Rossi 92 magazine, Carrier help.

[wvmedic]

What keeps the ammo in the magazine tube when the carrier is at the top of its stroke?

My Rossi is difficult to load in that when I load a round and try to load the next round often the load gate will not open. It seems that a round is behind it on the carrier and not in the magazine tube. I also started having jams yesterday, it started with my .357 158 gr. Federal JSP. The jam was so bad with it I had to leave the range and take the riffle apart once I got home, to clear that jam.

It is for now cycling the .357's but will jam every time if I load more than one .38 spcl. in the magazine at a time. What is happening with the .38's is one the round is slipping past the stop on the loading gate as well as the stop on the carrier. This allows the round to slip under the bolt beyond the ejector and jam.

When this happens the next round comes out and is now under the other round compounding the jam.

The first time this happened it was with the .357 ammo, it is now only doing it with the.38's and they are Remington FMJ RN.

Has anyone els had this problem, and is there a fix?

Jeff

[scrapcan]

it has been a while since i had one of the Rossi Puma (17 years) carbines so this may be all wrong. Isn't there a cartridge stop that is activated by the carrier? It may be inside the receiver just after the tube. You may need to strip the gun and have a look. You may have a broken part or one that is really dirty and just stuck.

I am sure another more knowledgeable soul will be along soon.

[looseprojectile]

is pressed outward when the bolt is thrust foreward allowing a cartridge to be fed to the carrier under the bolt. I never did understand how a shorter cartridge could work but it does normally. Majic?
Open the bolt so that the carrier is still down and push the follower foreward with a pencil and see if the little flicker at the foreward end of the left cartridge guide springs out fairly smartly.
Cartridge length is rather important.
Could be that the stop needs a little more engagement. Stiffer spring? cleaning?
It is easy for some crud to get under the stop or in the works to confound us.
I may not have this right but I think the guide is removable without taking the bolt out.
Good luck.

Life is good

[wvmedic]

Looseprojectile, no it dose not. So it seems as there is a problem with the cartridge stop spring.
I have only put 100 rounds down range, I guess it could have been weak from the factory though. I guess a tear down is in order for inspection.

Any idea where to get the spring?

Jeff

[gew98]

Dang ... this sounds almost exactly like the dreaded marlin jam .

[wvmedic]

gew98, don't know about the marlin jam. I do hope to get this Rossi working smooth though, I love this riffle. I do hate that this being a new firearm that I am having this issue, $500.00 and having to fix it is sad to me. But I am willing to do it because I like it so well. I am not a gun smith though, so I might need a few pointers.

Jeff

[looseprojectile]

Would be unusual if it is broken. Not much tension on it.
I don't think I have ever seen one broken.
May have been assembled upside down. Has a little curve.

Take out the two upper screws in the left side of the receiver and wiggle the cartridge guide out and take a look.

92 Winchester parts fit, spring is the same in all calibers.
I hope this helps you.

Life is good

[Jeff H]

........May have been assembled upside down. Has a little curve.......

It would not be hard to imagine having come to the factory like that either. I bought mine not so long ago and it was a mess. I know folks say they're a little rough but shootable without work, but mine REQUIRED considerable work to get it to do anything right.

I did reassemble mine once and managed to pinch the spring flat and the stop didn't work right. After I took it back apart to correct that, I put a nice dollop of a mystery grease that I have that doesn't run when hot or get stiff when cold. That served as my "assembly grease" to hold it in place as I reassembled it.

I had taken it apart originally to clean up burrs on the pivot end of the stop that were causing it not to fully engage the last cartridge in the tube. Debris could easily cause this too.

I have also had a few cases with rims that were smaller than others slip past. The carrier can fool you into thinking it's an intermiitent problem buy holding a cartridge in the tube. Making some dummies and observing through the top pf the action as you cycle them through helps a lot.

[looseprojectile]

I am wrong.
Ya gotta take out the bolt to get the left cartridge guide out. Just took mine apart.
The right cartridge guide falls out without removing the bolt.
When putting it back together it works well to use an empty case to hold the ejector, ejector spring and collar in place in the bolt when you put the lever pin back in.
Sorry I steered you wrong.

Life is good

[wvmedic]

Jeff H, thanks.

Looseprojectile, no problem. It will be Monday at least before I can take it down again. I will check the spring for any visible damage, it should be as it came from the factory. I didn't take it out when I took it apart, it was still on the screw in it's grove. I figured it was secure there and if I left it there I wouldn't lose it. I didn't realize at the time that was where my problem was, I have gained some knowledge from tearing it down and putting it back together though.

Jeff

[garym1a2]

i have the same problem. I have not tried to solve it yet.

[scrapcan]

All right I actually remembered something. Once you get it running you will pleased, I had to do this to the one I have so many moons ago. Sorry to see nothing has changed.

[Swede44mag]

Does it jamb with .357 loads or with .38spc if so it may not be a mix and match gun.
I had a .357mag Browning it wouldn't shoot .38spc unless I loaded them the same length as the .357mag.

I don't know if this info will help but if not good luck.

[wvmedic]

manleyjt, I'm not sure what you are saying. Did you have a problem with the cartridge stop spring? If so what was the fix?

Swede44mag, it first did it with .357. I did cycle some .357 and it did ok, it will not cycle .38's now at all. Before it was cycling the .38's slick as butter, much better that the .357's.

I guess I need to apologize, I probably should have posted this in the gunsmith section.
Mods please move if need be, again I am sorry. I wasn't thinking about the gunsmith section, I was thinking lever action with a problem.

Jeff

[357shooter]

The gate needs to be adjusted further forward. The back of it is what prevents the problem you are having. Once you do that it will always be recessed, never sitting flush. I think it's the last screw on right side.

That should fix you right up.

[wvmedic]

357shooter, the gate is now recessed a bit I adjusted it last night. I still have a problem with the cartridge stop though, I was going to check it tonight but ran a late call at work which put me home late. If the day isn't to busy tomorrow I might be able to tear into it.

Jeff

[357shooter]

Try shortening the magazine spring. With it unsprung and hanging out of the front of the magazine, measure approx 3X357 cartridge lengths and trim it there. With less pressure the stop should work.

If you've removed the cartridge stop, the spring has to go back in correctly for it to work. The diagram in the manual shows it pretty well. You probably knew that, but I figured it out the hard way. :bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2:

[wvmedic]

Looseprojectile, thanks to you the problem is fixed.

I do not know what caused the original problem, I hope I fixed it as well.

What I do know is that when I took the riffle apart the cartridge stop came out when I loosened the screw. The screw stayed in the receiver and the cartridge stop spring stayed on the screw inside of the receiver. So when I reassembled the riffle, I just put the cartridge in it's grove on top of the spring and tightened the screw.

Now the problem with that is, the cartridge stop has a small spot on the back where the spring tip fits. Since I did not reassemble it correctly there was no spring tension to move the stop so it could stop the next cartridge from double feeding.

I hope my experience with this helps someone else from making the same mistake.

Jeff

[cajun shooter]

For all you nice 92 owners. There is a man by the name of Steve Young AKA Nate Kiowa Jones who is the 92 Guru for SASS shooters. Even if you don't shoot in the sport, Steve sells a DVD that gives you all the info in a step by step video which is much better than a written guide. If you choose to slick up your 92 then that is also included. I had Steve do one for me and I did my next one. They are so slick and easy to operate. You can use one finger to lever the rifle as he shows on his web site. The DVD is $20 and worth every penny if you are a 92 shooter.

[Jeff H]

For all you nice 92 owners. There is a man by the name of Steve Young AKA Nate Kiowa Jones who is the 92 Guru for SASS shooters........

I'm glad someone mentioned Steve and his video, but even more glad it was not the first and only suggestion.

Thanks, Cajun Shooter.

[357shooter]

I'm glad someone mentioned Steve and his video, but even more glad it was not the first and only suggestion.

Thanks, Cajun Shooter.I did almost all his action job refinements on my 20inch 357 M92 and they work. It's smooth as butter.

[wvmedic]

Thanks, Cajun Shooter.

I plan on getting the kit, need the metal follower and ejector spring. I have never stoned a gun part in my life, I want to get the DVD so I can see an example of how it is done.

I did order a bolt peep sight from Steve about a week ago, can not wait till it getts here.

Jeff