Nose Vent Line

[slughammer]

I just picked up a new production 311041 with a suffix of EV inspected Jan 2004. Sprue plate looks to be 3/16" thick.

When I casted for the first time I got a slight finning at the nose. The fin started as soon as the mold got up to temp to throw good boolits.

Inspection of the mold for warpage, chips, etc. had me find that one of the vent lines is right on the nose. Doesn't Lyman position the lines so this doesn't happen?

In wheel weights it's throwing 176.5gr, .300 on the nose and .310 on the body. I need .302 and .311+. I'd like to try larger diameters, but I doubt that Beagle tape would work very well for this one. I also don't want to start lapping if this is a condition I should return for.

[beagle]

The vent lines are all milled on the faces before the cavity is cut. I'd suspect it's the luck of the draw that a vent line hit there. Still, their quality inspector should have caught that.

If it's a newly bought mould, I'd call Lyman and complain. They should replace it./beagle

[Buckshot]

............If you're using a bottom pour, try letting the lead hit the edge of the hole in the sprueplate on it's way in. This way you won't have so much force hitting the nose of the cavity.

How much tin ya using?

..............Buckshot

[ben1025]

Few years ago had same problem with RCBS 22-55 grain mould. The departure line of the meplate and vent line run together. Took 5 moulds from Rcbs B4 the problem was cured. First 3 moulds I sent back cost 5$ in shipping. Wised up by the 4 th mould and kept it. Finally got to one of their engineers who knew what I was complaining about. If I remember right he fixed the mould he sent me (#5) by raising or lowering the cherry which resulted in a shorter gas check shank. Result was the gas check was a little hard to seat. I did end up with an extra mould. I made a plain base mould out of it. If I had to do it all over again I think I would just rub the whiskers off of the original mould. ben1025

[slughammer]

............If you're using a bottom pour, try letting the lead hit the edge of the hole in the sprueplate on it's way in. This way you won't have so much force hitting the nose of the cavity.

How much tin ya using?

..............Buckshot

I'm casting straight wheel weights. No matter where the lead hits on its way in, they all have this. I'd estimate that the grooves are .010 and the meplats break into the groove by .001/.002. I closed the blocks, swung the sprue plate out of the way and looked down inside; sure enough it easy to see with the naked eye. I've come to the realization that I'm simply casting a feature that is there.

If I was happy with the nose and band diameters I'd leave it alone and not worry about the line. But I need to make em bigger so I'll try contacting Lyman before I start messing around.