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Scrounger
06-15-2005, 07:52 PM
I'm about to venture into an area that is new to me, so once again I seek your advice. My weed whacker chopped down the weeds and they died but they left a 4 or 5 inch stubble that don't look good at all. Next door neighbor, another old fart about my age just moved here a few months ago from Detroit. He bought one of the Sears 25 horse tractor/mowers to fight his weeds. And it does a pretty good job, cuts them a lot lower than mine were and he even looks like he's having fun riding around cutting. He even came over and trimmed mine down lower. He has several attachments for it, one of which is a scraper/grader to level the ground. We both need to use that but the light duty scraper don't make much headway on the baked-hard ground strengthened by the roots and weed stubble. We're hoping that it might work better after a rain to loosen up the soil. So the question is; what is the next step up in tractor size from the $2500 models we're looking at now? Does John Deere or one of the Japanese companies put out a good small tractor that's big enough to do what I want?

Buckshot
06-16-2005, 01:17 AM
.............Scrounger, I'm not really up to speed on the current crop of 'Gentlemens' tractors, but I'd look hard at exactly what you want to accomplish. This is a rare example, but a friend with horses and 1-1/2 acres was in Sears one day and managed to buy the floor model of a last years manufacturers discontinued model.

I don't recall the HP but it had a 2 cyl Kohler with a hydrostatic trans and PTO. He bought every accessory that the store had for that model. Had a mower deck you could drop and pull out by pulling 4 pins and removing a belt, and a neat little trailer. It had a little disc that was worthless as it would just bounce along on top of the ground. I welded 4 arms on it like a cradle and we put a 35 gallon plastic barrel on it you filled with water for weight. THEN it worked :D . Also made him a kind of a ripper thing with RR spikes and 3 pieces of angle iron to drag around.

It also had a pull behind roto tiller that ran off the PTO and a small blade for the front, but it was manual and I couldn't see much sense in it unless you pushed snow. All together he paid $2800 some odd for it.

Smaller 'full size' type tractors are kind of spendy and their accesories are comensurate. I don't know how much property you have, how it's laid out or difficult to navigate around. Nor do I even know what you want it to look like. If you disturb the surface as in discing or use of a spring tooth you'll have dust. The easiest and least expensive if weeds are the main problem is just to spray.

You can get a backpack sprayer with a wand or a motorized type like a Herbie and then just spend an hour walking your property as if you were mowing it. If you spray before the weeds go to seed, it'll sure cut back on them spreading.

.................Buckshot

carpetman
06-16-2005, 01:38 AM
Scrounger---go to www.johndeere.com and you can get a 500 hp tractor on tracks. Shouldn't have to worry about it getting stuck and should have plenty of power. You can get an air conditioned cab and they start at only $273,000. Will make others really seem cheap---heck you might buy two.

Shepherd2
06-16-2005, 09:03 AM
Scrounger - Those scraper blades don't work on hard packed ground no matter how many horse power you have. A lot of people buy them and think they have a bulldozer then they find out they will only pull loose material. My "big" tractor is 58 HP and a heavy 6' blade just bounces on the ground. A disc works fine for what you want to do but it has to have some weight. Buckshot probably added about 300 lbs to the weight of his neighbors disc and that gave it the bite it needed. Most of the smaller agricultural disc have a rack on top to add steel weights, concrete block, rocks etc. to give them more weight. Once the soil is loose you can grade it easily with the blade.

I don't know how much area you want to level but if it something you may only have to do once you might want to think about renting the equipment you need and then buying a smaller tractor to maintain it. If you go to Deere, New Holland, Kubota etc. you may get a severe cased of sticker shock. You can buy a nice pickup for what some of those small tractors cost.

fourarmed
06-16-2005, 09:43 AM
If you live in farm country, start haunting the farm sales and estate sales. Often a farmer will have a small, older tractor of the 2- to 4-row persuasion (with some equipment for it) that is used for the less horsepower-intensive jobs. These are not as cheap as they used to be, exactly because of buyers like yourself, but they are a lot cheaper than anything new in their class. If you get a bush hog, a plow, a disc, and maybe a blade and posthole digger, you are in business. A 3-point hitch is almost a necessity, but they can be retrofitted on most tractors if you get a really good deal on one without it.

Scrounger
06-16-2005, 09:51 AM
Scrounger - Those scraper blades don't work on hard packed ground no matter how many horse power you have. A lot of people buy them and think they have a bulldozer then they find out they will only pull loose material. My "big" tractor is 58 HP and a heavy 6' blade just bounces on the ground. A disc works fine for what you want to do but it has to have some weight. Buckshot probably added about 300 lbs to the weight of his neighbors disc and that gave it the bite it needed. Most of the smaller agricultural disc have a rack on top to add steel weights, concrete block, rocks etc. to give them more weight. Once the soil is loose you can grade it easily with the blade.

I don't know how much area you want to level but if it something you may only have to do once you might want to think about renting the equipment you need and then buying a smaller tractor to maintain it. If you go to Deere, New Holland, Kubota etc. you may get a severe cased of sticker shock. You can buy a nice pickup for what some of those small tractors cost.

That is what I'm finding out. Speaking of pickups; sometime ago someone came up with the idea of making a 'sled' to tow around with my pickup that would do a pretty good job. That would work. I was thinking of just using a wooden pallet, driving some nails in it, putting weight on it. Another thought was a piece of heavy duty wire fence with weights attached. And I'm leaning heavy toward getting an ATV. That would do the towing part and there is a scraper blade available for light earth moving. AND my nephew's kids would run the wheels off it for me.

Scrounger
06-16-2005, 09:54 AM
If you live in farm country, start haunting the farm sales and estate sales. Often a farmer will have a small, older tractor of the 2- to 4-row persuasion (with some equipment for it) that is used for the less horsepower-intensive jobs. These are not as cheap as they used to be, exactly because of buyers like yourself, but they are a lot cheaper than anything new in their class. If you get a bush hog, a plow, a disc, and maybe a blade and posthole digger, you are in business. A 3-point hitch is almost a necessity, but they can be retrofitted on most tractors if you get a really good deal on one without it.

I know price will vary but what would an outfit like that run?

wills
06-16-2005, 10:28 AM
That is what I'm finding out. Speaking of pickups; sometime ago someone came up with the idea of making a 'sled' to tow around with my pickup that would do a pretty good job. That would work. I was thinking of just using a wooden pallet, driving some nails in it, putting weight on it. Another thought was a piece of heavy duty wire fence with weights attached. And I'm leaning heavy toward getting an ATV. That would do the towing part and there is a scraper blade available for light earth moving. AND my nephew's kids would run the wheels off it for me.
Use those kids to do the towing! That’ll run some of the energy off ‘em, & they’ll earn their keep.

wills
06-16-2005, 10:30 AM
I know price will vary but what would an outfit like that run?

That is about what I'm looking for too. SWMBO's cousin (who ranches for real) advises if I dont get one with a front end loader I will wind up wishing I had.

Why am I never interested in something cheap?

http://www.wctractor.com/used_tractors.htm

Slowpoke
06-16-2005, 10:39 AM
That is what I'm finding out. Speaking of pickups; sometime ago someone came up with the idea of making a 'sled' to tow around with my pickup that would do a pretty good job. That would work. I was thinking of just using a wooden pallet, driving some nails in it, putting weight on it. Another thought was a piece of heavy duty wire fence with weights attached. And I'm leaning heavy toward getting an ATV. That would do the towing part and there is a scraper blade available for light earth moving. AND my nephew's kids would run the wheels off it for me.

A chunk of railroad iron makes a excellent drag. works good behind a ATV, more manuverable in tight spots than a pickup.

Every time you see new weeds starting to emerge, then start dragging. You have to get them while the root is shallow and small.

Works good on small acreage in arid country, then just spray or weed whack the tight spots.

If your ground is not real rocky, a small Bobcat or tractor with a bucket works well also by going backwards and dragging the front edge of the bucket with hydraulic down pressure on it. ( Rent one for a day or two) Get one without the ripper teeth on the bucket.

The best set up is a small 4 WD utility tractor with a hydraulic controlled grader box on the back complete with rippers and a 4 in 1 bucket on the front. (Rent one for a day or two)

It makes the work almost fun if you don't have to do it everyday.

Good luck

grumble
06-16-2005, 12:20 PM
Good comments by all.

It really doesn't matter what you get, though, it will either be too big or too small for whatever job you have in mind. <GGG>

Will's comment about the front bucket is especially appropriate. It is about the handiest thing you can have around, to use as a forklift, brush hauler, driveway leveller, and occasionally, even as a bucket. You'll need a PTO and 3-point if you plan to use an auger or brushhog. I also wouldn't even consider a small tractor without 4WD. On very hard or soft ground, those back wheels will just spin, and if you ever need to clear some snow or pull the UPS truck out of the mud, a 2WD tractor gets stuck real easy.

Those Chinese imports are pretty good for the money. You'll be looking at about $12K, new. Parts are real easy to get (through Northern Tools) and not outrageously expensive like domestic tractor parts are. Or, you can go double or triple the cost for an American or Japanese tractor.

For a couple years I used a trailer tounge from a mobil home as a drag and snow pusher. Works pretty good so long as you have room to turn around.

You can go ahead with "make-do" methods, like things to drag behind your truck or ATV, but sooner or later you'll need an actual tractor, and they won't be any cheaper when that happens. As was mentioned, if you need something bigger, you can always rent something for a couple days to get the job worked down to something the size your tractor can handle. Once you have a tractor, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it.

Scrounger
06-16-2005, 12:51 PM
I tell you, there's just too dang many thoughts go through my head every day. Sure wish some of them were useful. Perchance, does anyone make a scraper blade or box that attaches to my Nissan? Sounds like a good idea. If no one does it, they should...

Jumptrap
06-16-2005, 03:14 PM
Scrounger,

It's always easy for the rest of us to spend your money.....only you know what you want to pay. I'll tell you this, you ain't going to get by cheap. I don't claim to be an expert, so write that off here and now. But, I have owned 5 honest tractors over the years and everytime I trade, I get a bigger one. This last one is 64 horses and 4 wd and I bought a FEL too. The one I had before was 37 hp and 2 wd and it did very well. These machines are/were JD's. I had an ol' Johnny Popper Deere a few years ago and I thought it was a POS. I also had an old Allis-Chalmers and it was a good machine for what it was....i think it was about 28 hp...same as the old '59 Deere. Somewhere in the progression I had a damned Jap brand...forget the name of it (after trying real hard to do so). I think Mitsubishi made it..oh yeah, it was a Satoh. I bought it just to mow with and wasn't worth a damn.

Starmetal Joe was in the market until his wife said he couldn't have one, and I told him what I thought he should look for. So, I'll tell you the same thing.

Try to buy something made in the last 25-30 years....you're going to need parts sooner or later. Best to get a diesel and you'll find few gas tractors made in the last 30 years. Figure what size you want and then get one size bigger......don't skimp this advice. make sure it has 'live power' or independent power for the PTO. This is a 2 stage clutch so you can stop the tractor while the implement keeps running (live power). Independent power has it's own clutch packs seperate from the drive clutch. Get wet brakes and clutch if possible...they last 10x longer because they run in oil. By all means get power steering. 4 wd is nice but necessary. I would get something at least 35 hp and 50 ain't too many. Run from these toy tractors and by all means any of the Chinese shit. The Chinese will someday make quality tractors, they just ain't there yet. I'm not anti Jap tractor as the Kubotas and all the small Deere's were built by Yanmar for years and they are excellent. I hear you say you're an old fart, but don't pretend you're going to die tomorrow so might as well not spend too much. That tractor will become your right arm and best friend. You will wonder how you got by without it. A boom pole on the rear will let you lift anything heavy, a scoop bucket will let you dig and haul lots of dirt, a bushhog will do away with your stubble problems and on and on......depending on what you buy to hook onto. If you get a front end loader, you can use it for most everything. Good models to look for in the older 'good stuff' catagory are: JD models, 830, 1020, 2040, 2240, and 2155. I don't like Fergusons but the 245 ain't bad. I wouldn't walk across the road for a free Ford. International (Farmall) made some excellent machines but I ain't up on their model numbers. The rest is up to you but I figure you'll spend $5,000-$7,500 for a good machine. I paid $32,000 for my last one....just depends on what you want/need.

Scrounger
06-16-2005, 06:21 PM
Thanks for your learned opinion, Jump, and also all the rest of you who came up with good ideas and sage advice. I've decided it's time to quit chasing that wild horse and call a taxi. Without spending a lot more money than the problem is worth, there is no reasonable solution to the problem. You buy a small tractor, it's not big enough to do the job. You buy one that could do it, it costs way too much money for using 3 or 4 times a year. So I think just renting a good one for half a day once or twice a year, if I time it right will work out fine.

mroliver77
06-16-2005, 07:59 PM
I am not real sure how much tractor you need but around here you can pick up a decent farmall H model with a bucket for $500 - $2500. As jump mentioned the do not have the "live"pto but the world got along for years without it. My friend bought a 720 Case with bucket and 3pnt hitch for $1200 a couple years back and had to put new seals in the rams on the bucket. Fellow I used to work for scrapping has an H we put a 30,000 lb winch on the back coupled with sprockets and a three speed ford truck tranny and a roll cage and 20' boom on the rear. We did a lot of work with that old tractor.This other scrapper borrowed it one day to pull a 2 ton ford grain truck out of a wet area. When he hot there a neighbor had arrived with a large newer JD tractor to pull the truck out. They laughed at the H model and our "hillbilly" engineering. Funny thing was the JD couldnt budge it. He chained the bucket to a tree ang rolled out 100' of 5/8" cable and hooked it up dropped the winch in low and let the cluthch out. He said it pulled the truck and a 4" tree that had grown through the frame and the swamp all to the roadside.(I seen evidence of all but the swamp) I asked what the farmers with the bigf JD said. NOTHING.hehe I dont know how handy you are but with a torch and welder and a tractor supply store close by I can turn just about any automobile or truck into a farm implement. Jay

Jumptrap
06-17-2005, 09:49 AM
Mr.Oliver,

would you please email me at jumptrap58 at wmconnect dot com? We need to talk tractors and stuff! especially Olivers.

fourarmed
06-17-2005, 10:42 AM
Friend of mine recently bought a '52 H Farmall with an aftermarket 3-point and a slew of equipment for just a little over a thou. That was a great deal, and you would not get one like it unless you got out in the boonies and asked around. If you live near a city, even the 8N and 9N Fords go for over a thousand in about any shape. I grew up farming with Fords, and I wouldn't go for anything older or smaller than the 860 series. Personally, I would steer clear of tricycle types, too. I drool over 3020 JDs.

felix
06-17-2005, 11:20 AM
With so many college kids out of work, or can't find real work after graduation, it seems to me it would be cheaper to just hire the job out. Especially, if this is a 4 times per year operation. ... felix

Shepherd2
06-17-2005, 11:54 AM
Fourarmed - I live in Ford/New Holland country and 8 & 9N Fords bring a lot more than $1000, even in pitiful condition. I've got an NAA Ford Jubilee in nice shape that the NH dealer offered me $4500 for about 5 years ago. I was in there yesterday picking up a Bush Hog part and he asked again if I was ready to sell yet. Told him I plan to sell this farm when I hit 75 and buy a smaller place so I'll need to keep the Jubilee.

I wouldn't recommed a tricycle tractor to anyone. Too dangerous. In these steep hills I have enough trouble keeping my wide front tractors upright.

At farm auctions around here the small tractors bring the better prices. There are lots more buyers for small tractors.

Chuck

Jumptrap
06-17-2005, 04:17 PM
Scrounger,

Your idea of renting a machine to do your odd work is probably the best, especially if you have nothing else to use a tractor for. They are like anything else, if you NEED one, buy one. If you really don't have a regular use, then no need in tying your money up in something that sits most of the time. But trust me, if you ever own a tractor, you'll find your self using it a lot. I don't have anybody to help me do anything and therefore, the machine has become my right hand. Is it worth the expenditure? Depends on how you look at it. If your profession is accounting and professional beancounter, NO. Precious little we allow ourselves beyond food and raiment can be justified in dollars and cents. However, if you enjoy your independence or just can't find anybody to help you do certain chores, a machine allows you to do things you can't by yourself......whether your fat and lazy like me or just getting too damned old and feeble to work like a mule any longer!!! Sometimes I have to move dirt, but a shovel doesn't fit my hands. A rear scoop or FEL takes care of that chore. I mow 2+ acres of lawn every week and i tried it before with a big riding lawnmower. By time I got done, where I started had already began to grow back...hehehe! I never use a hoe in the garden as the cultivators get 4 hours of chopping done in about 20 minutes. The list goes on and on and it doesn't require a new tractor to do this stuff, just a good one.

cabezaverde
06-17-2005, 08:12 PM
We live on 11 acres, lot's of driveway (800 feet), and snow up the wazoo in the winter. Also mow about 8 acres in summer. Could not get along without mine.

My International 464 has a loader, indispensable for the snow and generally picking stuff up. To me, the ideal tractor for this type of place is 40 - 60 HP. Loader is great, other attachments as needed. Look at flail mowers before you commit to a bush hog.

Also, seriously consider a diesel. A lot of ugly tractors are mechanically sound. Buy for function, not looks.

Scrounger
06-17-2005, 08:29 PM
http://www.tractordata.com/td/td335.html

Bret4207
06-18-2005, 07:21 AM
I pretty much agree with what Jump said. I wouldn go back a bit gurther to the mid 60's range. I would NOT under any circumstances buy a 2n/9n/8n/NAA Ford. Absolutley the most over rated tractor out there. The Hundred series is a bit better, I have an 800 and it's adequite for some things. I also have a Cocshutt 30 with live PTO and 2/3 the HP of the Ford. Even with the narrow frot end it's a better tractor for anything but 3 pt work. Case made excellant tractors as did Deere, IH and some MF. I'd stay away from the idea of buying an ATV and "letting the kids do it". I've picked up more dead kids from under ATV's in the past few years than out of cars. One of the 6 wheel jobs might be ok, but the 4 wheelers tend to turn into racing machines and lead to death. Just my opinion, but I won't own one.

Jumptrap
06-18-2005, 08:32 AM
I also have a Cocshutt 30 with live PTO and 2/3 the HP of the Ford. Even with the narrow frot end it's a better tractor for anything but 3 pt work.

Brett,

I'd like to see a picture of that Cockshutt!

Scrounger
06-18-2005, 12:45 PM
You guys!!! You got me thinking about tractors even though I've already figured out I don't have enough use for one to spend $15,000 on it. But when I went to the grocery store this morning, I passed a little lot that had 3 or 4 tractors for sale on it. Really neat. The brand is Mahrinda or something like that... One model was #104, he said it cost $13,000. But he also had a #108 that had only 230 hours on the clock for $14,000. Both were deisel, both were 4 wheel drive, came with canopy, a bucket on front, and some kind of leveler or spreader on the rear. I about got a woodie just looking at them. I've already admitted I don't NEED it, but truth is, it fascinates me more than a new rifle right now. He said one fellow that bought a #108 from him thought he might pick up some extra money from the neighbors using the tractor. At $50 an hour he can't even get time to eat dinner anymore. There are NO used tractors available here. So here is a list of questions for you:
1. Are the above prices good?
2. I think if I decided to sell it in 2 or 3 years, I'd get most of my money back. What do you think?
3. I have no experience; I'm very good with cars and trucks; will I learn to use that easily?
4. Any other thoughts?
5. Do you have the telephone number for Tractor Lovers Anonymous?

carpetman
06-18-2005, 03:42 PM
Scrounger as a non experienced tractor operator,you'll have to be careful you don't get it stuck in reverse and unplow 10 acres. Create more work than you started with.

Jumptrap
06-18-2005, 03:56 PM
Art,

From what I understand, the Mahindra tractors (Made in India) are fine machines and are actually an older IHC design that Mahindra builds for mainly other markets worldwide. I believe they have heavy US investments. Furthermore, the JD 5105 tractors are Indian built and the Indians also make many of the castings JD uses in other models. Remember also that the Indians are a former British colony and their heavy industry got it's start with UK heritage. Then too, they are a nuclear power and supply 99% of all US doctors nowadays..hehe! Point being, they are very capable tractor makers and I would have looked at them, had there been a local dealer within 100 miles of here. As for getting your money back.....maybe. I bought my last tractor for $6800 22 years ago, kept all the equipment and sold it for $5000 about 6-8 weeks ago. Go figure. If you can start the machine, you can learn to run it, just be damned careful. I'd say if you can get a mahindra 45+ HP tractor with 4 wd, FEL and a canopy for $15K, you're getting an excellent value. It'll last longer than you expect to use it, I promise. I am not aware of any reliability issues either. Go for it.


You guys!!! You got me thinking about tractors even though I've already figured out I don't have enough use for one to spend $15,000 on it. But when I went to the grocery store this morning, I passed a little lot that had 3 or 4 tractors for sale on it. Really neat. The brand is Mahrinda or something like that... One model was #104, he said it cost $13,000. But he also had a #108 that had only 230 hours on the clock for $14,000. Both were deisel, both were 4 wheel drive, came with canopy, a bucket on front, and some kind of leveler or spreader on the rear. I about got a woodie just looking at them. I've already admitted I don't NEED it, but truth is, it fascinates me more than a new rifle right now. He said one fellow that bought a #108 from him thought he might pick up some extra money from the neighbors using the tractor. At $50 an hour he can't even get time to eat dinner anymore. There are NO used tractors available here. So here is a list of questions for you:
1. Are the above prices good?
2. I think if I decided to sell it in 2 or 3 years, I'd get most of my money back. What do you think?
3. I have no experience; I'm very good with cars and trucks; will I learn to use that easily?
4. Any other thoughts?
5. Do you have the telephone number for Tractor Lovers Anonymous?

carpetman
06-18-2005, 04:04 PM
Hey Jump---Was wondering if you bought a tractor made in India would you keep it in a barn or in a motel?

Scrounger
06-18-2005, 04:33 PM
Hey Jump---Was wondering if you bought a tractor made in India would you keep it in a barn or in a motel?

Dumb question. If you buy a tractor from India, you just leave it in your front yard and it opens a 7/11 and makes you rich....

StarMetal
06-18-2005, 04:36 PM
Art

No, it gets a doctors degree and become your physician. Either that or it works as an on the phone Dell Computor technician.

Joe

Scrounger
06-18-2005, 04:39 PM
My understanding from the guy they were in the 20-25 Horsepower range, but they were deisel and did have 4 wheel drive which made up for the lower horsepower. Sound reasdonable?

Scrounger
06-18-2005, 04:40 PM
Scrounger as a non experienced tractor operator,you'll have to be careful you don't get it stuck in reverse and unplow 10 acres. Create more work than you started with.

Careful there, cat hunter, or I'll run over that "tiny" pickup of yours...

wills
06-18-2005, 08:40 PM
Try this

http://www.tractorbynet.com/

Bret4207
06-19-2005, 06:54 AM
Art I PM'd you. No, 4wd doesn't make up for HP entirely. It helps, but traction needs weight to work and HP to handle the traction, if you follow. If you want to get into light landscaping type work, which for lack of a better term is what it sounds like, I'd feel better with 35-45HP AND 4WD if possible. If on the other hand your going to be tilling gardens and maybe brush hogging fields then 4WD not needed so much. Really kind of need to know just what it is you want to do. As far as "Can I handle it?" Well, I'm a certified idiot in most respects and I can operate equipment. It just may take me 5 passes whereas a real operator can do it in 1. You learn as you go. If you plan on getting into septic lines and foundations you are looking at the wrong kind of tractor.

Jump- The Cockshutt 30 is, IMHO, the finest example of post war agricultural styling. Art Deco in a field if you take my drift. However, my personal example is more Sanford and Son than Rembrandt. It's got the LPTO, standard seat, 2 speed, narrow front. It also has an aftermarket Propane coversion. If it was a factory propane I'd have sold it and been able to buy another 30, a 40 and a 50 Cockshutt AND the 1655 Oliver or Ford 5000 I really want. Give me few years and it'll be bright red with cream accents as God intended. Until then it's rust and flapping sheet metal. I went up to Kanada, Ontario and picked up the LPTO assy and a hood, gas tank and carb a few weeks ago. Put the LPTO on and it wouldn't lock into over center. Must be all the oil thrashing around in there loosened something up because Friday I happened to walk by it and pulled the handle. Whammo- she over centered and works fine now. I gotta adjust the brakes and fix a few other things so I can run my haybine with this machine. I may try the baler (NH 68) to as the 30 has way more speeds than my 800 Ford non-lpto. We have some hills so I have to see how the brakes work out. Ain't farmin' fun?!

Scrounger
06-19-2005, 07:10 AM
There is a little need and a whole lot of want. I don't have enough use for it to justify any money on it but this is a whole new field of "toys" for me to play with. I'll probably run around wishing and annoying everybody, and in the end, buy nothing. But one of them would sure be entertaining for a while...

carpetman
06-19-2005, 07:58 AM
Tpr.Brett---You are most correct in that there is a big difference in how well some can operate a tractor vs others. I have a brother in law that bought a backhoe in 1968 and it was the perfect marriage. Instantly he had the bucket working like it was an extension of his hand. Never a wasted stroke. Even in tight places he could operate it with the engine at full rpm. Overnight he had the reputation as the best in town. He has made a very good living with them. He is now past 70 and still doing it---guess he enjoys them as he has the money. He still has several customers from 1968 when he started. His first machine was I think $8600 and his last was like $60,000 all his have been Case. They have the swing operated with foot pedals.

StarMetal
06-19-2005, 09:02 AM
Art,

Jumptrap and I talked at lenght over the phone about tractors as I need one also. I have a little 7 acre farm in the mtns and have two pasture I have to bush hog. We were kind of straddled for cash when we first bought the place and I ended up buying a pull behind brush hog for my Suzuki 4 wheeler that I already owned. It's 42 inch cut with an eleven hp Honda engine on it and it does an ok job. By ok I mean the heavy crabgrass clumps tend to bend the blade spindle up and then the cutting goes to hell. If it wasn't for that it does half decent, but I'm looking to get a tractor. Think hard before you do because like my wife tells me I don't need a tractor for something I only do twice a season. It's getting to be too much for the little 4wheeler and to give you an idea when I finish cutting the fields I have over 20 miles on the 4wheeler and that's when it's in 4 wheel drive LOW RANGE second gear!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Joe

Jumptrap
06-19-2005, 07:19 PM
Jump- The Cockshutt 30 is, IMHO, the finest example of post war agricultural styling. Art Deco in a field if you take my drift. However, my personal example is more Sanford and Son than Rembrandt. It's got the LPTO, standard seat, 2 speed, narrow front. It also has an aftermarket Propane coversion. If it was a factory propane I'd have sold it and been able to buy another 30, a 40 and a 50 Cockshutt AND the 1655 Oliver or Ford 5000 I really want. Give me few years and it'll be bright red with cream accents as God intended. Until then it's rust and flapping sheet metal.

Bret,The Cockshutt is an Oliver in disguise as you well know. The first 'vehicle' I ever drove was my uncle's '46 Oliver RC 60. Dad still has the carcass of that tractor and I'd like to restore it, but he won't let go of it. I'd like to have a RC 60 and a RC 70. They are dinosaurs.....nothing but a PTO, no lift, ps, etc. But like you say....art deco to the max. I prefer Oliver green to JD green but those red wheels suck.

floodgate
06-19-2005, 10:02 PM
I'm not into tractors; I can barely keep up with the two (fly-)wheels on the 1917 Fairbanks-Morse "Headless" hit-'n'-miss I am restoring, let alone three or four. But our group, the "Kimmies of the Codgy Moshe" in the local Boont-ling dialect ("Old Machinery Guys" in Brightlighter-speak) have a John Deere "D" we are trying to peddle as-is. Ninety percent restored, BUT...! We had gotten a new radiator and a new-used cylinder barrel to replace the one with the freeze cracks, tightened the rod bearings to specs, installed new rings and gaskets, ground in and set the valves and timing, reassembled the whole front end, oiled, gassed and greased it, hooked up the tow-rope to the Case and set up for a pull-start. "BANG!!!" "I thought you tightened the cylinder base-studs". "I thought YOU had." "I thought George had checked it over." "Not me; I thought Ed was gonna do it." "Oh, Hell; nobody did it." So there it sits, and nobody wants to face tearing the whole front end down all over again. So we just posted it with one of the Tractor-Traders.

floodgate

Bret4207
06-20-2005, 01:25 PM
Jump- My Cockshutt is one of the non- Oliver series. The Cocoshutt 20, 30,40,50 and 35 were strictly Candian Cockshutt in design. The earlier model 60 and 70's were Ollie as were some of the later 1960's tractors. The Candian jobs were run from about 1948 till the mid 50's. Nice tractors with Buda engines built in Brampton outside Toronto.

DOUBLEJK
06-22-2005, 02:15 PM
Scrounger
This is probably more n ya need but it's real nice ta use...:-)

http://www.geocities.com/doublejk2/PapanAllyntractor.jpg

Thats my oldest Grand Daughter helpin' me haul dirt in an ole BeeGee scraper ta backfill the foundation ta our new house...
1 of only 2 new tractors I've owned my whole farmin' life...
It's a 2004 Case JX95 with all the bells n whistles....ac am/fm/cd 4X4 etc.....
Don't know how I got all the werk done before without it....
Definently not in the same degree a comfert fer sure....;-)

Frank46
06-24-2005, 02:10 AM
Here in louisiana grass cutting is a way of life. I have approx 4.5 acres and use a sears 23hp riding mower. My best buddy keeps riding me about getting a real tractor with a finish cut bush hog and about 25hp. This has been an ongoing goof between us for the last five years or so. Me and the wife are driving home yesterday and I mention tractor to her. What the heck do you need a tractor for she says. Cut the grass says I. Anyway small diesel tractors down here with a finish cut brush hog in the 25hp range go for about $3000 3500 when and if you can find one in decent shape. My last sears riding lawn mower lasted 5 years. Tranny went flooey. Ah well one of these days. Regards Frank