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161
01-20-2012, 07:04 AM
When I started casting I used Marvflux to flux my lead because that's what the book said to use. From here I found that wood shavings could be used. So when the other stuff ran out I tried pencil shavings after I cleaned my pot up. Been a few mounts now and my lead and pot have never been this clean. So much nicer than that foamy nasty bought and paid for stuff.
161

bobthenailer
01-20-2012, 09:22 AM
I also used marvelflx for a number years , i dont really like it but that was what i was told to use.
Ive been useing candel wax when smelting outdoors and saw dust , wood shavings and Pat Marlins flux indoors. for the past 20 years

ku4hx
01-20-2012, 09:48 AM
When I'm smelting, I generally flux with beeswax and then stir with a 1" hardwood dowel or similar stick of wood.

Sometime around 1980, a local printer gave me some of this stuff; still got half a tube.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/260495/ney-vita-n-flux-fluxing-compound-6-oz

A mite costly, but I use it in my pot while casting if I feel the need to re-flux. Really good stuff. In a full 20 lb. pot it takes a BB size chunk and there is virtually no residue and very little smoke. The odor is not objectionable ... what little there is.

I tried Marvelflx but after a few sessions ditched a nearly full can. Not my idea of a good fluxing material; too many other good choices to put up with its quirks.

cbrick
01-20-2012, 09:55 AM
When I started casting I used Marvflux to flux my lead because that's what the book said to use. From here I found that wood shavings could be used. So when the other stuff ran out I tried pencil shavings after I cleaned my pot up. Been a few mounts now and my lead and pot have never been this clean. So much nicer than that foamy nasty bought and paid for stuff. 161

My condolences on using the Marvacrap but you have seen the light. I won't allow that stuff on my property much less in my shop because the shop is much too close to the pot.

Read chapter 4 on fluxing where this is explained extremely well in plain, easy to understand english. I highly recommend the entire book but chapter 4 deals with your question on flux.

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf

Rick

parson48
01-20-2012, 01:35 PM
I started out using marvelux also. I have about 2/3 of a container than is somewhere back in some cabinet. I found out, thanks to this site, that I can use the remnants of my woodworking hobby to flux. I also occasionally pick a free paint stick or 2 to stir the pot with, and it works great!

Never thought of using pencil shavings. Next time I empty one I'll have to give it a try.

Char-Gar
01-20-2012, 01:45 PM
I never used the Marvel stuff and it was something you had to buy that was needed. I have used beeswax, bullet lube, olive oil and motor oil and they all work just fine.

I bought a lifetime supply of California Flake wood flux from Pat and now use it. It produces less smoke than the oils, greases and waxes, smell good and works just fine. I see no reason why the cedar pencil shavings wouldn't work as well.

Moonman
01-20-2012, 03:55 PM
I just received some of Pat's California Flake Flux and used some yesterday. It worked just fine.

milprileb
01-20-2012, 05:10 PM
I am indebted to those of you that pointed out saw dust for a flux. Its just superb and cleans my pot so well. That nasty Marvelux stuff is a PITA and pot gets coated with its sludge.

Saw Dust: Just works so well, all the candle wax and other things are retired .

oneokie
01-20-2012, 05:22 PM
Best use I know of for using Marvelux---brazing flux.
Second best use---make a paste and coat metal pieces to prevent scale when tempering or annealing.

redgum
01-20-2012, 05:42 PM
I often use hardwood sawdust with some used sump oil stirred through it

runfiverun
01-20-2012, 08:01 PM
well y'all got half of it [fluxing] correct.
the carborization part anyways......
now to get the oxides back into the alloy.

161
01-20-2012, 09:14 PM
well y'all got half of it [fluxing] correct.
the carborization part anyways......
now to get the oxides back into the alloy.

I'm listening..

cbrick
01-20-2012, 09:58 PM
now to get the oxides back into the alloy.

Precisely what the sawdust does.

Rick

runfiverun
01-21-2012, 12:58 AM
you still need an oxygen free barrier to complete the job.

cbrick
01-21-2012, 01:05 AM
The sawdust will do that, either lighting it while fluxing or letting it char while stirring. If bottom pouring just leave it on top as an oxygen barrier to retard oxidation. Either way sawdust will reduce Sb and Sn.

In Glen's book, chapter 4 he explains this very well.

Rick

Buckdane
01-21-2012, 07:10 AM
How do you keep the layer of flux on top when you use a ladle?
It seems to coat the ladle and make a big mess.

cbrick
01-21-2012, 10:24 AM
Welcome to CastBoolits Buckdane,

I only leave it on top when bottom pouring, for ladle casting the sawdust is removed.

Rick

canyon-ghost
01-21-2012, 10:59 AM
Have been using parafin for a long time. I was told that's what you used for fluxing.

cbrick
01-21-2012, 11:25 AM
canyon-ghost, read chapter 4 in Glen's book, see post 4 in this thread for link. You'll understand what your missing out on.

Rick

captaint
01-21-2012, 11:54 AM
Just the sawdust. Stir with a dry wood stick. Sometimes I get energized and smash up some charcoal and let that sit on top. Eventually, that burns up too... enjoy Mike

runfiverun
01-21-2012, 02:41 PM
i have read his book.
i just want to make sure that everybody is clear on the concept
that you need the carbon and the oxygen free barrier to do the job properly.
and that just stirring some sawdust around in the melt is not sufficient.

BOOM BOOM
01-21-2012, 06:54 PM
HI,
I have used all the standards, candle wax, bullet lube, beeswax, sawdust & wood chips, stirring early on w/ a spoon. Then I learned about the wooden dowel, then dry tree branch. All seemed to work, love the pencil shaving idea. Old casters can still learn.:Fire::Fire:

Skrenos
01-23-2012, 08:48 PM
I stir my melt with an old broom handle that's about a foot long. Then I use that same broom handle to hit the sprue cutter on my moulds. If I need some quick fluxing I use dollar store crayons. If you're lucky, you can get a 64 pack for $1.

palmettosunshine
01-23-2012, 11:47 PM
Or I just don't flux at all. Been casting WW without regard to tin content. Scrape the stuff (dross) off the top and start ladle casting. So far, so good.

TinCan Assassin
01-24-2012, 02:42 AM
I stir my melt with an old broom handle that's about a foot long. Then I use that same broom handle to hit the sprue cutter on my moulds. If I need some quick fluxing I use dollar store crayons. If you're lucky, you can get a 64 pack for $1.

I use my daughter's broken crayons. She just gives them to me. Opened my casting drawer one time and there were hundreds of them in there. I'll be in flux for awhile, I think.

TCA

kshock
01-24-2012, 09:47 AM
Pencil shavings...hmmm, there is a good idea. But then I think...how many pencils have you been sharpening? It may take me awhile to get enough.

jonk
01-24-2012, 11:02 AM
I like the idea. As to the air free barrier on top of the melt, immediately after I flux I pour about a third of a cup of conventional (non clumping) cat litter on top. Problem solved. Lead doesn't stick to the cat litter that much so after the pot cools I just pour it out and reuse later. Some might stick but it's not a problem.

I dislike the idea of leaving carbon on the melt as I like to scrape off the dirt that comes up when I flux, though applying a second thicker lay or sawdust after might work.