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BigRix
08-31-2011, 11:58 PM
I scrounged up some Tulammo .45 acp steel case from the range floor the other day.

I decided to load some of it up and so far so good.

It took a little more pressure to size the cases but nothing out of the ordinary.

I had a half a box of Laser Cast 200gr .452 round nose flat point bullets I got in a trade so I used those. Seated with out much pressure and and best of all, it didn't even touch the factory crimp die on the way in. I tried some nickel brass to compare and they took a lot of pressure to shove through the FCD. Pulled some bullets and they still measured .452.

Just got done loading them so no range report yet. I'll let you know how they shoot.

At first I was a little miffed that I ended up with 48 of them instead of 50. Turns out that loading moon clips for my 625, 48 works out perfect.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/c48a60ed.jpg

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss208/BigRix/1bee86a2.jpg

MtGun44
09-01-2011, 12:25 AM
I've laoded a few, harder to size, other than that, seem OK. Definitely would not do
too well in a wet environment.

Bill

frkelly74
09-01-2011, 01:08 AM
I agree that they can't get wet. Especially the tulammo/herters cases. The Wolf seem to have a thicker laquer type coating and have not rusted as badly. I wonder about the build up in my dies though. They dang sure work once and If they come to you free you have not lost anything.

BigRix
09-01-2011, 09:04 AM
Rust, whats that? I live in the American southwest and rust is not much of a problem unless I stored this stuff outside, unprotected, during our "rainy" season. I store all my ammo inside my air-conditioned house and it goes to the range in my air-conditioned car. My first house used evaporative cooling and I could see that being a problem. But it would take a few years to rust under those conditions. I tumbled this stuff with my other brass for a few hours so I'm not sure if any protective coating is left.

I'm just happy that I didn't listen to the guys at the range who said you can't reload this stuff. I won't be telling them it works. I'll just keep picking up their empties.

odfairfaxsub
09-01-2011, 09:29 AM
im glad i found some people like me. when i had a shortage of 45 acp cases, the guys on another forum were like wouldnt try that in a 100 years. the steel might scar or work on the various parts of my bullet seater/crimper or such but they shoot in my research from my xd 5 in acp about 1.5 inch larger groups when i was just getting 1.5 inch groups at 10yards. i love the cases and nobody picks them up!!!

frkelly74
09-01-2011, 10:05 AM
I have found that there are many degrees of can't. Some are slam dunk cans that nobody tried, Some are actually can with a little effort, some are shouldn't but possible, a few are definitely can't but even some of those can be converted with effort and understanding. Wow, profound, I have to go lie down for a while.

fredj338
09-01-2011, 11:17 AM
The problem w/ the steel cases is they are NOT designed to be reloaded. The mild steel is NOT ductile enough to maintane good neck tension if loaded multiple times. I use them as throw away cases for lost brass matches. They work fine for 1-2 reloads, then start losing neck tension. Even w/ carbide dies, use case lube on them, your dies will thank you. The aluminum Blaser stuff, even worse, not good for any reloading but SHTF & even then a poor choice.

Poygan
09-01-2011, 11:50 AM
As an experiment, I've been reloading 6 Wolf steel cases and 12 CCI NR aluminum cases (small primer) in 45 acp. I do lube the Wolf cases before sizing in a carbide die. Mid range load of 700-x and used 452374 and 452488 boolits. Used a Ruger BH to avoid damage upon ejection and also for the added strength in the event of a case failure. Four loadings and firings to date with no indicated problems or loss of neck tension. Accuracy is good (for me anyway).

This should NOT be misconstrued as a recommended practice.

Old Caster
09-01-2011, 11:53 AM
I wouldn't worry so much about what was happening to a carbide die but what was happening to my chamber without the factory applied coating. -- Bill --

fredj338
09-01-2011, 01:04 PM
As an experiment, I've been reloading 6 Wolf steel cases and 12 CCI NR aluminum cases (small primer) in 45 acp. I do lube the Wolf cases before sizing in a carbide die. Mid range load of 700-x and used 452374 and 452488 boolits. Used a Ruger BH to avoid damage upon ejection and also for the added strength in the event of a case failure. Four loadings and firings to date with no indicated problems or loss of neck tension. Accuracy is good (for me anyway).

This should NOT be misconstrued as a recommended practice.

The loss of neck tension is not dramtic in the steel, it doesn't cause bullet setback, but running them over a chrono you'll see vel swings get larger after every reload. With the alumn Blaser, loaded just once, vel swings as large as 100fps were not uncommon in loads that produce less than 15fps in once fired brass cases.

garym1a2
09-01-2011, 02:51 PM
I wonder if.steel cases can be loaded hotter than brass?

MikeS
09-01-2011, 04:52 PM
I've reloaded Tula cases before without any problems. I agree that even with carbide dies they should be lubed before sizing. If they only last 2 or 3 reloadings, well that's 2 or 3 more than most folks say I should be able to get with them, so I'm happy. I recently traded with another member here for a Ruger Mini-30 and it's unfired, and came with almost 500 rounds of chinese steel cased ammo. As I plan on only shooting lead in it (as well as all my other guns), I've been pulling the steel jacketed bullets from them, dumping the powder, and reloading the cases with my lead boolits. So far I've only done about 30 of them, as I'm waiting on a mould from a GB that's specifically for the 7.62x39. Once I've shot all of these cases I'll get some berdan primers of the proper size, and reload them too.

Poygan
09-01-2011, 05:02 PM
Fredj338: Now I'm curious as to the velocity swings. I think my chronograph is cowering in the corner somewhere (for good reason) and I'll have to check this out. Maybe load some of the same loads in good brass cases as a control....

MikeS
09-01-2011, 05:21 PM
I wouldn't worry so much about what was happening to a carbide die but what was happening to my chamber without the factory applied coating. -- Bill --

I wonder if a coating could be reapplied? I have an aerosol can of a dry film lubricant that comes out with a paint like consistency, and I would think giving the freshly tumbled and resized cases a light coating of this stuff (I can't find it at the moment, or I'd tell you it's name) would work like the original factory polymer coating. BTW, that's the difference between Wolf & Tula ammo, they're both made in the same factory, the Wolf has a laquor coating, the Tula has a polymer coating.

fatelk
09-01-2011, 10:04 PM
You'll shoot your eye out!:)

I've loaded both steel cases and aluminum; mild plinking loads one reload only then toss. They worked fine, but I didn't try a chronograph.

The thing I noticed with aluminum in particular is that while the .45acp cases loaded fine, 9mm and .40 were a no-go for me. Some would split while loading them, and many would when firing them.

I haven't messed with them in quite a while, as I have buckets of good brass that's actually brass.

jrayborn
09-02-2011, 01:00 PM
I have never re-loaded aluminum cases but I have been re-loading steel wolf .45 acp and .223 cases for years. .45 cases seem to split at the mouth pretty regularly about the sixth time reloaded. I have only reloaded .223 3 times but so far so good. Makes me feel pretty good to get a little extra out of the "disposable" cases.

Jon

Catshooter
09-02-2011, 04:17 PM
The problem w/ the steel cases is they are NOT designed to be reloaded.

Fred,

You state that as if it's a known fact. Can you tell us the source of this data please?


Cat

fredj338
09-02-2011, 04:54 PM
Fred,

You state that as if it's a known fact. Can you tell us the source of this data please?


Cat
Originaly, steel & alum cases were loaded w/ Berdan primers to inhibit reloading.

It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that mild steel or alum do NOT have the ductility of brass. It's why brass has been the mat'l. of choice for cases for at least a century. I am sure there are advances that allow a better steel case to be made today than 100yrs ago, but they are still not meant for reloading due to the ductility factor. It's easy to check for yourself. Load once fired brass & steel, then load them again. See which one fails sooner & which one starts getting bigger vel spreads sooner, yes yo uneed a chronograph. They all fail at some point, the steel sooner. I am also not crazy about stuffing even the mildest steel cases into my expensive carbide dies. You can feel the add'l force needed to size the case. SO when I do use them, they get lubed unlike my brass cases.

Freischütz
09-02-2011, 05:06 PM
I reloaded some Wolf 45 ACP cases. In a S&W revolver I used full moon clips with 6.0 gr of Unique and bullet 452423. After four reloads half the cases had split.

But what surprised me was increased difficulty ejecting the cases. The first reload ejected normally. After that each reloading produced progressively harder extraction. After the fifth reload I could not move the extractor with my hand. I had to sharply knock the rod against the shooting bench to get the cases out.

Idaho Sharpshooter
09-02-2011, 05:27 PM
It is comforting to know that the brass is boxer primed...

Rich

kywoodwrkr
09-02-2011, 07:06 PM
This posting got me to thinking, I've been here before.
Then remembered some 30 carbine, which may not be steel, but they aren't brass either. Grayish metal if I remember correctly. Easily corroded(like steel?).
Been reloading them for quite some time now-even in dog years.

fredj338
09-02-2011, 07:17 PM
I reloaded some Wolf 45 ACP cases. In a S&W revolver I used full moon clips with 6.0 gr of Unique and bullet 452423. After four reloads half the cases had split.

But what surprised me was increased difficulty ejecting the cases. The first reload ejected normally. After that each reloading produced progressively harder extraction. After the fifth reload I could not move the extractor with my hand. I had to sharply knock the rod against the shooting bench to get the cases out.

That is the increased friction of the steel & less ductility. It's why they really should not be reloaded. I think most taht use them have never taken the time to run them against brass loaded ammo & see the diff. I would certainly use them for SHTF or once fired lost case matches, but not as a regular item, YMMV. Once fired brass is too cheap to risk any possible damage to my nicer guns. Yes, I would shoot steel in any Glock or AK, maybe even an AR, but really, you guys that cheap?

BAGTIC
09-02-2011, 07:27 PM
Was that American made steel cases or foreign made steel cases that were originally made with Berdan primers "to inhibit reloading."?

fredj338
09-02-2011, 09:02 PM
Was that American made steel cases or foreign made steel cases that were originally made with Berdan primers "to inhibit reloading."?

Except for early WWII steel cased 45acp, the only steel cases, until recently, were from the Russian ammo manuf. The early WOlf stuff was berdan primed.
Really, if it was soooo much better, then why haven't ammo manuf here been doing it for years? Yes, you can reload them, no they do not reload as well as brass. Notice no one sells steel cases for reloading, I wonder why? Should you load steel cases? Your guns, your shooting time, I just don't see the point of doing it more than 1X, after that things start becoming erratic & I don't reload to just here it go bang.

Dannix
09-02-2011, 11:55 PM
I thought that .45ACP brass lasted basically forever? Could you guys enlighten me?

I'm a 9mm guy and have never seen a split case, but that's mainly because I have a lot of 9mm brass.

Echo
09-03-2011, 11:22 AM
I thought that .45ACP brass lasted basically forever? Could you guys enlighten me?



I've got some 45 brass that has been fired and reloaded so many times the cannalure is ironed completely flat. Don't know how many times, but many...

milprileb
09-03-2011, 08:46 PM
Reloading steel cases is right there with you can wear your socks all year long without changing them.

Yes you can but WHY?

That you can do anything must be balanced against Why?

If Why does not come to mind, then there is a more serious problem lurking: that is lack of logic.

fredj338
09-03-2011, 09:34 PM
I've got some 45 brass that has been fired and reloaded so many times the cannalure is ironed completely flat. Don't know how many times, but many...

Same here. I have reloaded some brass cased 45acp at least 20X & they still work. You can't read the headstamp, but they still work. The occasional split comes along now & then, but geeze, 20 reloads, why bother w/ steel cases going maybe 4-5.

odfairfaxsub
09-03-2011, 10:11 PM
I reloaded some Wolf 45 ACP cases. In a S&W revolver I used full moon clips with 6.0 gr of Unique and bullet 452423. After four reloads half the cases had split.

thats the same load i have.

Gee_Wizz01
09-03-2011, 11:02 PM
Originally I reloaded a few just to see if it would work. It worked OK, and I just let it go. Then a few years later a well meaning friend, who scrounges brass for me in exchange for computer repair work, gave me about 1000 Wolf brand 45ACP cases. I accepted them, and I didn't want to hurt his feelings, as he is also in his 60's and it was a lot of work for him. They were sitting in a bucket when one day I up and ran them through the old Loadmaster. Now when one of the kids want's to shoot .45's I give them the steel cases, as my kids aren't as passionate (my describes my passion as anal) as I am about finding fired brass. Turns out to be a win-win situation. The steel cases didn't cost me anything and now I don't lose my precious brass cases.

G

MikeS
09-03-2011, 11:43 PM
Originaly, steel & alum cases were loaded w/ Berdan primers to inhibit reloading.

Actually only the aluminum cases were specifically loaded with berdan primers to 'inhibit' reloading, specifically the Blazer brand of ammo. I don't have a clue how the American made steel cases (during the war?) were primed, but the Wolf ammo was berdan primed because it is made in Russia, and like most European ammo was berdan primed because that's the system they use there. Many thousand of berdan primed cases have been reloaded, probably steel as well as brass. Very little (if any) Russian ammo is brass cased, most of it being steel cased with a variety of coatings/platings over the steel. In later years I think even Europe is switching over to boxer priming, which is why the Wolf, and Tula are now boxer primed. Even the Blazer is now boxer primed. If anyone is serious about using steel cases, there's no reason the cases can't be annealed, then they should last a longer time. As far as why do it, probably 'because it's there' is as good an answer as any.

Catshooter
09-04-2011, 07:47 PM
World War 2 steel cases were Boxer primer.


Cat

azrednek
09-04-2011, 09:21 PM
Back in the 70's when US GI WW2 surplus ammo was still cheap I bought a thousand rds of steel cased 45ACP. I reloaded them but eventually wore out the C-H brand sizing die. I did this back when carbide dies were to expensive and did it the old fashion way of rolling them in a RCBS lube pad. The cases didn't last long as they started splitting after a few reloads. The mirror type finish on the inside of my sizing die disappeared and the cases become more and more difficult to size. I also had some problems with the de-capping expander die. I would have to lube the inside or the case would be difficult to remove. Possibly with carbide dies wearing the die out may not be a problem. As cheap and abundant as 45ACP brass is. Personally I wouldn't want to bother reloading steel cases again.

Dannix
09-04-2011, 09:39 PM
World War 2 steel cases were Boxer primer.
What was so that people wouldn't reload them with berdan primers.
:kidding:

MikeS
09-05-2011, 08:02 AM
What was so that people wouldn't reload them with berdan primers.
:kidding:

Yup, they were designed to be used in Europe, and them Germans picking up the American boxer primed steel cases looked at them, and said (in German)"How are we going to reload these, they only put one flash hole in it, and they forgot to put the anvil in the case!"

And this just got me wondering, I know the American standard is boxer priming, and the European standard was berdan priming, but what did the Japanese use?

BAGTIC
09-05-2011, 12:36 PM
Except for early WWII steel cased 45acp, the only steel cases, until recently, were from the Russian ammo manuf. The early WOlf stuff was berdan primed.
Really, if it was soooo much better, then why haven't ammo manuf here been doing it for years? Yes, you can reload them, no they do not reload as well as brass. Notice no one sells steel cases for reloading, I wonder why? Should you load steel cases? Your guns, your shooting time, I just don't see the point of doing it more than 1X, after that things start becoming erratic & I don't reload to just here it go bang.

I recall reading an official document on the DTIC website about USA development of steel cases. It said they were more expensive to make than brass ones. In a military situation it wouldn't make sense to spend more $$$ on something that was used once and then abandoned the military having no interest in reloadability.

BAGTIC
09-05-2011, 12:47 PM
I don't have a clue how the American made steel cases (during the war?) were primed,....

The American steel cases were boxer primed. SOME of them used a smaller than standard but still Boxer primer.

I suspect that one reason so many other countries are turning to Boxer primers is the increasing importance of the American market. It a time when private firearms ownership is severely restricted in many of these countries the private ammunition firms are beginning to see American sales as a critical segment of their business. I notice that the Chinese don't have any problem making export consumer products to USA 110 volt, 60 hz electrical standards or with USA threaded fasteners.

mdi
09-05-2011, 01:15 PM
BigRix; You opened with "I think I like steel cases better", but you haven't said why. You reloaded some up 'cause you ran across some and wanted to try 'em, but better? Was this just to stir up the "yes you can, I do it all the time" camp vs the "don't do it, steel will ruin your dies/guns" group? :kidding:

BigRix
09-05-2011, 01:50 PM
I like them better so far because they actually loaded easier in my Lee turret press than my brass cases. I'm new at all of this and actually prefer the separate seat and crimp of the Lee Factory Crimp die. Having read a lot on this forum about swagging the bullets when run through the FCD I was impressed with the fact that the steel cases did not even touch the carbide sizing ring on the way in. I pulled some bullets and they were the same size as before I loaded them. Is it possible that the steel case is thinner than the brass? Am I planning to use them exclusively? No.

I'm also all about not wasting any thing that can be used. I also am a bit of a prepper and appreciate the fact that these can be reused in a SHTF situation.

azrednek
09-05-2011, 05:18 PM
The American steel cases were boxer primed. SOME of them used a smaller than standard but still Boxer primer..

US GI 45ACP ammo that came from the Frankford Arsenal used an odd ball slightly smaller primer. Cutting a taper in the primer pocket with a chamfer tool and a little bit of extra elbow grease I could seat the primers.

Rockydog
09-05-2011, 11:25 PM
The friction aspect of using steel cases may be a big factor in the long run. When ammo prices were on the rise last year a bunch of the guys in my trap league stopped shooting AAs and went with the Winchester Universal High Speed hulls with steel bases. Befrore everybody gets their knickers in a bunch, yes, I realize that virtually all brass shotshell bases are brass plated steel. This is my point. I looked at the internals of the steel base hulls and other than the ribbed plastic they looked identical to the NEW STYLE AA hulls so I started loading them with my AA data. They filled to the same point, crimped nicely with 1 OZ loads for 16 yd use, and performed identically up until I tried extracting them from my 870 Remington. On the first reloading I'd get one or two that would hang up and require extra effort on the forend to open the action. By the second reload there were a couple that I'd have to set my buttstock on my knee and open with both hands on the forend. After that I quit because it was just too distracting to my shooting. By contrast I've got AAs that I know have 6 or 7 loadings on with no extraction problems. All hulls are resized in the collet on my MEC Grabber. Since the only difference appears to be the brass plating I'd think that the extra friction provided by the steel surface is the problem. I was cleaning my reloading room today and tossed 6-700 of these in the trash can. Doable but just not worth the hassle. RD

BAGTIC
12-16-2011, 10:44 PM
Ironically the American system of Boxer primers was invented in Europe (UK) while the European system of Berdan was invented in the USA. NIH existed even back then.

A prophet is without honor in his own land.

milprileb
12-17-2011, 07:34 AM
Hornady now sells steel cased match ammo. If it would not shoot well, they
would not do that.

Me... I would prefer to keep with brass cases and do.

Lizard333
12-17-2011, 09:47 AM
Hornady now sells steel cased match ammo. If it would not shoot well, they
would not do that.

Me... I would prefer to keep with brass cases and do.

They do sell the steel ammo now, but they advertise it as a throw away alternative to matches were you may lose your brass.

The real question I keep asking myself with this thread is why??? Most ranges there is so much brass lying on the ground most guys can get all they want. Brass is easy on your dies, can be reloaded a vast number of times, doesn't corrode, and looks really pretty to boot after a nice tumble. Steel doesn't have the properties we look for in reloading, rusts, causes your dies to wear prematurely, and generally is a major PITA! I see guys that they are will to re-apply the laquer on the steel, to make the case last longer. WHY?

You can slam your head into car door jam all day long, but isn't really all that good an idea. Just because something CAN be done, doesn't mean that it SHOULD be done.

Ill keep my brass. Any steel cases that accidentally get picked go in my steel scrap pile with my WW clips and slag. Thats about all they are worth.

Janoosh
12-17-2011, 11:56 AM
I reload Wolf 223 steel cases for a Baikal overunder rifle/shotgun. 7 loadings now. The aspect of reloading steel is a continual learning experience for me. People say "I'll keep my brass" but on the range I maintain I see more "scrappers" then reloaders. As the economy worsens, Brass is worth more than steel. So these individuals see $$$ rather than casings to be used. They delete the ready "free" supply. I don't blame them, as they are on a limited income. Will we start threads soon on disappearing "brass", like the "I can't find lead threads"?
By the way..... I hoard everything!

Recluse
12-17-2011, 02:28 PM
I like them better so far because they actually loaded easier in my Lee turret press than my brass cases.

Not one of my loading presses or die sets cost anywhere near what my better/nicer guns cost.

I'm not going to run steel cases through my carbide dies and then in $1000/$3000 dollar guns to save a few cents.

NO way.

That's where I'M cheap.

:coffee:

Reload3006
12-17-2011, 02:41 PM
the biggest issue with steel cases is the possibility of damage to your chamber. So why not tumble the cases in Powdered graphite. It may be messy but it sure is slick I cant see it hurting your gun .... I would down load to make sure that didnt cause any pressure issues. but it should be as effective as polymer coating.

frkelly74
12-17-2011, 02:47 PM
Well if I had a gun that was worth a lot of money I might sprout a bit of concern about what I shot through it. All my guns have been there and done that so their worst abuse is already behind them. What I might do to them with steel cases is not worth worrying about. I just make sure they are clean and chamber easily and away I go. Affordable shooting with an acceptable level of accuracy for the individual gun is what I am after and Free is even better than cheap. this is of course my opinion.

jcwit
12-17-2011, 06:06 PM
Wow, Brass cases must almost be an unknown item in some parts to have to stoop to reloading steel cases.

btroj
12-17-2011, 06:29 PM
No steel in my guns. Not new, not reloads.

Brass is available and even my FIL isn't that cheap. And he is cheap!

captaint
12-17-2011, 07:52 PM
Man, I don't know. I think it's like "hey, they said I couldn't do this, and I did it!!". There will be no steel cases entering my chambers, or dies..... enjoy Mike

jcwit
12-17-2011, 08:30 PM
This reminds me of those posters from years ago with the ugly gals on it with the caption

If those lips have touched alcohol they will never touch mine.

Southron Sanders
12-17-2011, 10:02 PM
Back in the 1970's when they were closing down Frankfort Arsenal I went to the "Surplus Sale" that was open to the public. I was amazed to see 55 Gallon steel drums full of ALUMINUM .45 Auto cases. They were head stamped "FA 41." They had never been loaded because the primer hole had not been fully pierced. Obviously, in 1941 Frankfort Arsenal was experimenting with aluminum cases for the .45 ACP caliber.

I also saw loaded 5.56 NATO rounds using both aluminum and steel cases. The head stamp date was during the Viet Nam war although now I do not recall the exact year. As far as I know Uncle Sam has stuck with brass cases for his military issue small arms ammo.

Dale53
12-18-2011, 02:31 AM
It seems that someone is always trying to re-invent the wheel. Freischutz stated the real problem. One great characteristic of brass cases is that they immediately spring back, allowing easy ejection. Steel cases do NOT spring back like brass does greatly increasing the effort of withdrawing them from the chamber.

This is REALLY hard on the extractor in a 1911. Broken extractors are the rule when using steel cases. Personally, I might NEED things to work and that is exactly the time that they fail.

It's not worth the saving, folks. "You either pays up front or you pay further down the pike"...

FWIW
Dale53

Olevern
12-18-2011, 07:10 AM
Lubing casings prevents the case from adhearing to the chamber at the instant of firing and increases dramatically the recoil impulse on the bolt (or recoil plate in a revolver). Not good from a safety standpoint.

Prolly not a good idea.

zuke
12-18-2011, 09:40 AM
If I could find some reloadable steel,I'd try it.
It's the same as guy's that use black powder or bow's or spear's.
Because they can!

btroj
12-18-2011, 09:52 AM
I can play with matches. I can play in traffic. I don't do either because common sense says not to. I view reloading steel cases in the same manner. You many get away with it for a time but at some point it also may bite you pretty hard.

I don't tend to engage in risky behaviors.

Recluse
12-18-2011, 10:00 PM
I don't tend to engage in risky behaviors.

Agree.

I've had JOBS where risky behaviors were a big part of the job and I had no choice in the matter. No way in Hades am I going to engage in such behaviors in my hobby.

:coffee:

Dannix
12-21-2011, 11:27 PM
Most ranges there is so much brass lying on the ground most guys can get all they want.
I wish that was true in my backyard.


I see more "scrappers" then reloaders. As the economy worsens, Brass is worth more than steel. So these individuals see $$$ rather than casings to be used.
That's the case in my area too. I wouldn't mind if they sold them to reloaders at scrap prices... :\

Sonnypie
12-22-2011, 12:14 AM
As an experiment, I've been reloading 6 Wolf steel cases and 12 CCI NR aluminum cases (small primer) in 45 acp. I do lube the Wolf cases before sizing in a carbide die. Mid range load of 700-x and used 452374 and 452488 boolits. Used a Ruger BH to avoid damage upon ejection and also for the added strength in the event of a case failure. Four loadings and firings to date with no indicated problems or loss of neck tension. Accuracy is good (for me anyway).

This should NOT be misconstrued as a recommended practice.

Well, you did preface it with As an experiment...
I would be interested in following the experiment.
I don't think I have ever seen a steel casing yet.

I have a bunch of the cheap pop-N-drop 12 gauge shells from the range that have aluminum bases.
They reloaded fine for me. But I don't do a lot of shotgun shooting. And then it is with "Old Betsy", a sawed off double barrel. My quail gun/ house gun.

Dad use to say, "If you don't try it, you will always wonder if it woulda worked."

evan price
12-22-2011, 04:27 AM
While picking up brass I found some reloads dropped by somebody that landed in the tall grass. This person took Tula 9mm cases, which were Berdan primed, drilled out the primer so as to leave them the right size for Boxer small pistol, drilled the anvil and put in a Boxer flash hole in the middle. The metal was tissue thin in the bottom of the primer pocket! Then they reloaded them with a small charge of a flake powder, looked like Unique.
There was little to none of the lacquer coating left on the cases, they looked all scratched up like they had been loaded in dirty dies, and I was amazed at how much work they went to saving Berdan primed 9mm Luger cases, considering you can pick up as much 9mm Luger brass as you want at the range on most days.

The OP's noticing the steel cases never touch the Lee FCD is because the steel cases are thinner.

Around here the steel cases start to rust instantly upon firing. This is because the paint or lacquer or polymer coating starts to crack when the case expands on firing- it also cracks when resized. I've seen unfired Tulammo start to rust after keeping it in the range bag for a few weeks. I'd hate to see what happens to my range ammo I load on bad weather days and store for shooting later.

I also know some Blazer aluminum cases are now Boxer primed. I found some crunched/jammed unfired Blazer and broke them down to salvage the primers and bullets. I suppose they could be reloaded- maybe once?- but I wouldn't do it. Aluminum isn't like brass or steel, which when flexed but not to the yield limit, will still maintain their strength. Aluminum, when flexed, will have the yield limit drop after each flex cycle, until there is a fatigue failure.

zuke
12-22-2011, 01:44 PM
I wish that was true in my backyard.


That's the case in my area too. I wouldn't mind if they sold them to reloaders at scrap prices... :\

Up here I can get $18/1000 from the scrapper. That's $1.80 per lb x 10lbs
I sell them for $30/1000 to reloader's+ shipping.
I figure my time to count,pack and drive up to the post office and stand in line is worth $12.00

Red River Rick
12-23-2011, 01:42 PM
Up here I can get $18/1000 from the scrapper. That's $1.80 per lb x 10lbs
I sell them for $30/1000 to reloader's+ shipping.
I figure my time to count,pack and drive up to the post office and stand in line is worth $12.00

Zuke:

$30 M for brass. So, what happened when I offered you $40 per M..............

RRR

zuke
12-23-2011, 03:57 PM
Was that for 40 cal or 303?