Patch Lube

[brad925]

Anybody got any recipes? Wondering if bottle of liquid Alox i got with a sizing die for my 45-70 cast boolits would work for that. Or maybe my other home made boolit lube.

[wgr]

alox does,nt work well with bp

[missionary5155]

God morning
For many years I have used olive oil & beeswax in varying combinations (50-50 is the basic starting point) for all my BP shooting. Never has failed, tastes great, many other usages & is the ONLY lube my #1 wife will permit me to make & use in the house.
Mike in Peru

[Nappers]

I use a brand called 3 Rivers from a store in Oregon. Good stuff, it's a great patch lube and a solvent to clean.

The below is taken from Muzzleloading forum who brings this site up quite a bit. Never used it but a lot of people use it.


Stumpy's Moose Juice

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated if available) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

[Nobade]

olive oil/beeswax for hunting, spit for the range in small calibers, moose milk for the 12 bore at the range. (ain't got enough spit for those big patches!)

[Maven]

Brad925, I've made and used "Stumpy's Moose Snot" (recipe in post #4), but substituted olive oil for the specified castor oil (hard to get locally). I'm happy to say that it works very well. Btw, it is very easy to make.

[KCSO]

Best I have found is Bear oil and bees wax or in the winter straight bear oil. First you get you a bear... second is sheeps tallow. In case you wonder we do our own meat. I render out my own salt free lard from hoog, bear and do sheep tallow. Tallow was the old Dixie ZIP lube. I still have a couple cans of sperm oil but i am lothe to use it as it is so rare.

[P.K.]

Quick and easy patch lube, 50-50% Murphy's oil soap and tap water. AKA "Moose Milk."

[waksupi]

Quick and easy patch lube, 50-50% Murphy's oil soap and tap water. AKA "Moose Milk."

This is the first time I recall seeing Murphy's used in Moose Milk. Doesn't it gum the bore a bit?

[hobbles]

50/50 mix (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/hobbles/huntin/patchlube.jpg) most times, 60/40 others..
Sometimes I just use the GoJo. Even with the mixture it cleans the barrel when loadin the next load. I'm lazy..

[waksupi]

I've used Goop too, it did seem to work ok. I guess I should have mentioned, I use water soluble oil, and water for my Moose Milk. Ballistol and water also works. I went to the Dutch Schultz method of patch lubing for hunting. Saturate the patches with the Moose Milk, and let dry. This way you can leave the rifle loaded, just as you can if you use any other oil based lube.

[P.K.]

This is the first time I recall seeing Murphy's used in Moose Milk. Doesn't it gum the bore a bit?

Not too badly, at least with a patched ball which is all I've ever used it on. Of course the few times I have used it was on the range. Push ball, cut patch cap and fire. Swab and repeat. Too much of a good thing in this case will cause a hang fire or worse, digging out the auger to pull the ball. Then you have the "gum" to clean out. BTDT. [smilie=b:

[daschnoz]

I use Emmerts Lube. Mix it 45/45/10

[Maven]

"I went to the Dutch Schultz method of patch lubing for hunting. Saturate the patches with the Moose Milk, and let dry...." Waksupi

Two comments on lubes, with Dutch Schoultz' method first. (1) I e-mailed Mr. Schoultz about water soluble machining oil several years ago and he replied that he no longer recommends using it: It contains too many "unfriendly" additives now. Rather, he currently recommends Ballistol and water at the same dilution(s) as with WSMO. (2) Several members of the American Longrifle site also questioned the use of Murphy's Oil Soap as a patch lube ingredient. They too thought it might gum up the bore and a few found that it left hard to remove deposits there. Interestingly enough, Dixie used to sell "Old Slickum" patch lube, which looks and smells suspiciously like MOS. I've used Old Slickum and found that it worked very well. However, I'd be leery of using liquid lubes in freezing weather or when hunting, i.e., when a patched RB is left atop the powder charge for more than a few minutes.

[P.K.]

"I went to the Dutch Schultz method of patch lubing for hunting. Saturate the patches with the Moose Milk, and let dry...." Waksupi

Two comments on lubes, with Dutch Schoult'z method first. (1) I e-mailed Mr. Schoultz about water soluble machining oil several years ago and he replied that he no longer recommends using it: It contains too many "unfriendly" additives now. Rather, he currently recommends Ballistol and water at the same dilution(s) as with WSMO. (2) Several members of the American Longrifle site also questioned the use of Murphy's Oil Soap as a patch lube ingredient. They too thought it might gum up the bore and a few found that it left hard to remove deposits there. Interestingly enough, Dixie used to sell "Old Slickum" patch lube, which looks and smells suspiciously like MOS. I've used Old Slickum and found that it worked very well. However, I'd be leery of using liquid lubes in freezing weather or when hunting, i.e., when a patched RB is left atop the powder charge for more than a few minutes.

Great point, I was going to revise my post but since you mentioned it first, it's all yours. My recipie was only used in warm weather. In colder wx I use bore butter on pre cut patches since the BB in those temps has the consistancy of solid deoderant one could use an old container of deoderant for this purpose too. I keep one of the little travel size sticks in my kit. Simply warm up a few table spoons of BB on the stove and pour the liquid into the clean and reset deoderant stick container.

[Pigslayer]

Try "Old Zip Patch Grease" from Dixie Gun Works. Made from Mutton Tallow & Beeswax. I love it! I've tried others including Bore Butter. The BB worked but I really wasn't impressed with it in cold weather.
Try some "Old Zip Patch Grease". I think you'll be pleased.

[Maven]

No problem at all, P.K.! Two additional lube ideas: If you can get deer tallow, try it. I obtained some from one of our members and mixed up some with a a few tablespoons of liniment (with oil of wintergreen) so that it would smell like yellow Bore Butter. It works very well. However, you want to add the oiniment or oil of wintergreen to the cold deer tallow and THEN slowly melt them together. You'll understand why this way is better than the reverse if you've done it! The second one is from the ML Forum: A member there claims that Liquid Wrench is an excellent patch lube. I bought a small bottle last week, but haven't yet tried it and probably won't for a couple of weeks. Maybe one of you will try it and let us know how it works?

[izzyjoe]

i've heard deer tallow works great, and olive oil.

[Tom-ADC]

Bore Butter or Wonder Lube.

[waksupi]

I've been looking for my old notes, and am still searching. Some years ago, I used up a summer trying out different lubes. I tested probably a dozen of old recommendations, and some new things.

I do recall whale oil, for all it's hype, would foul a barrel badly after about 10 shots. It's winning point, was it was non-drying. But, it would leave smouldering patches regularly.

Vaseline hand lotion, was around 12 shots before the barrel was fouled.

Bore Butter in cold winter could bring shooting to a dead stop after about 8 rounds. Goop hand cleaner was good for 15-20 shots, before I would start getting fouling in the lower part of the barrel. Also left smouldering patches.

Any lubes that we know to leave smouldering patches are banned from our shooting ranges, due to usual high fire danger.

I know I tested at least a dozen different things, and as I say, I am still looking for the paperwork on them. I do know that moose milk, with the old water soluble oil came way out on top.

[Flinchrock]

Ballistol and water 7/1 for range practice,,,Trappers Mink oil from TOW for woods work,,,Check your POA/POI when changing from liquid to grease, things change!

I bought some "Bumblin' Bear Grease" from October Country, but havent had time to try it yet, it feels promising. Also managed to come by a pint of plain bear oil, haven't played with it yet either.

I have been very pleased with the first two,,,and have used them for years, but I like to experiment,,mebbe if I only find the perfect lube, all of the shots will go into one hole at 200 yds! yeah, you betcha....

Been thinkin" about adding a little kerosene to the ballistol/water mix,,,for no particular reason.

That fellow over on the ML forum seems to really like his liquid wrench, guess I'll try that too. Did I say that I like to experiment??

[ArchAngelCD]

It seems that this thread is about home made lubes and not bought lubes. If you are also considering bought products I like T/C Natural Lube 1000 Plus Bore Butter.

[Nappers]

It seems that this thread is about home made lubes and not bought lubes. If you are also considering bought products I like T/C Natural Lube 1000 Plus Bore Butter.

I use 3 Rivers solvent/patch lube from The Gun Works in Eugene Oregon

[7of7]

anyone ever try Johnsons Paste wax as lube? or Alox? or a mixture of both?

[P.K.]

anyone ever try Johnsons Paste wax as lube? or Alox? or a mixture of both?

Sombody on here uses Alox for his REAL's but I haven't heard of it being used on patches. Don't see why not.

[docone31]

You can use just plain Crisco, or Beeswax/Olive oil, 50/50 or there abouts.
I use the Beeswax/Olive oil. To stiffen it up, I add Crisco. So far, great.
A little Beeswax, goes a long way. I bought a 5lb cake, and I have 4.5 lbs left.
It will keep though.
I have used Olive oil, vegetable oil, Carnuba oil. They all work well.
Clean up is a snap.

[P.K.]

You can use just plain Crisco, or Beeswax/Olive oil, 50/50 or there abouts.
I use the Beeswax/Olive oil. To stiffen it up, I add Crisco. So far, great.
A little Beeswax, goes a long way. I bought a 5lb cake, and I have 4.5 lbs left.
It will keep though.
I have used Olive oil, vegetable oil, Carnuba oil. They all work well.
Clean up is a snap.

Might as well add Coppertone etc. Back in the day bacon greese was used too. Dunno why bear/deer/antelope/elk tallow can't be used either. (I'm sure it was. Trying to make a point. Flame away.)

[7of7]

Might as well add Coppertone etc. Back in the day bacon greese was used too. Dunno why bear/deer/antelope/elk tallow can't be used either. (I'm sure it was. Trying to make a point. Flame away.)

Didn't think about the Coppertone...May have to give it a try, since I have some that won't be used... since I live in Washington.. LOL

So, from what I am reading, just about anything will work.. some better than others.. so what stuff should really be avoided?

[Alan]

Petroleum products with the exception of Vaseline and canning paraffin should be avoided. The residue is literally asphalt.

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

3 parts rendered venison tallow to 1 part bees wax , it has many uses , patch lube or conical lube is one of them can't tell you how many you can load between wiping , i wipe after every shot when sighting in , as i set the sights for the first shot from a clean barrel for hunting


for the range , 1/3 rubbing alcohol , 1/3 hydrogen peroxide 1/3 Murphy oil soap mix and put in a small dark colored spray bottle
wally world sells the hydrogen peroxide in a 8 oz sprat bottle that is brown plastic this is a good bottle for this

20 plus loads , each as easy to push down the barrel as the last one , we use this for 4h muzzle loader competition shooting where the difference of wiping once between shots and not between other shots is enough to cost you points , it is very consistent

[brad925]

Thanks for all the ideas. I am just gettiung back into muzzle loaders after 15yrs so some of the things i used then are not around anymore. I used to use a product called Spit Patch. I would take a chewing tobacco can and cut a piece of felt from a boot liner and put in it then soak it with spit patch. Then you just pressed your patch into it at the range. Cant find that stuff here anymore.

[7of7]

Petroleum products with the exception of Vaseline and canning paraffin should be avoided. The residue is literally asphalt.

Thanks Alan!!!
I didn't realize that about the petroleum products. It is good to make note of..

[MBTcustom]

Whats wrong with regular saliva? I was using the "suck on a strip of cloth" method and it seamed to be working realy well at the range, but I have no idea how well it would work after sitting in the bore for 5 hours.

[Alan]

Saliva works great for the target range. Actually, it is usually the very best there is. It just dries me out. I usually use Hoppes #9 Plus or olive oil.

If you are going to leave it loaded for a few hours, as in hunting, saliva will rust the bore.

[7of7]

I did some comparing over the weekend:
Corbin's Swage Lube, JPW, Olive oil..

The swage lube seemed to work the best for fouling reduction.
JPW was also good however not as effective as the swage lube
Olive oil came in last.. had to swab the barrel every other shot in order to be able to load fairly easy..

Next weekend:
Crisco/Olive oil mix.. (have quite a few pre-lubed with olive oil... just adding crisco..
more swage lube..

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Try "Old Zip Patch Grease" from Dixie Gun Works. Made from Mutton Tallow & Beeswax. I love it! I've tried others including Bore Butter. The BB worked but I really wasn't impressed with it in cold weather.
Try some "Old Zip Patch Grease". I think you'll be pleased.

A few days ago, there was a mention of "Old Zip Patch Grease" on another forum. I had recently cooked some fatty Lamb. I ended up with as much fat as if I roasted a domestic Duck. I decided to filter some of that fat and add some of Randyrat's fresh smelling beeswax and make a batch (2 half pint jars) of Old Zip Patch Grease (which is about 50-50, I'm told) and give it a try on my next BP outing.

[Graysmoke]

Hey jonb
I have tried many types when I started on the muzzle loader trail whale oil was the lube to use that gone I went to mink oil(pure). Tried TOW mink blend did good but I wanted less cost so I rendered beef fat to tallow and added bees wax to stiffen.This works very well and the cost is much better, I get wax from a local hive, and the fat from a local butcher.
Graysmoke

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Hey jonb
I have tried many types when I started on the muzzle loader trail whale oil was the lube to use that gone I went to mink oil(pure). Tried TOW mink blend did good but I wanted less cost so I rendered beef fat to tallow and added bees wax to stiffen.This works very well and the cost is much better, I get wax from a local hive, and the fat from a local butcher.
Graysmoke

whale oil is kinda hard to come by these a days. I do have some native cousins in AK, but they live inland...one cousin asked if Seal oil would work?

[Brimstone]

Jojoba oil is a whale oil substitute. I use it to oil my rifles. I've used it as patch lube. I set my uncle's back yard on fire because a jojoba oil soaked patch lit up the dry grass. Wasn't fun and narrowly avoided a major dry season brush fire.

Great gun oil, not so great patch lube. I stick with Gato Feo. Think SPG.

[redhawk0]

Bore Butter mostly...but I have used Bag Balm in a pinch. (basically just Vaseline with Lanolin)

[LabGuy]

First, let me remind everyone that I’m in florida. And yes it’s warmer here than Maine. Having said that for a patch lube I use 50% bees wax 50% unsalted lard. It might be a tad thick up north, especially in the winter.

[swamp]

I have settled on tallow and beeswax. Might try lard. Have quite a bit of both on hand for soap.
swamp