PDA

View Full Version : Holographic Sight for SS / .32 H&R



Pilgrim
03-04-2007, 09:31 PM
Like most of my parts, my eyes ain't what they used to be so I need to change my peestol sights. I noted Dale53 mentioned a Nikko sight for his SP101. What are good small holographic sights that will fit a Ruger Single six? Pilgrim

Dale53
03-05-2007, 01:25 AM
I was just speculating about that sight but it DOES intrigue me. As a matter of fact, I have a rather inexpensive reflex sight that I am going to put on the SP101 when or if I get it back from my pistolsmith:( (there was a mix up on what needed to be done and I am partially responsible).

When the mount is finally installed, I will give the reflex sight (not quite as compact as the Nikko but MUCH less expensive) a good trial. I'll report back as to my findings.

This eyesight problem that plaques nearly ALL of us starting at about 40 years of age is nicely addressed for target pistols or large hunting revolvers by the use of pistol scopes and Red Dot Sights. However, those of us who use "Trail Guns" have not had those concerns addressed at all. The Nikko sight and some others may be the light at the end of the tunnel. The supposed better ones are quite pricy. I am not at all crazy about paying as much for the sight as I am for the revolver. However, I want to be able to use it well and seeing is paramount. It'll be interesting to see what technology gives us in this area in the near future. I, for one, hope that I am still around to enjoy it:mrgreen:...

Dale53

Mallard57
03-05-2007, 12:03 PM
As I suffer from the same problem, I too have contemplated a red dot sight. My question is a little off topic but relevant I think, you mentioned wanting to use this pistol as a trail gun. What holsters are available that accomodate a pistol with a red dot sight?
Jeff

Pilgrim
03-05-2007, 01:20 PM
I am not aware of any useful holsters that would accomodate the holo-sights. The holsters in use for IPSC, etc. are as near useless in the real world as I can imagine. I don't want a hard plastic shell on my belt that just barely holds the pistol in place. For myself, I have the tools and know-how to build my own holster for the single six, assuming I can figure out how to put a mount on it.

The Nikko web site infers they are making mounts for their sights, but no info is available there re: mounts as near as I can find. The Nikko will fasten on a Weaver style base, or a grooved receiver. The grooved receiver ain't gonna happen with the single six, and the only Weaver style base I can find that will fit the pistol is aobut 4" long. Why would I want a tiny sight (1.5" in length) mounted on a huge base? I don't want to alter the metal of the pistol, so no base appears to be available. At least my web searches haven't revealed an small base. So far it's a non-starter for me. Hence my question on our board. If there is a pistolsmith out there that has an idea, please join in and enlighten me.

Pilgrim

Dale53
03-05-2007, 04:53 PM
I would prefer to wait until I get my SP101 back from the 'smith before REALLY commenting.

However, I WILL comment, anyway.:-D

I have given this entire thing some serious thought. Right now, I am looking at an Ultra Dot simply because they are readily available and only weigh about four ounces. I also have a reflex sight that fit's a Weaver rail. The rail is what I am having put on my SP101. It will probably have to be milled from a "blank" Weaver rail from Brownell's. This will be far longer than I need and will probably do four or five revolvers. At any rate, I have used these Weaver (blank) rails on several single shot rifles. They come in several different heights. For the revolver, I intend to use the thinnest rail available just to keep bulk down. I am only going to suggest a rail the length of the reflex sight or the mounting area of the Red Dot (depending on which you prefer).

Now, the holster. I cannot come up with a design that will actually work until I see what my SP101 looks like. However, my general idea is to make one from leather. I may possibly have an advantage in that I have a friend who makes Kydex holsters for the market. He may just be "induced" to make something up for me. What I have in mind is similar to an auto holster that has the front cut down ahead of the rear sight. While I wasn't looking, it seems that everyone in the world has gone over to the dark side (now, only autos are featured:( ). I have and use autos a LOT but for sport shooting I much prefer a revolver (guess I'm showing my age). Here is a web site that features a Kydex auto holster:

http://www.blade-tech.com/Injection-Molded-Belt-Holster-pr-815.html

Now, scroll down to the bottom on the page for a good picture of this holster. See how it is "cut away" in front of the rear sight (that's so the auto pistol will jump out into your hand[smilie=1:). At any rate, visualize this as being a revolver holster with the cut out following the Weaver base. The reason I mention the possibility of Kydex, it has an unsupported strength greater than leather in the "cut away" area. If I make one out of leather, it will have to have a metal reinforced lip which would add to the complexity.

I am not fond of Kydex, in general, due to the perceived noise of the material. However, I can probably live with it, if necessary.


There is a much simpler solution. I have a concealed carry permit, so a fanny pack of the appropriate size might be just the thing. Here is just a sample:

http://www.ccwsupply.biz/CCWLeatherFannyPackPAGE.htm

I will probably try my fanny pack as soon as the SP101 comes home. When hunting, quick draw is not needed. Secure carry, is however, important. The fanny pack could easily do that. It may or may not be quick draw but can certainly be "rapid acquistion:-D

Just some thoughts of a woods rambling kind of guy...

Dale53

Pilgrim
03-05-2007, 09:16 PM
The holster you describe is what I envisioned also. For the cutout area in the front I was thinking of two, or possible three layers of leather to give it stiffness. Thinking about the "hold down", I believe I would make up a full flap holster just to keep the whole thing simpler than doing a thumb break or trying to figger out a thong. A cut down Weaver rail would probably work just ducky. I'll check Brownells out and see what they have available. Pilgrim

fecmech
03-05-2007, 09:49 PM
Like most of my parts, my eyes ain't what they used to be so I need to change my peestol sights. I noted Dale53 mentioned a Nikko sight for his SP101. What are good small holographic sights that will fit a Ruger Single six? Pilgrim

There are a couple ways you can go. The more expensive way would be th "J" point sight http://www.jprifles.com/ and modifying one of their mounts.
Another way is get one of the 3/8" rail .22 cal generic mounts from Brownells, have it mounted to the top strap of your single six. Get a 1" Millett red dot (they are very good and very compact) and some inexpensive 1" rings that fit .22 cal 3/8 mounts and mount the Millett on the 3/8 rail. Much more compact than the Weaver rail and recoil is not a problem on a .22.
I actually did that using a Tasco 25MM dot with a self contained mount on my S&W model 34 Kit gun. I glued the 3/8 rail on with aircraft 2 part caulking compound called Pro-Seal and it worked fine. I took it off a year ago when I got a J point for it that I used a modified K frame J point mount and glued that on with proseal.

Uncle Grinch
03-05-2007, 10:25 PM
There are a couple ways you can go. The more expensive way would be th "J" point sight http://www.jprifles.com/ and modifying one of their mounts.
Another way is get one of the 3/8" rail .22 cal generic mounts from Brownells, have it mounted to the top strap of your single six. Get a 1" Millett red dot (they are very good and very compact) and some inexpensive 1" rings that fit .22 cal 3/8 mounts and mount the Millett on the 3/8 rail. Much more compact than the Weaver rail and recoil is not a problem on a .22.
I actually did that using a Tasco 25MM dot with a self contained mount on my S&W model 34 Kit gun. I glued the 3/8 rail on with aircraft 2 part caulking compound called Pro-Seal and it worked fine. I took it off a year ago when I got a J point for it that I used a modified K frame J point mount and glued that on with proseal.

I have something on my Ruger Mk II Target pistol that may be the same sight as this J-Point sight. Many years ago I purchased a Tasco Optima 2000 from Midway and used a custom mount from Wiend (sp?). It is very compact and uses the rear sight holes. I believe that Tasco no longer makes this sight, but both J-Point and Dr Optik now offer versions. Mine cost around $200+ but they now go for much more now.



My version is the small 3.5 minute dot and works great for bullseye work. You can replace the #2032 battery with two 2016 batteries and get a little more brightness on the dot.

BigSlick
06-02-2007, 09:38 AM
FecMech,

Sorry to dig up a thread from the distant past, but can you tell me a little more about the ProSeal compound epoxy ?

As in how well did it hold the rail to the gun, and how hard was it to remove ?

Any permanent consequences or effect on the top strap or frame ?

Thanks in advance

'Slick
________
SweetXAngelX (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/SweetXAngelX/)

fecmech
06-03-2007, 08:15 PM
Slick--Pro Seal is not an epoxy but a 2 part aircraft caulking compound. It sets up about the consistancy of tire rubber and is used as an aerodynamic smoother, fuel tank sealant you name it. It is all over commercial aircraft! You mix it like an epoxy and it sets up similar in that heat accelerates the set up and cold slows it down. It glues things together pretty well and remains flexible, think like the rubber motor mounts in your car. In a kind of "what the heck" test I glued a Wiegand mount to my Ruger Super Blackhawk .44 mag and mounted a cheap BSA dot sight on it. I then fired 100 rds of 25/296/250 gr keith bullets out of the gun and the mount held! I used a padded pair of channel locks and peeled the mount off with no damage to the gun or mount. You can peel the pro seal off with your finger nail, plastic scraper and I've used the Chore boy copper scrubbers on my blued guns and it does not hurt the blueing a bit.
You must thouroughly degrease the gun and mount where you want it to stick. You can use masking tape where you don't want it to stick and to smooth it put some liquid detergent on your finger and you can tool it without sticking.
The technical name is pro seal PR1440b 1/2 and what I have is from National Sealants & lubes. 1-800-527-0011 or nationalsealants.com. http://www.nationalsealants.com/prc_desoto.htm
Below you can see the old mount I had on my Kit Gun and the "J" Point mount that's now on it. It's not what you would put on your Barbque gun but it works well especially on a .22.