Boolit Casting video I just made :-)

[jabilli]

What do ya'll think? :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRPYp1kb2-Y&list=FLxwtur2W82khvm3hCYWdydQ&index=1&feature=plpp_video

[leadman]

Well, you should stick around here awhile and do some reading. If you want specifics send me a PM.

[jabilli]

Thank you ^^

I've used the forums for reference for some time now, I've been less active in participating myself, but thanks for the welcome. ^^ I'm pretty sure I'll always have questions. Whether they are good questions or not...that's a different story. :-p

[geargnasher]

Not exactly the way I do it, but at least you made a video, that's more than I've done!

Here's tip you might try: If you need to hit the mould to get the boolits to fall out, use a rawhide mallet and strike the handle hinge bolt, not the sides of the blocks. Strike the opposite direction of the way you were doing it, i.e. straight down on the bolt head. This will prevent damaging the mould blocks and wallowing out the handle pin holes, and the boolits tend to jump out a lot better.

I must say I cringed when I saw you spray oil in the cavities. Not sure how you make that work at all! I get the best results from totally clean, thoroughly degreased cavities myself, but to each their own.

Gear

[a.squibload]

Cool music.

Careful with the water! Good idea to preheat ingots before
dropping them in.

Noticed you didn't flux before skimming, might help.
Also there are threads here about cleaning bottom-pour pots
so they don't leak, or don't leak as much?
I ladle-pour so not an expert on that.

If your boolits are filling out well that's what counts.

[jabilli]

Thanks guys ^^

Gear- Hm, on the hinge bolt eh? I'll try that, thanks. The only beef I have with using a rubber mallet is the oh so lovely smell of it after a while. Not strong, but it's there.

I'm sure cleaning the molds is the proper and better way to ensure the bullets don't stick (also cuts down on number of fins you might make on the seams). I'm generally happy with the rem-oil or wd-40 solution- the first one or two casts right after spraying might be wrinkly because of the cooling but I find it preferable, being lazy. lol

a.squi- Thanks ^^ I've tried both fluxing and not fluxing...I havn't noticed much difference. Maybe a little more contaminants in the non fluxed lead? In any case, beeswax works well, but in the idea of being cheap I bought a crapton of crayons since they were on sale... Looks kinda cool when it's melting, but smells terrible. I'm sure it's a good idea to give the pot a good overhaul on occasion. One thing I do practice is I always keep at least a little melted lead in the bottom in hopes of keeping it clean(er).

I tried the ladle once but wasn't as fast with it, shaky hands and such. To each their own, I bet you could keep up with the bottom spout guys, maybe even faster (I spend x time every couple of minutes readjusting that damned rod.)

[geargnasher]

Jabilli, trade your rubber mallet for a rawhide mallet, or just use a hammer handle from the hardware store and wield it by the "head" end. When you tap the pivot bolt, hit it like a rock drummer hits a snare drum, a sharp tap with just the tip, the faster the better, you want to shock the boolits out, not beat them out.

You might check in to upgrading to the Lee 20-lb pot with the volume you do, it has a better valve design, an adjustable shelf/guide to rest your mould on while you fill it, holds a lot more lead, and is easier to keep clean because you can stir the whole thing due to the vertical valve rod. As you know, it's tough to stir around the angled valve pintle on the 10-pounders. The 20-pounders will still drip if you don't keep the alloy clean, but IMO it's a much better design.

I forgot to mention how much I liked the music, I really dig JLH and techno/trance/rave/dance music, good call!:drinks:

Gear

[birdadly]

Awww I wanted to watch too!!! I had posted a video of my first attempt at smelting WW's, and learned a lot from the gang's comments and criticisms. It's definitely a good way to learn! -Brad

"This video has been removed by the user."

[runfiverun]

he re-done it and has another thread.

jabilli: a look at the leementing for how to smooth out those cavities will help so's you don't have to knock the molds around so much.

hmmm. i thought i would be the only one here that listened to the dance/electronic/dubstep stuff.
[just went and seen steve aoki last night]

[jabilli]

Sorry folks, I did put up a new post with the link but was remiss in attaching the new link in this one, here we go : ^^

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6IiOJZXP1M&list=FLxwtur2W82khvm3hCYWdydQ&index=1&feature=plpp_video

It takes all sorts I guess? :-)
I think we might see with the advent of such media that niche type hobbies might find its way into being practiced in a wider demographic. Though I can't claim to be a raver or anything. :-p

[a.squibload]

I've tried both fluxing and not fluxing...

It should also keep the tin in the alloy, or keep you from scooping out
the good stuff!
I've been pushing the sprue plate open with gloved hand, works fine.
Clean mold, good mold temperature, boolits have been dropping out.
Learned some finer points RIGHT HERE, casting is more fun now!


Off topic?
Check this vid, "robot dance" gone weird, I guess.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXO-jKksQkM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[southpaw]

I will second the use of a gloved hand. I think that it is easier on the mould. I can slide the sprue plate open with it and gently ensure that the blocks align properly. For the boolits that don't fall out a couple wacks on the hing pin with a wood stick (hammer handle works) will drop them out.

I use a wooden stick to stir and scrape the sides of the pot. Anything that floats gets rubed against the side of the pot. Most everything goes back to being lead with some ash left on top.

Jerry Jr.

[Cherokee]

Just a couple of things I noticed. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think shaking the mould while the alloy is hot does any good. Also, you might want to fix up something to hold the mould steady & closer to the spout when pouring. Notice on my Lee 20# below, the steel base (setting on a 2x4) upon which I set my moulds for pouring:

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee102/DCS44256/Reloading/Casting01.jpg

[sig2009]

If you really want to get tired of casting, use a 2 cavity mold like he did. 4 or 6 cavity are the only way to cast!

[kostner]

Just finished a few hours do what your doing and found it interesting. Thank for sharing. Great music. Was using range lead and it very dirty and messy not to mention smokey. Some times you get what you pay for.

[Dennis Eugene]

There is no "only way to cast". Dennis

[runfiverun]

there's my way....... and well.,,, how i do it with the other pot.
i just spent the afternoon with a single cavity core mold pouring 50gr cores i don't think the 10 lb pot even went down.

[MikeS]

Just finished a few hours do what your doing and found it interesting. Thank for sharing. Great music. Was using range lead and it very dirty and messy not to mention smokey. Some times you get what you pay for.

Do yourself a favor, and don't assume what is being done in his video is anywhere near the proper way to cast boolits. If you want to learn, stick around here, read the stickies, read, read, read. Learn how to flux using a wood based flux, how to properly preheat a mould, what's a good alloy to use, and all the other things that will make your boolit casting much better, which will in return make your boolit casting more fun (it's more fun when you can cast good shooting boolits without many (if any) rejects), and do it safer as well.

[Blammer]

Good job on getting started on casting!

I would recommend a wooden stick, to knock open the sprue, and if they stick whack the NUT on the handles, they'll fall right out then.

personally I would stay far away from WD40 when casting. Making that into a vapor when it hits the mould can't be good for you, or the mould. Instead of WD40 get a bic lighter, the long nosed one used for lighting bbq grills, and hold the flame to the cavity for about a second or so to smoke it, may work better than the WD40.

If you would like to cast faster and have your mould cooler, I would turn down the temp of the lead a bit, and then I would use a damp cloth to hold the bottom of the mould to for a second or so after filling. It'll take the heat out of the mould quicker.

I would also use gloves, long welders gloves. I'd preheat the ingots so they won't bubble like that.

Good luck on your continued endeavors!