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View Full Version : Mihec HP - Broke the Code



Iron Mike Golf
10-10-2011, 08:10 PM
This is just a shout in celebration. I have been tapping, firmly, lots, when casting using the 432-200 HP mold.

I took the "not hot enough" truly to heart (finally). I pre-heated until the mold was a little too hot. The first two casts smeared. Wiped the bottom of the sprue cullter with a gloved finger, waited for the boolit to set up int the cavity, and dropped them into the sprue pile.

After that, I cast as fast as I could. Boolits dropped free and I cast a full pot, not needing to tap a single time.

YIPPEE!!!

kbstenberg
10-10-2011, 08:14 PM
Mike isn't it wonderful when everything comes together!! You know without pictures it never happened.

Blammer
10-10-2011, 08:14 PM
Yea I had to go through that too!

mroliver77
10-11-2011, 01:37 PM
Just to prove it to myself, I took a new Lee mould and set it on the hotplate. It smoked for a while then quit. After an hour or so I poured one. It took a few pour but then nice boolits started falling out. I think the heat burned the oils out. The first few pours carried the ash out and then all was well. Well almost. A quick Leementing to get the micro burrs(toolmarks) out and then all was well.

I wholeheartedly believe in preheating moulds to just a touch warmer than you need and letting the first couple pours equalise heat.
J

geargnasher
10-11-2011, 11:01 PM
NOW you know what we mean when we say CAST FAST AND KEEP THE MOULD HOT!

Gear

Gun-adian
10-11-2011, 11:30 PM
Once I found out the "run it real hot" trick, the boolits just fell out.

Keep the mould HOT HOT HOT!!!!

Mike

captaint
10-12-2011, 09:05 AM
I think most of us learned that the same way!! OH, THAT'S what they mean..... enjoy Mike

sheehan93
10-17-2011, 10:05 PM
Good to know for a guy like me that is new to the trade. Thanks guys.