Bigtime newbe

[292]

My wife gave me a 29-2 for Christmas last year. I love to shoot it but, can't always shoot it as good as I would like. I read an article online from the 70's, it said to shoot a 44 well you need to shoot it a lot, to afford to shoot it a lot you need to reload and cast your own bullets. So here I am. Christmas is comming and reloading/casting stuff can be under the tree. Please give advice as to where to start. Thank you very good.

[Bret4207]

If it was me, and welcome BTW, I'd get a simple single stage press kit from Lee. I'd collect up a mess of 44 Special brass, Mag too. I'd probably buy the cheapest jacketed 200 or 240 gr bullets I could find to learn on. Even one box will get you through the basics, and don't forget asking for broken boxes at a dealers. Sometimes they go cheap. I'd start off and stick with mid range loads using Unique for a while. Use mid range loads giving 900-950 fps right out of the book in the Mag brass, 800-850 in Special. I'd also start looking for cast boolits sized to .431 or .432, wouldn't worry a bit about how hard they are and would load them to the same level as the jacketed.

For casting I'd collect a steel pot, a ladle of some sort and a heat source like an 1100 watt open coil hot plate or a Coleman type stove, or an apartment size used range top. I'd start with the Lee push through sizers-.431 or .432, and tumble lube them. I'd use what ever mould appealed to me, but it's really hard to beat a 200 or 240 gr SWC or FP. GC or PB, your choice, but PB is less expensive int he long run, but a GC is easier to get good results as the speed/pressure increase.

I'd start collecting wheel weights- you will NEVER, EVER have too many. In fact collect any lead alloys you can find, it's trade goods.

Learn to reload first. Safety comes first and you have to get the basics down. Casting isn't for everyone, some odd ducks hate it.

I very. very strongly suggest you get the Lyman 3rd edition Cast Bullet Handbook. They have a newer edition out too, but I haven't seen it so can;t make a recommendation. You NEED that book. While some people use Lees loading manuals, I personally find them extremely limited and hard to use. For metallic loading either the Lyman or RCBS books are good as are Speer, Hornady and Sierras. Do not hesitate to buy the older "out of date" books, they are much, much cheaper and still have great info. I'm using books from the 20's and 30's as well as the 40's, 50's, 60's up on through to today. They all have info you can make use of.

Start nice and simple and concentrate on making the best ammo you can. Stick with the low and slow mid range loads for some time till you get the hang of this. It may take a week or 6 months, either is okay. One step at a time and RECORD EVERYTHING YOU DO GOOD AND BAD!!! Trying to remember if you trimmed brass or used Mag primers or if it was Red Dot or Blue Dot you used...well, just write it all down as you go.

It's a great hobby, but you can blow you and your gun up if you decide to be stupid. Low and slow works just fine. After you go through your magnum stage you'll probably find yourself coming bake to low and slow anyway.

[adrians]

bret just about covered everything you need to start.
a big +1 on the lyman #3 book it will give you a great foundation to build on, also +1 on the "older ideal books " i have many and there is always something in them you need to know.
welcome and be safe,,,,,,:twisted::coffeecom:twisted:
iv'e only been loading and casting about 8 years and everytime i pick an oldie up it's like the first day in class,,,,:CastBoolitsisbest:

[canyon-ghost]

Lyman #3 or #4, gives you casting details AND load data. I have the 3rd Edition and use it for background for any other manual, it is very,very good.

I'm shooting a Ruger in 44 Special with 200 grain Lee RF (round, flatnose) that work well, along with a Lyman 215 grain gas checked boolit. Either shoots real good, especially at 50 meters (it's a long enough distance for offhand).

Joined the crowd and loaded Unique to 7.4 grains, shoots wonderful.

[bobthenailer]

IMO i agree with almost everything ! i use only 44 mag cases for any load ,
and have obtained excellent accuracy doing so out of 6 different S&W 44 mags .
Allthough i have five different, 44 mag moulds from 200gr to 300 gr, my go to bullet for 99% of my shooting is a Saeco 200 gr TC bullet ,I use 5.5 gr of BE or TIGHTGROUP @800 fps or 7.0 gr of BE or TIGHTGROUP @950 fps and 13.0 gr of HS6 @1300 fps .
Good Luck
Bob

[Bwana]

I'll first ask the most important question: How much do you have to spend? From that I would make recommendations as to what to buy. There is no sense in buying lesser equipment if you have the money and are going to be in it for the long haul. And you most likely will be in it for the long haul. Very addicting, if you can support the habit.
It's sort of like when someone comes to me expressing an interest in buying a firearm. My next two questions are always, what are you going to do with it, and how much money do you want to spend.

[Wayne Smith]

Will somebody who knows computerese PLEASE post a link to Glen's book for this poor guy? It's a free download and covers all you need to know.

Where in NE NC are you? We have several members in the general area. One of us may be close enough to mentor.

[P.K.]

Will somebody who knows computerese PLEASE post a link to Glen's book for this poor guy? It's a free download and covers all you need to know.

Where in NE NC are you? We have several members in the general area. One of us may be close enough to mentor.

The sticky is above on the page, "From ingot to target."

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=110213

[Hardcast416taylor]

All the advice on equipment and manuals is good info,but! Nobody has asked if you have any loading or casting experience. My suggestion is to get with someone that handloads for learning that part of making your own ammo. Next I would find someone that casts and has done it for awhile, and soak up all that that person will impart to you on the world of making cast boolets. I got my S&W M29 waaaaayy back before the first "Dirty Harry" movie hit the theaters. The only changes I`ve done to it are Magna-porting the 6" barrel, doing a trigger and spring job, putting Hogue grips on and keeping it cleaned and lubed.Robert

[captaint]

Now, go back and read Bret's post again. May even want to print it. Really covers what you need to know for starters, and for a little later on. enjoy Mike

[Bret4207]

I'll first ask the most important question: How much do you have to spend? From that I would make recommendations as to what to buy. There is no sense in buying lesser equipment if you have the money and are going to be in it for the long haul. And you most likely will be in it for the long haul. Very addicting, if you can support the habit.
It's sort of like when someone comes to me expressing an interest in buying a firearm. My next two questions are always, what are you going to do with it, and how much money do you want to spend.

I get the impression you feel the Lee presses are among the "lesser equipment"?

[MtGun44]

Lee is a very good place for the newby to start. Lee's stuff is MUCH cheaper to buy than
the competition and when you are starting out - you are in sticker shock mode for quite
a while. Lee isn't the finest equipment but it is all serviceable and will get you going.

If, after you are experienced, you want to buy some more expensive gear, you will know
why and what without asking.

Bret is dead right. My biggest contribution is to load moderate loads at first, and probably
start casting with lighter weight boolits - only because the lead consuption is lower.

Welcome and good luck. Ask if you need more.

Bill

[44man]

I get the impression you feel the Lee presses are among the "lesser equipment"?
I have to express myself too. Lee does make a lot of good stuff and I have lots of it. But a lot of the "all in one" kits leave too much that will need replaced. You also get a lot of junk not needed.
I would go with a single stage press and everyone has good ones, even Lee has a nice one.
Then a good balance scale.
The Redding powder measure.
Hornady dies.
Shell holder. ANY!
A Lee 20# production pot.
Lyman ladle.
Loading block you can make from wood.
Any decent case trimmer and deburr tool.
A boolit mold and even Lee has some that are good.
Lee push through boolit size die.
Home made boolit lube.
In the end it is more economical to get a good start. It really is better to pick and choose for what works better.
A new reloader is really in a fix. He has no idea at all. He has to read a lot and ask questions, LOTS of questions until he finds things are not as complicated as first thought. But wrong dies, wrong lube and a lot of other things that should have been avoided at the start will save money and make better loads.

[geargnasher]

All good replies.

All I can say is to second the motion to buy a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, preferably third edition, and read all of the chapters with comprehension. Read every page, even the goofy ones. Then you will know ONE good way to cast boolits.

Oh, don't use Marvellux, just trust me on that one.

Gear

[tonyjones]

Welcome!

Read all of the Stickies, then read them again.

Regards,

Tony

[292]

My money is limited by the economy and the fact that I'm in this to save money. I know from experience that I can go overboard so I want to start out on the cheap. I have a mechanic friend who says I can have all the wheelweights I want. I've done some casting just not boolits. Already downloaded and read from ingot to target. Buying different powder is not a problem but I have some green dot that I use for shotshells. Been saving brass since my first shot. Thinking about the Lee 50th anniversary kit.

[Bret4207]

The Lee presses are fine. The kits are okay, but really, a press, Lee die set, a decent powder scale or scoops even and a lube pad will start you out. Sometimes the kits come with stuff you won't ever use. Used stuff is good. An inexpensive dial caliper from Harbor Freight will do for checking brass and AOL.

Being naturally cheap and realizing not everyone even likes reloading or casting, I understand your point and concur. I have seen way, way too many people jump into this with both feet and start off with progressive presses, $300.00 pots, 6 banger custom moulds, etc. to want to see it happen again.

Simple and cheap will work just fine.

[44man]

A powder measure is not needed to save more money. I use those little scoops that come with Lee dies and trickle the powder into the scale pan all the time. All my 4759 loads and course powder get weighed even if I throw the charge first with the measure, then I use a scoop to get to weight but many times I don't bother changing my measure. I did without one for many years.
I have all kinds of tricklers but tapping the scoop handle with a finger does as well.
I would suggest a Lee hand priming tool though to make life easy. The only cases I load that won't fit them is the .500 Linebaugh and .50 Alaskan.
Another thing I forgot to add is a powder funnel. Not really needed but cheap enough.
Like Bret, I hate to spend money because of SS now but loading stuff will pay for itself so fast with prices today of ammo, it is foolish to shoot anything but what you can make yourself.
Then to have free WW's, just how much better could it get? Powder, lube and a primer---that's it, cheaper then .22's!
Lube pads, primer flippers, plastic loading blocks and tons of other stuff are not needed. A hunk of wood and a drill will make great blocks.
I agree too that a Lee kit will do OK.

[mdi]

Lot's of good info thus far. Personally, I'd suggest you start with "The ABCs of Reloading", read it and you'll have a good idea of what equipment will suit your reloading needs. When I started, my ammo consumption was low, mebbe 150 rounds per month, so I used a Lee Loader to learn the whys and wherefores of reloading. One article on starting cheap; http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tech_notes/archive_tech_notes.htm/51 but I'd include a single stage press and dies too. I'd suggest waiting to cast bullets until you get reloading down pat, as you can purchase some really good cast or plated bullets (measure the cylinder throats of your .44 and buy bullets the same size (.431" throats, get .431" bullets). Before I started casting I bought a lot of bullets from Bear Tooth Bullets http://www.beartoothbullets.com/bulletselect/index.htm They have .44 cal. bullets from 240 gr. LFN to 405 gr. WLN and diameters .429" up t .432".

But whatever method you choose, go slow, double check everything, and enjoy...

[mroliver77]

When I started I used Lee dies and the powder scoop that came with it. I graduated to the full set of scoops later. I did not have a scale until later after loading many bullets. Lee scoops and data for them are very conservative. I had a used RCBS press and went with Lee trimmer for rifle brass.

To start casting I used a steel saucepan, a Lyman ladle, a propane burner I salvaged from a camper range top, a Lee single cavity tumble lube mould and some Lee liquid alox for lube. I didn't size the boolits then. Today I would use electric hotplate with STEEL sauce pan, Lyman ladle, Lee 2 cav mould with standard lube groove and white label lube. A used beam scale and Harbour Freight digital calipers as soon as finances allowed.

You can do this pretty cheap if your patient and frugal!
Welcome!
Jay

[EDK]

LEE equipment for casting. MAGNUM MELTER 20 pound ladle pot, six cavity tumble lube mould; press mounted sizer; LEE LIQUID ALOX; LYMAN or RCBS ladle.

DILLON SQUARE DEAL reloading press. (More yankee dollars for a 550B IF you anticipate reloading for other calibers.)

LEE or DILLON scale to check powder charges.

I'd recommend TITEGROUP, HP38/WW231, UNIQUE, RED DOT/PROMO or HERCO; about 1000 low end loads per pound from any of them.

:cbpour::redneck::Fire:

[292]

To quote Vinnie Barbarino "I'm so con-fused!"

[Moonie]

292, where in northeast NC are you, perhaps we have someone in the area that could help, I'm in central NC but would be happy to show you the ropes of casting and reloading. I do need to tool up for 44mag/special as one of my sons recently purchased one.

[292]

How and why do I need to measure my barrel or cylinder throats. If I buy ammo off the self I get whatever size it happens to be. If I reload I need to measure? Is this leading, accuracy or safety.

[Moonie]

leading and accuracy. In order to size properly you have to know what size to size to, normally .001-.002 larger than groove diameter. With revolvers it is also complicated by the fact that the cylinder throats might not be the right size for best accuracy and leading issues. Ideally the cylinder throats should be slightly larger than barrel groove diameter. Lots of posts about this on here. I'd suggest reading up on the stickies, hundreds of years of experience in those things.

Keep in mind, if you simply want to reload you can size to anything you wish, for making accurate, non-leading custom rounds you must handload, which includes attention to detail. Big difference between reloading and handloading.