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fredj338
11-25-2011, 10:59 PM
Anyone running a Magma MasterCaster? I was in the middle of casting this am & it just quite flowing. I let it cool, took out the orific plate & cleaned it, put it back, fired it up again & no joy. I don't think it was contaminated alloy, but I did ladle put as much as possible & put a bit of known alloy in, still no joy.
thx

deltaenterprizes
11-26-2011, 11:49 AM
Do you have a lead thermometer? What is your alloy temp?

fredj338
11-26-2011, 07:11 PM
Do you have a lead thermometer? What is your alloy temp?

Alloy was running as high as 750 at one point, it just quit flowing. I have an e-mail into Magma, maybe they can give me some thoughts.
thx

FirstBrit
11-29-2011, 07:21 PM
Alloy was running as high as 750 at one point, it just quit flowing. I have an e-mail into Magma, maybe they can give me some thoughts.
thx

Hello,

I have two Master Casters and one Bullet Master, I assume that when you press the operating lever to the right of the pot that the valve stem which seals the pour orifice does actually lift? On the newer machines ther is a grub screw which limits the upward travel of the valve stem. If screwed in too far there is just not enough movement in the valve stem for lead to flow.Try backing out this screw to allow for more movement - hence stronger melt flow to see if this works. When your pot is on and the melt is up to temperature can you see any drips forming on the underside of the pour plug? Try removing the pour plug while the pot is hot and then actuate the operating lever. Use a small Lee ingot mould or similar to catch any lead which might come out. If your thermometer is correct then 750°F should be even good for pure lead. I cast muzzle loader RB's from pure lead at 375°C ( 707°F).

Best regards,

Adrian, Germany.

fredj338
11-29-2011, 08:09 PM
Wie gehts Adrian, thanks for the reply. Yes, it does drip when I push the handle, just won't flow. My next thing was to remove the orific plate & try to see if I could get it to flow that way. I've had it for about 20yrs now, always runs fine, then it just stops, wierd. I may try to get every last bit of alloy out of it & see if I can find something wrong w/ the delivery system. It is the older one that does not have the adjustment.

FirstBrit
11-30-2011, 03:19 AM
Wie gehts Adrian, thanks for the reply. Yes, it does drip when I push the handle, just won't flow. My next thing was to remove the orific plate & try to see if I could get it to flow that way. I've had it for about 20yrs now, always runs fine, then it just stops, wierd. I may try to get every last bit of alloy out of it & see if I can find something wrong w/ the delivery system. It is the older one that does not have the adjustment.

When the pour plug drips is the lead in the pot fully melted and is the temperature up to the full 750°F?
As you pointed out it could be the delivery system. Best way to check is to empty the pot using a ladle until as empty as possible. Then if you have thick welder type gloves plus some old towels it should be possible by grabing the pot by the operating lever and the mounting frame to tip it sideways to let the remaining melt run off. If you have the whole assembly bolted to your worktop then of course you need to remove the bolts first. Alternatively, to can remove the pot mounting bolts to the frame. Now you can switch off the heater and remove the operating lever, coil spring and valve stem . It's best to do this while everything is still hot otherwise a smidging of lead sitting in the well of the pour hole could sieze when cold and prevent easy removal of the valve stem. Then proceed to clean the pot walls and bottom. Loose debris is removed by scraping the rest I remove with hot water. Just clean water NO DETERGENTS You can do this by temporarily replacing the valve stem to seal the pour orifice in the pot before adding boiling hot water. You will probably need to clean the stem first. A brass wire brush should do the trick, be very careful not to damage the point of the valve stem or to change the angle of the point since this is critical for creating a good seal in the pot afterwards. The point I clean up with very fine polishing cloth. If the well in the pot needs cleaning don't use any sharp tools like a screwdriver. I do the following, cut off some small pieces of a soap ( plain soap bar not the synthetic or or transparent glycerine soap bars!) Now stuff these pieces into the well and switch on the heater. As the soap starts to melt insert the valve stem temporarily and rotate the stem. Like you would when reseating an exhaust valve in the cylinder head of a motor engine. After switching off the heater add some boiling hot water to see if the valve stem gives a good seal. If everythig looks okay, let the hot water run off and switch on the heater until the residual moisture in the pot has completely disappeared. Now add some freshed soap shavings to the orifice well before mounting the valve stem, coil spring and operating arm. Now switch on the heater and add some lead scraps just enough to give 1-2" fill in the pot. Wait until fully molten then try pressing the operating lever in short bursts and check whether the valve stem seals to satisfaction. If not you'll have to repeat what I have just explained. If okay proceed to add more lead. If the pour plug starts to drip small taps on the head of the valve stem with a 2-4oz. hammer can cure things. Be careful if the cap on the valve stem is probably only spot welded. The weld broke on one of my valve stems because I was too generous with the hammer. Remedy was to fix this by drilling and using a split pin. This could o course also be your problem, if you have not been so kind to your valve stem like I did!

Best regards,

Adrian, Germany.

fredj338
11-30-2011, 04:07 PM
Thanks Adrian, I'll give it a try. Magma hasn't contacted me yet, kinda pissed about that. Pretty poor CS for something that cost $1000 today!

Moonman
11-30-2011, 06:51 PM
fredj338,

Give em' a call 480-987-9008 Pacific time zone

castblaster
12-01-2011, 12:42 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/a6cd0b7d-0513-89ed.jpg

I had a piece of lead drippings get under this adj. screw once. Had me scratching my head for bit. symptoms same as you.


Matt Hooper

fredj338
12-01-2011, 01:47 AM
ThanksMatt, mine is older & I have no adjusting screw. I think a call tomorrow will be on the list.

Mohillbilly
12-01-2011, 10:28 AM
Well the Lee dripomatic does this too. I belive the alloys seperate in the nozzle (cooling) .after a while I just put the propane torch to the drip-o-matic nozzle and run some out in a ingot mold .