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ballisti-cast
08-27-2011, 05:48 PM
Ballisti-Cast is under new ownership as of July and we are planning on making design updates to all of our machines as is necessary. Please give us feedback on what you like and dislike about the machines and how we can make them better. Our goal is to create low cost, backward compatible, upgrade kits for the machines to iron out any problems people may have had with them as well as make them faster and more efficient. We are a fully capable CNC machine shop and proud of both our bullet casting equipment and precision needle valve line. We look forward to your input and forging a strong business relationship.

http://www.idealvalve.com
http://www.ballisti-cast.com

Catshooter
08-27-2011, 07:23 PM
Well ballisti-cast, welcome to the site and to the mould business.

My input would be: Make the mould cavities large enough (not undersize like Lyman seems to be doing these days) and lower your prices. A lot.

I guess one other thing would be this. I started casting more than forty years ago. In the five years I've been on this site I've learned more workable tips, techiques and technology than in all the reading I did the prior 35 or so years.

Point being, that there are some dang smart people on this site. They know how to make moulds work and how to cast better than anyone ever before. Learn from here, utilize this site as a resource.

For instance, for years so many in this field pushed hardness as the best (and sometimes only) solution to leading. We now know that boolit fit is King, hardness is way way down the list.

Pre-heating a mould does wonders for your casting session. Often the very first boolit out of my moulds are keepers. Not before pre-heating though.

There are a number of marketing/product holes in this field. Lyman has gone the coporate America route and won't speak to anyone and won't upgrade their product line. If you can make hand moulds near their price point you could take away alot of their business. My new 429421 mould from them drops wheel weight boolits at .429, too small. They're getting known for that here.

Good luck.


Cat

BCall
08-27-2011, 08:24 PM
Consider making 4 cavity rifle molds. Iron 4 cavity molds for rifles are the one thing missing from today's market. Any chance you have the older H&G rifle designa as well?

kodiak1
08-27-2011, 10:43 PM
Send out updated production list of moulds.

Ken.

dromia
08-28-2011, 01:36 AM
Welcome to the forum Balisti-Cast. :drinks:

You will get plenty of good, experienced feed back here.

I agree with Catshooters take on this the Lyman part of the market is wide open since they lost the plot. I also concur with BCall's point on the need for 4 cavity iron rifle boolit moulds. Also make sure that your moulds will take Lee sized handles and not the narrower RCBS ones.

Good luck and I look forward to reading your stock and price lists. :D

Bret4207
08-28-2011, 07:56 AM
I've never used or had the desire to use Ballisti-cast products, but I would echo the opinions on making the moulds cast large enough boolits. I'd also consider offering moulds without the bevel base.

I wish you luck in your endeavor.

sagamore-one
08-28-2011, 05:28 PM
I personally would like to see a "re-cherry" and "hand lap" offering for existing H&G gang moulds. Occasionally I run into an H&G cut to drop at specified diameter in LINO only. A re-cherry to a slightly larger diameter by someone skilled would be GREAT.

Wayne Smith
08-28-2011, 06:14 PM
Welcome to the site. It is very good to find a manufacturer who is willing to listen to feedback, good and bad. Yes, the field is wide open. One of our mold makers left the field earlier this year as well. Lyman is no longer trustworthy, unfortunately. Sometimes good, somtimes not. For most of us price is a big issue. If you haven't been here before take a good look at the Group Buy section, you will quickly see the need. Several of the designs have gone around multiple times. Even something with as limited market as the Oldfeller Frankenstein 8x47R Steyr boolit sold enough for Bruce to catalogue it.

If you can take criticism, realize that consumers don't understand manufacturing and focus only on what we want, and are willing to educate us in the process you will be a valued member here.

hiram1
08-28-2011, 07:19 PM
true words.and the guys here will tell it like thay see it.Lyman use to be top dog but lost it to smart mouths and not doing the right thing.look at lee pricing look at rcbs.if you can stay in there your in.and when we call dont be better than us be one of us.that my friend will go a long way .that is all this arkey has to say [for now]

jsizemore
08-28-2011, 08:03 PM
Do you go by ballisti or cast? Just want to make sure I got it right when I call.

Most fussing will be that they ordered something and what they got wasn't right.

jameslovesjammie
08-28-2011, 11:37 PM
I see you relocated to the other side of the state. I never got a chance to see Ballisti-Cast here in Minot and I wish you all the best.

There have been some good business tips on here already. I hope you are a caster yourself and can appreciate what a fine company you purchased!

Best of luck and thanks for keeping it in ND!

James

ballisti-cast
08-29-2011, 10:16 AM
We have the ability to re-cherry any existing H & G Mould to a larger diameter to compensate for different types of lead as ballisti-cast owns all of the old H & G cherries. If you give us the mould, type of lead used, and diameter of the cast boolit or sizing die we can cherry it to exactly what you need. We also can make 4 cavity rifle boolit molds for any of the H & G rifle cherries we have (see our website) or can work with you on a custom design. Thank you for the ideas so far, all are appreciated and being considered.

LAH
08-29-2011, 10:35 AM
We have the ability to re-cherry any existing H & G Mould to a larger diameter to compensate for different types of lead as ballisti-cast owns all of the old H & G cherries. If you give us the mould, type of lead used, and diameter of the cast boolit or sizing die we can cherry it to exactly what you need. We also can make 4 cavity rifle boolit molds for any of the H & G rifle cherries we have (see our website) or can work with you on a custom design. Thank you for the ideas so far, all are appreciated and being considered.

There you go guys. Cheers all round.

Echo
08-29-2011, 12:09 PM
BC, here's a big Way To Go:

WAY TO GO!

MDF99
08-29-2011, 12:18 PM
I own a Mark VI sizer. I’m satisfied with the product but will list my experiences and ideas for improvement.

On my Mark VI sizer I have the bullet feeder mechanism removed because I mostly use gas checked bullets and feed them one at a time. On bullets that have a tight bullet base to gas check fit I will literally drop the handle so the ram slaps the gas check once to seat it before I push it on through the sizer. No problems there.

One area that could use improvement is the adjustment method for shortening or lengthening the bullet punches so the lube is injected directly into the grooves. For a small-time user like myself that has many different molds and makes frequent changes of sizing dies and punches; I’ve found it easier to have a separate punch that I leave set up for each mold that I use frequently. My method for setting the punch length is as follows: I insert a bullet into the die and push it down as far as the handle allows. Then with the bullet inside the die, I’ll push the die up out of the machine and stick a sharp pin through the injection hole(s) in the die into the bullet. Then I’ll push the bullet out of the die and look at the pin pricks in the lead to see where they are in relationship to the lube groove centers and use a dial caliper to measure that distance. Then I’ll remove the punch and shorten or lengthen it according to my measurement to center the bullets lube groove to the injection holes in the die. This process is messy and time consuming and often takes a few tries to get it right.

My idea for improvement is to set the Mark VI up with a micrometer adjustment similar to a Redding Competition seater die and eliminate the adjustable length punches entirely. Just have one punch for each caliber that is a simple solid steel cylinder. Mount the micrometer on top of the ram and redesign the handle to clear it and allow adjustment.

ballisti-cast
08-29-2011, 01:24 PM
MDF99, a micrometer on the Mark VI for adjusting the punch is a great idea and it would only take a few modifications to make one fit I believe! The process of finding the right setting on the micrometer for a particular boolit would be a one time job and then become common knowledge we could post on our website.

MtGun44
08-29-2011, 08:17 PM
If you are doing CNC, then consider this method for making molds. Make the cherry substantially
undersized, with the proper profile. Run the cherry in a small circle to make the chosen
diameter. This way you can easily make the same designs in several different diameters.

FIT is THE most important issue, so for example, in the .45 Colt cartridge there have been
two "standard" bore and throat diameters. In the early days (and many of those guns are
still out there) the standard was .454". Today, the guns have been moved closer to the
.45 ACP diameter, and now need .452" boolits. With conventional cherry methods, you will
need two cherries. With the undersized "profile cherry" you can make them whatever size
the customers need, no extra effort other than a tiny tweak to the CNC program to change
the circle diameter that the profile cherry is driven around.

Best wishes for success.

Bill

Skipper488
08-30-2011, 12:00 AM
Ballisti-cast I'm relatively new to casting and I'm not familiar with your product line. But the fact that you have come here asking prospective customers for their input and experiences is something that gains my respect. I will be looking at your products and as my need for equipment grows (in this hobby it always does) I will seriously be considering your products.

41 mag fan
08-30-2011, 10:01 AM
I've got to throw my .02 worth in on this.

Ballisti-cast heres what I seen when I went to your website you listed in your post.
I went on there and looked at your prices on melting posts and molds. Thats as far as I went.
I'm not looking to make a business but to enjoy a hobby I love.

Prices are way too high. Period

Offering a line of products that attract the hobbyist like myself and are within the price range of the majority of us is ideal.
I'm in this hobby for myself, not to become a business, as I think most on here are.

For example, with that in mind, when I look to buy a lube sizer or a melting pot I'm looking to buy one to fit my needs on the hobby aspect not the commercial aspect.
There are lube sizers and melting pots out there by your competitors that are within my budget and their quality and warranty and reputation are top notch.
Same way with molds, theres top notch mold makers on here that I do business with and will over and over.

If you ever develop a hobbyist line of products for people like me toot your horn loud if it was made here in the USA, by USA born citizens. This recession has caused alot of people like myself to rethink and are willing to pay a little more money to keep the jobs here in the U.S. and to give a U.S. citizen a job.

finishman2000
08-30-2011, 12:50 PM
I've got to throw my .02 worth in on this.

Ballisti-cast heres what I seen when I went to your website you listed in your post.
I went on there and looked at your prices on melting posts and molds. Thats as far as I went.
I'm not looking to make a business but to enjoy a hobby I love.

Prices are way too high. Period

Offering a line of products that attract the hobbyist like myself and are within the price range of the majority of us is ideal.
I'm in this hobby for myself, not to become a business, as I think most on here are.

For example, with that in mind, when I look to buy a lube sizer or a melting pot I'm looking to buy one to fit my needs on the hobby aspect not the commercial aspect.
There are lube sizers and melting pots out there by your competitors that are within my budget and their quality and warranty and reputation are top notch.
Same way with molds, theres top notch mold makers on here that I do business with and will over and over.

If you ever develop a hobbyist line of products for people like me toot your horn loud if it was made here in the USA, by USA born citizens. This recession has caused alot of people like myself to rethink and are willing to pay a little more money to keep the jobs here in the U.S. and to give a U.S. citizen a job.

Ballisti-cast is geared to the commercial and serious casters. they make small qty's, and have to pay good money to have the casting made for their bases.
the h&g molds were never cheap and never will be. they do however hold their value though like no other.

want cheap,,, stay with lee, they are geared for the small casters.

my sizer/luber from ballisti is a rapid hand machine, to the point that i sold off my star machines and haven't looked back or missed the stars. is the machine perfect? it is now with my changes to it. i hope that they use some of them on their new machines.

Beau Cassidy
08-31-2011, 04:04 PM
You need to work with the group buys here. I can imagine the group buys here have substantially cut into everybody's business.

ChuckS1
08-31-2011, 07:55 PM
Just my opinion, but have you thought about copyrighting and/or patenting the H&G bullet mold designs? You're losing a lot of business when the group buys are basically making unauthorized reproductions of a design that you own.

felix
08-31-2011, 09:54 PM
I would not even think about copywriting a mold design. It is just too simple to change the design and cause all kinds of litigation problems, costing the original vendor multiple bucks to defend. Besides, I don't know of any design we took from any vendor and kept that design for commercial "advertised" sale. Sales were to us board members, almost exclusively, and not in the numbers commercial interests would be interested. Wasn't it a Keith copy which sold over a 100 copies? What other designs have I missed that were over subscribed? ... felix

Perhaps B-C would be interested in an exceptionally accurate group-ordered design proven to be so by many purchasers with different kinds of guns. The drawing itself belongs to the one who drew the design, and it has been customary for the vendor to donate free of all charges a finished mold to the said person for payment of keeping up with the hassle from the board at large on the particulars. ... felix

ballisti-cast
09-01-2011, 12:55 AM
Group buys are something we could price very competitively as we can set up the CNC mill and let it make 15 or 20 identical molds (or at least the same design but varied for individual needs) over night. We also can very accurately calculate the weight and diameter of a cast boolit based off of a design if any help is needed in that area.

dromia
09-01-2011, 02:37 AM
Sounds good, just need agreement on a mould design and a honcho. :D

Wayne Smith
09-01-2011, 09:45 AM
Group buys are something we could price very competitively as we can set up the CNC mill and let it make 15 or 20 identical molds (or at least the same design but varied for individual needs) over night. We also can very accurately calculate the weight and diameter of a cast boolit based off of a design if any help is needed in that area.

Since you have that capability you might want to contact Bruce Brandt, BABore here, since he closed his business. Buying his list of molds would be a great start, getting them available again. Many of them started as group buys.

Catshooter
09-01-2011, 07:23 PM
Sounds good, just need agreement on a mould design and a honcho. :D

And a price . . . :)


Cat

ballisti-cast
09-01-2011, 08:51 PM
We could give a price in the $90 range for 10 molds and additional price breaks for larger quantities.

dromia
09-02-2011, 01:31 AM
Just need agreement on a mould design and a honcho now. ;)

taminsong
09-02-2011, 07:16 AM
BC,

I'm lived in the Philippines, so ordering a mold from Lyman plus the shipping charges is so great for me but I can't do anything about that, I have to swallow the added cost!

Now, when I found out that the mold 358429 that I ordered from Lyman is way undersized? What do you think I will feel? I cannot return the mold and pay the tremendous shipping charges the Post Office asked, and Lyman doesn't gave a positive response to my query! If I return it, then I have to pay another customs duties when the mold arrives!

Since that, I never looked at Lyman's website!

My idea is, if you can provide a quality warranty to your products worldwide, I'd be happy, everybody will be happy! As the people above says, GROUPBUYS is the way to go! And I've been poor many times just trying to get into Noe and Mihec GB! :-)

turbo1889
09-03-2011, 08:23 AM
I absolutely and completely agree with what others have been telling you about fit being king and thus molds that drop to diameter and drop large enough being your priority.

It is kind of a “Back to Basics” thing. You will find that most on this board are highly pleased with the various custom mold makers out there that allow them to order a specific diameter of boolit to fit their guns and when the mold comes it drops to that diameter or slightly over. Having the mold drop at +0.001 over stated size with WW alloy is a good target to try to hit.

That being said, I think I should make you aware of a slight drawback to using an undersize cherry run in a circle rotation orbit on a CNC milling machine to cut the mold cavities and provide a range of diameters in the same design for you customers that no one so far has mentioned in this thread although you may be independently aware of it.

Specifically, that cutting in this way doesn’t just change the major outside diameter of the mold cavity produced but also changes the gas check shank and bore riding diameter of the boolit cavity produced as well.

An excellent example of this is the Lyman 31#299 design which has been run in many group buys on this forum in three different sizes namely: 311299, 314299, and 316299. The boolit in question is a long, heavy, bore riding, gas check design for 30 caliber rifles such as 308, 30-06, 300-Mag, 303-Brit, 7.62x54R, etc., etc., and etc. . .

http://www.tmtpages.com/LinkSkyImages/forum_images/CalcBC/Lyman%20Mould%20311299.jpg

Now, as originally dimensioned in the 311299 size the primary diameter of the boolit is 0.311” or just slightly larger (for sake of having a solid numbers for this discussion lets say tolerances are -0.000” / +0.002”) and the diameter of the long bore riding nose is 0.299” (-0.000” / +0.002”) diameter to snugly fit a 30-cal. minor bore diameter and the gas check shank is 0.283” (-0.000” / +0.002”) diameter to be a nice snap tight fit in a standard 30-cal. gas check which has an inside diameter of about 0.284” or so before it is crimped on.

What happens to the gas check shank diameter and the bore riding nose diameter if an undersize cherry cutter with those exact same dimensional specifications is used to cut the larger 314299 and 316299 size molds ??? The diameter of the bore riding nose and gas check expand right along with the main diameter of the mold cavity.

Now the bore riding nose is only slightly problematic since guns with oversize major groove diameters in their barrels are also usually loose in their minor bore diameter as well or since these guns are often older military rifles (303-Brit, 7.62x54R, etc . . .) have deep throats and will accept the larger diameter nose section without trouble. Unfortunately, this isn’t all of them and there are some guns that do need an extra fat boolit diameter to fill their deep groove rifling in order to shoot with accuracy and minimal leading that have a minor bore diameter that really is a tight 0.300” diameter.

The gas check shank diameter changes is the bigger issue. Customers don’t like boolits with undersize gas check shanks that the gas check falls off of and they don’t like boolits with oversize gas check shanks that they can’t get the gas check onto. Both I and JIMinPHX posted our comments on this exact topic just yesterday on another thread and I just reposted on it again. Link here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=126324

As you can tell from my comments on that thread when dealing with “fat 30-cal” molds I prefer a tapered gas check that the end of just barely fits into the gas check and then as the gas check is seated on sizing press it actually expands the diameter of the gas check like a wedge since I hate it when I have a fat boolit to fit my bore that has a gas check on its base that isn’t quite as fat as the boolit and thus doesn’t do a whole lot of good in my mind so I tend to error on the side of having a bigger shank diameter that might make getting the gas check onto the shank a pain rather then going the other direction.

Making the gas check shank diameter to be correct for the largest diameter that is intended to be cut with that particular cherry and doing a second cut with a reamer to bring the gas check shanks up to full diameter for the smaller sizes as JIMinPHX suggests is an excellent solution provided you are willing to do the extra step involved.

Theoretically, one could set up for a three tool cut on every cavity with one cutting tool to cut the main body and crimp and lube grooves of the boolit cavity, a second cutter to cut the nose forward of the front driving band, and a third cutter (simple reamer) to form the gas check shank allowing all three diameters to be controlled independently. Going even further if the lube grooves on the body cherry were flat bottomed, deep enough, and wide enough you could make that cherry with a whole length of evenly spaced driving bands and lube grooves and make a whole slew of different body lengths in both plain base and gas check boolits designs from that one cherry by short cutting with the cherry at either the bottom of any of the driving bands to form a plain base boolit or short cutting in any of the lube grooves and then reaming out the lube groove to form a gas check shank. Then you could make the nose cherry nice and short just to form the nose profile and then plunge cut deeper to make longer bore riding noses with the same nose profile. Long story short, a whole bunch of different boolit configurations from the same three cutting tools using CNC to control it all the critical diameters and make different lengths (and thus weights) of boolits with different length bodies and noses but all having the same nose tip shape and same driving bands and crimp groove spacing.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6204/6108395141_b87b3a9d9f_z.jpg

Well, that is my $0.02, take it for what it is worth.

frank505
09-03-2011, 04:28 PM
Welcome and thank you for rescueing Ballisti Cast from the idiot. Please return the Elmer Keith molds to the original designs, not what is on the list today. Never make an aluminum mold either. The last molds I bought from BC was when Boyd Nelson was there. At least he knew something.
I hope I can be a satisfied customer again soon.

jameslovesjammie
09-03-2011, 04:38 PM
We could give a price in the $90 range for 10 molds and additional price breaks for larger quantities.

Could you update a list of prices? Curious of the cost of a 1, 2, 4 cavity moulds.

I am interested in a H&G 331 in a flat base at .359 if the price was right. (photo from our own TexasFlyBoy's wonderful collection) Alot of other guys doing group buys have a hard time doing a round nose design. This may be a niche for you.

http://hgmould.gunloads.com/molds/115.jpg

tommygirlMT
09-03-2011, 08:09 PM
Hey !!! --- Ballisti-Cast-y --- since we be on the subject of modifications to your machines to make them better

Not a modification for all --- but a modification that would fill my needs --- how much extra "meat" is around the sizing die socket on the Mark-VI sizer ???? --- also throwing the question to MDF99 as well since he has one (great idea by the way on micrometer). Is the base of the sizer iron --- steel - aluminum

Reason I ask --- I have boolit lubing and sizing needs that are above and beyond what any conventional lube size die can handle --- Star Lyman/RCBS or Saco --- diameters up to 8-bore size (0.835) and some really long boolits that a normal length sizing die cant lube all the grooves (mainly 600 nitro boolits)

Is there enough extra "meat" in the base block of the Mark-VI sizer to bore it out to take a 1" outer diameter sizing die? --- How thick is the base block and thus how long could such an oversize die be to get lube in all the grooves of long boolits?

Basically Im getin real sick of pan lubing and then using an oversize Lee type sizing die and would like to be able to lube size the big ones --- so I am thinking big oversize sizing die that is like 1" outer diameter and 2" long or so --- I already looked at the Magma Star sizer and it don't have enough extra "meat" around the sizer die socket to do this with and its linkage is too flimbsy to handle big oversize boolit sizing --- your Mark-VI looks a lot stronger and looks like it has more meat around the sizer die socket so it could be canidate for me buying and then having it modified to take a big oversize sizing die

Also --- your web site no say --- it use standard 1x4 lube sticks or commercial size 2x6 lube sticks ?????????

tonyjones
09-04-2011, 11:31 AM
ballisti-cast,

Have you considered offering a PID controller for your melting machines?

Thanks and regards,

Tony

williamwaco
09-04-2011, 11:43 AM
I have no need for your machines but I absolutely love your four cavity molds.

As to comments about lower your prices.

I Love your molds because they ARE expensive and HIGH Quality.
Lower the prices? NOT!

No price level can make up for poor quality.
Good customer service cannot make up for poor quality control.

When I want an inexpensive low quality mold, I have several brands to choose from.

MDF99
09-04-2011, 06:56 PM
After thinking about what design I would most like to have in a new B-C mold, it would be a "proven" (flies well at practical hunting ranges and beyond) Keith design at 300 grains or heavier in 45cal. Perhaps a copy of the NEI #320. I'd be in on a group buy for this mold.

taminsong
09-05-2011, 11:57 PM
This is nice.

I'm just curious, Tommygirl, any pics for your 0.835 bullet? I never seen one!

MDF99
09-06-2011, 12:52 PM
"also throwing the question to MDF99, Is the base of the sizer iron --- steel - aluminum?"

The base is an aluminum casting and there probably is enough material for a larger die but I can't say for certain if it would work out. Here's an old pic of my messy sizing setup so you can see the base:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=140818&postcount=14

Ken 45LC
09-08-2011, 02:07 PM
BC, Good luck in your new venture.

I would like to know if you plan on modifying the mark VI like finishman 2000 did? I've been trying to save up for one, instead of buying a star. I'd prefer to pay for the machine already made the way i'd like instead of having to do all the mods afterwards.

I too would like to see a price drop, but not at the expense of lesser quality. I'm a firm believer in paying for a quality item once.

Good luck,

Ken

ballisti-cast
09-12-2011, 01:06 AM
We have already integrated similar changes to the ones finishman 2000 came up with on our Mark VI. You would have a complete machine with the capabilities of the one shown on YouTube out of the box.

ballisti-cast
09-12-2011, 01:12 AM
"Not a modification for all --- but a modification that would fill my needs --- how much extra "meat" is around the sizing die socket on the Mark-VI sizer ???? --- also throwing the question to MDF99 as well since he has one (great idea by the way on micrometer). Is the base of the sizer iron --- steel - aluminum

Is there enough extra "meat" in the base block of the Mark-VI sizer to bore it out to take a 1" outer diameter sizing die? --- How thick is the base block and thus how long could such an oversize die be to get lube in all the grooves of long boolits?"

The base is big enough to bore out to take a 1" outer diameter die. It would require some modifications but is very possible. It is something you could accomplish by yourself or we could customize it for you.

finishman2000
09-12-2011, 06:15 PM
the other "improvement" that i wish for would be that the temp control was on the other side. i often hit the knob with my rapid fire style lol

ballisti-cast
09-18-2011, 03:22 PM
What is an acceptable variation in lead temperature when casting? Are 10 or 20 degree swings in temperature okay or is it necessary to keep the lead with in a few degrees of a desired temperature?

Catshooter
09-18-2011, 04:09 PM
From my experience a 50 degree swing is still quite workable. I like to keep my lead about 80 to 100 hotter than is really needed just so temp swing doesn't stop my casting.

I think you'll find there's a good consensious here that hotter is better than cooler.

Thank you ever so much for asking!!! I wish more of corporate America would wake up and do the same.


Cat

timkelley
09-19-2011, 11:44 AM
Ballisti-Cast, I just woke up and noticed this thread. Glad you are here and good luck with your endeavor.[smilie=s:

SSGOldfart
09-19-2011, 02:34 PM
welcome geuess I'm the new guy on the block, so if you need to make room or something I'm looking at a MarkII[smilie=f::groner:

BachelorJack
10-06-2011, 11:34 PM
Make an ingot mold optimized for USPS Flat rate shipping boxes.

One mold, casts a whole layer in a sheet with bars capable of being broken apart by hand. Small bars so the end user can get them in any pot.

A lot of guy sell lead. A lot more buy it. And USPS flat rate is how it is all shipped.

eck0313
10-09-2011, 11:53 AM
Welcome back, Ballisti-Cast! I have one of your H&G 68 moulds for my casting machine, and it was money well-spent. I've won several 50 yd slow fire events in Bullseye matches with the bullets out of that would. They are every bit as good as the H&G moulds I have, for which people want to pay a premium.

ballisti-cast
10-19-2011, 11:38 AM
eck0313 I'm glad to here of your success with the mold. We actually bought the H & G mold line from Mr. Gibbs, which came with all of his cutters and mold designs. Although our molds now have Ballisti-Cast stamped on them now, they are identical to a H & G mold in every aspect. We probably need to do a better job of advertising that as I'm sure a lot of people have no idea where you can get a new H & G mold anymore.

Beau Cassidy
10-23-2011, 09:32 AM
eck0313 I'm glad to here of your success with the mold. We actually bought the H & G mold line from Mr. Gibbs, which came with all of his cutters and mold designs. Although our molds now have Ballisti-Cast stamped on them now, they are identical to a H & G mold in every aspect. We probably need to do a better job of advertising that as I'm sure a lot of people have no idea where you can get a new H & G mold anymore.

And your molds are probably much cheaper than those going on E-Bay, too.

rollo tommasi
11-06-2011, 04:17 PM
good morning to everyone...i need your help..
anyone know the ballisticast mark IV mini caster?how it work?has photos or videos in action?
actually the mold from ballisticast are fine?
thx for help

LAH
11-06-2011, 05:43 PM
good morning to everyone...i need your help..
anyone know the ballisticast mark IV mini caster?how it work?has photos or videos in action?
actually the mold from ballisticast are fine?
thx for help

I've never used a Mark IV but do have a Mark II. If the IV is anything like the II it will do the job. I know not of any videos with the IV.

rollo tommasi
11-06-2011, 07:09 PM
in fact i didn't find instruction or something on the web...
and from the magma are many..
the master caster is too slow operating, my policlips casting machine work great, but i want automatize one machine, and the hardware from ballisticast is more opened from upgrading..

KohlerK91
11-06-2011, 07:59 PM
And your molds are probably much cheaper than those going on E-Bay, too.

Thats true the prices are often extremely inflated. Nice 4 cavity moulds can easily go over $200 bucks. And thats for a used mould. Why buy used when you can buy a NEW one for similar price?

Love Life
11-06-2011, 09:52 PM
eck0313 I'm glad to here of your success with the mold. We actually bought the H & G mold line from Mr. Gibbs, which came with all of his cutters and mold designs. Although our molds now have Ballisti-Cast stamped on them now, they are identical to a H & G mold in every aspect. We probably need to do a better job of advertising that as I'm sure a lot of people have no idea where you can get a new H & G mold anymore.

Yeah but at $200 for a 4 cavity the prices are a bit steep. A custom maker will make you a mould that drops what you want with what alloy you want for significantly less. I am not trying to slam ballisti-cast, but they don't have a very competitive price point.

ballisti-cast
11-09-2011, 01:15 AM
I added some videos of our machines working to the ballisti-cast website. There are two clips of the Mark IV in action. It operates almost identical to the Mark II except it is not automated. I'm in the process of creating a new website for Ballisti-Cast which will be much more user friendly and have updated information on the machines as well as videos that show all of the machines features.

Our molds are priced at a higher price then some because they are made of a hard cast iron, have hardened alignment pins, and offset venting grooves. You won't find these features on cheaper molds. We also customize each mold we make for the alloy and sizing die being used.

finishman2000
11-10-2011, 03:45 PM
Yeah but at $200 for a 4 cavity the prices are a bit steep. A custom maker will make you a mould that drops what you want with what alloy you want for significantly less. I am not trying to slam ballisti-cast, but they don't have a very competitive price point.

maybe they aren't for you. i think spending $200 on a mold, use it for 30 years or so and then sell it for more than you paid it is a pretty good deal. try that with a lee mold.
best comparision, rolex watch, hold it for 20 years, use it, take care of it and sell for a couple grand more than you paid. i've done that as well.

H&G molds are the best, were the best and more than likey always be the best. as long as they don't screw with the quaility of the product there will always guys like me who will pay more for them.
pay for a custom mold and try to sell it for what it costs you...maybe a break even if you're lucky.

Love Life
11-10-2011, 03:53 PM
maybe they aren't for you. i think spending $200 on a mold, use it for 30 years or so and then sell it for more than you paid it is a pretty good deal. try that with a lee mold.
best comparision, rolex watch, hold it for 20 years, use it, take care of it and sell for a couple grand more than you paid. i've done that as well.

H&G molds are the best, were the best and more than likey always be the best. as long as they don't screw with the quaility of the product there will always guys like me who will pay more for them.
pay for a custom mold and try to sell it for what it costs you...maybe a break even if you're lucky.

I wasn't talking about lee. I was talking about the many custom makers on this board. Will the new ballisti-cast moulds hold or increase in value like the original H&G moulds? Well that has yet to be determined.

The custom mould I have is spot on, incredible quality, casts what I want with my alloy, and cost half as much. Like I said I am not here to slam ballisti-cast. They started a thread to see how they could both service and remain competitive to the casting community, and price point is huge.

So please do us all a favor and un-bunch your panties.

finishman2000
11-11-2011, 10:58 AM
"do us a favor"?
why don't step back and behave yourself.
like i said i guess they aren't for you. if you are happy with someone else custom molds...stick with them and be happy mister "love life"

ballisti-cast
11-12-2011, 01:03 AM
What price do you want to see our molds at? Would $150 for a 4 cavity cause less sticker shock? We are looking into trying to cut our production costs by becoming more efficient where ever possible. However, having a premium quality mold is of utmost importance to us and there is only so much that can be done to cut prices without sacrificing quality.

dromia
11-12-2011, 02:13 AM
Lets ease off a bit here no need to start getting personal.

Every one is entitled to an opininion although here on Cast Boolits we think it courteous to just walk away if you think somethings price doesn't suit you.

All of us will have different views on the value of things and providers have to sell at a price point that people will find value in.

That is the spirit of free enterprise and ultimately the market place decides the value or otherwise in a product.

ChuckS1
11-12-2011, 11:34 AM
I'm a firm believer in "you get what you pay for". I have a couple of original H&G molds, a Ballisti-Cast 668, a host of Ideal/Lyman molds, a few RCBS molds, as well as a couple from Mihec and one from NOE. So far, other than my aluminum Mihec 68 clone that came to me warped and a couple of Lyman molds that were undersized, I've had pretty good results with them all. But, that being said, I have never had to tinker with the H&G and Ballisti-Cast molds to get them to cast well. Or for that matter, my NOE mold, which has been great as well.

But, again, you get what you pay for. I would rather spend once and pay more, then have to spend time tinkering with a mold to get it to work right. Personally, I think it's worth the extra cost to get the size and weight I want, using my alloy, for something that will last longer than I will. Plus, I know my money's staying here in the USA supporting American jobs.

And as others have said, if someone doesn't want to pay the asking price, there are plenty of other options.

GLL
11-12-2011, 04:14 PM
I own eight of the Ballisti-Cast 4-cavity molds along with many other custom molds from the various quality makers. Seven of those from B-C are the best casting molds I own ! Although my Ballisti-Cast molds come from the previous owners it looks like the current owner is trying his best to not only maintain quality but is asking for suggestions to improve !

The spru plate on the Ballisti-Cast 4-cavity molds is the VERY best there is... period!

I would suggest that the mold catalog be improved !!!! The drawings are terrible and have been for many years !!!!

Jerry

Ballisti-Cast 4-cavity
http://www.fototime.com/42631AF0F1ECBA8/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/143A68122019505/standard.jpg

LAH
11-12-2011, 09:20 PM
I have 12 BC moulds & zero complaints.

Love Life
11-12-2011, 09:58 PM
First off I want to apologize to Finishman2000 for my childish and ******* comment. It was uncalled for.

Second off I want to apologize to Ballisti-Cast for bringing that garbage into their thread.

To answer post #61 by Ballisti-Cast:
Yes $150 for a 4 cavity mould would be much better. I understand that your company is the top of the line for boolit moulds, but it is hard for someone to even try one of your moulds at the current price points, and impossible at H&G price points.

finishman2000
11-13-2011, 10:18 PM
No hard feeling. This site is truely more friendly than say ar15.com. here opinions are welcomed and that is how it should be.
nothing starts trouble like talking about money/cost of things. one mans deal breaker is anothers value. i don't like aluminum molds at all, anybodies. i will always pay more for a premium product that i expect to last longer than me. customer service also is important and i will pay a little more to the company that gives it.
anyway, you show that you're a "good guy" who just gets caught up in the moment, it happens to all of us at times. take care.

ddixie884
12-07-2011, 10:51 PM
I am glad BC is back under new management. A fresh start by someone with a vision might keep us from losing the H&G tradition of quality. Good Luck in your endeavors...............

youngmman
05-07-2014, 04:30 PM
I have several H&G molds and was very happy to pay up for the quality. I just ordered and paid for a Ballisti-Cast and feel the same way................Keep the price as high as needed to produce at a rate that won't result in lower quality.