Questions about TL401-175SWC

[P.K.]

I got enough pocket change ferreted away for a new mold for my .40 cal and was looking into this one. Anyone have any experiance with it? The powder I have on hand are 700X, Green Dot and AA#2.

[ItZaLLgooD]

I use this mold and 45/45/10 for lube. I only load them light with Unique. Zero leading in my Glock 22. Plenty good for pop cans. For full tilt .40's I use plated or the j-words.

[autopilotmp]

itzallgood: are you using factory glock or aftermarket barrel? Was thinking of using this boolit also but was unsure if I would be able to get it to feed in my G22.

[HammerMTB]

If you haven't already ordered the mold, you may be better off to stay away from the TL type. The small GGs don't work well with conventional rifling, much less polygonal in a Glock.
I like and use the 175TC in the regular GG style. It has served me well. 4.9 of 700X is ~950 in a 40S&W case, and just makes major in USPSA

[ku4hx]

My TL six cavity makes excellent boolits: very consistent size and weight and also very accurate. The only problem I had was getting rounds to chamber in my Lone Wolf barrels (10mm & 40 S&W). I adjusted overall cartridge length until I was blue in the face to no avail and made sure neck size was correct. All rounds would drop freely into and fall freely out both barrels. I sent the barrels to LW along with dummy rounds and they did some chamber reshaping at their expense. The number of failures to fully chamber were reduced by a good bit but not eliminated.

I switched to the truncated cone profile for the LW barrels and have had no chambering problems since. The SWC boolits are now limited to use in my S&W 10mm and 40 S&W guns. For me that's not a problem.

I bought my first Glock (model 20) in 1991 and have fired thousands of hard cast bullets through it with never a problem. My Glock barrels will chamber all boolit profiles every time. I got the two LW barrels because I wanted barrels for my 1991 model 20 and my 1993 model 23 to have more support than the original chambers have. All my Glocks, regardless of barrel maker, are flawless with J-word bullets. And for Buffalo Bore stuff I wanted minimum "unsupported" area at the feed ramp.

[Jim_Fleming]

I bought the 175 grain, truncated cone tumble lube mould in six cavity for my G22. It loves it. I used and continue to use straight wheel weights in my factory barrel. (Polygonal Rifling)

No leading. But my Boolits are hard enough to be engraved by the rifling.

I use LLA for lubrication.

I repeat, I don't have a leading problem at all. :-)

Sent from my Droid

[P.K.]

If you haven't already ordered the mold, you may be better off to stay away from the TL type. The small GGs don't work well with conventional rifling, much less polygonal in a Glock.
I like and use the 175TC in the regular GG style. It has served me well. 4.9 of 700X is ~950 in a 40S&W case, and just makes major in USPSA

Thanks for that, I spent most of last evening becoming even cheaper than I already am. YouTube is a wonderful thing for new guys to learn new stuff. I just cooked my first couple of batches of "pan lube" out of old candles and petrolium jelly/lanolin. I'm going with the 401-175TC. I just can't see waiting a day for the Alox to dry. Some guy on YT would cast then tumble the boolits and wait a day to size then tumble again and wait to load???? Whats wrong with WD-40 or Rusty Duck to size and then lube?

[P.K.]

My TL six cavity makes excellent boolits: very consistent size and weight and also very accurate. The only problem I had was getting rounds to chamber in my Lone Wolf barrels (10mm & 40 S&W). I adjusted overall cartridge length until I was blue in the face to no avail and made sure neck size was correct. All rounds would drop freely into and fall freely out both barrels. I sent the barrels to LW along with dummy rounds and they did some chamber reshaping at their expense. The number of failures to fully chamber were reduced by a good bit but not eliminated.

I switched to the truncated cone profile for the LW barrels and have had no chambering problems since. The SWC boolits are now limited to use in my S&W 10mm and 40 S&W guns. For me that's not a problem.

I bought my first Glock (model 20) in 1991 and have fired thousands of hard cast bullets through it with never a problem. My Glock barrels will chamber all boolit profiles every time. I got the two LW barrels because I wanted barrels for my 1991 model 20 and my 1993 model 23 to have more support than the original chambers have. All my Glocks, regardless of barrel maker, are flawless with J-word bullets. And for Buffalo Bore stuff I wanted minimum "unsupported" area at the feed ramp.

I miss my 23. I never shot cast through it but it ran and was an excellent carry weapon. If I ever find a decent factory refurb again I'll get it. ;-)







I bought the 175 grain, truncated cone tumble lube mould in six cavity for my G22. It loves it. I used and continue to use straight wheel weights in my factory barrel. (Polygonal Rifling)

No leading. But my Boolits are hard enough to be engraved by the rifling.

I use LLA for lubrication.

I repeat, I don't have a leading problem at all. :-)

Sent from my Droid

The TL is on the back burner for now but not forgotten. I'm starting a mold collection and a couple of friends have expressed an intrest in trying cast. As long as I'm the one doing it. [smilie=f:

[autopilotmp]

Was thinking I might skip on the SWC for .40 and I won't tumble lube cause I hate the smeel of the LLA both while lubing and while shooting. Not so worried about the leading in the Glock barrel it is the lack of support on the case that gets me. I have a 2nd gen G22 (don't care for the finger grooves on the newer gen) and was thinking of getting a LW barrel but have heard they are rough and that storm lake or KKM is the way to go. Either way just wanted to know if anyone was having any luck w/ SWC in any barrel brand for the Glock.

[ItZaLLgooD]

I am using the stock Glock barrel. The SWC design feeds just fine through the Glock. There is no leading after 150-200 rounds. I use Unique and it burns really clean in the .40. After the first 100 shots you can't tell the gun was even shot, even after you take it apart to clean it.

The tumble lube is fast and easy. If you work at it, you can get it to work with full throttle 40's and 357's. Because I am fairly new to casting and reloading I like to keep it simple, 800-900 FPS is good enough for pops cans for my son and myself.

[fatelk]

I have both the TL401-175SWC and the 401-175TC molds. They both work flawlessly in my Glock 22 with factory barrel. I load them to about 900fps, and can't recall ever having a single malfunction with either. No leading issues with either one.

I water drop them using a mix of WW/range lead, and lube the tumble lube style with the LLA/JPW 45/45/10 concoction I learned about here. My mold was a rare over-sized Lee mold; they drop at .405+. I tumble lube them lightly so they dry in a couple hours, then I size them and tumble lube them lightly again. They turn out really nice, hardly sticky at all.

I bought the non-TL mold to see how it would work, and because I'm really not a real big tumble lube fan even though it works fine in this case. I haven't decided which one I like better yet. They both work fine for me.

[autopilotmp]

Have you guys used the 401-145-SWC?

[hedgehorn]

I bought one for my ten. I like it.

[Rangefinder]

I've used the 180gr Truncated cone in conventional groove, and the 175gr SWC tL. The SWC seems to be much more accurate for me, and I have zero leading with either one. I use 50/50 alloy for both, and LLA is superior for lube for both. As for drying a day, it's not necesary at all. It is meant to go on extremely thin, and 5 minutes with a hair dryer has em ready to load. Also, I do load these at full-power with no trouble.

[hedgehorn]

Rangefinder what are you shooting it out of?

[HammerMTB]

Thanks for that, I spent most of last evening becoming even cheaper than I already am. YouTube is a wonderful thing for new guys to learn new stuff. I just cooked my first couple of batches of "pan lube" out of old candles and petrolium jelly/lanolin. I'm going with the 401-175TC. I just can't see waiting a day for the Alox to dry. Some guy on YT would cast then tumble the boolits and wait a day to size then tumble again and wait to load???? Whats wrong with WD-40 or Rusty Duck to size and then lube?

I have a method to reduce the time between lube and use.
It is detailed in the Lube forum, but essentially:
Make 45/45/10. Much cleaner, far less smoke, and dries faster, among the many things.
Warm your boolits. I get mine hot to the touch with a blow drier.
First lube is a thin coat. It dries in 15-20 min. Second coat is heavier, and dies overnight. I found I make boolits so fast and many with a 6-cav mold I literally have 3 lb coffee cans full. Time to dry is no longer an object.
This has worked not only on the 40/10MM boolits, but on my .38 target, 44 Mag, 45 Colt, and .500 S&W boolits. Pretty much anything up to 1500 FPS.
:cbpour:

[Rangefinder]

Rangefinder what are you shooting it out of?

S&W Sigma40

[P.K.]

S&W Sigma40

How much work have you had done on the trigger? Mine has been worked down to an 8 lb pull. It's a damn revolver if you leave it stock!:Fire:

[P.K.]

Got the regular lube mold. Cast some fine lookin boolits with it too. Will post tomorrow.

[Rangefinder]

How much work have you had done on the trigger? Mine has been worked down to an 8 lb pull. It's a damn revolver if you leave it stock!

Not much really. Whoever had it before me did the spring kit, and then all I had to mess with is a polish. It's about 6lbs. Not my favorite by a loooong way, but it's primarily my HD, so it's fine as is. I've spent plenty of time on DA revolvers, so the pull really doesn't bother me in the least.

[ku4hx]

RE: I miss my 23. I never shot cast through it but it ran and was an excellent carry weapon. If I ever find a decent factory refurb again I'll get it. ;-)

Mine's a superior factory refurb at Glock's expense. Long story but Glock replaced the complete gun once because of its absolute refusal to run with any ammo, did all upgrades a few years ago and about a year or so ago replaced the damaged Gen2 frame with a Gen3.

It's my "goto" piece now.

[P.K.]

RE: I miss my 23. I never shot cast through it but it ran and was an excellent carry weapon. If I ever find a decent factory refurb again I'll get it. ;-)

Mine's a superior factory refurb at Glock's expense. Long story but Glock replaced the complete gun once because of its absolute refusal to run with any ammo, did all upgrades a few years ago and about a year or so ago replaced the damaged Gen2 frame with a Gen3.

It's my "goto" piece now.With a Gen III I don't blame you. The ergo's along with the dust cover are so improved Glock will be hard pressed to improve. Many of the guy's I talked to on the GSSF circut mention if they try to tweek the Gen III anymore they'll give 'em up. ;-)

[mpmarty]

I use the LEE 175gr TLTC boolit in all my 10mms Once had a Glock 20 that ate the boolit fine but I sold it as I don't like Glocks. My four 10mms are three Witness Elite Match and one Smith 610.

[P.K.]

O-k, I think it's a keeper. Won't know untill I punch some paper but I like 'em.

Sorry for the quality of the photo, the phone just can't do what the camera can.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/IrishEKU/10252011.jpg

[autopilotmp]

watcha gonna lube those babies with? Keep us posted on how they perform.

[P.K.]

watcha gonna lube those babies with? Keep us posted on how they perform.

I will, they dropped so nice from the mold I thought somethin was wrong!

Lookin' at a couple of recipies in the lube area. I'll be posting.;-)

[Ronbo256]

P.K. I'm pan lubing that same boolit with WWVA and it leaves the bore polished. My problem is I set up my pistol (homebuilt 1911) with a tight chamber and the lee mold is dropping a .404 to .405 boolit. I have developed a hatred for pan lubing, so my new (to me) sizing setup will be here next week!

[P.K.]

P.K. I'm pan lubing that same boolit with WWVA and it leaves the bore polished. My problem is I set up my pistol (homebuilt 1911) with a tight chamber and the lee mold is dropping a .404 to .405 boolit. I have developed a hatred for pan lubing, so my new (to me) sizing setup will be here next week!

Have you tried dropping into water? The ones pictured came out to .402 at the base and .403 above the groove.

[Ronbo256]

That is water dropped, I haven't tried any just dropped on a wet towel like I do .45 since I need a bit of hardness to keep the nose from deforming on the feed ramp. I may need to try a wee bit softer alloy.

[P.K.]

That is water dropped, I haven't tried any just dropped on a wet towel like I do .45 since I need a bit of hardness to keep the nose from deforming on the feed ramp. I may need to try a wee bit softer alloy.

Those (pictured) are CWW (10# pot) w/ 10 oz. of Lino. and about 6 in of tin. They came out pretty "hard" as my nail just "shines" and one of my dental picks will mark with minimal pressure. I'm still a green horn to all this mixing stuff and only about half way through "From Ingot to Bullet" but I think I got it close or it's time to put the pot down and pick up the book(s). ;-)

[Jimmy]

I cast this bullet out of a six cavity with straight clip on wheel weights water dropped, tumble lubed with 45-45-10 (alox, JPW, mineral spirits), and sized with Lee .401 sizing die. I shoot it out of a Glock 23 (factory barrel) with 5.5 gr of WSF powder. This is a full power load, I believe. I don't get a crazy amount of leading. I get GREAT accuracy.

[Rangefinder]

There is NO need to go so hard with this boolit--frankly, it's worse if you do. I use BOTH the classic TC and the TL-SWC in my 40S&W. I lube with LLA on both. However, 50/50 dead soft and COWW is all the harder you need to go. Straight WW if you want to, but you certainly do NOT need to do any water dropping, and the LAST thing you need to do is start adding lino!!. The only time I start water-dropping boolits is for rifles with a high-pressure load in the 30,000+ range. You'll likely get more leading with such a hard alloy. Softer boolits seal the bore better, especially where a bevel-base is being used. Back off your hardness!!