tumbling brass in stainless steel media

[DGV]

Does anyone here have or use a drum type tumbler with stainless steel tumbling media? It looks like thin cut wire about 3/8 inch long. Thousands and thousand of them them . ADD SOME LEMI-SHINE AND WATER AND LET HER GO! I have seen a few on YouTube and they seem to do ok by what the owner says. Looking for first hand repports here, THANKS!

[Ickisrulz]

Does anyone here have or use a drum type tumbler with stainless steel tumbling media? It looks like thin cut wire about 3/8 inch long. Thousands and thousand of them them . ADD SOME LEMI-SHINE AND WATER AND LET HER GO! I have seen a few on YouTube and they seem to do ok by what the owner says. Looking for first hand repports here, THANKS!

There has been a few discussions on SS media. Just run a search and you'll find them. Some people love it. Others think it's a lot of work even if the results are great.

[GRUMPA]

Here I found it for you.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=114916

That should give you all you need to know.

[klutz347]

I haven't done it but from what I've seen and read, The results are outstanding.

[kshock]

That is how I do it. Never going back to other methods. Squeaky clean cases, the grunge, powder and lead residue go down the drain with the water, not on (or inhaled by) me.

[Cadillo]

I have two Thumler Model B's with SS media. Best thing since dry toilet paper!

[DGV]

GRUMPA Thank you for the heads up. All the information I require. My only concern is the limited capacity for the Thumler models. i Currently use a Dillon Tumbler. The big one. I can put almost 1000 45 acp cases in it. But it is a PITA. Dusty media, replace media, etc.

[Lizard333]

I have been using this method for a few months now and I will NEVER go back to the old ways again. This stuff works and is no more a pain than going through and removing media from your primer pockets and cleaning the primer pockets. I swear by this stuff and recomend it to anyone.

[GRUMPA]

GRUMPA Thank you for the heads up. All the information I require. My only concern is the limited capacity for the Thumler models. i Currently use a Dillon Tumbler. The big one. I can put almost 1000 45 acp cases in it. But it is a PITA. Dusty media, replace media, etc.

Your welcome as that's what this site is all about. I've seen those Dillon tumblers at there store years ago and thought to myself I could never use something that large. According to the instructions that came with my rotary tumbler they say you should put in 160-180 45 cases, I know I've done more than that. I just put in a little less water for decreased weight and let it run for 4hrs.

I live on solar which means off the grid so I have power issues. I'm sure your on grid power so it's only a time issue for you. But for me not having to buy media and polish etc. it's a very minor thing for me to concern myself with, the end result speeks volumes for itself.

[jengle15]

I just switched to this method, with my Thumler's Model B. Yeah, its a little more work on the drying side, but I gain it back not having to clean out the primer pockets.
I decap with a universal decapper, then tumble, and no dirty cases go into my sizing dies.

I wish I had heard of this years ago.

[Moonman]

The Thumbler's Tumbler Rock Tumbler Model "B" 15 pound High Speed 3000RPM Motor, 40 RPM Drum Speed,
is a WET TUMBLING METHOD with a ROTARY NOT A VIBRATING TUMBLER.

1 Gallon of Water= 8 pounds
5 Pounds of "MARKS" Stainless Steel Media (.041/.042 Dia. x .252/.255 in length and Magnetic to aid with removal.
2 pounds total weight of any BRASS.

Add a little DAWN DISHWASHING SOAP and a 9MM cap full of LEMI-SHINE Rinse agent.

8+5+2= 15 pound total load.

Tumble from 1 to 4 hours depending upon original condition of brass.

Your Brass will look like NEW, Especially the PRIMER POCKETS.

NO DUST, The Media lasts and doesn't need replaced.

The Thumblers is about $180 plus shipping, 5 pounds SS Media is about $53/$55 shipped from "MARK", the guy who started this craze.

Contact (PM) "ZUKE" for Marks e-mail contact info, as he DOES NOT WANT IT POSTED on public forums.

I've seen larger rotary tumblers, say 40 pounds total weight at about $800 up for people with really large brass loads.

MOONMAN

[Ickisrulz]

I just switched to this method, with my Thumler's Model B. Yeah, its a little more work on the drying side, but I gain it back not having to clean out the primer pockets.
I decap with a universal decapper, then tumble, and no dirty cases go into my sizing dies.

I wish I had heard of this years ago.

If you used the proper sized media, you wouldn't have to clean out primer pockets.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/521055/econoline_526040g-40_40_lbs_blast_media

[blikseme300]

The Thumbler's Tumbler Rock Tumbler Model "B" 15 pound High Speed 3000RPM Motor, 40 RPM Drum Speed,
is a WET TUMBLING METHOD with a ROTARY NOT A VIBRATING TUMBLER.

1 Gallon of Water= 8 pounds
5 Pounds of "MARKS" Stainless Steel Media (.041/.042 Dia. x .252/.255 in length and Magnetic to aid with removal.
2 pounds total weight of any BRASS.

Add a little DAWN DISHWASHING SOAP and a 9MM cap full of LEMI-SHINE Rinse agent.

8+5+2= 15 pound total load.

Tumble from 1 to 4 hours depending upon original condition of brass.

Your Brass will look like NEW, Especially the PRIMER POCKETS.

NO DUST, The Media lasts and doesn't need replaced.

The Thumblers is about $180 plus shipping, 5 pounds SS Media is about $53/$55 shipped from "MARK", the guy who started this craze.

Contact (PM) "ZUKE" for Marks e-mail contact info, as he DOES NOT WANT IT POSTED on public forums.

I've seen larger rotary tumblers, say 40 pounds total weight at about $800 up for people with really large brass loads.

MOONMAN

I don't doubt that Mark is a stand up guy but why is he trying to stay incognito?

Tumbling using metallic media has been around a long time so why the secrecy?

Come on and get real! If "Mark" has the magic sauce then he can
capitalize on this regardless of the competition.

Bliksem

[edler7]

I've been using it for about 6 months. I'll never go back to dry media. The brass is clean as a whistle when it comes out- primer pockets, inside the case...everywhere. I got lucky and found an old rock tumbler at a garage sale a few years back- think I paid $15 for it with 2 drums. I bought 5 pounds of SS media and got to work. I even tumbled cases I had already done in dry media just because it's so much fun to open the lid and see brass that looks brand new. I use 1-2 tablespoons of Dawn and 1/4 teaspoon of LemiShine per tumbler. According to the guys who have used it a while, if you don't have suds when you open the tumbler you need to add more soap initially. I find that 1-2 tablespoons gives me plenty of suds at the end of the run.

My tumbler has a large motor on it (1 HP I think), so I don't worry much about how much I put in the tumbler...but I found out half full or a little less with media and brass is about the max for efficient cleaning in 3-4 hours. That's probably 100 30-06 or 300 .45 ACP. I don't ever shoot much more than that at 1 time so it's not a problem.

If you can afford the initial set up cost, do it...you won't be sorry. The SS media lasts forever so there's no replacement cost...you just have to pony up once in a while for a little Dawn and LemiShine, and you have brass that always looks new.

['74 sharps]

I started loading early this year, and so far have done about 7000 with my Thumler and ss media. I use a universal decapping die, tumble, then size. Some type of citric acid like lemon juice helps clean, and is supposed to be good for brass life, a little hand dish detergent, and 1 - 2 hours works well. The water from the tumbler looks like ink - I would never use a system that did not prevent that crud from going into the air.

[Circuit Rider]

Spoke with a gent at Buffalo Arms, he said they are finding it only takes 3 pounds of SS media to do the job with a Thumlers Tumbler. CR

[Lizard333]

Spoke with a gent at Buffalo Arms, he said they are finding it only takes 3 pounds of SS media to do the job with a Thumlers Tumbler. CR

This is good because it seems like those little pins drop and bounce everywhere! My initial purchase was a little better than five pounds but I am sure it's less now after a year.

[Will]

I've got one of those rock tumblers from harbor freight. It won't hold much and takes about 6 hours or more with corncob. would this stuff work with it?

[Cadillo]

I don't doubt that Mark is a stand up guy but why is he trying to stay incognito?

Tumbling using metallic media has been around a long time so why the secrecy?

Come on and get real! If "Mark" has the magic sauce then he can
capitalize on this regardless of the competition.

Bliksem

I've made multiple purchases from him him and have spoken with him on the phone extensively. He is the real deal and has legitimate reasons for his MO, which is similar to my own.

If you are not comfortable with that, you can get a comparable set up and price from Sinclair International. They will even exchange Christsmas cards with you if you like.

[Cadillo]

This is good because it seems like those little pins drop and bounce everywhere! My initial purchase was a little better than five pounds but I am sure it's less now after a year.

A magnet is your friend!

[William Yanda]

I keep my ss magnets right next to the aluminum magnets, on the shelf under the lube grooves.
Another item I find handy on the reloading bench is right hand monkey wrenches for left hand widgets.

[DLCTEX]

I keep my ss magnets right next to the aluminum magnets, on the shelf under the lube grooves.
Another item I find handy on the reloading bench is right hand monkey wrenches for left hand widgets.

Actually most of the SS media being sold is magnetic which is a great selling point as it is much easier to pick up spilled media that way.

[prs]

Well, I gotta say I have not yet found a reason to add the stainless steel rods to my set-up. I have wet tumbled for years in a Thumblers Model B. I started out using Spic-N-Span (trisodium phosphate) and water and it worked well without any "media", but the brass was not shiny; but rather just a dull brass color and pockets were not always totally clean. Then I noticed the ceramic rods with the Spic-N-Span and tried that once or twice and it got them fairly bright and very clean, but sort of a matt finish. The killer was getting the dag-gone media out of the cases and keeping it out of the drain. The ceramic is now in a bucket on the shelf.

Then you guys started palaver'n about citric acid. I tried that and the citric acid plus water and no "media" get them totally clean and fairly shiny. Even old cases that have been out for months and full of mud and blackened. So why the need for the steel? I fill the tumbler abut 3/4 full and add a teaspoon full of citric acid powder plus a tablespoon of dish liquid and just enough hot water to almost cover the brass. I let it tumble for a 3 hours or so and rinse all filth away.

prs

[willie_pete]

The magnetism of SS depends on the amount of nickel in the SS. Ferritic SS is magnetic; austenitic SS in not magnetic.

WP

[BigBlack]

SS for me all day every day. Even put my ultra sonic to rest once I ponied up the $50 for the SS media.

[Moonman]

The magnetic stainless AIDS IN THE MEDIA REMOVAL from the drum.

[Cadillo]

I keep my ss magnets right next to the aluminum magnets, on the shelf under the lube grooves.
Another item I find handy on the reloading bench is right hand monkey wrenches for left hand widgets.

Sure sounds like you have some interesting tools. I've yet to see a magnet made of stainless steel or aluminum as you describe, but those I have made of iron and ceramic work quite well at picking up stray stainless steel pins, which are indeed stainless steel and actually remain always submerged in water.

All stainless steel, with the exception of the austenitic group strongly attract a magnet.

I guess I live a sheltered life, as I have yet to encounter any of the type that will not attract a magnet. I have ten lbs. of the stainless media, and it not only attracts a magnet, but over time has become somewhat magnetized due to having been gathered up through use of a magnet.

I didn't just dream this stuff up. Any naysayers might do a little reading. Here's a good place to start:

http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1140

[Cadillo]

Well, I gotta say I have not yet found a reason to add the stainless steel rods to my set-up. I have wet tumbled for years in a Thumblers Model B. I started out using Spic-N-Span (trisodium phosphate) and water and it worked well without any "media", but the brass was not shiny; but rather just a dull brass color and pockets were not always totally clean. Then I noticed the ceramic rods with the Spic-N-Span and tried that once or twice and it got them fairly bright and very clean, but sort of a matt finish. The killer was getting the dag-gone media out of the cases and keeping it out of the drain. The ceramic is now in a bucket on the shelf.

Then you guys started palaver'n about citric acid. I tried that and the citric acid plus water and no "media" get them totally clean and fairly shiny. Even old cases that have been out for months and full of mud and blackened. So why the need for the steel? I fill the tumbler abut 3/4 full and add a teaspoon full of citric acid powder plus a tablespoon of dish liquid and just enough hot water to almost cover the brass. I let it tumble for a 3 hours or so and rinse all filth away.

prs

If you are happy with the results you are getting, there's no need to do anything different. I use stainless pins to tumble after first decapping my cases. Using the pins, I am able to clean both the case interiors and primer pockets to the point that they look like gold jewelry in less time than it took me to do a much lesser cleanup using corn cob in a vibratory cleaner, something I did for several decades. Many might say that this new method is overkill, but it works for me.

I do the decapping and tumbling outside , so all the primer dust, dirt, corrosion, etc. never comes into the house where my presses are mounted. Because my cases are sparkling clean, my loading area stays very clean and clear of carbon, primer dust etc., and my primers seat SO MUCH easier without the carbon buildup in the pockets. Simply removing the decapping process from the loading press helps a lot in keeping the loading area clean, but brass that is clean both outside and inside is the end all in that regard.

SS media will not appeal to everyone.

[Sonnypie]

300 series Stainless Steel is Non-Magnetic.
400 series Stainless Steel is Magnetically attracted.

But there are some folks in New York who don't know that.

http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Sonnypie/P2030272.jpg

http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Sonnypie/P2030275.jpg

http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa382/Sonnypie/P2030279.jpg

Separating the brass and SS media in water makes it really easy. With a tumbling type separator it gets ridiculously easy. And it rinses out the SS media bright and shiny clean as well. (As you can see)

First there was no cleaning.
Then solvent dampened rags.
Then vibratory tumblers and corn and nut media's.
Now there is Stainless Steel.

Does the media EVER wear out? Nobody knows yet. So far it appears it doesn't. And it is self cleaning in a water rinse.
It does give the best results known to reloading, to date.
I keep a small rare-earth magnet on my tumblers lid. If I see any of the shiny sliver pins on the driveway or in the expansion slot, I simply slide the magnet towards the edge of the lid and gather them up.
Then put them back in the tumbler.
You can also do the same with an extending pocket magnet. But the rare earth type doesn't appear to rust at all from the wetting and drying.

You can keep the lead and aluminum magnets.
I'm looking for one that picks up gold. :wink:

[Lizard333]

Your looking for a magnet to pick up gold, heck I would be quite apply for one that picks up brass and lead!!! ;)

[foxtrapper]

I always use the dry method even when I used a tumbler. I now use the Dillon vibrator with great results . A couple of question about the wet SS . SS is harder then the brass any wear problems? How do you dry the cases?

[Moonman]

Sonnypie,

Nice Photos and post, maybe we should just let people have dirt and dust. There are people who never learn, can't be trained, won't listen to facts, and travel there own merry road. Those folks probably should just be left to their own assinine intellect. Progress is wonderful if you choose and can afford it.:kidding::veryconfu

[Lizard333]

I always use the dry method even when I used a tumbler. I now use the Dillon vibrator with great results . A couple of question about the wet SS . SS is harder then the brass any wear problems? How do you dry the cases?

First question. No wear problems at all. I have accidentally left the brass to tumble overnight and it still looks great with no noticeable wear.

Question two. When I separate the cases from the media I use a Dillon case separator. This rotates and allows the media to separate. From there I take the cleaned brass and rinse it under hot tap water. I then toss it in a colander to get the majority of the water out of the cases. I then take the brass and roll it over a clean bath towel to get the outsides dry. If I'm going to reloading it immediately I will toss it in the oven at 200 for 15-20 min and then let them cool. Otherwise I just leave them out and they dry over a day or to on their own.

Seems like a lot of work but it really isn't to bad. You get a routine and it goes pretty quick. The results you get are more than worth the effort!!!!!!

[blikseme300]

I typically use the generous Texas sun and wind to dry my wet cleaned brass but in our short "winter" these are absent. I looked around my man-cave to see what I could come up with. A heat gun came to mind but an "Ah-Ha!" moment struck.

I have a stainless steel dehydrator unit that is used for making biltong (similar to jerky) that has a heater and fan unit. A deep fry basket and presto! Dry brass in 2 hours.

I am not concerned about contaminating the unit as all traces of primer material are gone from the brass after a cleaning using STM and LemiShine.

Bliksem

[foxtrapper]

First question. No wear problems at all. I have accidentally left the brass to tumble overnight and it still looks great with no noticeable wear.

Question two. When I separate the cases from the media I use a Dillon case separator. This rotates and allows the media to separate. From there I take the cleaned brass and rinse it under hot tap water. I then toss it in a colander to get the majority of the water out of the cases. I then take the brass and roll it over a clean bath towel to get the outsides dry. If I'm going to reloading it immediately I will toss it in the oven at 200 for 15-20 min and then let them cool. Otherwise I just leave them out and they dry over a day or to on their own.

Seems like a lot of work but it really isn't to bad. You get a routine and it goes pretty quick. The results you get are more than worth the effort!!!!!!
I do like how those SS cleaned cases look ,primer pockets and all!

[Lizard333]

I do like how those SS cleaned cases look ,primer pockets and all!

I couldn't agree more!!!!

[Cadillo]

I always use the dry method even when I used a tumbler. I now use the Dillon vibrator with great results . A couple of question about the wet SS . SS is harder then the brass any wear problems? How do you dry the cases?

The only small issue I have found is that after several hours of run time, cases will show a very slight peening of the case mouths. On my pistol ammo I consider this inconsequential, but as my rifle ammo is loaded with maximum accuracy in mind, I lightly chamfer the cases prior to loading so as to not affect bullet pull.

Drying is very easy. I first give them a good rinse in clear water, and then a final rinse in a mixture of water with a slight amount of Lemishine, which greatly enhances the brightness of the brass when done. I put the cases in a small coarse mesh bag that I bought at Walmart(It's marketed as a bag for drying tennis shoes in a clothes dryer). I then place the bag over the exterior A/C unit at the house. They are thoroughly dry pretty quickly with no energy expenditure.

[Cadillo]

The belief by some to the effect that "Most Stainless Steel is non-magnetic" seems to be unsupported. Until this thread got started, it was my belief that all SS was magnetic, as all I had ever worked with was. It was only through research that I've learned that there are some types that are indeed non-magnetic, but I have yet to see any that falls into that category. I know from reading that it exists, but have yet to see it.

In further effort to learn about this subject, I assembled eveything I own that is made of SS and tested it against a magnet to see whether I could identify any SS object that was non-magnetic.

I tried SS S&W revolvers: all magnetic
Sig Pistols with SS slides: all magnetic
Sig pistols with SS frames: all frames magnetic
Remington 700 SS rifle: bbl, receiver, and bolt magnetic
Two Randall Made knives with SS blades: all magnetic
Buck Pocketknife with SS blade: magnetic
Puma pocketknife with SS blade: magnetic
SS flatwear(2 sets): all magnetic
SS media: magnetic
SS dial caliper: magnetic

This is all the SS that I own, and it is all magnetic. It may well be that are large heavy objects made of non-magnetic SS, which when their total production weight is compared to that of the magnetic variety, makes the statement 'Most SS is non-magnetic" true, but among the many and various items one might normally find around the house or workshop, it's just not the case.

I would be curious to learn of any specific objects that are indeed made of a non-magnetic variety of SS.

[Cadillo]

I've got one of those rock tumblers from harbor freight. It won't hold much and takes about 6 hours or more with corncob. would this stuff work with it?

If it has a waterproof liner and sealed lid for containing wet media, it should work as long as you don't overload it weight wise. The Thumler's Model B High Speed models that I use are rated at 15 lbs. capacity, which is reached pretty quickly with 5 lbs. of media, a gallon or so of water, and enough brass to bring it up to weight. I always run two that I always overload, but I keep the motors and the shafts well oiled, and have had no problems with overheating or unusual wear.

I typically run my brass for four(4) hours, which cleans it thoroughly inside and out, including the primer pockets. I used to run my brass in a vibratory cleaner with corncob for forty-eight hours straight and the inside and primer pockets were still nasty.

There is no comparison between the two methods.

[willie_pete]

I would be curious to learn of any specific objects that are indeed made of a non-magnetic variety of SS.


I worked engineering in the chemical industry for many years. All of the corrosion resistant piping was specified for either 304 or 316 grades of SS. They contain about 14% nickel and were indeed non-magnetic.

My wife's SS jewelry is also non-magnetic.

WP

[Jeff Michel]

Willie pete is correct, The same thing applies in food industry.They use 300 series stainless for it's corrosion properties for piping/ product vats/tanks, equipment. It's easy to identify if it has been cleaned properly and it's resists rust fairly well. It draws a magnet almost a well as a pine 2x4. 400 series is for cutting tools/sewing needles/knives and anything that requires a temper.

[armexman]

If there is a naysayer in the Northern Front Range of CO, let me know by PM. I will lend you the set-up and help you do one run of your most favorite brass. After you rinse and dry your cases you must give me back my stuff!! For I know that within five minutes you will be ordering your own Kit. maybe even without permission like I did;) I still have tumblers and a small rotary Thumblers, but will not run the brass through the old methods to clean and polish; as the STM is the best way.

Really is there not something that we reloaders do not already do that is tedious and yet we still do it as there is no "New fangled STM" that we could now use to make it easier?

[Cadillo]

Thanks guys. Sounds as though I may have been onto something when I guessed that total production weight of the non-magnetic variety might exceed that of the magnetic variety. Tanks, vats, and industrial piping add up in weight more quickly than pistols, knives etc.

I've just never encountered the stuff. Interesting!

[Alchemist]

I haven't seen a post regarding how nickel plated brass fares in the SS media....not saying that it hasn't been addressed, just that I haven't seen it. (I could've missed it.)