Lyman 4500 issue.

[wallenba]

Today I was setting up to lube some .452 boolits. The grooves were not filling out. thinking the lube was still a little stiff I cranked on it more. Nothing happened. It dawned on me it could be low on lube. It was empty in fact. I began unscrewing the plunger to add another stick. After a while I realised it was not coming up. I kept trying, and now it won't turn in either direction. What kind of pickle am I in? and how can I dissassemble it if it won't come up the tube?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

you have probably bottomed the pressure nut against the bottom of the reservoir or against the bottom of the threads of the pressure screw.
IF So,
this was covered recently, I think cold...as in putting the whole lubesizer into the freezer to stiffen the lube is one good solution. That will grab onto the pressure nut while you are turning the pressure screw, whereas, now the pressure nut is spinning.

Once you have this thing cold, I would turn the pressure screw with the lubesizer NOT mounted on the bench, the screw will start turning out the bottom if the cold lube is grabbing the pressure nut. This way you are not fighting the friction of the pressure nut trying to slide upward and out of the reservior. then once the pressure screw is about half way out the bottom, you can push on the bottom of the pressure screw to push the pressure nut out...and if that is real difficult, you may need to add some heat with a heat gun or heater of some sort.

I hope that helps,
Jon

[wallenba]

I just made some progress I think. I took it off the bench and tried unscrewing it again. It broke free and started turning, but now the pressure screw is coming out the bottom. Can I hammer that back in to raise the pressure nut? Or will I screw something else up?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

It should just push out, you shouldn't wreck anything if you go at it gently.
You can gently push or lightly tap it with a small hammer,
if pushing it just doesn't work ,,,ie: it won't move, then,
Heat is your friend...apply some heat before you tap with hammer.
Jon

[wallenba]

Ok, I'll give it a try. I was concerned that the "O" rings might hang up and get 'chewed'. If so, a minor problem at worst.

[wallenba]

Ok, It's out. One of the rings has a little whisker on it, otherwise looks ok. I learned a good one today about it's travel limits.
I just got real concerned when it stopped turning. I really had to crank it hard to get it moving again. Thought I was going to break it.
Thanks Jon.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

O-rings should be fine, unless you have created some burrs by jamming a screw driver down in the reservior to try and wedge the pressure nut, to keep it from spinning while turning the pressure screw...DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS, as that was my first attempt (as a newbie to lubesizers...not too long ago) to solve the same problem you are experiencing now.

BUT, O-rings are cheap and so was the emery cloth I used to de-burr the inside of the reservior.
Jon

[dragonrider]

Yes you should be able to tap it back in, and then bolt back on the to bench, the screw needs a surface to push against in order to lift the pressure nut.

[wallenba]

O-rings should be fine, unless you have created some burrs by jamming a screw driver down in the reservior to try and wedge the pressure nut, to keep it from spinning while turning the pressure screw...DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW THIS, as that was my first attempt (as a newbie to lubesizers...not too long ago) to solve the same problem you are experiencing now.

BUT, O-rings are cheap and so was the emery cloth I used to de-burr the inside of the reservior.
Jon

I had assumed the pressure nut and rings had slipped below the cylinder and into the reservoir bottom cavity. Now that it's out I see that can't happen.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I glad you were successfull.
Jon

[wallenba]

Yes you should be able to tap it back in, and then bolt back on the to bench, the screw needs a surface to push against in order to lift the pressure nut.

Yep, it's good to go now. This little lesson took some of the mystery out of it for me. Actually it's simpler than I thought it was.

[oneokie]

Lyman now includes a bushing/spacer with their repair kits that fits over the pressure screw to limit the downward travel of the piston.

One can fabricate their own with a piece of 1/2? plastic pipe (pvc or cpvc) to serve the same function. You do not have to empty the luber to install. Just remove the pressure piston as if you were going to add a new stick of lube, place the spacer over the screw and reinstall the piston.

[DukeInFlorida]

The hollow sticks of lube don't completely fill the 4500 cavity. So, you have to replace the sticks more often, and get those embarrassing "burps" from the air pockets when you add a new stick.

I much prefer to melt the lube, and pour it directly into the 4500 cavity, avoiding air pockets, and greatly increasing how much lube is in there. I don't have to refill as often. Do that the night before, allowing the lube to set back up before re-installing the pressure plate.

My word of warning. If you are using a stiff lube, please make sure you add some heat to soften it up. It's easy to break the threaded screw if you crank on it too much. Been there, done that, etc.