For the more experienced casters

[Grandpas50AE]

I will try this thread a second time since the first time it lost my logon and timed out....

For the more experienced casters, I have a question. I will start with the scenario, and preface that I jsut fnished Glen Fryxell and Roy Applegate's book "From ingot to Target", and hope I understood the chapters on alloy and lube correctly. I have casted for 38+ years, but have learned a lot here recently regarding the relationship between alloy, lube, and load characteristics.

Scenario: I have a Kimber 1911 in .38 Super that I have no casting molds or sizers for, so I bought some 147 gr. TC BB Penn cast boolits custom sized to .3565" which is the same as the groove diameter of my bore (yes, I slugged it). They are obviously "hard cast" with "hard lube", but I don't have a hardness tester so I don't know the exact hardness. Loading in the 900 fps range I get no leading, and the powder was SR4756. I decided to get some loads at the 1100 - 1200 velocity range, so I loaded some with Lil' Gun from 10.0 gr. to 10.8 gr. and it indeed yielded 1100 to 1200 fps. It also gaave light leading.

My quesstion: did I understand the book correctly that it is likely that a softer lube (I use Javelina on my own cast .44's at 1200 fps and H110) will mitigate or even possibly eliminate the minimal leading I'm getting? I didn't interpret the information as meaning that I would have to melt and re-cast them at a different alloy necessarily (although that might be the case), but thought I would ask before I try a test. My test would be to melt the lube off about a hundred or so, and manually replace the lube with the Javelina I've used for years.

Thoughts,,,,opinions?

[jonk]

I haven't read the book, and there are FAR more experienced casters than I on this board; but having cast now for 14 years let me give you my thoughts FWIW.

I would say there are 4 issues here. Alloy hardness, lube, powder charge and pressure, and bullet fit. They all play together and any one might cause the issue.

Lube first. It's my experience that commercially cast bullets and their inevitable hard lube actually work BETTER at higher pressures and velocities. If this lube worked at lower speeds and lower pressure I don't think that's the issue.

Alloy hardness can play a role. If the alloy is rock hard, what you might be seeing is this. The bullet fit- which is to groove diameter- is hard enough to resist etching and blow by at lower speeds, but not at higher speeds. You need to go 1 to 2 thousandths over bore diameter, or switch to either a lot harder alloy, a gas check, both of which would resist blow by and etching, or SOFTER alloy, which will obdurate better. You're in the worst of both worlds now.

A softer lube might help in that it would leave the bullet and coat the bore better, but I think your problems are a combo of too skinny a bullet combined with too hard or too soft an alloy, depending on your point of view.

[C.F.Plinker]

I know severa shooters that went to Javelina years ago when it first came out and got rid of the problems that they were having with the lube supplied by the boolit manufacturer. They just warmed them up in the oven until the old lube melted and relubed with Javelina.

Another thing I would try is tumble lubing them as is with 45-45-10.

Either way, let us know what you find.

PS, I agree with the above post saying that slightly larger boolits or a softer alloy would be a better long term solution.

[stubshaft]

On those rare occasions that I have used commercially cast boolits I have found the lube to be marginal at best. IMHO - they use a hard lube to insure that it doesn't fall out of the grooves and make a mess. I used to use Javelina then switched to LBT blue and BAC which I still use occasionally and finally started to cook up batches of Felix. The primary reason was that it is cheaper for me to make it then buying lube and I get better accuracy out of a softer lube in standard pistol loads.

[camaro1st]

i havent been at this to long but i have shoot commercially cast and lubed (blue) and have leading. i knew it was time for me to start casting and used a beeswax and vaseline lube mix which is soft with ww and no leading. i melted out the blue lube and used my mix and no leading. hope this helps

[Jailer]

Lil Gun is a pretty hot burning powder. I bet Lil gun in combination with your hard lube is giving you the leading problem since you didn't have it with 4759 and lower velocities.

Experiment with some different powders first and if that doesn't work then try a different lube. My guess is that it's going to take a combination of both to get rid of the leading, but it's just a guess.

Good luck.

[chboats]

50AE - are you sure it is leading or antmony wash, which is a white-ish wash at the muzzle. If not, does the leading continue to build up the more you shoot it? Does effect accuracy? If no to both questions, I wouldn't worry about it.

It is easy to try a different lube and many times a simple change will solve the problem.

Carl

[Grandpas50AE]

From all indications on the cases, this is a moderate pressure load (likely below 30K PSI), so I correlated it to be mid-range as far as pressure goes, and Lil'Gun is not a fast powder, but certainly not a slow powder like H110 or the like. Since I don't have a mold or sizer, I was hoping to not have to scrap them. I do not have the option of making my own lube right now, but I do have some Javelina I can use, and I also have some BAC on the way from White Label as well, so I will probably try both lubes on 50 boolits each to see if it corrects the problem. I will say that the consistency in weight and dimension of Penn's boolits is very good, and all have very good fill-out as far as sharpness of boolit detail.

Changing the dimensions to larger size is not open to me since I don't have a mold or sizer die for this, so I'm hoping the lube change will improve things. I was just looking for a sanity check before going off "half-cocked"...

[Grandpas50AE]

50AE - are you sure it is leading or antmony wash, which is a white-ish wash at the muzzle. If not, does the leading continue to build up the more you shoot it? Does effect accuracy? If no to both questions, I wouldn't worry about it.

It is easy to try a different lube and many times a simple change will solve the problem.

Carl

It is definitely leading. It occurs mostly in the mid-length area of the bore but smaller amounts extend almost to the muzzle. I had only shot 50 rounds or so, and the 10.8 gr. loads were last of course since it was a new powder for that boolit. The most accurate load was the 10.8 gr. load by far, averaging 1205 fps. I would like to mitigate the leading, albeit minimal, because it takes extra effort to clean the pistol aftreward. I would not say it negatively affects accuracy for short shooting sessions like the 50 rounds I fired, but that's a pretty limited amount and I usually like to shoot a few hundred in a session.

[Grandpas50AE]

Lil Gun is a pretty hot burning powder. I bet Lil gun in combination with your hard lube is giving you the leading problem since you didn't have it with 4759 and lower velocities.

Experiment with some different powders first and if that doesn't work then try a different lube. My guess is that it's going to take a combination of both to get rid of the leading, but it's just a guess.

Good luck.

You may have hit on something, as I have tested many powders in the rifles over the years with regards to flame temperature. Hodgdon has many powders for the rifle calibers that burn very cool, but I have never asked their ballistician about the burn temps of their pistol/shotgun powders. I'll have to take a look at that. I had decided to try this powder because it seemed to be the only one I had handy that would drive that bullet at that velocity at moderate pressures, but flame temp could also be playing a role here.

[Grandpas50AE]

i havent been at this to long but i have shoot commercially cast and lubed (blue) and have leading. i knew it was time for me to start casting and used a beeswax and vaseline lube mix which is soft with ww and no leading. i melted out the blue lube and used my mix and no leading. hope this helps

I think this will be my most readily available option at this time, and I'm looking forward to experimenting with just the lube change for now.


I want to thank everyone for the ideas and sanity check so far.

It will be a few weeks before I can post results, since there is a gun show here in Dallas this weekend. I will see if I can find a hardness tester at the gun show, if not I will order one from Mid-South or maybe even LBT.

[MtGun44]

Boil some boolits to remove the lube and relube with NRA 50-50 and try it. Sounds like you
are just barely outside the capability of that lube.

Also, a bit larger may help.

Bill

[casterofboolits]

I have cast for and loaded for the 38 Super since the mid 70's. It was the first auto cartridge I loaded for.

I use a "tough" alloy rather than a hard alloy for my 38 Supers and 9's. I size .357 and use Magma lube. The Magma lube is malable rather than hard and adheres to the boolit well.

I cast with Saeco four and eight cavity moulds. 38S-158-SWCBB (designed by Wilson), 38S-145-RNBB, 38S-145-SWCBB. I used the 38S-158-SWCBB for my standard IPSC/USPSA load. It generated a 187 PF, but shot so soft in my comp gun that I never adjusted the load.

I use BlueDot and Accurate #7.

Basicly, I have no leading that a couple swipes with the bronze brush won't take care of.

[cbrick]

Diddo, boil the old lube off. Just put them in a pot, cover with water and put it on the stove. By the time the water is boiling the lube will have melted off and float to the top. Turn the heat off and let cool. Once at room temp the lube can be simply picked off the top of the water.

I too think you have small bullet but I guess for now it is what it is. I've never been a fan of hard lubes, it takes too much heat & pressure to get the lube to do what it's supposed to. At very low pressure loads it can be ok simply because the lube doesn't need to do much. Re-lube them with the BAC that you ordered and the Javelina, could make a difference.

Rick

[Lloyd Smale]

comercial casters use that hard lube so that after all the handling a bullet gets by the time it gets to you its still got its lube in the grove. Problem is it usually stays so good that even after a trip down the barrel a good part of its still on the bullet. Hard lubes will work in a perfect gun with the right alloy or sometimes in rifles at high velocitys but for handguns your much better off with soft lubes. Much is said about which is best and the fact that some lubes give better accuracy then ohters. I think again this is mostly a thing with rilfes and higher velocitys. Ive had good luck with about any decent soft lube. Ive used alot of javalina which is the same thing as 5050 nra. Ive made my own 5050. Ive made alot of felix lube and have used many others. I dont see a huge diffence in any of them. As a matter of fact anymore i just buy lars lubes because you cant make them any cheaper. I tend to migrate toward medium consistancy lubes like lars 5050 which is half corduba red. Years ago when i used alot of javalina and felix i had a bit of a problem with storing bullets. I have bullets that have been on shelves for years and in the heat of the summer the real soft lubes would partialy melt. I asked for solutions and the consensous was to add paraphin to it. I went another route and added red rooster or magma hard blue. I figured a guy would be better off adding something that was an actual lube then adding just wax. Lars took care of that with his blend and i dont have to spend hours making it and it cost no more then what i spent to make my own.

[Bret4207]

I'm astonished you have the good shooting you do with the boolit sized at groove diameter. Have you measured and recovered boolits? You may be getting a bit of obturation.

A slightly larger boolit or different lube/powder may be the ticket.

[Grandpas50AE]

I'm astonished you have the good shooting you do with the boolit sized at groove diameter. Have you measured and recovered boolits? You may be getting a bit of obturation.

A slightly larger boolit or different lube/powder may be the ticket.

I know the boolit obturates, because that is what I used to slug the barrel. I ran a patch soaked in FP10 down the barrel to lube it then used a wooden dowel to tap the boolit through the barrel, and there was a fair amount of resistance even with the FP10 in the bore. FP10 is really slick stuff. I must surmise that the boolit is just a thousandth or half a thousandth larger and I can't see that on my micrometer with these old eyes. My plan later this spring is to get a mold for it, hopefully a plain base 140 gr. SCW and size slightly larger, but for now I'm going to try just changing the lube. If that doesn't work, I may try a different powder as well and see what the results are.

PS. - At 25 yards the 10.8 gr. loads put 5 of 8 touching each other, the other 3 were within a half in of that; the boolits shoot very well.

[Wayne Smith]

With leading halfway down the barrel and on you have a measure of where your current lube is failing. As Bill said, you have just gone over that lube's speed limit with that bullet in your bore. Change to a softer lube and you are likely to be able to shoot the rest.

[runfiverun]

you changed the pressure on the boolit by changing powders.
i'd try upping the charge.

[Char-Gar]

Bad bullets...

Alloy to hard
Bevel bases cause leading issues
Worthless wax lub

[GP100man]

The bhn would be helpful to a point .

But you have exceeded the alloys ability to grab the rifling or exceeded the sheer strength .

Bigger boolits may help, but ya got enuff pressure to bump it up to bore size.

Softer lubes may help according to ingredients.

But in the end you`ll have to slow em down to work , may not take but 50 fps less.

Your in the gas check pressure range .

[rintinglen]

Before you spend a bunch of time boiling, I'd try tumble lubing with either LLA or better yet, the aforementioned Recluse 45-45-10 (Liquid Alox, Johnsons paste Wax and mineral spirits). I bought a 500 count box of 180 grain 44 boolits that gave me similar problems to what you have described. The extra lube of the 45-45-10 was enough to eliminate most of the leading and I was able to shoot the rest up with no more than normal clean up.

[zxcvbob]

First thing I would try is lubing the bullets with Liquid Alox or Alox/paste wax. (and leave the hard lube on there too)

1200 fps should not be hard to achieve in a .38 Super -- I assume you have a 5" barrel. So I'd also try a cooler-burning powder, like maybe Herco or AA#7 -- I don't know if those are actually cool-burning or not, but they've gotta be cooler than Lil'Gun or Titegroup. I use max loads of both Herco and AA#7 in .357 Magnum without leading. (The #7 was a replacement for Blue Dot that leaded like the dickens.)

A little leading is not really a bad thing (it's just annoying) as long as it doesn't keep building up thicker and thicker.

[mpmarty]

Try a different powder. I find AA7 and AA9 to be excellent in 10mm.

[bobthenailer]

I have 2, 38 supers one has a Nowlin match and the other a Kart match barrels , both barrels slug at .355 and in them bullets sized @.357 shoot the best with no leading.
As far as Lilgun it is very simular in burning speed to H110 and 296 powders !

[Cherokee]

Both my 38 Super match barels are .355 and I have used .356 sized bullets for over 30 years. I shoot hundreds during a session and never have an accuracy problem due to leading but I do get trace leading in the guns. It cleans up real easy. I shoot 109 to 146 gr bullets at 1000 to 1300 fps using White Label CR, or in the past Thompson CR. I like Bluedot, AA7, HS6, and 231 for light loads.

[looseprojectile]

reading post #22 again.
Just a coat of straight [thined] Alox or even a coat of paste wax will have to help some.
You don't have to remove the old lube.
I shot a Star 9mm Largo that I altered to shoot 38 supers in and had zero problems going to 1,200FPS with Lee Aloxed boolits. The little TC ones. 1,200 is rather fast for 147 grain. [too hot?]
Size matters but a lot of the commercial lube is a joke. Those boolit sellers know better.


Life is good

[Grandpas50AE]

Have not changed the lube and shot any yet, but I did find a boolit mold design I liked on the Magma site, just ain't gonna afford a Magma machine. I emailed Tom at accurate molds to see if he could help me with the design of something similar. I emailed him Friday afternoon, and early Saturday morning he had replied that the design had been added to his catalog. It is number 35-140S, so I have placed and order for a 4 cavity brass mold this morning. I think some of you guys are right, he must not sleep. I am extremely impressed with his responsiveness and level of service. Now, to be patient for the arrival of the molds.:groner:

[44magLeo]

In my Lyman book they list 114 powders by burning rate. H-110 and 296 are 49 and 50, lilgun is 58. Thats a fair step slower. I might try a faster powder. Something more in the range from the sr-4756 to 2400 34 to 44 range. The quicker podwer gives the bullet a bit harder kick in the butt and will help it obturate better.
You said the boolits you have are custom sized, next time order them sized to .357.
Leo

[mstarling]

I suspect that 147 gr TCs for Super were probably intended as practice bullets for IPSC major Super. Means it is expected that folks will push them to abt 1200 fps to give a little headroom for major power factor.

The expectation is probably also that they will be propelled by something like #7, 3N37, 3N38, or Blue Dot.

I've shot more of those things than imaginable. And cast a bunch to shoot as well. Both with and without compensators on the barrels. Have worn out a number of Nowlin barrels over the years.

The commercial blue lube is not much to write home about. Works only reasonably well. But I cleaned pistols with a brass brush in a bucket of varsol.

You might try the old NRA formula Alox/Bee's wax or the LAR lubes if you want to minimize smoke. They work better than the blue stuff.

[Bullwolf]

I know the boolit obturates, because that is what I used to slug the barrel. I ran a patch soaked in FP10 down the barrel to lube it then used a wooden dowel to tap the boolit through the barrel, and there was a fair amount of resistance even with the FP10 in the bore. FP10 is really slick stuff. I must surmise that the boolit is just a thousandth or half a thousandth larger and I can't see that on my micrometer with these old eyes.

A couple of suggestions. I don't mean to come off confrontational here as it sounds like you are just working with the materials that you currently have on hand.

That being said...

I was always under the impression that one should slug a barrel using a pure lead slug, or as close to pure as you can get. That's why so many folks like to use a soft lead fishing sinker for slugging. If you slugged the barrel with a moderately hard bullet, you can get a fair amount of boolit spring back, and the measurement might not be all that accurate. (Your bore slug can measure larger than it really is from spring back)

It is possible that your attempt to slug the barrel has given you some erroneous sizing information, and your boolit size may be a bit too small for your application.



My plan later this spring is to get a mold for it, hopefully a plain base 140 gr. SCW and size slightly larger, but for now I'm going to try just changing the lube.

You could try two coats of tumble lube on the boolit, and see if that helps things out any. Especially if you aren't in a position to correct the boolit fit issues right now. It might let you shoot up the boolits you have on hand, until you are able to get a mold and address the sizing issues better.


If that doesn't work, I may try a different powder as well and see what the results are.
As was recommended by another 38 super loader/shooter, try something along the lines of Blue Dot, or possibly AA#7 if you have either of those powders on hand, or if you are thinking of picking up another powder at the gun show you could add those to your shopping list.

Best of luck with it, and I hope you get the leading situation all sorted out.



- Bullwolf

[cajun shooter]

This thread is filled with several correct and dead on answers.
When you have leading it will tell you the problem by where you find it. You stated that yours was midway which states that your lube broke down and did not work past this point. I see where several members have suggested you use alox. I'm not a fan and believe in the old style lubes.
Another member also hit on the fact that you used one of your bullets to slug with and that is wrong since the bullets are a hard rather than soft alloy like plain lead at 5BHN.
While out at that gun show see if you may find some .357 to .358 PB bullets that are of a softer alloy and maybe even find some of the White Label 50/50 or just BAC.
I would go to a fishing supply store and buy some egg sinkers that are close to your bore size. They will give you the correct bore size as I think you have a incorrect reading at this time. If not then at least you will know that it is in fact as you measured it. This will allow you to purchase the correct mould. I hope that you ordered a larger size and advised Tom of your intended alloy.
The combination that you choose has many bad things that could be the fault of not one thing but many.
To me the BB bullet allows gas a starting place to go before making it past the bullet.
If you open your case mouths and anneal brass the loading of a flat base is very simple and fits the bore more to my liking.
The easy way I remove lube is to place all of your bullets on a cookie sheet or pizza pan and put into a 250 degree oven while watching you will see the lube run out of the grooves and be like a new bullet .
I think that a bullet and lube change will solve your problem. Lil Gun is a good powder when used with the correct components.
You should look at the Cabin Tree BHN tester that is made by forum member Gussy. He has a site on the forum. The Cabin Tree may not only give you the hardness but on rifles it can check for bullet run out which is a huge plus if shooting competition ammo. It is built like a tank and will last for several generations of family members if this world of ours can hang on.
Take Care David

[Grandpas50AE]

BullWolf,
I appreciate your suggestions, and I don't take anything you said as confrontational. The suggestion to slug the barrel with a softer alloy slug is probably spot on anyway, as the ahrd cast may not have swaged up in size to fill the bore. I think I will do thatas soon as I find a lead ball close to that size in my various parphernalia bins. Great suggestion, thanks. And you're right, for now I'm just working with what I have on hand. I don't have any liquid lube or tumble lube, so I'm going to do as others have suggested for that - my Javelina 50/50 and also some with the BAC that is on the way now.

[Grandpas50AE]

Cajun Shooter,
I agree that many suggestions in this thread have been spot on, and am thankful to everyone who has posted. I will look at Gussy's hardness tester and see if I can afford it fairly soon. The leading, as you observed, is not radically bad, it is just a light streaking mostly in the middle part of the bore, and certainly doesn't continue to build up - it just takes more effort to clean the bore than I really want to do on a regular basis.

[Grandpas50AE]

In my Lyman book they list 114 powders by burning rate. H-110 and 296 are 49 and 50, lilgun is 58. Thats a fair step slower. I might try a faster powder. Something more in the range from the sr-4756 to 2400 34 to 44 range. The quicker podwer gives the bullet a bit harder kick in the butt and will help it obturate better.
You said the boolits you have are custom sized, next time order them sized to .357.
Leo

Thanks for that info, I didn't know LilGun was that far down on the burn rate chart. The SR4756 is a great mid-range powder, and is my stand-by for 9mm, .38 Super, .40 S&W, and .45ACP for all my practice rounds at the middle of the velocity ranges, but I was looking to find something for the upper range and the other powders seem better suited for the pressure range. I haven't seen any listings on their website for 2400 in the .38 Super, are they listed in their printed manual?

[geargnasher]

Read Jonk's post at the top again.

If you have leading, it's because you have a gas leak, PERIOD. It isn't a "lube failure" except that the dynamic fit of the boolit was too poor for the particular lube to stopper the gaps under the pressure at the time.

The term "Obturation" is being used to mean something different than when I use it throughout this thread, and while I'm not trying to beat anybody up over it, change lifelong habits or the world, I AM trying to use proper terminology as I understand it within this thread to avoid confusion, and explain that when I say "obturate" I mean something else. What causes leading is loss of obturation. Obturate, in the truest sense, means block, and the way I use it refers to the effect that a properly fitting boolit has of sealing up the barrel against gas pressure. Boolit "bump up", "slug-up" or deformation under pressure is what is meant when a boolit gets shorter and fatter under pressure to obturate the bore under certain conditions.

Lube helps obturation since it is a microscopic stop-leak that gives the final perfection to the dymamic fit of the boolit/bore interface as the boolit traverses the less-than-perfect course of the rifling. In order to maintain perfect dynamic fit and prevent leading, the load has to be balanced from primer strike to muzzle exit. The powder has to be the correct match for the caliber, boolit weight, and alloy, the alloy has to be matched to the pressure and velocity (within reason), the lube needs to be the correct lubricity AND viscosity for the pressure and pressure curve of the load, static boolit fit must be good to prevent the lube and lead dust from being blasted off the boolit before it even gets engraved. the powder type and charge must be close enough to right to keep the boolit moving down the barrel to the end without under- or over-pressuring the delicate land trailing-edge engraves, and a thousand other factors. In other words, the whole process must be a balance that is directed toward ONE end: TOTAL obturation from beginning to end. If you can achieve this, accuracy, bore condition, and performance will be where they should be.

So if you're getting lead deposits halfway down the barrel, look to what could be causing loss of obturation at that point. The dynamic fit DIDN'T at the point the leading starts. Your challenge is to discover why this happened by changing things one at a time and observing the results. Could be propellant pressure slacking off and causing the loss of seal. Could be the boolit is too hard or too small for the pressure. Could be the alloy isn't flexible enough. Could be the lube isn't flexible enough, or slick enough. You get the idea. Working with what you have, I'd take the advice to tumble-lube the existing boolits and see what that does. If it helps, don't draw the conclusion that it was a lube problem alone, because the tumble lube coating can make the boolit must a tiny bit larger as it goes down the barrel, and this might be just enough to create the obturation you need to stop the leading.

Gear

[Grandpas50AE]

Thanks Gear, your definition is the same as mine. As far as the fit and alloy selection are concerned, I have a mold on order from Tom at Accurate Molds and will be able to address the fit and alloy selection as soon as I can begin casting my own. At that point, with the abundant information in this thread, I'm sure I will be able to achieve ideal results.

[geargnasher]

I wonder if some of the big commercial boolit casting outfits will ever "get the picture" that they lose a lot of business because their boolits are too hard, too brittle, too small, and the lube they use almost universally sucks wind.

Until then, you're on the right track with getting a mould the right size and casting your own with better alloy and lube more suitable to your particular application.

Good luck!

Gear

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
LIT GUN powder is very hot burning, & may be part of your problem:Fire::Fire:.

[44man]

HI,
LIT GUN powder is very hot burning, & may be part of your problem:Fire::Fire:.
That it is! :drinks:
Now for slugging, I have piles of round ball molds and they work best cast of pure lead. Just pick one large enough for the bore.
I know that nobody wants to buy 100 balls to slug a bore but there has to be some ML shooters close. They will give you what you need.
NOT INLINE SHOOTERS though.
Sinkers work but they are changing metals too much. Fish eat them and get lead poisoning I guess! :roll:
That would make lake Erie a hazardous zone considering all I have lost out there.
Lead is just not that dangerous unless you eat it. I consider all this lead ban stuff back door gun control brought on by Kalifornia since many that live there are brain dead.
I just thought and I have neighbors here in WV so liberal and stupid I don't know how they feed themselves so I can't get too serious about Kalifornia, they live and breed all over!
Pure lead is getting hard to find but is the best and I do not trust stick on WW's either, I found zinc.
Sorry, I have to stop rambling on. [smilie=1:

[looseprojectile]

you have handles for your new mould when it gets there.
Not sure what handles will fit that mould.
I think you are not far from solving your leading problem.
You certainly have had enough good responses.
Good luck.

Life is good

[Grandpas50AE]

you have handles for your new mould when it gets there.
Not sure what handles will fit that mould.
I think you are not far from solving your leading problem.
You certainly have had enough good responses.
Good luck.

Life is good

The RCBS handles I had from a different 2C fit them just fine. Cast some up yesterday, lubed/sized them, and loaded them. Will shoot then probably this upcoming weekend. I'll let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks for taking the time to reply, much appreciated.

[Grandpas50AE]

I finally made it to the range yesterday with the re-lubed Penn bullets (re-lubed with Javelina). First, I have to eat a little crow. The load info earlier in this thread was a flip-flopped. The Lil'Gun was what I was using on some plated boolits, and the Penn cast were loaded with SR4756, however the velocity of those cast boolits was 1150, so still close to the conditions I originally posted (I think I posted originally at 1200).

The re-lubed boolits were a little snappier, so I presume the better lube gave them a little more velocity. THE LEADING IS GONE! I had loaded 50 rounds to test with and that would have given me a noticable lead wash before, but after yesterday's session the gun cleaned up really quickly. To tell for sure, I have some left-over Corbin's Bore Lap that I put on a patch wrapped around a bore brush and scrub. If there is any lead, that pulls it out in a hurry and you can see the lead paticles on the patch, but there weren't any yesterday.

Later today I will be going to shoot the new Accurate Molds 35-140S SWC boolits I cast last weekend, and will post later this evening on how those did.

My humble appreciation for all who posted advise on this thread, thanks again.