. When it is up to temp I take a cartridge that needs annealing and immerse it up to the shoulder in the lead and do a slow count. When I can't hold it any more I drop it and pick up a set of channel locks. I hold each case to that count and drop them. If you want to use them right away drop them in water but it doesn't matter. You aren't getting them hot enough to soften the base if they cool slowly.

runfiverun
01-29-2012, 09:27 PM
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/20450
i use this on brass.
and a pipe bomb looking thing in my wood stove to do copper gas checks in.

zomby woof
01-29-2012, 09:34 PM
This is the easiest way for me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c&feature=related

GabbyM
01-30-2012, 12:43 AM
I anneal brass case necks on bottle necks by holding them bare handed while running the necks over the flame. Twirling the cases between my fingers until seeing the proper color. Do this in a dark room so you can see. Doing this bare handed assures you will not over heat the case. I set up a can of water under the flame so I can simply drop the case if it heats my fingers. I’ve never got a blister and never ruined a case as far as I know.

MikeS
01-30-2012, 01:15 AM
I hear lots of people anneal their bottleneck rifle brass, but does anyone anneal pistol brass? I have some 45 Auto Rim brass, brand new Starline, I loaded it, then pulled the boolits, then a while later reloaded them, and while doing the second reloading the neck split on one of the cases. I've heard that a small split on the neck area of pistol brass can still be shot, is that true? The split is maybe 3/16" long, and the boolit is still held tightly by the brass after it's loaded (I noticed the split while seating the boolit, and crimping it in place). Do I need to pull that round, or can I shoot it, then disgard the case?

GabbyM
01-30-2012, 03:00 AM
I hear lots of people anneal their bottleneck rifle brass, but does anyone anneal pistol brass? I have some 45 Auto Rim brass, brand new Starline, I loaded it, then pulled the boolits, then a while later reloaded them, and while doing the second reloading the neck split on one of the cases. I've heard that a small split on the neck area of pistol brass can still be shot, is that true? The split is maybe 3/16" long, and the boolit is still held tightly by the brass after it's loaded (I noticed the split while seating the boolit, and crimping it in place). Do I need to pull that round, or can I shoot it, then disgard the case?

I've never used a heavy roll crimp on revolver brass.
Not that I don't keep reading how that's the way to do it. I find it a better practice to use proper sized expander to bullet diameter fit. Also as a machinist I have the tools to measure things.

If you follow the advise of people whom make money selling sub standard reloading dies and over expand your case then use a heavy roll crimp. Both practices are to overwhelm out of tolerance tooling. Then you’ll have all sorts of problems. Annealing your brass will not fix the problem anymore than overworking the brass in the first place which caused your split necks.

ku4hx
01-30-2012, 10:45 AM
I use the method described in my Lyman manual. Set the case base down into a tray with about 3/4" to 1" water in it. Heat a case neck to the desired color then tip that case over and move to the next. Let 'em dry overnight or in a slightly warm oven.

Drill method works fine too. I just got tired of chucking and unchucking.

I've never annealed pistol brass because I never felt the need to. The only pistol cases I've had split occurred with those used for max/near max .357 and .44 Magnum loads. For me the splits are my indicator I've loaded that case enough so it goes into the bucket for worn out brass.

In my younger, cheaper and more invulnerable days, I did on occasion fire heavy .357 and .44 Magnum loads with small case neck splits. Never had a problem, but now days being fully human and no longer immortal when I find I've let a bad case slip by I dismantle the round. It's just no longer worth it to me to take the chance.

prs
01-30-2012, 01:55 PM
I was annealing pistol brass and the good folks here indicatd such was folly, so I have quit. Split cases need to be scrapped, mashed with pliers to make sure they don't get back in your stock. If loaded, you will get bloopers that may stick a boolit in your barrel.

prs

rak1
01-30-2012, 11:10 PM
I annealed some bottle neck brass today. Turned out real good. I used the method that GabbyM used. Did not burn my fingers but came close as my reflexs are a little slow. Thanks everybody for your information. This forum is great.
Dick

jblee10
01-30-2012, 11:24 PM
I have used both the hold in the fingers and turn technique and the Lyman method. But I've never taken it anywhere close to dull red. I think you should try one particular method, and then reduce your heat by 50%. It doesn't take very much.

wallenba
01-30-2012, 11:35 PM
I use the drill method too, with an appropriate size bolt socket. They rattle a bit, but you can just dump them in the water without touching them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEXZlgw2Od8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbRdJqyFDGY

1Shirt
01-31-2012, 08:48 PM
For rifle cases I have a propane torch (burnzomatic) on a stand in a dim to dark room. I turn the cases that I hold in my fingers in the flame (neck and a bit of the shoulder) until I see a color change. Then I drop the case into a pan of water that is under the torch. I always do it with deprimed cases, but that is because it is a habit. Have been doing it this way for a number of years. Used to stand the deprimed cases in water up to close to the neck hit them with the torch, then tip them into the water after a color change. Holding by hand is faster, but both work equally well. Usually anneal after 4-6 loadings depending on the ctg. Have never bothered to anneal handgun ctgs.
1Shirt!:coffee:

MtGun44
01-31-2012, 09:26 PM
It is very easy to over anneal the necks of cases. Also, rapid cooling gains nothing over
air cooling. Anyone that is seeing any sort of glow from the brass is overannealing the
necks by a bunch. the proper way is to get tempalaq for the correct temp and develop
your method with the tempalaq (temperature measuring laquer) and then use consistency
and a sweep second hand clock or an automated system moving the cases through
the flame to repeat the process that gave you the correct temperature.

Bill